Captain Matt

I mainly use Hardware Monitor. Sometimes a good A or B Tier rated PSU might have software you can download on the product website usually called "Tools or Utilities". And yes everything in a way is connected to the Motherboard so why not get info on everything connected to it.

Most thermal and fan stats can be seen in a variety of software these days. I wasn't aware that that was a thing, I just used other programs for that.
 
As far as good brands I really like the newer Thermaltake PSUs. Be Quiet! is good too if you get the newer ones that just came out. These days any PSU that is ATX 3.0/PCIe 5.0 Compliant is just about standard these days and the new Thermaltake and MSI Models come with the new 600w 16-Pin Power Cable for the 40 Series RTX GPUs. I'll link 3 below for you. They are all A-Tier Rated on the PSU Cultist List also.
 
If you need any other help you can DM me or send me an email: pcheroesbiz@gmail.com and if you like this please mark this as the Solution.
 
Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 TT Premium 850 W 80+ Gold $140.00
 
be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850 W 80+ Gold $135.00
 
MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold $130.00

If you want frosted than 3D print clear PETG.
 

 

Then yes, IMO you'll want a thick acrylic, Unlike plastic, gonna light up better (This is subjective, I know), more resistant to scratches, and doesn't go yellow over time.
Although you might want to put some dampener materials under it, and probably between it and the pedal as well. So that it can resist chipping when you're "in the zone" and go ham on it 😂
 

That looks a lot like laser cut acrylic.
 

I've had a share of slow leaks.  It's weird shit though like I was swapping a component and a rotary fitting wasn't rotary-ing properly so it worked itself loose.  Or I had too much pump pressure.   Or the tubing got hot (45C) and shifted on the barb a little bit.  Or a GPU gasket being too crushed to seal properly anymore. 
 
I just monitor the reservoir and if it drops more than 1mm every couple weeks I know I need to go digging.  And these are *slow* leaks where they might not even be visible let alone leave a puddle.  Puddle is like an inch of reservoir drop every couple days.

tropical climate yo, average indoor ambient for me is 32c 😅

Roses are red
Violets are blue
You put your RAM DIMMs
In slots 4 and 2

Not neccesarily so
 
Sometimes i come across mint condition boards that just no post for no reason, and then you open the heatsinks
 
Actually got one right now and couldnt figure out why it wasnt posting, and then i took the northbridge heatsink off cause i figured the thing may be cracked, saw abit of dust but luckily not cracked, immedeatly after taking the heatsink off i retested the board and now it posts just fine
 
Pretty hilarious the amount of perfectly fixable boards ive found, and my only fixing method is via cleaning (either 99% IPS or dunk in water)

I totally forgot to post my Build here o.0 Oh well, better late than never ^^
 

 

 

 
 

Crappy phone pics but, changed the system up last night. Finally took a jigsaw to it. Cant bring my self to switch to my corex9.

I never actually Updated you guys on Marline. Both Loops are done* and here is the Final Result! I know that its on Carpet. Yes, it's Fine.
Door Closed
 

Door Open 
 
*This project is never finished. I have a few more things that I want to do to it. I see a Backplate, a Mid Cover Plate, and a Plate for the 5.25" Bay in her Future just to name a few. I ordered new PSU Extension cables that will fit the bill a little better than the Red and Grey ones do. I hope you enjoy the progress! Thank you for looking! 

All Tech Specs in my Forum Signature. 

Look, it had a baby!
 
Just finished a Tower 100 and a 500 build. Shame I don't have space for the 900.
 
Barrow 3-in-1 helped keep the Tower 100 clean.
 
Sorry, not a fan or RGB.
 

 
 

Ah, I see.
 
The > $100 price is just dumb. I think it is more just...how desperate do you NEED an FX CPU.
I still have my FX-8350 and ASUS Crosshair V Formula motherboard.
It's not really worth anything now....so it's just a cool display item.
(A story item when people ask, because I was able to push 5.1GHz+ on that FX-8350 haha)
 
At this point, sell the motherboard + RAM if you can.
Upgrade to Ryzen 5000 / 7000 series, or Intel 12th / 13th Gen.
Yes, that will mean new CPU + motherboard + RAM, but that is a open "when" question 5+ years.
I think long overdue upgrade my man.

Both of those pumps are powered from a 3 pin fan header.  If your motherboard has a high amperage water pump header you should be able to control the speed of the pump right with the mobo.

