MartinEyefinity

Yes you're right about the prime lenses! I have done more research and decided to also buy the relatively new Canon 50mm 1.8 stm prime lense, along with the zoom lens. These two lenses together should be adequate for nearly all situations (traveling, small events, portraits, objects etc). I'm still not sure about which zoom lens though, but I'll just spend a little more time research that. Probably going for the Canon 18-135 I mentioned earlier because the main reason was the extra zoom.

I'm planning on buying a canon 200D (I think its the Rebel SL2 in the US). I have never owned a camera, nor do I have much experience with photography. But on my trips abroad I have sometimes borrowed my friends (now relatively old) canon 600d which had the regular kit lens on it. What I noticed is that I regularly wanted more zoom on the lens while traveling. So, i was looking on what lens I would like with the Canon. An alternative ''kit'' lens is the more expensive "Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM" which also functions with all the new features of the Canon 200d with CMOS sensor (Dual Pixel CMOS AF etc). But when watching reviews for this lens I repeatedly heard reviewers say to consider the "Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM" as it would be a better value for money (better build quality, better optics etc). Now before going for the Sigma lens, I tried googling for answers but didnt get lucky (all topics were in 2011 while the new version of this lens is from around fall 2013. I was wondering if there any downsides to the Sigma lens. For example, I heard that the focussing, image stabilization and the Dual Pixel autofocus etc works really well with the Canon 18-135mm lens. So my questions are: Do I sacrifice any of this, or something else, when going for the Sigma? Is the Sigma really better than the Canon? Is there any other all-round travel lens you would recommend to buy for the Canon 200D (SL2), as an even better alternative to the Sigma Lens? My budget for a good lens is up to 500 dollars Thanks in advance for the help!

I've been following the ZTE Axon 7 since the chinese launch in May. I think it's a great phone, especially for the price. My current phone is an HTC One m7, so I'm ready for an upgrade this year. I really love the front-firing speakers I have now, so this phone looks like the perfect follow-up. Even though the camera isn't as good as the galaxy S7 or other flagships, it's still a hell of a lot better than my M7. I was waiting for the quarts-gray version to arrive in Europe, but if I win in this give-away the gold color isn't a dealbreaker for me! Good luck everyone!

In case someone else has this problem as well; turning on airplane mode, waiting for a few seconds for it to kick in, and then disable airplane mode again is the fix for this problem. You have to do this every time after the phone has been fully turned off or rebooted. Really weird, but it's a quick fix.

The weirdest thing happened: I woke up this morning, and the sim was working. I don't care about the t-mobile branding at boot/shutdown. At least everything works again. How I did it, no idea. Maybe because it has been in airplane mode and has been updating a lot (although anndroid and sense was already fully updated before i posted here, but some other HTC services got updated). Thanks for thinking along guys, I can breathe again.

Update: I have just found that the CID of my phone is: T-MOB101 This means my phone was intended for the German T-mobile market, and the Dutch shop I bought it from (or who-ever supplied to that shop) managed to get software installed on it to remove all the t-mobile branding etc, and to make it work with other sim-cards. The problem is, my factory reset brought back the old, original software. So, what now? Maybe this extra info helps to get you smartphone-rooting geniuses to a solution Silly me was thinking: could it work to download this file and try to install it using their instructions: RUU M7 UL K44 SENSE55 MR HTC Europe 4.19.401.9 R Radio 4A.23.3263.28 10.38r.1157.04L Release 353069 Signed 2-1 http://www.htc1guru.com/downloads/stock-rom-downloads/ Or is that not going to work because the CID is not matching?

No, I wish I did it like that - that would have been an easy fix (try another image). But how I did it is simply turn off the phone, hold volume down + power button to get into the bootloader (or am I using the wrong terms here?) and then selecting the factory reset (with volume and power keys). And then after 10 minutes or so I arrived at the screen to select language etc. This is so weird, because when I got the phone nearly 3 years ago there was nothing from t-mobile on it! And now I also get the t-mobile screen when turning phone on or off...

Thanks IMPERIUS, that was my plan for tomorrow morning (it's evening here now). Anything else I could try in the meantime?

