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EntosBox

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Everything posted by EntosBox

  1. Oh? I haven't heard that much - rather the opposite? True, any specific CPU in mind for price-performance? Oo thanks! True, makes sense - do you have a specific model that's good in the price-performance department?
  2. Hello! I was wondering which platform would be best for an affordable video editing rig. I personally am looking for the following: - Heavy media usage (Adobe After Effects, Premiere Pro, Lightroom) - Arts (Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator, Blender) - Light gaming (League of Legends, DotA, CS:GO, Overwatch, etc.) Furthermore, I'm currently running an AMD FX-8320 OC'd to 4GHz and a GTX 660Ti and was wondering a good recommendation for a CPU in the mid-range (best price-performance ratio). Thanks!
  3. Ah I see. Thanks for the recommendations, I'll take those to account :3 . The Corsair keyboards look pretty astonishing lol
  4. Interrupts? >.> I don't really care for lighting, I use a lamp lol I also don't have too much of a budget, but the cheaper the better. That being said, looking at the prices of keyboards, I can probably go up to mid $100s. Still pretty flexible with price though.
  5. To be honest, not sure. I want something that is lighter to press yet feels tactile. I don't really like those clicky keyboards (ie. some Razer keys) What type is my old keyboard?
  6. Cool. I know for a fact that there's multiple types of switches, not sure which to look for.
  7. Hi guys! Been a while since I've used the forums here. I've been looking for a new keyboard as mine feels to be wearing down quite a bit. I'm using an old Dell SK-8110 (which uses a PS-2 connection), and I like its form factor and somewhat of the way the keys feel. SK-8110: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Keyboard-Model-SK-8110-Interface/dp/B00366HMMO Honestly, I'm just looking for a similar keyboard to the SK-8110, but with some additional features: - N-Key rollover / 10-key rollover, etc. (or whatever it was that allowed you to press as much keys as you want and it would register); I've been pressing keys at the same time to the point they won't register at times - Similar layout / feel as the SK-8110 (none of those weird slim portable keyboards) - maybe a bit more tactile / faster press? I find mine to be heavy to press down on. - Preferable for usable for MMO, MOBA, programming, typing, media editing - Ships to Canada - Don't really care too much if it is 10-keyless or not, neither do I care for LEDs or whatnot - USB connection. They're all probably USB now though lol Sorry for being kind of oddly described, kind of hard for me to explain. That's probably why I need help haha. Thanks! Edit: Someone asked for budget - I don't really mind price as long as it fits my preferences, though the cheaper the better. Looking at the average prices of keyboards, it looks like mid $150 CAD? Still pretty flexible with price.
  8. Example of a video shot extremely well on just an iPhone 4S. As I said, the gear you use doesn't matter, but the skill of the users themselves. Also proving that a good smartphone with a camera is way better than those point-and-shoot cameras or wannabe-DLSRs that you cannot swap lenses or have optical zoom (not digital, which is basically cropping)
  9. whoops I forgot to mention the SL1(100D) and T3i(600D) are around $400 - $600. Plus black friday and boxing day is coming up so yeah.. Canon also has the EOS-M series which I forgot about, where the camera is about $300, and it can use the same lenses. The art industry (visual arts, music, dance, photography, cinematography, etc.) is a hard one to break into, since so many people are doing it, especially with the internet. Photography, videography and cinematography are the hardest in particular due to even more people interested (its easy, and can be done online) and the gear is extremely expensive ($1000 camera body, $700+ lenses, $400 for audio, $300 - $700 for a rig system is considered a meh). If you are looking for something that you can bring around for a family trip, or trying out photography / videography lifestyle, I recommend the SL1, T3i or EOS-M for an investment that you can build on (getting lenses, audio, etc.) . But if you are just doing it on the side, smartphones nowadays capture about the same images a point and shoot can, so I'd rather just get a phone with a good camera. Again, Sony and Nikon also have their offerings, with Nikon being slightly on the photo side, and slightly cheaper, and Sony being better on the video side (their handycam camcorders are pretty decent). The gear you use doesn't matter, but the skill of the users themselves.
  10. Assuming you need a cheaper solution, a Canon camera with interchangeable lenses may be the best choice due to good enough video and photo quality. From the Canon lineup, try the SL1(100D) or a T3i(600D) from $400 - $600, or if you can bump it up a notch try finding a refurbished / on sale 7D (prices are dropping to $900 - $1000 due to the release of the new 7D mkII) which was well regarded as a great camera for sports and wildlife, and I'm sure it has good video. The 70D and T5i (700D) are also an option ($1000 and $700 respectively), but they are more or so luxury features added onto the T3i or SL1. Sony is more or so a mirrorless SLR option, which isn't the best for photography, but is good for video. They also make camcorders that are great for video (though you cant get interchangeable lenses. Nikon is great for photography, though the features aren't so great when it comes to video. They are also cheaper, however, and also include 1080p 60FPS video (which Canon does not have for who knows why). Either or, as long as you can shoot with full manual settings (Aperture, Shutter, ISO and whatever that can get you a flat image) and you have an interchangeable lens system you should be good. If you want better advice, try asking an actual specialized photo/video/cinema forum.
