Paul_Johnson

currently i'm planning on just running the pc without the LED lights until I can afford to replace that HUB that I broke. until then I would like to know more about it because I've never seen it before.

ok only other plugs i need help with are the LED plugs for the three fans attached to my radiator. the three power plugs to the fans are plugged into a power cord that goes to the PSU....but each fan has this seperate plug for LED lights. there was this hub looking device that they plugged into in my previous pc case but i accidentally broke it so now i have nothing to plug my LED fan lights into. i have never seen this device before. i did take a picture of it before deciding to mess with it incase i broke it. here is the picture. anyone know what this is called? now that i dont have it, how else would i plug these LED leads into my PC?

cool thanks! ok so these plugs were not plugged into anything in my previous case because there was enough case fan plugs on the motherboard for my case fans. :)

ok i took out all the parts in a desktop pc of mine and im putting all my parts in a new case. anyway im almost done reassembling my pc but i have a few plugs left over that i cant remember where they go...assuming if they were plugged into anything to begin with lol: i have a few plugs on my liquid cpu cooler that i dont recognize. all the other plugs that are attached to my cpu liquid cooler is plugged into the motherboard and a chord that leads to the PSU. what are these plugs for? if it helps to answer my question, my liquid CPU cooler is the NZXT Kracken Z73 360mm LCS with an LCD display.

I had an interesting experience with my internet today. I typically get up to 200-300mbps download and an average of 15mbps upload with an average ping of 11-18ms. Today, when I woke up, half the websites I typically visit wouldn't load. And after running the network troubleshooter when you go to network sharing center, it said my DNS server wasn't responding. I then used my iphone's internet to google how to deal with this, and it led me to cleaning my browsing history, checking the same websites with different browsers(and all browsers had the same issues), and also to reboot my modem by unplugging it for a minutue, then plugging it back in. Nothing worked at all until about 30 minutes ago when things were STILL not working, but unplugging my modem for the 5th time today and plugging it back in solved it. I've never had this big of an internet malfuction. Any idea what else I should have done today? I feel like I just got lucky with the 5th attempt to reboot my modem.

oh ok, thx.

ok, thanks. now that I know that an RGP header is a different part, I was able to just google "RGB header' and learn what that is. Also, Digideath that's pretty cool, I didn't know there was such a thing as an m.2 wifi card. This pc I have coming in the mail with this motherboard is replacing the PC that I currently have. So is it a bad idea(for any reason) to take the pciex1 wifi card out of my current pc and put it in the new pc when it comes in the mail, or is an m.2 wifi card so much better that it's worth spending the money on it?

This is a new motherboard that's part of a computer I'm waiting to come in the mail. I ended up with this motherboard due to budget restrictions: ASUS PRIME Z490-P - WiFi, ARGB Header (1), USB 3.2 Ports (4 Type-A), M.2 Slot (3) My question is about the part that says "wifi argb header". I understand the rest of it, just not this. Does it mean the motherboard has built in wifi, or that I can install a wifi card or something? For example, a motherboard I'm using the the PC I currently have, does not have onboard wifi, and I installed a pciex1 wifi card in order to connec to the wifi network in my house. But I never referred the pciex1 slot I have that wifi card plugged into as a "wifi argb header". I just called it a pciex1 slot. Hope my question makes sense.

yeah i'll be selling the parts to my old rig before they're too outdated.

what's going on is that i figured out how to get an rtx 3090 despite it being sold out everywhere. i was considering building a second pc instead of rebuilding the one i currently have and have talked about on this forum but i really don't want to deal with the hassle of assembling a new PC...and my cable management skills suck lol. so i found out i can kill two birds with one stone by going to ibuypower.com and ordering a custom rig that has the exact 3090 that i want(asus tuf 24GB OC RTX 3090). and if i order it today it'll ship in as early as 3-4 weeks from today. made this thread due to not understanding 10th gen cpus and radiators as much as i'd like to. thanks to this thread i know that the liquid cooling solution i'm considering is good enough and understand now what i'm reading when reading about boost clock speeds, and that i can save some money getting the 10850k instead of the 10900k. been learning a lot of stuff on this forum. thanks guys!

