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About KaminKevCrew

  • Title
    Audio Fan
  • Birthday 1996-01-11


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 3770k
  • Motherboard
    Asus P8 Z77-V Deluxe
  • RAM
    16GB (2x8GB) Gskill 2133mhz RAM
  • GPU
  • Case
    HP Blackbird 002
  • Storage
    1TB Samsung 840 EVO, 3TB Seagate HDD, 1 TB Western Digital Black
  • PSU
    1050W Seasonic X series 80-plus gold
  • Display(s)
    Dell 2408WFP, and one more random Dell
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i
  • Keyboard
    Daskeyboard 4 w/PBT keycaps
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Sensei
  • Sound
    Asus Xonar Essence STX with Carver Speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1 Pro

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Soon to be California
  • Interests
    Computers, Cars, Tech in general, Audio
  • Biography
    I'm just some guy on the internet.
  • Occupation
    I wish

Recent Profile Visitors

2,552 profile views
  1. Anyone here use/used a DVORAK keyboard?

    If you're worried about keyboard shortcuts, use COLEMAK. It's designed to keep many of the shortcuts the same, I believe. I have a buddy who has been typing on DVORAK for years, The easiest way to switch is to change every computer you use over to DVORAK, then work on being proficient in QWERTY again.
  2. Multicopter Megathread

    The R XSR is smaller than the nail on my thumb. It's TINY!!!
  3. Multicopter Megathread

    Have you checked the CG vs the COL? It looks like the wings are going to be too far back, but I'm just eyeballing it here.
  4. Multicopter Megathread

    If you use some wire and bend it backwards, you'll get the desired spring effect. When I get home I'll post a photo of my model cub, which has that setup on the tail. It works quite well (as long as the wire doesn't create its own cavity in your foamy - that's what happened on mine. I need to fill the pocket with some epoxy...)
  5. Multicopter Megathread

    I'm just glad that my idea made sense! EDIT: You could also use something like this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/round-copper-tube-2mm-od-x-36mm.html?countrycode=US&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5t7UBRDaARIsAOreQtghv3Zs02PpCSmlMEvJYdMz_LvgFHWOauW7RzfkYIwLQEHSrpjoJvsaArbvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds if you want more rigidity without having the weight penalty of solid metal (though copper isn't necessarily the best material for that - they do make that stuff in brass and aluminum/steel, I'm sure.) And, with a metal tube, you could use some bushings on the top and bottom of the empennage for support and smooth pivoting.
  6. Multicopter Megathread

    You could just have the wheel supported on one side, and allow the wheel to be slightly offset from the rudder's control surface, then you only have to have a single shaft running down, and you could make it cylindrical at that point so that you don't need any more clearance than just the shaft.
  7. Multicopter Megathread

    Just run an extension on the rudder control surface down to the post that the wheel is mounted on. Add a hinge at the bottom of the empenage there. Also, yes, I am located in SF...
  8. Multicopter Megathread

    Can it be tomorrow yet? I have two flying related packages coming tomorrow, one of which includes a Laforge V4 module that I've been waiting on for weeks... I also have an Armattan Rooster coming in, since I broke my Fu-RC Kore V2. Additionally, I have an RDQ Mach 1 that I'm going to be building with the motors from the Kore, but one of the motors has a dented bell that binds a bit, so I'm going to be doing a bit of bashing tomorrow, just to get it spinning freely again until I can grab another one.
  9. Multicopter Megathread

    The main reason that you wouldn't want to use a brushed motor underwater is that a brushed motor has physical, moving electrical connections which can't be waterproofed. As such, you're going to lose some power due to the motor. Aside from that, yes, you do lose power because it's through brushes, etc. (honestly, I don't even know when the question was initially asked, so I hope that I'm adding something here...
  10. Multicopter Megathread

    Yeah. The whole main body of the frame is one piece of molded UD carbon. It's a really cool frame, and I might grab another one, I just won't use it around concrete and basketball hoops. I might also repair it, as that's definitely possible since I know a few people that know how to work with carbon. Until today, I've never heard of it. It's kind of cool, but I highly doubt it's a full range radio, and it won't be able to use SBUS, I think. I'm pretty sure that only D16 type (and newer) receivers can do SBUS. If that's the case, you'll definitely have latency that's at least somewhat noticeable.
  11. Multicopter Megathread

    Noooo!!! I broke an arm on my Kore V2 yesterday. That means I'm out a $140 frame... Oh well. I'm going to buy another one eventually, but it's going to a be frame reserved for racing over grass. I think the frame was too stiff to be able to take in impact into a basketball hoop. There was absolutely zero flex in that frame, which is great for speed and feel and agility, but terrible for impact absorption. Lesson learned! Buy frames with removable arms! On a side note, my Tramp HV is great!
  12. Multicopter Megathread

    It makes the tips expensive to replace sure. But, with proper care, a tip can last the lifetime of the heating element, in which case it's actually a pro -you don't have to go to the trouble of replacing it separately. Also, if you have multiple tips, having a separate heating element also means fewer hours on each individual heating element which is a plus.
  13. Best headphones

    Unfortunately I am a pedant by trade so there's not much I can do about it. Perhaps you could spend less time being bothered by others correcting you on the internet?
  14. Best headphones

    That is patently false. If you have a $300 headset, it will very likely outperform a $5 set of headphones.
  15. transmitter and receiver

    What RC stuff are you using where the receiver has it's own battery included? Even top of the line RC stuff doesn't usually have a battery for the receiver. You're expected to provide your own...