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Get a proper adapter, the combination of tethering and the frequent updates through another device is probably messing with shit, you can get an ok wifi adapter for a decent price, just make sure it supports the same WiFi version as the router for the best connection and stability.

Reviews aren't out yet, you'll have to wait. If you have the 2400G, it probably isn't going to be an amazing leap for upgrading, however if you're trying to guage if you should get the 2400 or wait for the 3400, just wait and get the 3400. It was about a 12% improvement from the 1400 > 2400, so I'd guess around the same ballpark. 10-20%

don't think of them as "Normal" compression fittings. You have compression fittings for soft tubing, these have a barb that you press the soft tubing over. You need to pay attention to both ID & OD Inner & Outer Diameter for soft tube fittings or you'll have a hell of a time getting them on. Fittings for hard tubing you just press them in, usually you only need to worry about OD with these. Pressing a barb into your hard tubing if the ID is larger wont be a problem, but if it is smaller or similar you risk cracking your tube. Barbs seal because the tube gets stretched tight around it. You do not want this with hard tubing.

the lowest socket the athlon II's supported was AM2+, while the motherboard you have only supports 939, 754, AM2. You best bet is just a athlon 64 x2 6000+

from their website, Supports Dual Channel DDR4 Two 260 pins SODIMM sockets, support for DDR4 2400/2666MHz (Real operation frequency depends on processor) Expandable up to 32GB, depends on 8GB/16GB SODIMM module You're gonna wanna buy more ram my dude. I don't know how big these videos are but you're gonna want at least 16 if not 32. it is normal behavior however. 8GB isn't enough for your workflow.

Honestly, you're actually safer with an ad blocker, as long as you aren't regularly downloading and running programs all willy nilly like. Windows Defender is actually worth something now, it's better than quite a few free AV's. Malware bytes is a good one, it is pretty good in its area. Not an av but better than most for malware. Back when I did have an AV, it was always a compromised ad that infected me. That was my reason for getting an ad-blocker back in the day not me wanting ad free browsing. I'd get rid of my ad blocker if they kept the ads secure but I'm jaded now.

on intel it is pretty simple, turn voltage to manual and pick a starting point seems like you picked 1.3v, after that start at base clock and boot. if it works, back to uefi. Increase the multiplier by 1 or 2, then repeat until you don't boot and increase voltage by either .05, not .5. and rinse and repeat. there are other settings you can change for more stability but I never overclocked broadwell-e so I'm not sure what they're called in uefi. there are guides on overclock.net, but I'm not sure if haswell or skylake would be more useful because the 6800k was broadwell-e or something? https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-intel-cpus/1570313-skylake-overclocking-guide-statistics.html

and you looked under both application and system? That's super baffling, it's rare that an error doesn't end up in there. You said you re-seated the gpu, did you try re-seating the PCI-E power in both the gpu and psu as well? If you've done all that I think the only real thing you can do now is just get a warranty replacement. If event viewer isn't showing an error, the card isn't reporting any fault other than losing display signal. So other than getting a replacement I don't know what to tell you. It should still be under warranty, it's usually 2 or 3 years for nvidia cards. Sorry I don't have anything else, I know how frustrating it can be when there's no fix I had to get a warranty replacement for my 2080Ti over the holidays.

Lol don't good grief me, you weren't all that specific. I know fraps has a benchmark tool, I'm sure msi afterburner with riva tuner has an option for recording min max and averages I'm not sure the specifics of it though. I'd recommend this route because you can tailor it to your actual use case where synthetic benchmarks will show you results more quickly, they will not be entirely accurate for a real world difference in performance however.

depends on your reason for benchmarking, are you looking to attempt records? then HWbot has a huge list of synthetics you can participate in. If you're looking for real world performance, you'll need to be a bit more creative and resourceful in finding paths and sections of games to run your own benchmark using a utility to monitor and record your fps min, max, and average. Looking for a specific benchmark to show off ram benchmarking can give you misleading results. You need to find the use case you're looking for, you mentioned fps, and test it without confirmation bias.