  11. Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't FPS on video doesn't matter as much if you play it at regular speed? As long as the shutter is double the FPS you should get that proper smoothness, for example cinemas and movies use 24 fps, at a shutter speed of 1/48 (which 1/48 isn't available on some lower level cameras which is why lots of people say to use 50). If you are going to use slow motion, FPS would matter, but they aren't doing much of that are they? Plus I'm pretty sure they can do 60FPS 2k with that camera, correct me if I am wrong as well.
  12. If I push it I may be able to get some decent frame rates on minesweeper at 360p, but solitaire is impossible to play at 360p.
  13. 144p is nice too, but I'm thinking to go more or so 240p.
  14. Hm... Well I suppose they are really bad. Would you rather just wait for a better monitor to be on sale?
  15. yeah ikr I wish they had them back in stock at the same price...
  16. basically a no-budget. I'm buying from some store downtown, but its like $50 for each.
  17. Hello! Currently I am using a 24 inch 1080p monitor, with nothing special on it, but I am okay with it. I do quite a bit of video and photo work, and a secondary display would be amazing. Currently I am deciding between an Insignia 24 inch 1080p TV, or an Asus 1600 x 900 Monitor. I don't really need any special features on a monitor other than it being above 20 inch and being 1080p, both at the same price. The TV would be my go-to, but I was wondering if it was okay sitting on my desk as a monitor. If not, another option is to wait for another monitor to go on sale at the store. Help appreciated, thanks!
  18. ah alright. The VP83 seems like a good option, similar to the VideoMic Pro in most aspects. It does push my budget, so I'm probably going to go for the VideoMic Pro if I end up choosing to not include the Zoom H1 as a preamp/external recording device, since they are quite similar. Thanks for responding! I may have to change the topic name since no one else responded as of typing this o.e
  19. Hello! I was wondering if anyone knew any good budget microphones, and I'm a complete noob when it comes to audio-related equipment. Typically, I am going to be using them on a Canon 70D DLSR alone, and sometimes maybe on a boom pole on a group project. I'll also probably use it on my desk, but the run and gun style is more or so my focus. I was looking primarily at the RODE VideoMic series (Videomic, Videomic GO, Videomic PRO), along with the Zoom H1 also in consideration. Here, the Videomic GO costs $100, the Videomic w/ Rycote Mount at $180, the Videomic PRO at $230, and the Zoom H1 at $100. I'm looking around at the sub-$200 range, with around $250 pushing it. Looking up samples, it seems that the VideoMic and VideoMic PRO have extremely similar sound when the +20DB feature is turned off on the Pro version. The Zoom H1 also has a +20DB Gain feature, and because the bad audio is also caused by the camera's built in preamp, would it be fair to assume that the VideoMic + Zoom H1 Combo will work fine? This option would also allow a lot of flexibility, as the Zoom H1 is also external and can be monitored. It also seems that the Rode Videomic GO is more or so airy from some results, and some reviews say that it is due to the lack of a battery, as well as some DSLR's bad built-in preamp. But would it also be fair to assume that this issue would be fixed when paired with a Zoom H1? Since we are now using the battery-powered H1 and the H1's improved preamp (over the integrated camera), would I get decent quality? In summary, I'm either to go for a Rode Videomic + Zoom H1 combo, Rode Videomic GO + Zoom H1 combo, or a standalone Rode Videomic PRO or any other solutions that I am not aware of and is recommended. Any and all help is appreciated, thanks!
  20. 1. Try buying a pre-built one then from some retailers. Don't know any in the US (Assuming you're from there), but in Canada I know NCIX, Canada Computers and I believe Tiger Direct (though they are normally more expensive) make builds. I believe they also come with warranties 2. Pick reputable parts for your build that are new, and have warranty. Then just return and request a new one if its broken. I was able to get parts from Corsair in replacement for my damaged ones easily, just by sending the infos. Plus, I completely agree with this guy. People are judgmental on first glance. Then you realize how simple it is later on. I understand where the worry comes from, and if I had a kid asking for a butt ton of money for a weird machine that possibly wouldn't work, I would walk the same route at first. Just try reasoning. You can also ask for $400 and say you have no interest in the PS4 and you will just save it for future use. All else fails, take the PS4, and save up. Get both slowly but surely
  21. Well, each to their own . At least I know you have some reason to pick the parts, but the ones you chose are a bit overkill. Per example, if you're storing video, just go for a butt ton of Caviar Greens (archive) and a single high-capacity SSD (alongside your OS SSD if you prefer) if you do editing work (and move it to the Caviar Green to archive it when done). My last say if you really want to outdo yourself. Choice is completely yours either way
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