Dingo1489

I get it now, thanks. I got a little too hung up on the year of RM I just disregarded everything else, and the release dates of these things are in the specs, so I can refer to that anyway. Thanks!

I lied, sorry. This one. https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-series-rm750x-cp-9020179-na-750w/p/N82E16817139233?&quicklink=true

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jtm323/corsair-rm-2019-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020196-na That one.

I just want to make sure I'm understanding this chart correctly. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/psu-cable-compatibility If I want an RM model power supply and wanted to pair it with Corsair's own branded colored power supply cables, would I be fine getting all type 4 cables, or do I need a type 3 cable just for the ATX and type 4 for the rest? Or am I just completely off the mark? Thanks!

After upgrading my Mobo (MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Edge) and CPU(i5-10600k), one of the usb's ports on my case only seems to want to read usb 3.0 devices, or at least that's how it seems. The most I've tested is plugging in a micro USB to a controller and not getting any response, but with a USB thumb drive, the drive is read and can copy and read files. I've double check the 3.0 connector, updates the BIOS I'm pretty sure I got all the new drivers, so I'm out of ideas on how to fix this, so any help would be much appertiated. Thanks! Edit: It might be worth mention that on the case (Corsair 400C) One of the USBs works just fine with anything I put in it, it's just the one in particular that doesn't want to cooperate all the time.

Hello. As an early Christmas for the house, I bought a Linksys Velop Home Wifi System to replace our old one. While it works great so far, it came to my attention that we received a promotional speed boost from our ISP. We had been be getting 60 down before and the promotion was meant to give us 200 down. However, running speeds tests would only ever give us 100 After exhaustive trouble shooting and making sure all parts of the network could accommodate the 200 down speeds, I concluded that the Velop router was throttling our speed. This is easily confirmed by looking the switch connected to the router, which is connected to our modem, and not seeing the LED that indicates a 1000Mb where the router is connected. The router itself can't reach 1000Mb speeds, but still tops out at ~400Mbs. Just to be as sure as I could, connecting a PC directly to the modem gets the speeds that it should. Since I'm mostly positive everything is connected the way it should be, I can only guess there's some kind of setting somewhere that reducing our speeds. Whether that's a Velop setting or a Windows setting, I don't know, networking is a sordid weak spot for me. So if anyone has an answer, that would be awesome. The Velop router in question: https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Tri-band-coverage-Replacement-Network/dp/B01MSSUG2H/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1513081232&sr=8-2&keywords=velop+2+pack

Didn't know that. Thanks. I didn't jot it down, but if I remember right, I think it was at 2200 RPM, which seemed normal.

The card in question is an EVGA 1080 Founders Edition I decided to boot up Destiny two after not playing for a bit. After a bit of play, I noticed my computer was being loud. A quick look at the task manager revealed the GPU was on 100% load, despite the game saying I wasn't even using 3 of the 8 available GBs of VRAM, running a temperature of 82C, according to Corsair Link. I was running on high settings at a 1440p/144hz. I thought that maybe Destiny 2 might have just been a demanding/poorly optimized game, so I took some numbers from other games. Nioh, a single player PS4 port, at 1080p high settings, ran a temp of 69C at a 40% load. Finally Titanfall 2's single player campaign ran temperatures almost identical to D2, 82C at 100% load with the same 1440/144 settings. This is all after I've updated my drivers to the most recent from Geforce Experience. Performance is not an issue, just to be clear, but I'm not sure if this is all well and normal and fine and I'm just acutely aware of the sound all of a sudden, or if these numbers are something I should be worrying about. I'm sure I've heard blower style cards are typically loud in general, but I've never questioned it, so any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I'm really frustrated, mostly with myself, cause notice different things now. The "Dead Pixel" only seems to on my desktop wallpapers. Running a game or placing something over it like a web browser, game launcher etc. makes it go away. Mind you, I only keep calling it a dead pixel cause I don't know what else to call it. It seems more like it's part of whatever picture my desktop wallpaper is and I don't even know how that can even happen. And truthfully, it's not there when it matter, likes games and what not, just strictly on the desktop wallpapers. I might be able to live with that. I don't know why I'm doing this now. I'm tired and should have been asleep hours ago, but this just bothers me. Going to bed. I think I'd be more happy with a reason/solution as to why the Acer monitor has a piss colored filter on it. Thanks again.

Havent tried that, how would I even try that with the card still there. Do I have to take it out?

It all started when I bought this monitor: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009C3M7H0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Everything was great except I was running a dual display with a monitor that was 1080p so when I was able to afford it, I bought another one of these. Awesome for a few days til I noticed a single dead pixel on the upper right hand part of screen. Well shoot. So I order a replacement, set it back up. Same thing. Well shoot again. Order another replacement, sent the first one back. Set up the new new one. Same thing, dead pixel on upper right Order another replacement. Same issue. At this point, I'm think there's a bad batch of these over at Amazon and I really wanted a second monitor that could do 2k resolutions, so after getting on the phone with Amazon, they agreed to refund that third ASUS monitor and got me a few bucks off and free shipping off of this monitor: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UPVXDA8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Just came yesterday. With it being better, obviously it's what I want to be my main display, so I take the displayport cable from the Asus (The very first one that had no issues up to this point.), move it to the Acer and use a DVI for the Asus. Lo and behold, there's a dead pixel on the upper right hand of the Asus screen. Only I guess it's not a dead pixel. Switching DVI cables and ports don't seem to make it go away. Other input meathods like HDMI and Displayport don't matter. What I've discovered though is that when I have a single monitor hooked up, the "dead pixel" shows up in the same spot, even on this new acer. But when I switch to dual displays, the "dead pixel" shows up on the upper right hand corner of the second display (the one not set to main display.) On top of all of this, the Acer I just got seems to be having some color issues. Side by side with the Asus that work, the colors appear to have a yellowish tinge that I can't seem to get rid of. This might be a separate issue, but I may as well list in this sad, sad post. Suffice it to say, I have no clue what's going on other then there's a chance there was nothing wrong with any of the monitors (except the acer with the yellow problem). But why a problem with the pixel, display and input be damned? Could it be my video card? A windows setting? Something I'm not thinking of? All I want is dual 2k monitors. I'll gladly send this Acer back if there's something wrong with it, but geez. This sucks. I'll list a few specs, the one's that might be important, but please ask if you need some other piece of information. OS: Windows 7 64-bit GPU: GTX 780 ti CPU: i5-4690k RAM: 16gb Thanks in advance to those who help me with my plight.

Nevermind, found a solution that worked. Thanks!

So I got a new monitor, a 1440 Asus. Sweet. I've made it my main monitor and extended the display with my previous monitor, a Dell. My issue is that before this, I had my display (The Dell) duplicating on my TV, a Samsung but now I'm having a hard time doing what I would like to do. Basically what I would like is for the Asus to be my main display, the Dell extend that display, and have my Asus duplicate onto the Samsung. Is there an easy way to do this? If it helps, the way my displays are identified is Asus 1, Samsung 2, Dell 3. Thanks!

Alright, looks like I won't be doing this anytime soon then, but I guess it's better I didn't damage anything attempting to do it willy nilly. Thanks again!

So my motherboard is an Asus Maximus Hero VII, with an i5-4690k CPU, and 16GB of memory of that's relevant. For cooling though, all I have is the stock CPU cooler, along with one extra case fan. The case is a Corsair 200R. I guess the real question is how far will I be able to overclock without doing too much damage? Should I even overclock at all with my available cooling? Thanks!