Vortex88

DP. Maybe plugging the cable into a different DP on the card will make a difference though. I haven't tried that. ****Update**** Just tried a different DP. No difference.

It's nice to know I'm not alone. I just thought it was really odd. I've never encountered it in any of the builds I've put together since 2008.

I've got kind of a weird situation going on with some motherboard beep codes when I first start my PC. I just recently upgraded both my GPU and CPU to an RTX 3080 and Ryzen 7 5800X3D. I've found that ever since the upgrade, my motherboard will give me one long beep and three short beeps. After looking it up online, it would appear that this is a GPU error on startup. The weird thing is, though, that after the beep code, the PC will start normally with no problems. The beep code also is not consistent and will not occur every time I start the PC. After a little trial and error, I was able to determine that the beep code will only trigger if my monitor is still off when I press the PC's power button. If I turn my monitor on before my PC, I only get the normal, single, quick beep indicating everything is fine. Windows ends up booting fine whether the beep code is triggered or not, which I find weird. Is it possible that the GPU just does not detect a display, since the monitor is powered off, and then triggers the beep code? I thought that maybe it could be because I'm using an RTX 3080 with a 600 watt SFX power supply, but I was able to find multiple forum posts and videos online confirming that the Corsair SF600 works just fine with the RTX 3080, even despite any sudden power spikes. I've also been able to run the PC fine while stress testing AIDA64 and Furmark simultaneously. Temperatures and power draw seemed to be normal and within the spec of my PSU according to HWiNFO64. No throttling. I've also played a couple of hours of Cyberpunk 2077 with the settings pretty much maxed out with RTX on and DLSS set to balanced. So far I haven't had any issues with the system trying to draw too much power and shutting down, so I don't think it's a power issue. Corsair just seems to make really robust power supplies. I also updated the BIOS to the most recent version and made sure that the XMP/DOCP memory profile was detected properly. I also made sure to turn on resizable bar. Anyway, does anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing the beep error codes? I just find it strange that the beep codes only trigger if the monitor is still off when I first start my PC and that Windows still boots regardless of whether a beep code triggers or not. Here are my PC specs if they're helpful: MOBO: Gigabyte X570 I Aorus Pro Wifi CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D CPU Cooler: EVGA CLC 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans installed RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16GB x2 @3600mhz 14-15-15-35 GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 12GB XC3 Ultra Gaming PSU: Corsair SF600 SSD: Corsair MP510 2TB NVME Case: NCase M1 Case Fans: 2x Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM and 1x Noctua NF-A9 PWM

Are there any Windows 11 users here who can comment on the state of the operating system? Windows 10 keeps bugging me to upgrade, but I'm a little apprehensive because I want to make sure all of my hardware, games, and programs still work when I switch. Does anyone know what the state of the operating system is right now? Is it worth switching over with my current hardware? My Rig: MOBO: Gigabyte X570 I Aorus Pro Wifi CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D RAM: 32GB (16GBx2) G.Skill Trident Z Neo DDR4 3600mhz CL14-15-15-35 GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra Gaming SSD: 2TB Corsair Force MP510 PSU: Corsair SF600

Damn, I'm just learning about this now. I'll have to make sure to get my passport ready for next time. I'd love to bring along my NCase M1 sleeper build.

I've been using kailh box navy switches for typing, but I've been thinking about building a board with linears as a dedicated gaming keyboard. I've been thinking about getting either the tealios switches or gateron inks. I know you said the inks are a close second to tealios, but what would you say are the differences between the two?

Ok, didn't realize I had to set the DNS that way. I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to networking. It's working on banner ads now, but ads on youtube videos are still making it through. Any idea on how to stop youtube ads?

Ok, I've gone through the posted tutorial twice now, and it is not working. No ads are being blocked at all, and Pi-Hole isn't even detecting the ads that have played in the query log. I've followed the directions step by step, and it is just flat out not working. Is there something I did wrong? I don't understand.

I agree. I just think the $700 boards are a waste of money, especially because they're not much of an improvement over their $300-$400 brethren. If you want some deep dives on motherboards, I would recommend Buildzoid from Actually Hardcore Overclocking and Gamer's Nexus on YouTube. He covers tons of motherboards in depth.

Good luck! And make sure you know where the clear cmos jumper on the motherboard is.

If it's the same model, then it's not really "mixing ram." If this was something to really worry about, then dual channel kits would be inherently risky simply because their are two sticks of ram instead of one.

I personally like Gigabyte's VRM design a lot more. No doublers used at all which will give you cleaner power delivery. Honestly though, I think both the Godlike and the Xtreme are a waste of money. The boards directly beneath them (Aorus Master and Meg Ace) are nearly the same boards for half the price. The Xtreme and Godlike boards might have a slightly better VRM, but it honestly doesn't matter at that point unless you're going to be LN2 overclocking, which they're both probably still overkill for anyway. If it were me, I'd save the money and grab either the Gigabyte Aorus Master or Asus Crosshair VIII Hero. The lowest I would go would be the AsRock Taichi.

I would just hold onto the 7700K for another year or so. None of the processors on the market right now are going to give you a huge boost for gaming over the 7700K. Not enough of a boost to justify spending the money imo. A 3600K is going to give you around the same performance in gaming as the 7700K, and the only way you're going to see a difference with the 9900K is if you're running an RTX 2080 TI at 1080p anyway. If you have a 2080 TI, then I sincerely hope you're running a higher resolution monitor, in which case, you're not going to see any performance difference at all between the 3600, 7700K, or 9900K. Just keep the 7700K, and see what AMD comes out with next year. If you want more gaming performance now, then buy a GPU.

