Rhotis

So I somewhat recreated this. Some things Linus didnt tell me and Im kind of miffed about LOL 1- The screws to the 2 200mm fans that come with the case will not work with the Noctua. The Cooler Master fans are thinner. I did not look into this before hand which is my fault I know. This means you either have to go buy screws somewhere that will work because Noctua does not provide long screws or you have to use the rubber thingies. 2 - The rubber thingies do NOT fit through the holes in the H500 ARGP case. For some reason Cooler master made those holes smaller than standard fan screw holes AND did not clean out the punch through or left on purpose the punch threw on the other side of the case. Really wish Linus had said more than a joke about how tight getting those rubber mounts in were because that was a big task. I had to go buy an awl and reem out the holes to allow the rubber mount thingies to fit but I also had to take a screw driver and a hammer and chisel off the inside of the holes that were beveled (for lack of the proper word) from the factory. This is not a full new build but a GPU upgrade that forced me to change cases as on paper the Noctua Asus RTX 3070 should have fit my old case it just did not work. Saw this video randomly while I was case searching and decided to recreate it. Specs CPU - AMD 3800X CPU cooler - My 9 year old Noctua NH D14 that has been put through 4 rig upgrades. Mobo - Gygabyute X570 Aurus Elite Mem - Crucual Ballistix 2x 32gig PC3200 GPU - Asus Noctua RTX 3070 PSU Corsair RM850X Drives - 1 Samsung 500 gig 980 pro 1 Samsung 980 1TB Case - Cooler Master H500 aRGB Fans - 1 NF a12 rear 2 NFa14 top 2 NF a20 front To be bought - GPU support bracket. Cant find my old puget systems acrilic one I know is in a box somewhere so I will have to buy something new. The GPU sag is real in this thing. Yes my cable management is horrid. I will be vinyling the tempered glass window because I really do not like glass and I will be looking into if the fab shop at work can make me a solid simple aluminum side panel but that is yet to be determined. I REALLY wish they would sell a simple plain metal side panel for this. I would spend 100 bucks on that if Cooler Master just sold it. I will end up having to hope an engineer at work will help me design one instead haha.

Further information. Its not seeing the drive from the installer because the installer is not have the intel 11th gen RAPID drivers. For both the original SSD and my samsung 970 pro if I use the windows 10 install USB and another USB to install the RAPID drivers the installer now sees both drives. Just incase any one else ever runs into something similar.

So I tried installing windows 10 over on the samsung 970 pro in the acer nitro 5 laptop. UEFI sees the drive but the installer does not. Going into command prompt using diskpart and list disk and the only disk showing is my original USB windows 10 install drive. I tried putting the Acer OEM SSD back in to just install windows 10 on that (do not want windows 11). This gets the same result. The laptop will boot to windows 11 but booting from USB the installer does not see the drive, diskpart does not see the drive. The UEFI on this thing is truly bare bones. No place to even make sure AHCI is on about all you can do is change boot order and turn secure boot off and on (tried both) and turn fastboot off and on (tried both). Ive just never encountered anything like this before. Anyone have any ideas?

So I have not had a laptop that was not company issued in 20 years. Decided to replace one PC with a laptop. I bought a an517-54-79l1 intending to take the nvme m.2 Samsung 970 pro with OS on it and just install that into the laptop and my 960 Evo as the secondary just like the other computer was. Upon swapping out the drives I get the error "Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart". Automatic repair does not work. UEFI does see the drives and identifies them properly. Switching back to the drive that came with the laptop and it will boot. On the 970 Pro is just my windows 10 install. If is not the OEM OS so I can transfer it between computers. Putting the samsung drives back into the desktop and they boot fine (desktop is a built PC gigabyte mobo) Have tried with just the 970 in as well as the 970 and 960 as well as the 970 and original. I am wondering if this laptop will only boot with the original drive as the boot drive? What else could be going wrong here?