so am i correct to assume i'd get the same answer if they were using 10850k?(i hear they're easier to find)

oh ok, i was just misunderstanding the benchmark then

i see a lot of youtube videos where folks are playing AAA games at 4k max graphics settings while using a 3090 GPU and a 10900k for a CPU at 5GHz. considering 3.7Ghz is the fastest i've seen a stock 10900k then i'm assuming they're over clocking. so what cooling solution does someone need to keep their 10900k from being damaged with the cpu being over locked to 5Ghz? would the MZXT kraken z73 360mm be enough?

Budget (including currency): 2500.00(PC case, monitor, keyboard/mouse are things I already have. Using LGCX as monitor and plan to use it for the future build) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: When it comes to gaming, I want to be able to do 4k, 60hz, 4-4-4 well if that's even possible. For everything else: Solidworks(CAD), Reaper(DAW), Cyberpunk 2077, Half Life Alyx and other high graphics games on VR and traditional FPS games with maxed graphics on 4k. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): resolution/refresh rate: 4k, 60hz When I'm going to buy: starting from Feb, 2021 until around this time next year I'll slowly be purchasing one part at a time, most likely 1-2 parts per month to stay within my monthly budget Might take less time than this to get all my parts needed because this'll be more of a PC rebuild than a new build from scratch. PC parts I'm planning on getting for a rebuild: CPU: undecided CPU cooling: undecided(replacing my all in one liquid cooler with an air cooler). I use a gaming headset so I don't 'need' the silence that comes with liquid cooling. Motherboard: undecided(replacing it with a PCIE 4.0 motherboard if possible, and I want my new motherboard to have built in wifi so I don't need to use a wifi pcie card anymore) GPU: RTX 3090 or 3080(which version of those is undecided but I most likely will get the TUF version unless that turns out to be a bad idea)-----(my GPU will be on a separate budget. Budget will be 1,600.00 max) GPU cooling: plan on just using the air cooled heatsink that traditionally comes attached to GPUs. PSU: undecided(I'm hoping to keep my 850watt 80+gold modular PSU but am trying to keep an eye on 3090 based PC review builds on youtube videos to see if 850watts is enough for my future rebuild) PC case: undecided(but considering purchasing a test bench instead of a pc case. I just think having one instead of a PC case would look really cool, and make it easier for me to tinker. If this is a bad idea, please tell me why.) I'm asking for advice on the "undecided" parts on this list. What do ya'all recommend, and why do you recommend them? Also, I ran into some confusion when looking at motherboards on newegg and tigerdirect. I'm having a hard time finding intel motherboards with PCIE 4.0, and that led me to reading an article that intel is somewhat dropping the ball on this, and/or possibly reserving pcie 4.0 for a next gen CPU compatible motherboards. If any of ya'all have more info on what's going on there, I'm all ears. Only reason why I'm sticking with the intel route is because if I go the AMD route, I would have to build a new PC from scratch instead of rebuilding the one I already have. I'm currently under the impression that rebuilding the one I have will be cheaper than building a new AMD PC from scratch. If I'm wrong, please let me know and explain why. I really don't care if my PC is intel or AMD, just as long as it does the things I mentioned above that I want it to do. Here's my current build: CPU: i78700k CPU cooling: Fractal Design Celsius S24 240mm all in one cpu liquid/water cooler Motherboard: MSI-Z370-A PRO GPU: 8GB 1070ti GPU cooling: just the air cooler attached to the GPU RAM: 64GB DDR4 ram PSU: 850watt 80+gold C drive: m.2nvme to keep OS on D drive: 5tb sata HDD E drive: 4TB sata SDD pciex1 card#1: a wifi card pciex1 card#2: a wireless adapter card thing for the wireless kit I use on my cosmos elite VR headset

lol I'll try that and see what happens. I knew there was likely a simpler solution staring me in the face.