You might be able to get it running at different settings, but it gets pretty complicated. I just finished memory overclocking on Ryzen and it took me almost a whole week. The best advice I could give if you're going to go that route is to download Thaiphoon Burner to find out what die type your memory is (Samsung B-Die, Micron E-Die, etc.). Then download DRAM Calculator, punch in your memory information, and then make the changes to the settings it churns out for you. That was the most helpful for me. I had a 3866mhz 18-19-19-39 kit that I down clocked to 3733mhz 15-16-14-28. I probably wouldn't have been able to get a stable clock going without those two programs. You have your speed and main timings which are pretty easy for the most part. You have to match your memory speed with your infinity fabric. Since it's "double data rate" memory you'd divide the memory speed by 2, which in my case, the infinity fabric ended up being 1867mhz to match the ram. Then you have to worry about sub-timings which is where it really gets difficult. That's where DRAM Calculator really shines. And don't forget about voltages and other power regulation settings. If you're just looking to quickly set XMP settings, it would probably be easier to return that kit and just buy a new one on the QVL list. Otherwise, you're going to have to go down the rabbit hole that is memory overclocking. Although maybe in your case you could just reduce the memory speed or increase the DRAM voltage if you don't want to worry about timings too much. Here's a good post about memory overclocking: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/ahs5a2/demystifying_memory_overclocking_on_ryzen_oc/

You might want to check your motherboard's QVL for compatible RAM. If your model isn't listed there, it may just be that particular kit isn't compatible with your motherboard/cpu combo. Personally, if XMP isn't working, I'd probably return it and get a kit that's listed on the QVL. You should be able to find it on AsRock's website. Just look up your board, click on support, and you should be able to find the compatibility list.

Micron E-Die is good, but I've heard the timings aren't as tight as B-Die.

It matters because a lot of PC games are just ports from console games. If you have similar hardware to what the consoles are going to be built on, then they'll likely run better. Now, I haven't heard anything about the consoles using the 3700X specifically, but you may still see better performance and any AMD CPU in future games just because the CPU architecture is similar.Again though, that's speculation and remains to be seen.

I just put a computer together that will be used primarily for gaming, and I went with a 3700X. If you want to save some money though, the common consensus seems to be that the 3600 is a great value for a gaming processor. I personally just wanted more cores. I don't necessarily need more cores, but I like the idea of having more for the future. The 9700K seems to be the absolute best for gaming right now, but there is some speculation that you may see performance degradation over time due to intel updates designed to minimize or get rid of hardware vulnerabilities like meltdown and specter. It seems we keep hearing more and more about hardware vulnerabilities with Intel, but at the same time you'll probably never run into one. Not to mention, that you may see games start to utilize more and more threads now that AMD has released their 3000 series and now that AMD is going to be designing processors for the consoles. This is all speculation though. For right now, the 9700K is the absolute best for gaming unless you're going with the 9900K. Otherwise, the 3600 is a great gaming CPU, and the 3700X doesn't build on gaming performance very much at all over the 3600. It's possible these dynamics can change over time, but it's definitely not a sure thing. I personally went with the 3700X because I feel like it's a little more future proof, if there ever was such a thing, than the 3600, and it seems like every day that goes by we hear about another Intel hardware vulnerability. Not to mention that I'd rather support AMD right now, because Intel has been resting on its laurels for about a decade, just churning out CPU's with relatively little performance gain over the last generation. Intel just hasn't been innovating, so I'm kind of mad about that. I'd rather give my money to the company that is actually innovating. Again though, that's all personal preference. If you're not getting the 9700K, the CPU that makes the most sense right now would be the 3600. Don't bother wasting your money on the 3600X either. There's virtually no difference between the 3600 and 3600X other than the price and name.

Lol, I was just about to suggest that. I just finished my RAM overclock yesterday, and I definitely had to clear cmos more than once.

Yeah, I'm not sure why people are suggesting cheap ass motherboards for a top tier CPU. Personally, if I had the money to drop on a 3950X, I'd probably grab either a Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master or Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero. For RAM, I'd definitely be at least looking for a 3600mhz CL14 kit. Ideally (and this is what I did for my 3700X), I'd get a 3866mhz kit with the lowest timings possible, under-clock it to either 3800mhz or 3733mhz, and then tighten up the timings and much as I could.

I was about to ask the same thing. If you haven't done a new windows installation, there's probably a bunch of screwed up stuff in the registry that's causing instability.

Yeah, definitely just go for whatever is cheaper if they're the same specs, unless you're going to be overclocking. If you are overclocking the ram, then you're going to want to check what die type the memory on each stick is. That can be easier said than done, but the best way to find out, that I've noticed, is to check your motherboard's qvl. They'll usually list what manufacturer made the memory dies for any of the approved kits they have on there. Other than that though, I'm not sure how you check something like that other than buying it first and then checking with Thaiphoon Burner.

That is strange. Maybe it was something in the registry?

The rule of thumb is to use the same brand and model of ram. Even if they are the same speed, they're likely going to have different timings. You'll likely lose some performance or even cause some stability issues.

Yeah, I think I'm going to leave the CPU at stock then. I've already got the ram at 3733mhz with tightened timings that I used from DRAM Calculator. I'm still going to try to overclock the GPU though. Depending on temperatures, I might just undervolt it instead though.