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Bearpaddocks

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Everything posted by Bearpaddocks

  1. Thank you. Yes, $200 is an estimate of the price of the case. Not all internals, they'd be DIY. Also, supports up to EATX, doesn't HAVE to have EATX. It was more 1 like Window (for example) machine and 1 TrueNAS (for example) machine to have them on separate power supplies and different Ports. Because this was designed for my use case I only therefore I thought about my needs, and this is just proving to a teacher a market case. Thank you so much for replying! And this was merely meant to clear those parts. Thank you!
  2. Budget (including currency): $200 AUD Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: TrueNAS & Yet to be decided Windows or Linux Other details I'm just after some opinions on if anyone would consider buying or if there is a target market at all. I'm a student, making a Woodwork project of a PC case. One side is conventional, with some extra HDD and SSD bays for NAS setup if you wish. The other side is the exact same, with the MoBo upside down for mirror use of NAS or PC. Both MB trays are removable for access to cable management and upgradability. Supports up to EATX+ MB with room to spare, and can support any design you'd want with room for about 30 HDD's and about 30 SSD's in standard. Is there anyone that would consider buying something along these lines, or any suggestions to improve? Please let me know. This is a piece of market research for a teacher thinking that there is no market for an item like this. Thank you for your time. Photos of designs can be provided if you'd like more info before answering. This product will Almost guaranteed NOT come to market.
  3. As stated, the SSD is new, bought Yesterday. So unlikely that it's failing. There is no data on the drive yet because I hadn't got the chance. I had only formatted it. Have HWINFO, amazing tool, it doesn't say that it exists. Wear level is 0. Complete 0. (Nothing written ever that I know of) Wish I could connect via SATA, It's M.2. And the PC is an old Dell prebuilt with a 4th gen i7. Using windows. Will check that tool in the morning (Getting late here). Not aware of anything that could have caused it to go to Read only hence why I'm so confused. It shouldn't have ANY bad sectors. I definitely didn't tell it to go Read only. Was sort of tempting then something else came up. I tried the drive on another computer, and it worked perfectly fine NO PROBLEMS whatsoever. Read, Write, all fine. Using everything the same, just different host computer. And it's not the USB port on the prebuilt, because other USB's work perfectly fine in the same spot, and it still fails in other spots.
  4. Okay, I'm sure it's blindingly easy, but I just can't figure it out. I bought a new SSD (1tb Teamgroup) and an enclosure for it. Plugged it in and formatted, no problems. The next day, try plugging in again to actually do stuff, can't do anything because it says it's write blocked and "Read only". And I have tried figure out a way to undo it, but haven't yet found anything that will work. So if someone has an answer, thanks! That would be amazing! BTW, I would MUCH prefer to not touch the command line, not the best experiences in the past mostly from my own mistakes, and haven't got round to retrying it yet. So yeah, THANKS!
  5. Okay, so I tried to download Cinebench R20, got the file, opened it up, got to the installer, and tried to install it. It says it installed, and when I re-press the file it says it's installed it and is giving it an update, then that the update is complete. But I can't find it. Eventually found it, but it's NOT in the same spot as another computer that I have with it, and it won't start. So I gave that up for joke. Few days later: Try to install Supernova Player to play some old flash games, used the recommended process that has worked with 2 other computers, and it's not working. Repeat above but still can't find it anywhere, still not working. Gave up. In between those 2: Installed VLC & HWMoniter, worked perfectly as it was meant to and had no problems. So I have no clue with what the problem is, and if anyone has any ideas, they would be welcome. Also, this was done on a Dell prebuilt OPTIPLEX 9020 with i7-4790 @3.60GHZ with 8gb's RAM and a GT730 running the latest update of Windows 10 home PROBABLY activated. (It says it is, but I didn't and it was installed from home made USB ISO)
  6. But does the new install overwrite all the data that was on the disk before?
  7. Does anyone know if you keep all of your data when you reinstall W7 from the same Product key to the same drive because something happened to it? Also, how do you make a Bootable USB for W7 using the product key and a W10 laptop as the device making the USB booter?
  8. Standoffs don't matter as long as the board is secure. I'd suggest checking all of the mounting pressures of things, and making sure that everything is mounted again properly. Take out all the things you readily can, and make sure that they were plugged in properly to begin with. Make sure you haven't accidentally slot-shifted the graphics card. Double check the HDMI or DisplayPort cable. Make sure the monitor has power. Make sure the monitor is selecting the correct port to receive from. If that doesn't work, I may have a few more slightly more outlandish ideas later.
