elliott35

I made a DVD using the ISO and installed off of that instead, it worked. Changing to Legacy probably would have had the same effect. 
 
Thanks,

I'm honored ?

Yay, someone cares about me!
 
I also strive to find the strangest gifs for my account pictures.

Pretty much any active DP to HDMI 2.0 adapter will allow you to convert DP to 4k/60Hz HDMI. They typically run around $20, so as long as you look for a decently rated one on Amazon that advertises 4k and lists it as an active adapter, you should be good.
 
For example I'm currently using this one https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-DP-HD20AW-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B01EBAINOO on my 55" 4k display. It works fairly well, aside from the fact that the adapter makes the TV wig out, causing it to lose its HDMI connection type (PC), making it default back to DVI every time I turn the TV on. Based on the ratings, I'd recommend grabbing this adapter https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8 (which wasn't available when I bought the Ableconn adapter).

I'm guessing the color profile (under the resolution menu) is either YcBcR 420 or 422? If so, that's why.HDMI 1.4 can do 4k 60Hz with color compression. The colors won't be as accurate as 444 compression (lossless) or RGB (uncompressed), but if color accuracy isn't a concern then it's not a bad way to go.

You should be able to, as long as your TV supports it, yes.
 
If you needed to pull up the specifics of your TV and if it supports RGB or YcBcR 444, I'd suggest checking out http://www.rtings.com/

Couldn't find the 940D but it does list the 930D with 4k/60Hz @ 444, so it's probably supported.
 
Technically, RGB is the least compressed. However, RGB and YcBcR 444 are both visually identical. Some TVs look/behave better with YcBcR while some others look/behave better with RGB. Then there's some TVs that doesn't care which you use. It couldn't hurt to try either YcBcR 444 vs RGB, but I would stick with YcBcR 444 since that's what most TVs are designed to use out of the gate.

5GHz only has a wavelength of ~ 60mm vs 2.4GHz at ~ 120mm which is why 2.4GHz goes farther through walls.
 
So try setting the two the farthest away from each other or with the most walls between them on the same channel.

As per spec of the FCC the router must drop to 20MHz mode to avoid interference.
 
When you run in 40MHz mode your using two non overlapping channels closest to each other (ie: 1 and 6 or 6 and 11. The only non overlapping channels on 2.4 GHz are 1/6/11. So to run all APs in 40MHz you need to have then far enough away from each other. 
 
But you don't actually need 40MHz unless you actually have a 2.4GHz 802.11 N device that does 600 Mbps, which is quiet uncommon unless you bough an aftermarket PCI-E card. 
 
Thus set all three APs on the 2.4GHz side to 1/6/11 @ 20MHz.  
 
Such is the same for 80MHz on 5.2GHz-5.8GHz for AC but with AC @ 80MHz their are only two non overlapping channels.
 

I have that case and unless you feel like doing some metal work you should plan on getting a 160mm psu. Its worth it, its just an added headache that you dont need. Im using the Corsair AXI 860 and it fits great

But would you spend 1000 for three feet? 

But would you spend 1000 for three feet? 

Has LTT or anyone ever done a video dispelling this hideous myth? If not they definitely should... Id show it to everyone that walks in the store

Has LTT or anyone ever done a video dispelling this hideous myth? If not they definitely should... Id show it to everyone that walks in the store

Has LTT or anyone ever done a video dispelling this hideous myth? If not they definitely should... Id show it to everyone that walks in the store

Im looking to put an SSD into my Freenas box as the OS drive. I want a cheap one, it doesn't need to be larger than 32 gigs. What do you guys think is the best one? This one or This one seem pretty good. This is instead of booting off of a flash drive. 

pentium g2030
h61m microatx mobo
random case from ebay
the hard drives you need for storage(max 4 with h61 chipset)
a thumb drive for freeNAS
Kingston ValueRAM 
seasonic s12ii 350w PSU
that's it I guess
 

If you are unlucky than you should just stop tinkering and leave it stock the way the smart engineers from Intel designed it. Also, you should be more specific about what hardware you have.

raid z1, z2, z3 is the level of the raid that is equvent to raid 5 and 6. The number after the z is how many drives can fail without losing data.
 
The parity drive isn't a backup. It stores enough data so that you can lose 1 or 2 drives and still have all your data. It basically calculates the difference between the drives so that it will be able to restore all the files if a drive fails.

You normally want a even number of drives for data and then add the number or parity drives you want. So for 6 tb you could use 6 1tb hdd's and 2 1tb hdds as a parity in a raid z2.

You would have to copy the data off to anouther driver, then add the drives and make a raid z1. There is no way to convert the single drive to a raid z1 without copying your data off, like you can on btrfs or hardware raid cards.

If you are unlucky than you should just stop tinkering and leave it stock the way the smart engineers from Intel designed it. Also, you should be more specific about what hardware you have.

It won't need to go through the router unless the switch doesn't know where the device is. Layer 2 switches handle "routing" via MAC address so if it knows the MAC address and nothing is in place to prevent the ports from talking to each other it won't bother going to the router.
 
I ran these two quick tests on my desktop using iperf (2.0):
 
Desktop to NAS via switch (unmanaged cheap 1Gbps TP-LINK 8 port PoE switch):
[ ID] Interval       Transfer     Bandwidth
[  3]  0.0-10.0 sec   858 MBytes   720 Mbits/sec <--- Upload
[  3]  0.0-10.0 sec   876 MBytes   734 Mbits/sec <--- Download
 
Desktop to NAS via switch then router (desktop is plugged into the same switch above, switch is plugged into router, NAS is plugged into router):
[ ID] Interval       Transfer     Bandwidth
[  3]  0.0-10.0 sec   718 MBytes   601 Mbits/sec <--- Upload
[  3]  0.0-10.0 sec   793 MBytes   665 Mbits/sec <--- Download
 
For reference:
Switch: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BP0SSAS
Router: http://routerboard.com/CRS125-24G-1S-2HnD-IN
NAS: https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/DS115j
 
EDIT: I added both upload and download speeds for comparison.

Don't waste your electricity on a pfSense box. The cost to power a pfSense box (even an Intel Atom) is more than 4 times the cost of running a consumer router. Just find any router that meets your needs or if you want to go high end without breaking the bank (on cost and your electric bill) grab an Ubiquiti EdgeRouter or Mikrotik-based Routerboard.

Bummer