soup

You have no idea what is and isn't compromised," nuke and repave", soon as you can or from another computer[1](DO NOT CONNECT THE INFECTED MACHINE TO THE 'NET) change any passwords, log ons, secondary questions, the lot. Sorry for lost stuff but this should be treated as a learning experience. One place were paranoia is appropriate is on the 'net. [1] Probably quicker from another machine can she borrow the use of one immediately to change Pwords etc?

More in than out.

Wasn't that what the "You might be able to do it with lower pressure" bit was about?

Different demands at different areas so different results. Not saying it can't be your processor but it is much more likely to be your MoBo . Take it you can't get a known good copy of your 4790K chip and try that? Found this . Anygood? http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch001089.htm

More than likely the MoBo then.

Much more likely to be your MoBo than your proccesor (assuming your testing already eliminated the PSU as the source of the problem). If the PSU has not been eliminated I would test that first as this is almost certainly where your problems stem from.

In performance 2 X4 would be better as it will use both memory channels but any improvement would be minimal and any improvement would only be observable in benchmarks. As to reliability one stick has half the chance of going wrong than two sticks (another tick in the just use 1 X 8 box). If you already have the 1 X 8 use that with the knowledge that you wouldn't be able to tell the difference anyway.

Best, at what?

Lots and lots and ... on eBay (99p region [$1.25]) Cobble up some form of wood effect (sticky back plastic?) if that is really important to you

If you could draw 750W yep you would be fine but a more realistic power output for this unit would be 450W. Really it is bad (with a capital B ) in all respects, ditch it as soon as. From ;- http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/coolmax-cul-750b-750-w-power-supply-review/10/ We can’t understand how a manufacturer label a 450 W power supply as a 750 W and get away with it. We thought we had already got rid of this kind of thing here in the US, but we guess we were wrong. Even if Coolmax CUL-750B could deliver its promised wattage it would still be a bad product, since its cables are short and it has only four SATA power connectors. On the other hand, voltage regulation and noise/ripple levels are excellent, and efficiency stayed all the times above 80%. But please keep in mind that two samples from this unit burned when we pulled 500 W from it, so probably this unit would present efficiency below 80% if we were able to pull its labeled wattage. If you take a closer look at our tests, you will see that this unit achieved its efficiency peak at 200 W. Efficiency is usually plotted as an inverse parabola, reaching its peak somewhere between 40% and 60% of its maximum wattage. Therefore, using the maximum efficiency we’ve seen in our tests, we could easily calculate that the maximum wattage for this power supply would be somewhere between 333 W and 500 W – matching with a fantastic precision what we found during our tests. By the way: the manufacturer says the fan from this unit is 140 mm, but this is wrong, this unit uses a 135 mm fan.

NP. I tend to view the registry as "here be dragons"territory. Unless it is a very well documented and a very straightforward edit I leave well alone I certainly wouldn't let any automated proccese at it. Just guessing now :- Maybe a "repair" with the original Win disc (if you have it/can access it) will clear up the registry problem . Or maybe someone else will come along with a solution Apart from trying the repair I am out of ideas. Many say that a reinstall of the O/S every now and then is good for the system anyway so... Good luck

No problem what-soever (mine's is at 0.1% BTW)

And some not so useless ones, obviously. As to your original problem beyond a complete reinstall (not the end of the wotld anyway) I can offer no solution

Why not connect a keyboard, you needn't use it . Have never heard of anything in software that does it. Conjecture :- Maybe there is a registry seting reliant on a KB being present perhaps editing that. (be very carefull faffing about in the registry editing it wrongly can totaly F*&*-up your system)

WTF are you talking about tink there are no diodes on a disk. All that error is 'saying' is the system for accesing the information on the disk is not working. This MAY be caused by a dirty disk . Ensure the disk is clean (not just looks clean). If that doesn't do anything try cleaning the lens system of your disc player (this will involve the use of a cleaning disk {tink's "disc with a brush on"]). If that fails the disk itself may be physically damaged ( small scratches that wouldn't be seen are usually dealt with by error correction code within the player software. So this is a long shot) maybe the damage is small enough not to be seen but large enough to cause problems for the code reading software. Maybe get a different disc, very few places will accept returns but maybe if bought from a local shop that you can take the disk back to physically showing them the error will lead to them thinking "ah well for good will. Even though it's out of the shrink wrap we will swap it. If bought on Amazon etc try it on you never know . Sorry there are so many maybes but life is so seldom clear cut. Good luck

Oh for $eitys sake lucagrabacr If it works it works if it doesn't it doesn't. No one (without physical access to your hardware) can tell if anythings broken . Stop looking for definites there are none.

Why does it matter zMeul ? Unless you know of a way that magically tests gpu/video card for physical damage.

Not that I am aware of . Why not use your GPU and see if it does what it used to . If it doesn't there is something wrong if it does don't lose sleep over it.

Note that " MAY".

Is it a definate that everything is the same except colour? What about the timings. Whilst Dimms with different speeds are supposed to work together (at the speed of the slowest) it is MUCH better to have them at identical speeds and timings. The colours on the heatspreaders doesn't matter in the slightest unless they indicate a different model. With two posts, I would guess so.

Once again a "what is best" question without any guidance as to the best at what.

No guarantees but the following should work :- Try https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Microphone-Headphones/dp/B00Y4663GG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1474932512&sr=8-9&keywords=mic+and+headphone+splitter Headphone/mic phone cable plugs into the single combo socket then the two seperate plugs go into the two (one microphone one speakers) sockets on the computer case. Mind you by the time you have bought this splitter and had it shipped to Slovenia you would probably be as well off getting a new dedicated (virtually guaranteed to work) mic. Best of luck I remember once recording my voice (for a web forum I was subscribed to at the time) by shouting into the headphones which I had plugged into the mic socket (the sound quality was erm 'interesting', but it did work).

Not at all a 'audiophile' but things to think about might be Does the lead from your headset have one or two plugs? Does the system have seperate sockets for microphone or a single combined socket? Perhaps some combination of splitters/combiners will work. The plug on a phone is divided into three sections( and ground) Lspeaker R speaker and Mic Normal audio plugs have only two distinct regions L speaker and R speaker. Aside for 'audiophiles'. If you plug (say) the mic plug into a combined socket will the system be able to see that as a mic only signal or will it just be garbled crap

Quite probably. TBH I have never actually used one . Attended college a couple of evenings during my A+ for practical/hands on stuff (you could read till tomorrow about push so and so with about as much force as a... but actually doing it allows you to feel in ten seconds how much force to use) . The lecturer there said for any CIA exam question you must state that you have taken appropriate ESD precautions including wearing a wrist strap then went on to say in practise so many use them wrong, and if you are sensible they don't actually do anythingmuch; so they will NOT be used . He did say that due to the (limited) circuitry (sounds like WEEEEs resistor) in it, they need to be PAT tested so that was another reason they were never used . This was five~sixyears ago components are even more hardened to ESD nowadays. People are too precious about ESD, as long as you are sensible no scuffing feet etc and you touch an (unpainted) part of the case occasionly you should be fine. If you are paranoid by all means use a strap (they are really quite cheap) but DO NOT hardwire yourself to earth