  9. Is that a DVI port with a HDMI next to it on the graphic card? Because then it could be the DVI cable that's gone caput. But you should upgrade that card soon anyway. The rest will live for now. Though a drive upgrade wouldn't be bad either at some point. Also, not trying to be mean, probably a good idea to give the case a good dusting inside and out.
  10. It was a third-hand computer that originally came from a school. Has a fresh version of the school W7 OS and no product key on the sticker.
  11. Is it possible to "update" it to windows 10 at all?
  12. Does anyone know if it is possible to upgrade from Windows 7 education edition, to Windows 10 home without doing a complete reinstall from USB?
  13. At the time being, if going AMD, I personally wouldn't recommend B450. Even though that is an amazing choice of motherboard (first-hand experience), it just doesn't look like there will be a decent upgrade path in the near future. If you can afford it, go the big brother with B550. To start you off, I'd recommend a cheaper SDD that is decent (Seagate, WD, Crucial... NOT SECOND-HAND) for a similar price, to be the boot SSD so it won't be slowed down by that. You can then add a hard drive later on down the track. Agree with Pc6777 on getting an older GPU for time being and get a good one later, will save you lots of strife and maybe even regret later on down the line. You don't need a case that expensive, just the cheapest compatible at your local store or on Ebay. Even second-hand if you are willing to cheap. Otherwise, I agree with the PC part picker list. But you will need a bigger PSU if you want a 30 series graphic card.
  14. So, I'm trying to recover a drive from a computer after trying to upgrade the size. Got it out, got the new one, used an external cloning drive bay to clone it. Didn't work. Put the 2 drives in separate drive bays and used Macrium Reflect to copy it. Corrupted the original drive into saying No OS Found. Took it to the local tech store (Where I got the Macrium advice from). They corrupted it further. But got some data onto the second drive, but not enough. Hooked it up to Linux (Zorin OS), and planned to drag and drop. Wouldn't appear and had 22 faults in Disk manager. Tried using EaseUS to copy for one to another via laptop. They want me to pay before I move anything. I'm not paying $70 to use it once. So now, I'm out of ideas. Anyone know of any free software that would allow me to see the drive and move selected parts of it that I choose across to another? Also, working with a 500gb (OS) drive form 2012, a new 1tb drive bought 2 weeks ago, and a 500gb 2.5" drive bought a few months ago. With an Orico cloning bay, and a HP Envy laptop.
  15. This worked for someone else a few days ago: Check that the CPU mounting pressure is correct. It solved their exact same problem.
  16. If you got nothing, not even a BIOS, then either you didn't wait long enough for it to boot up (always possible), or something is dead. Given that you tried with a different graphics card, it isn't that. It's not the PCI-E slot. Did you have it properly connected to the monitor? Was the card seated properly in the PCI-E slot (weird thought, but still)? Have you made sure you haven't accidentally knocked a VRM off? Take it out of the case and make sure there was no shorting on the back? Tried memory in different channels? Re-seated all the drives? Re-seated the CPU? Monitor powered on? Correct boot sequence? Even CPU cooler pressure? Sorry that's a lot. Just trying to run over some of the more obvious or more commonly overlooked ones that people can miss. From what you have said, my first thought is that there are a few traces on the motherboard that aren't working properly. If that's the case, then Gigabyte is normally nice and should give you a full replacement. IF that is the problem. I would try to take it back to how you booted it up successfully the first time and try that again before you go looking at the manufacturers. So try them, then get back if they do/don't work.
  17. If your PSU is not connected, then it "theoretically" has no way of grounding itself. If it is plugged in, then yes, it will go out through the grounding pin IF you have any charge in you. But by just standing on somewhere connected to the earth should be sufficient. Like a metal floor. But don't build on carpet. I think Jays2Cents did a video on this too at one point as well.
  18. To clone a drive the "traditional" way without software, the destination drive MUST be larger than the source drive. From what I'm reading here, It can now be done going from larger to smaller. Am I correct? (Though not sure why anyone would want to do that but...)
  19. You probably fried the traces on the Board leading to the CPU, the CPU itself, or the plug on the board. Either way, you'll probably have to replace something a bit expensive.
  20. Did you do the same with your M.2? With it not crashing while doing Cinebench: once it loads all the pieces it wants, it barely touches your drives. But just having the OS running is bouncing around all over the places of your drives. Just the same as playing a game.
  21. Faulty power button? Gonna seem random, unplug the power switch from the mobo then try to turn it off. Then try to short the power pins with a screwdriver if you are willing to. That should turn it back on "Manually". If that works, unplug system from wall, and THEN reinstall the connecter.
  22. I believe it should be. Don't know for sure. Never really looked. As I said, I don't use them. It was just a thought.
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