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KaminKevCrew

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About KaminKevCrew

  • Title
    Audio Fan
  • Birthday 1996-01-11

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 3770k
  • Motherboard
    Asus P8 Z77-V Deluxe
  • RAM
    16GB (2x8GB) Gskill 2133mhz RAM
  • GPU
    GTX980
  • Case
    HP Blackbird 002
  • Storage
    1TB Samsung 840 EVO, 3TB Seagate HDD, 1 TB Western Digital Black
  • PSU
    1050W Seasonic X series 80-plus gold
  • Display(s)
    Dell 2408WFP, and one more random Dell
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i
  • Keyboard
    Daskeyboard 4 w/PBT keycaps
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Sensei
  • Sound
    Asus Xonar Essence STX with Carver Speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1 Pro

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Soon to be California
  • Interests
    Computers, Cars, Tech in general, Audio
  • Biography
    I'm just some guy on the internet.
  • Occupation
    I wish

Recent Profile Visitors

2,335 profile views
  1. Multicopter Megathread

    The main reason that you wouldn't want to use a brushed motor underwater is that a brushed motor has physical, moving electrical connections which can't be waterproofed. As such, you're going to lose some power due to the motor. Aside from that, yes, you do lose power because it's through brushes, etc. (honestly, I don't even know when the question was initially asked, so I hope that I'm adding something here...
  2. Multicopter Megathread

    Yeah. The whole main body of the frame is one piece of molded UD carbon. It's a really cool frame, and I might grab another one, I just won't use it around concrete and basketball hoops. I might also repair it, as that's definitely possible since I know a few people that know how to work with carbon. Until today, I've never heard of it. It's kind of cool, but I highly doubt it's a full range radio, and it won't be able to use SBUS, I think. I'm pretty sure that only D16 type (and newer) receivers can do SBUS. If that's the case, you'll definitely have latency that's at least somewhat noticeable.
  3. Multicopter Megathread

    Noooo!!! I broke an arm on my Kore V2 yesterday. That means I'm out a $140 frame... Oh well. I'm going to buy another one eventually, but it's going to a be frame reserved for racing over grass. I think the frame was too stiff to be able to take in impact into a basketball hoop. There was absolutely zero flex in that frame, which is great for speed and feel and agility, but terrible for impact absorption. Lesson learned! Buy frames with removable arms! On a side note, my Tramp HV is great!
  4. Multicopter Megathread

    It makes the tips expensive to replace sure. But, with proper care, a tip can last the lifetime of the heating element, in which case it's actually a pro -you don't have to go to the trouble of replacing it separately. Also, if you have multiple tips, having a separate heating element also means fewer hours on each individual heating element which is a plus.
  5. Best headphones

    Unfortunately I am a pedant by trade so there's not much I can do about it. Perhaps you could spend less time being bothered by others correcting you on the internet?
  6. Best headphones

    That is patently false. If you have a $300 headset, it will very likely outperform a $5 set of headphones.
  7. transmitter and receiver

    What RC stuff are you using where the receiver has it's own battery included? Even top of the line RC stuff doesn't usually have a battery for the receiver. You're expected to provide your own...
  8. Multicopter Megathread

    What kind of batteries are you using it with? How many cells? I haven't really used mine on battery yet, but it definitely maintains heat on a power supply. I also use a different soldering iron on other projects, which only connects to batteries. It doesn't have any temperature adjustment, but it gets REALLY hot on 4s.
  9. Multicopter Megathread

    I have one and I love it. It actually heats up joints as fast as, if not faster than, my hakko 888-D. I love it for all sorts of stuff. What temp are you running yours at?
  10. Multicopter Megathread

    Isn't TBS coming out with a unify micro that has direct soldering? I think it's still ufl, but it has all of the features of the originals, just at a smaller size, as far as I know.
  11. Multicopter Megathread

    I have the ATX03, and it's pretty good. For me, I wouldn't get smart audio for myself - I am starting to fly with other people, and having smart audio setup will just make it a lot easier to move around bands and channels without having to fuss with stupid button presses. It just makes life more convenient. If you stay in close, yeah, the VTX03 won't have any very noticeable disadvantage, but if you were to try to go further out, the fact that the unify can output 4x the power will mean that you will literally (in a perfect world, because of the inverse square law) get double the range for the same video quality. Did you mean 500mW+ or did you actually mean 5W+? 5 watts is a HUGE amount of power. Anything trying to broadcast at that power level would likely be drawing 10 to 15 amps from the battery. You'd need something like a freefly cinema system to support that amount of power draw for any meaningful amount of time, including dealing with the weight of a VTx that size... If you did just mean 500mW, then I would suggest going for the RDQ Mach1/2 (get the mmcx connector version. That connector is empirically better in every way, except that it's ever so slightly larger.), the ImmersionRC tramp (which I have, and it's a really cool little device. It's cool that you can get a wand for it too.), the Unify Pro (regular, or HV) even though it's really expensive. Then there's also the stealth VTx (700mW) from FuriousFPV, the guys that make the trued module for fatshark goggles. And I'm sure there are several more out there, those are the ones I know of off hand.
  12. Multicopter Megathread

    Here's my flying from last night. Edit: Also, Youtube's compression is crap. I may upload another, higher res version after class. Sorry!
  13. Multicopter Megathread

    Sorry! Yeah, I would definitely consider selling the dominators. I just realized the other day that they're actually the V3s though - the seller I bought them from listed them incorrectly (Unless the v2 also has a 16:9 screen?) I definitely feel you on that one. I just built a Kore V2 frame, and that thing is CRAMPED. I literally killed two Fcs trying to get everything inside... (It didn't help that my soldering iron tip is in no way small enough for a build that tight...) I absolutely feel it. What does it for me is that I know that by spending $100 on a frame, I have to pay $5 in shipping (assuming they actually charge for that - I've never broken an arm...) from Armattan (in this example) to get replacement arms, forever. That's a great deal, as far as I'm concerned. I think the Kalman filter only applies to the gyros onboard. I don't think it's capable of taking the baro into account (and I'm not sure what benefit that would have - a baro on measures the air pressure...) But that's as far as I'm aware, and I could well be wrong. I almost straight up landed on the top of a building yesterday, LOL video will be coming shortly of my flights last night. It was a good time.
  14. Multicopter Megathread

    For me, it's because of the reasons that I stated (the whole thing about having more room in the frame, because the arms are the bottom plate, rather than being mounted on top of it.) Also, not having to worry about as many screws can be a boon to some.
  15. Multicopter Megathread

    It could be that the sensor is getting some condensation on it, and that's affecting your video? I'm going to grab the Runcam night eagle for my next camera, and do a build dedicated to night flying. I think that will be pretty cool! There's also the Chameleon Titanium now! I might go for that - the way that the arms on the rooster are mounted means that there isn't really enough room behind the FC stack to mount both an x4r/xfire and the unify pro HV...
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