A good example of this, is CSGO, the game itself is a GPU bottleneck. My 2080Ti sits at very low utilization and sometimes, doesn't even run at the 3d clock speed even while getting 400+fps. With an 8700k, and a 2080Ti, you shouldn't be starting at low settings, start at max and work your way down until you find what is comfortable.

8700k and 2080ti, is no where close to mid range, you're on the top QT. You seem to be misunderstanding how utilization works. High CPU and GPU usage as long as you aren't getting system hangs are GOOD, it means you're getting the best out of your hardware. CPU Utilization, if it is low, it can be because the GPU is slowing it down, it can't do as much because it keeps waiting on the GPU to finish so it can proceed. GPU Utilization, if it is low it means it is waiting for the CPU to give it instructions. You want both CPU and GPU utilization to be high, it shows you are getting the best out of your setup. by turning the settings up, your GPU util will probably go up, and at a point your CPU util will start to decline. High framerates always equates to more CPU util, such as in csgo where I get 80% or higher cpu and like 20% gpu but I'm getting 400FPS maxed setting. Turn your settings up and stop worrying about utilization. I'll bet you can get close to the same framerate on high settings.

That sounds to be a bit on the high end actually, EVGA cards usually cool well when cranked up like that. It could either be an airflow issue in your case or a thermal paste issue. Can you try with the side of your case open with the same fan profile and see if it is any different?

He'd only need it when watching youtube videos... So he could always switch back. DNS it self doesn't, but just a different DNS can bypass some firewalls so it can't hurt to try it. I've been doing some digging, and this sophos shit seems to be a pretty advanced firewall compared to what I usually have to deal with. I'm having a hard time finding anyway to bypass it. The fact that netflix isn't blocked but youtube is is pretty weird to me. Have you reached out to staff to ask about why they do this?

event viewer logs ALL events, after it happens pay attention to what time it is, after you restart open event viewer and scroll down to the time that it happened.

Try to make this happen again pay attention to the exact time it happens, then look in event viewer. Windows Logs > Application, see if its the game or driver will sometimes show up there. If there is nothing look at windows logs > system. You're looking for red marked Errors around the time you lost video.

Nvidia is pretty strict now, you're literally fine buying any 2080 maybe if its a weird chinese brand there might be issues, but any of the big companies you're totally fine with getting.

Have you tried just using a different DNS? Such as 1dot? I don't know if it will help with this issue, but it lets me around the shenanigans at work, so I figured I'd suggest it.

If your cousin doesn't have clauses in his rental contract for electricity use, then that is on him sadly. If he didn't gather enough personal information to be able to prove they owe him the money, That is on him. If he wont disclose the bill, maybe he just wants a cut of their profits? It doesn't sound like he got scammed from what you've provided.

Depends on too many factors. If you have pets that go outside it can build up super quickly. When I was living with my brother and his dogs, I'd have to clean my PC every other month because it would just be caked in dust.

I thought this was clear, but I guess not so I'll clarify. Copper wick was wrapped around the contact pins of the switches and that pulled the solder to both sides of the PCB. I don't know why I never took a picture of it, I've never seen it before. the only way I would have gotten the switches out would have been to heat up the whole keyboard to melting point and pull the base plate.

Yes, the LEDs came out pretty easy, I'm guessing it was something they did to add stability to the switches maybe?

A keyboard I had used copper wick or something to pull the solder down the contacts on the switch, I was going to desolder that board and re-use the switches on a custom PCB, but I could not completely de-solder it to get them out in one piece and I tried using a copper wick and a solder sucker.

As I said, it's only $132 before tax. his build was 2308 before tax not 2562. I think more of us need to consider some people just don't enjoy the process of building. I love it, but for-instance, I hate cooking, I'd much rather spend more money for someone to deliver me a pizza than save the money to make and bake my own, so I can spend that time doing something I'm more interested in.

You could desolder and replace the switches, but depending on if they've re-enforced them it might not be possible to actually desolder them.