Sorry to say I have no experience with those style pumps though so I can't help with the other questions.

The P12/P120s. 

Sanded. Painting some edges black. And I found a really similar wrap. ❤️
 
WAY EASIER than painting. 🙂

No expensive either. - $50 out the door to over the whole case with some decent size scraps left over,
https://metrorestyling.com/products/avery-satin-dark-basalt-vinyl-wrap-sw900-871-s
 
 
Closing this thread and will make new posts when I do my project build log 🙂

Just bought on of the last Mastercase 5 Pro's in existence. Only way I could get it was with this overdone paintjob.
Now it's my job to remove the paintjob.
 
This is going to be my "magnum opus" build - Not components wise, but mod wise. 🙂
 

 
Challenge #1:
It's a hydrodrip and It feels like it might have some kind of gloss finish/polycoat on it.
 
I studied how to remove it from metal and denatured alcohol came up a lot, but I also read that that damages plastic.
 
So I'm thinking of just sanding it down with my orbital sander, but I don't want to rough up the plastic or the metal too much.
 
Challenge #2:
 
When painting plastic and metal, how can I get them to blend well?
 
Here's an extreme close up so you can get a sense for the texture.
 
 
 
Desired outcome:
Semi-gloss, non-metalic black
 
Source: https://colorshiftpearls.com/shop-custom-paint/candy-pearl-paint-colors/nightshade-dark-candy-pearls/
 
I have NO IDEA what "pearls" are though... Someone please explain haha.
 

 
Questions:
How would you recommend removing this paintjob?
  What paint and painting process would you recommend to get the metal and plastic to blend well, and to get a finish like on the car above? Will I need to rent a pro spray booth to accomplish that?
  When painting plastic and metal, how can I get them to blend well?
  I live in Colorado in an apartment. I have a small garage, but temps outside are like 20-45 F. Not good for painting. I don't think it's really safe to leave space heaters on in a small garage with spray painted stuff drying... Thoughts? Tips?  

Sanded. Painting some edges black. And I found a really similar wrap. ❤️
 
WAY EASIER than painting. 🙂

No expensive either. - $50 out the door to over the whole case with some decent size scraps left over,
https://metrorestyling.com/products/avery-satin-dark-basalt-vinyl-wrap-sw900-871-s
 
 
Closing this thread and will make new posts when I do my project build log 🙂

Great response!
 
Looks like someone is doing this for Mac and Linux... But no Windows version. 😛
 
https://alternativeto.net/software/ckb-next/about/

I don't know how Corsair keyboard works. But in the case of Logitech, they use their extension to the HID standard, which they call HID++ 2.0.
This is how they are making their keyboards (and mouse) that work without drivers on any OS, as it uses that, but for anything special, it goes through HID++ 2.0
 
The better news is that Logitech did provide a documentation of the draft of HID++ 2.0 which can be a good starting point for a developer who wants to make their alternative to Logitech own software:
https://lekensteyn.nl/files/logitech/logitech_hidpp_2.0_specification_draft_2012-06-04.pdf
But, this is a draft, not final, and who knows if things chance since 2012. Probably need communication intercepting tools to monitor the communication to get things working without guesses and luck.
 
All in all, it is a lot of work, and I have not seen anyone attempt this. I suspect the same for Corsair. It probably can be done, but too much effort for little to no reward (doesn't look fancy on a resume for someone who doesn't know, unless they really want to work at Logitech or Corsair)

Feeling a bit weird about this  :unsure:
 

 

 
 
Even the loop from L3p D3sk looks the same combined with Raz3r D3sk
 

I have a box of random office keyboards 
 
When my kb dies i just pull another random one out of the box. I dont think ive ever actually bought a kb that was new ever. Its nice to never ever think about. 

My first foray into watercooling. I’ll switch to a blood red cryofuel, scarlet red is not really doing it for me. 😂 Used bitspower goodies and 12mm acrylic tubing, now i was wondering if i should’ve gone 14mm or maybe 16mm. They look quite thin.

Default unicorn vomit
 

 
More tasteful

 
Closeup on the lightbox.

 
Done no real tweaking other than enabling PBO. Sitting pretty at 4.45GHz on all core workloads and still boosting up to nearly 5 on some cores. CPU temps stable at 75°C after an hour of Cinebench.