Hello Everyone! Summary: I fucked up. Badly. After factory reset my phone seems T-mobile locked (never had anything to do with this carrier). T-mobile does not recognize the IMEI number using the website tool. I live in the Netherlands, I bought this phone from a Dutch webshop 3 years ago. This is the first time I factory reset it. Because my old HTC One M7 was getting sluggish, fast battery drain despite brand new battery, WiFi issues (see my other post) I decided to factory reset. After the factory reset, it booted with a T-mobile screen. To be clear: I bought an unlocked phone, which had nothing to do with T-mobile. I never saw any T-mobile apps or branding on this phone in the last 3 years. I never had a t-mobile simcard. Also, numerous t-mobile apps were installed. So I thought: crap, this phone was locked. So, I went to the t-mobile website to unlock it using the IMEI number. T-mobile did not recognize this number. Yet my sim card does not work, at all. What should I do? Its currently factory resetting again. If that doesnt help, I'm going to try an old backup from last year which is linked to my HTC account. But I'm afraid that's not going to change things which affect the bootscreen as well. Any suggestions? I'm not familiar with rooting or custom ROMS etc. I would just prefer an easy fix to make my sim-card work again. Thanks guys!

Thanks Nord! I'll definitely try those things you suggested. I'll reply again once I've tried both.

Thanks krkevin for thinking with me to find a solution. I have considered it, but the work involved on getting everything back on is going to be horrible in my case (it's probably going to take me a full day). I hoped to find another solution, but if there is no easy fix I could be able to try a factory reset in a few weeks. Does anyone have another idea, which is less time consuming? ?

Summary of problem: WiFi on my android phone does not work properly at home. When i connect, I usually have well performing WiFi for at least a minute. After that it seems to lose the internet connection, while it still shows to be connected in the status bar on top. No matter how long you wait (at least 5 minutes, at that point my patience ran out), it wont get to work again automatically. What solves the problem is disabling wifi, en then enabling it again so it reconnects. But the problem returns in a matter of minutes, with some bad luck even after 30 seconds. You can imagine watching a 30+ minute youtube video, like the WAN show, is no longer entertaining when it's necessary to switch WiFi on/off about 15+ times during that video. Things that do work: Using WiFi on my phone works well at my grandmothers house, (or at least significantly better). WiFi on my laptop at home works well (also using 2,4ghz on laptop). Wired connection at home works well. Hardware/software: - Networking:the wireless access device at home is an Asus RT-N66U router, connected to the ISP router. It's only meant to be a wireless access point and has no other function. It's configured with one 2,4ghz network and a 5ghz network. I am using the 2,4ghz because the 5ghz doesn't reach my room properly. Security on the 2,4ghz network is WPA2 PSK. - Device: an HTC One m7 with android 5.0.2. The IP settings on phone are configured as DHCP. Tried so far: - Already mentioned the turning off/on which works short term, but is not a proper solution - I tried giving my phone a fixed IP address - made no difference - switching off all WiFi devices in my room to minimalize interference - made no difference. So you guys have any suggestions of what else I should try? Thanks in advance.

if you've got an android phone (don't know if it works as well with iPhones) I'd recommend the chromecast. Cheap and works brilliantly!

Jonathan Morisson just uploaded a video where he mentioned this Symphonized Wraith Headphones for <50$. Here's the video where he mentions it: The Best Tech Under $50 - February 2016, it's the first item he covers, at 0:10. Worth considering, I guess? Also, the pinned audio thread recommending headphones etc gives these examples in their post: Monoprice 8323 Surprisingly low distortion for a headphone in the price range, these have decent build quality, a removable cable, and fold for easy transport. While the sound is hardly amazing, it is a cut above most headphones in the price range and would make a beater headphone for gaming or taking on the go. Superlux HD668B (semi-open) Distinctly V-shaped sound signature. Lots of treble, mid-bass boost. Not recommended if sharp highs are an issue. Removable (male on headphones) 3.5mm cables, not compatible with boompro without an adapter. Superlux HD681 (semi-open) Very balanced sound for the price, though still slightly bright. Non removable cable. Superlux HD-681 EVO Nice bass-head headphones on the cheap, though lacking sub-bass extension. Craptastic upper-mids. Removable (male on headphones) 3.5mm cable, not compatible with boompro without an adapter.

If I'm right you are referring to the video about 1 CPU 2 gamers video (and the later 7 gamers on 1 tower). Then yes, you can allocate one graphics card to each individual virtual machine. But what I don't understand in your question is that you are talking about 1 monitor. How are you planning to have 2 people play from 1 monitor? Split screen? If you are, then in theory it should be possible if your monitor supports such kind of input (2 different inputs in one monitor). But i'd suggest you just find another monitor if you really want to go for 2 gamers in 1 tower.