Pratham Bhatnagar

GPT

One point I forgot in my first reply that might interest you...the reason it rarely matters is because DRAM on a consumer SSD is used for metadata, like mapping/addressing, specifically to be faster than going to the copy on the NAND/flash. This is particularly true with small I/O, e.g. 4K. So therefore latency is the primary concern more than bandwidth. What you typically see is that a single drive model that comes over time with two different DRAM configurations, i.e. DDR3 and DDR4, that the true latency - this is the latency calculated by looking at effective clock rate and latencies (e.g. CAS) - tends to be around the same. The manufacturer will pick what's cheapest or available in many cases and may vary the amount of DRAM which is a different discussion. However, from the perspective of the consumer/user, the primary difference to you will be as I said above: power consumption and relatedly, thermals.

P5: fastest of the bunch, but tends to run hot. An 8-channel controller needs 1TB to really stretch its wings.
 
A2000: good middle-of-the-road drive. It's only 4 channels but it has a good consumer controller and DRAM, plus good TLC. You lose out on sequentials and it's not ideal for heavier workloads.
 
P1: QLC-based and strictly a budget drive. I would not buy QLC at 500GB.
 
Q5: see above for P1.

Newer DRAM, such as DDR4 vs. DDR3, and low power DRAM, as in LPDDR4 vs. DDR4, will simply use less power.

Well the p5 is the best drive of the bunch, but if you want to save a buck id  get a p1.
 
Also look at dramless drives like the p2 or sn550. About the same as the QLC drives you have listed. There is much more to a drive than dram.

It doesn't matter, it's absolutely irrelevant.
 
The type of memory used will be entirely up to the flash controller ... some controllers support only DDR3 or DDR3L (lower voltage DDR3), others may support DDR4.
Either way ... use of DDR4 doesn't mean it's better than DDR3 because you don't know the bus bandwidth and you don't know the frequency and you don't know HOW the memory is used.
A controller may use DDR4 at 800 Mhz other controller may use DDR3 at 600-1333 Mhz ... both will probably have bigger bandwidth than needed.
 
 

Oh I'm so sorry, I just saw I had missed your reply.
Not sure if you've made up your mind already, or are still looking for more info.
 
The endurance comes from writing lots of data to an SSD, which games don't really do. The main disadvantage with the QLC drives is that once you fill up the drive more (say 75% and up) it becomes (much) slower.

Here is a simple comparison of the probably most important aspects of the drives (except random read/write, because Crucial didn't list this):

The reason there is a question mark with the P2/P5 on QLC/TLC is because they don't list this spec themselves and in a review I see Crucial has said they might switch specs later, so even though it's a TLC drive now, they might switch to QLC (but the P5 would likely stay TLC, according to the review).
 
The TBW (Terabytes written, AKA its endurance) is the largest difference between these drives. The large different between the P5 and P2 spark a bit of suspiciounn in me about the P2 being QLC.
It kind of depends on what you're buying the drive for, but I wouldn't bother with the P1 or P2. The Kingston A2000 is similar in price and better in all aspects.
 
The P5 doesn't seem too great either, so I would suggest looking if the Seagate Barracuda 510 is an option too. Sometimes the Samsung 970 EVO (not Plus) can be had for good prices too.

If you can afford 500GB/512GB, it would be the faster option. I recommend Crucial MX500, as they are quite fast, and their prices are fair.

Nope. Nitrosense is Acer's (= laptops manufacturer) own software. Which is what I was saying in the previous post. Laptops are really, really locked systems to prevent manufacturer having to fix user created issues.

1050 Ti is only half as good as the minimum required GTX 780 so you can't expect a good performance out of it. Even less so when it's the laptop version.

All the cool people are doing it these days.
 
Welcome to the cult.
 

ONE OF US, ONE OF US

Why many people have bird with moving head on their profile picture on LTT forum.

Why many people have bird with moving head on their profile picture on LTT forum.

Intel at the high-end(i9-10900k) performs better than AMD and has better single threaded performance so far. But got low and mid teir systems AMD is the way to go.

If the system runs all your programs good there’s no need to worry

Commit charge has to do with memory.
 
FB usage is bus usage, the link between the card and board. Aka PCIe usage.
 
I believe VID is for Nvidia cards, has to do with their video encoder.
 
 
Google will explain everything you asked.
 
The only thing that matters is temperature. Which will probably be high because it's a laptop. You can watch your GPU mhz but it doesn't matter really, if you see drops, it's probably thermal throttling.
 
What do you mean there is no max temperature? Do you mean for recording data? Use HWInfo64.

I don't remember if afterburner has an average or peak core temp. Just look in the settings.
 
That's normal for a laptop. A lot of people repaste laptops or use liquid metal to reduce temps. My wife's laptop shoots up to the 80s whenever there is a load on the system, not even gaming. Its safe for them, just not ideal. Many laptops thermal throttle constantly while gaming.
 
How old is the laptop? It might be wise to disassemble it to clean out dust. And if you have some good thermal paste, repaste it while you are in there.
 

Laptops are notorious for high temps. Laptop cooling pads etc can help, even slightly elevating the base can improve airflow. If you have fan control, you can crank the fan to max. The CPU will protect itself from damage though.

Agreed , 87C is a bit toasty..  and the laptop will throttle at that point.
 
I can't play on my laptop at all without a *5fan* cooling pad...
 
But with the pad I can play demanding games for hours without significant issues.

As far as I know, the SSD should be able to work with your laptop regardless of power consumption. Your SSD consume way less power at normal operation. The power rating is just an indication on how much the power SSD will draw at burst speed.
 
You can try to unplug the SATA connector from your HDD. It should be able to detach from the HDD.

You shouldn't worry about that detail. All SATA drive will work on any SATA port, regardless of the power rating. 

Try opening the files with notepad or a text viewer.
If it's a proper zip file, it will have the characters  PK at the beginning.
 
Try another recovery software, that's all I can suggest.

Honestly I have no experience with bitlocker since I don't use Windows much these days. I suppose it's possible that the decryption process didn't complete, and so some of the data is still encrypted. If it were my computer, and that happened to me, then I'd probably try turning bitlocker back on, then turn it off again so that I could ensure that the decryption process completed.