PyCCo_TyPuCTo

You tried replacing both cables? One from ATT box to RAX48 and one from RAX48 to the PC? If it isn't the cable, then something else is suboptimal. Have you built your PC yourself? Did you update Mobo drivers to the latest? Have you tried connecting PC directly to ATT router before setting it to bridge mode?

Are you monitoring your bandwidth utilization at the same time you see spikes in your ping? Saturation can cause increased latency. So can CPU at 99%, the switch, the AP and the ISP router all have CPU inside of them, it would be hard to monitor them all. What type your Internet is? DSL, Cable, Fiber? Can probably connect a laptop to ISP router directly and ping Google all day to see if you have the same spikes.

Most likely one of the apps you have installed on that phone is doing that.

To answer your question CRCs increment when a corrupted packet is detected (and dropped). A ton of different things can corrupt a packet. You actually have really good SNR and attenuation values, unless these numbers fluctuate you should be good there. Are your CRCs intermittent or is it a slow trickle? If they come in in bunches, are you saturating your link during those time frames? Saturation will cause CRCs as well. Have you tried complaining to the ISP and have them run their checks remotely? There could be a bridge tap somewhere on the path between the CO and your home. They can also try and play with the DSL parameters to try and improve things, but that's granted they see something not quite right on their end, and actually care about doing something. I'd imagine residential DSL is not going to be looked at by higher tier technicians.

You can use iperf with two laptops or a PC and a laptop connected together or through a switch. If you just want to test your cables I'd say it's a good way of doing it without a proper cable tester. Edit: you can also use https://openspeedtest.com/selfhosted-speedtest Regarding the orange led link lights, it's almost surely the cables are miswired or a conductor broken inside somewhere, so they work, but only negotiate 100Mbps If you want to terminate your own cables, there are two common wire patterns called T568A and T568B. You can pick either one, but make sure you do identical on both ends of the cable. You want all your in-suite wiring to be straight through. The cross-overs are seldom used and more so for legacy equipment. Nowadays all networking gear supports auto-mdix which will detect and adjust for straight through or cross-over as needed.

Just stick with 1Gb, save your money. If you want to be able to use 5Gbps at each host you need Cat6 wiring throughout the property, as well as 10Gb switch. Depending on number of ports and PoE requirements, managed or unmanaged, etc... these puppies can get pricy

Where is local? Have you inquired with either of the two ISPs?

No, keep both WAN and LAN(DHCP) DNS settings the same.

OK, that explains it. Change Primary DNS to 1.1.1.1 and Secondary to whatever else like 9.9.9.9 or 8.8.8.8 etc. There is no need for your router to be your primary DNS server as it simply isn't one. It's not capable of resolving anything, it will forward DNS request further according to its' own DNS settings, so it's a useless messenger in the middle.

The router is supposed to advertise via DHCP whatever DNS server you statically assign, in fact both of them. Your PC is not receiving those servers, so it's using it's default gateway as DNS, since there are no other options. You should still be good as your router still has DNS servers configured. Look at your DHCP settings, something may be broken there.

Yeah, their GUI is confusing... There is a Tab called "Dynamic DNS" just under "WAN Settings" in the top left corner. That's the stuff that usually is OFF by default, unless you need it. The DNS settings are in your second picture, change those two IPs from 205.171.3.25 and 205.171.2.25 to something like 1.1.1.1 and 9.9.9.9 and save it. Your third picture, under "LAN settings" leave those alone (disabled) Now for the PC, it's getting it's IP automatically, so after you change your DNS IP on your router, issue "ipconfig /release" and "ipconfig /renew" on your PC... then your DNS settings should change and you should no longer use the ISP DNS Might need a reboot.

I did not know that, Thanks!

He's paying for 300Mbps upload, if true, only fiber fits the criteria.

How exactly is the static IP set up? I presume the setting quoted is on the router? What about PC itself? Also static? Or DHCP? Have you tried Windows "Network Troubleshooter" while the outage happens? Have you tried changing your IP to DHCP?

It's a problem on the site. You can email them saying they have a broken file.