So I built a new PC. Nice AMD 3800X based system. Had the parts sitting for a while and never got around to building. Finally did tonight and Chrome intermitenly works (usually in the not working state). It acts as if there is no internet connection Edge works fine. The connection is fine. Ethernet not wifi. I changed the DNS settings to googles like I normally do but did so as a "lets see if this fixes it and I haven't don't it yet" thing. Ive tried clearing all the cache etc. Never seen this before

Thanks for the reply Yeah, the Surge strip will prolly be replaced. It is a decent one though. Its an actual APC branded surge protector that I forget the stats on it but I remember the rating was pretty high. I dont know I can trust it to stay going though so it will be replaced. PSU - Little harder money wise to pony up. Not been my month. My car caught on fire as I pulled into a parking lot beginning of year. So far, it seems 2020 has something against me lol.

So quick hits, Heard a pop, PC died. During TS noticed the power cable itself had a split in it at the 3 prong male end. Put a new cable on and PC works. So the PC works but Im concerned what could have caused this. THe surge protector never waivered. Monitor, speakers and phone charger are on that strip and they never blinked. I did not have to reset the surge protector (APC true surge protector not a simple power strip, forget the rating). The cable was rather old, a good 3-5 years older than the PC which I built 3 years ago. PC specs in question i7 5820k Asus X99-A USB 3.1 EVGA GTX 970 Corsair low profile memory 2 samsung evo 850 SSDs EVGA 650w gold rated PSU Corsair H115i cooler My big concern is should I be worried about the PSU. Heart sank when I heard that pop. I recently bought a Noctua NH-14 with 2011 kit to switch back to air cooling as I have had a few nightmares in the last few months about the AIO loop leaking (its fine). Had not gotten around to switching to the Noctua and I was sure my procrastination just did me in lol. Any thoughts on what would cause that power cable to split and blow out like that would be appreciated

Ok so hook it up (as intended) heh (but not with those fans, preference I have 2 140mm Fractal Venturi PWM in the front now). So one more question. So no fans are going to be plugged into the CPU header, so have to turn the freakout off in BIOS no biggie. So when the system starts though if this is hooked through the corsair link system how does the pump and fans start pre windows load? Do they just go 12v max or?

Specifically about the H115i as that is the likely cooler I will be getting. Always been phobic about water cooling so big leap for me here. Rig its going in is a 5820k currently air cooled in a fractal R5. Some questions 1 - The pump. Ive read conflicting views on whether to hook this to the PWM header or just send it straight to 12v power. Survey says? 2 - I intend to go push/pull intake from the front. Will the unit come with enough long screws to do this or will I have to buy more? 3 - Running push pull (so 4 fans), the fans should I split them down to 1 header, should I connect them to a sata powered pwm hub (have one already so wont need to buy one) and put that on one CPU header or run them split to 2 headers. 4 - The phobia setting in. Should I just mount some shag carpet on the wall behind it so if it leaks and spits fire out the PSU I just get a total loss on the house or situate it away from curtains and no wall mounted rug and just lose the rig ? (that one is sarcasm guys dont flip out hehe)

That did the trick, danka.

Asus X99-a USB 3.1 mobo, 5820k CPU, Phanteks TCdx12 cooler running win 10 64 bit. Trying to get Aus AI Suite going but its not installing. Looked around a little and cant find an actual answer so if anyone has experience with this would be much appreciated. When I try to launch any of the apps from that download from ASUS they do not run.

I love my R5 for my latest build. Its a glorious case. Easy as can be to build in.

Everyone should have an SSD because a quiet fast system is a good system. I would love to put this in a new build I am planning.

Building this tomorrow (providing the motherboard and case are delivered as they should be). I went with the tc12dx because I dont like water cooling (Its my phobia and I embrace it lol) so am air cooling and went with the tc12dx because its small enough I should be able to still get the GPU in the first slot and it wont overhang ram slots by much (LPX memory anyway if it does a tad). The closer I get to build time though the more I am second guessing if this cooler is enough to get 4.2 comfortably off the 5820k and still keep good temps. Anyone gots any experience with this setup?

If you are building it simply for yourself thats awesome. If you are hoping to sell it, that is also awesome and I hope it kicks ass and you can sell some. You will need to realize though its a niche within a niche within a niche market. You will be targeting people that 1 - build their own rigs, 2 - are interested (ie have the cash) for a truly custom case and 3 - want that custom case to be made of wood. So it will be a pretty small market you will be working with. That said though, that market is the type of people that if it looks high quality and high function they will have the cash and no reservations of buying them.