I have to run some of my games at 1080p or 1440p rez in order to keep my PC from crashing while I'm waiting to upgrade my gpu from 1070ti to 3070,80, or 90 gpu. Until then, my PC basically becomes a space heater for my room, especially when I'm using my HTC vive cosmos elite headset I recently got. I need to know if this is a stupid idea, and if so, if there's a more practical solution. My idea: You know those hoses or conduits(not sure what the proper term is) you see coming out of a laundry dryer that go into a wall in order to eject the heat out of the house instead of heating up the laundry room in your house? What if I did that with my computer? I was thinking of creating something that covers the back fans of my PC case where all the hot air comes out and channel it into this conduit. I would then open my window partially and place a wooden board I would cut to fill up the open space that would create, and then attached the other end of the conduit to the board where I would have a hole cut into it to attach the end of the conduit to. It's a very cheap solution. A bit bulky but could serve as a cheap "bandaid" to my situation while I'm waiting months and months for a 3000 series card to be available to purchase at normal prices(vs scalping prices). Here's an image of what I'm talking about: http:// Is this a stupid idea? And if so, what's a more practical solution? My PC specs are: CPU: i78700k CPU cooling: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16835352029?Item=N82E16835352029 motherboard: MSI z370-a pro RAM: 64GB GPU: 1070ti(no liquid cooling, just the air cooling heatsink that's traditionally part of GPUs) PSU: 850watt 80+gold C Drive: m.2nvme D drive: 5TB HDD E drive: 4TB SDD

dang typos! I'm sorry guys, I meant to type 1070ti not 2070ti, lol. Just fixed that typo. I have a 1070ti

Since I plan on going from my 1070ti to a 3080 or 3090 whenever I can actually find one available, I'll be completely skipping over the rtx 2080ti that I originally was going to get "when I can afford it" but by the time I could afford one, the 3000 series cards launched. So in the end, which 2080ti ended up being the best? I'm talking about the kind of 2080ti's that folks never needed to overclock, didn't have many issues and just worked. I'm not shopping for a 2080ti, I'm just curious since I'll never use one.

yeah, i'm starting to see the logic in all of this. I'm gonna go pull my foot out of my mouth now lol

oh ok. glad i brought it here then. thanks!

yeah exactly. I was just a little confused because you can pre order just about anything out there but for some reason you can't preorder the 3000 series at every website I've found except this one. I thought it was a little strange and wanted to do the smart thing and share it here before I do it.

that's exactly my point.

https://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/search.asp?keywords=rtx+3080 Instead of waiting until they're in stock before they let you pay for a GPU, you can pay for a GPU and then waif for it to be in stock with them. Probably will still end up waiting several months anyway. What do ya'all think of this?

I have a list of websites that I periodically check for an available 3090 or 3080 every now and then. I know it'll probably be several months until I can get one thanks to scalpers. But actual customers of these cards have been fighting back so hard, leaving reviews that discourage folks from buying it because it's way over priced(on amazon anyway) that Amazon is now censoring bad reviews. I tried to write a review on a 3090 to warn people this is a scam, and now you can't leave reviews on these cards unless you've actually purchased one. So basically, scalpers, and those unfortunate enough to fall for them can be the only ones who can leave a review. Try to leave a review and you get this message: Amazon has noticed unusual reviewing activity on this product. Due to this activity, we have limited this product to verified purchase reviews. Thought ya'all might find this amusing.

I pre ordered the Oculus Quest 2 and I'm considering pre ordering this cable as well for whenever I want to link my VR to the pc: https://www.oculus.com/quest-2/accessories/ However, it's a type c to type c connector, and I haven't seen any of the different 3080 or 3090 designs with a type C port in the back. I only see display ports and HDMI ports. So I was thinking of just improvising by getting this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Warmstor-Adapter-Converter-Support-Charging/dp/B073H1QVJZ/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=type+c+to+type+a+adapter&qid=1601072718&sr=8-16 it seems like a pretty simple solution but just wanted to check here in this forum first if this is a bad idea for any reason...or if I'm wrong and there really IS a 3080 or 3090 with a type c connector. also, thanks everyone for answering my stupid noob questions in other posts I've made in this forum. I've been learning a LOT in this forum! WOOT