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Gmoney57

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About Gmoney57

  • Birthday July 4

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Xeon E5-2650 v3 10C 20T @3.0 GHz
  • Motherboard
    Intel X99
  • RAM
    T-Force Delta 24 GB @2666 MHz
  • GPU
    MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT
  • Storage
    1TB SanDisk SSD
  • PSU
    850 W PSU
  • Cooling
    LEPA Exllusion 240
  • Sound
    Logitech X540 5.1 Channel
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • Laptop
    Lenovo T520

Gmoney57's Achievements

  1. Sorry for not updating this thread for a while, I've been busy with school and family. I made a TON of progress. I really have no idea why though... I picked out the motherboard I wanted and wanted to test the PSU before I bought the motherboard to be sure that was the problem. I removed the PSU and tested the voltages of every single pin with a multimeter just to be sure they were outputting the right voltages, and they were. So I put the unit back into my PC and reconnected everything and re-cable managed everything. [NOTE: I removed some adapter that converted 2 AMP connectors to a PCI-E connector, which I was using for my graphics card.] I decided to give it one last go and tried installing Windows 10 again, and to my surprise, it actually worked. I was scared because it hasn't worked for a long while. The SSD was still hitting 100% quite frequently but never crashed from it as it did before. I researched a couple more articles and one of them said to change my PC's power plan from "Balanced" to "High Performance." It also said for me to edit the High Performance Plan (by clicking "Change plan settings" then click "Change advanced power settings") and disable the "Link state power management. " The disk has only touched 100% once or twice since and that was while it was downloading two games and a Windows update simultaneously and it was only at 100% for less than a second. Something to note is that after installing Steam I would always get a "DISK WRITE ERROR" when trying to install the first game. I fixed that issue after I cleared the download cache in the Steam settings. Haven't had a problem since so hopefully it holds out just fine until I work up enough money to afford a new motherboard and PSU. Fingers crossed
  2. Thank you, this is very appreciated. Are only server-grade boards able to be paired with this processor?
  3. Underclocking the RAM actually cause this corrupt-looking windows "logo" to go away while the installer was loading up. Before, as it was loading up, there were these 3 or 4 choppy blue lines the name color as the Windows logo above them. After I underclocked the RAM to 2133 they never came back. The installer still doesn't want to install though.
  4. I was afraid that was the case. Do you have any recommendations for a new motherboard? And could the power supply have damaged the motherboard or is it definitely just not paired properly?
  5. Yeah I just tried reinstalling Windows using the Media Creation Tool since the October Update recently came out on both 2133 MHz and 2000 MHz and both got the same outcome, other than i actually got this screen instead for some unknown reason. I clicked "OK" and tried rescanning but it still couldn't find anything and the same window popped up. Then I tried reflashing an older version of Windows from an ISO I still had but it said it couldn't be verified from Microsoft and that I had to get the updated version.
  6. Yeah I was thinking it was either a mobo or power supply issue and some people have told me power supply and others have told me mobo, and of course there's multiple things I've tried elsewhere that never worked so it's really confusing.
  7. Yeah I've tried running 1 and 2 sticks at once before with no difference. I can try it again though because it's been weird the whole way through. I haven't tried underclocking it but it would make a bit of sense to do so since I think the maximum speed the CPU can handle is 2133 MHz. Something I've also tried in the past with a few different versions of Windows is to install it on a flash drive so I could just boot to that. I've used 3 or 4 programs like Rufus to try to flash it on 5 or 6 different flash drives and all has failed.
  8. I've been having issues with Windows becoming corrupt ever since a few months after I built it. Originally when I first built the PC, I was using a 1 TB Seagate Hard Drive that later had corruption issues and eventually died. Usually, I would be able to use Windows for about a week before it became corrupted, but now I can't even install it on the new SSD I bought for it. At first, I thought it was the graphics drivers that were having issues but it soon became apparent that back when I could still get Windows to install, that it would almost immediately become corrupted, sometimes words in menus cut off or icons not showing up (and sometimes menus and searches not opening at all). I had fought with it for months and searched for anything I could that might be related to the issue. I tried everything everyone else tried, yet no good results. I eventually came upon this post that said that my SSD might be too big and that it worked just fine when they tried installing Windows on a smaller SSD. I got excited because it was something that I hadn't come across or heard yet so I rushed to buy a smaller SSD (128 GB Kingston M.2 SSD [not sure of the exact model]). As soon as it got here I threw it into my system and ran the Windows installer. Nothing. My Sandisk SSD still showed up, but no M.2. So I went ahead and dove into that mess too, with still no solution that fixed my problem(s). I know it's not the Sandisk SSD because when I put it in my laptop Windows installs just fine and runs perfectly, with no corruption. I haven't tested the Kingston SSD in my laptop. I'm beginning to think it's either a faulty mobo or the sketchy power supply. It might be supplying too much or too little power, but I don't know for sure and might test the SATA power rails with a multimeter later... One time I attempted putting my laptop's hard drive (that was having no prior issues) in my PC and the hard drive started making weird whining and clicking noises and malfunctioned and went corrupt as did my SSD. I put the hard drive back into my laptop and reinstalled windows and it's worked fine in my laptop ever since. In the past, I've also received BSODs from "CRITICAL PROCESS DIED" to "MEMORY_MANAGEMENT" and a variety of others, and each solution I found either fixed it only for a short while or didn't fix it at all. Here are some of the things I've tried: Getting new SATA cables Plugging SATA cables into each port on my mobo Using different SATA power connectors from my power supply Unplugging all peripherals and USB drives (other than the installation drive and ethernet cable) Swapping out my RAM configuration Only using one stick of RAM (tried all three) in each of the slots Running the Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool multiple times (all results came back normal) Scanning the SanDisk SSD with various tools like EaseUS Scanning the SanDisk SSD with the built-in error-checking tool (sometimes it had errors, other times it didn't) Using all SFC commands multiple times Using all DISM commands multiple times Editing the registry multiple times Using a local account instead of my Microsoft one Signing in with my Microsoft account AFTER I created a local account Wiping the SanDisk SSD Manually creating new partitions on the SSD Removing all bloatware with Windows10Debloater-master Installing Windows 10 using my laptop (worked perfectly fine until I put it in my PC [worked for a few minutes before becoming corrupted again]) Upgrading to Windows 10 from Windows 7 Ultimate Plugging my PC straight into the wall rather than the power strip Changing my GPU to a 1050 ti I had from before Resetting BIOS to original defaults Changing BIOS settings to RAID (in an attempt to find the M.2) Changing BIOS settings to UEFI only Updating BIOS version Clearing CMOS Replacing CMOS battery Reinstalling Windows multiple times Installing Windows 7 Home, Windows 7 Ultimate, Windows 10 Home, Windows 10 Pro, Windows 10 Enterprise (all of which became corrupt shortly after installation, if the installation was able to complete) Installed each version mentioned above more than once with Rufus Using both the official Windows installer and Rufus on multiple different brands and sizes of USB drives (at least 10 different drives) Installing Ubuntu (had multiple errors while installing packages but didn't list any packages that were in a broken state, and then the installer crashed [it appeared to install but after I restarted it wasn't able to boot]) And many more things... Hardware List: Intel OEM LGA 2011v3 Mobo Intel Xeon E5-2650 V3 10 C 20 T @2.3 GHz MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT MECH OC Sandisk X400 1 TB SSD (SATA) Kentek 850 Watt PSU T-Force Delta 24GB (3 x 8 GB) @2666 MHz Does anyone know what else I can try to hopefully get this to work (both the M.2 SSD and the Widows corruption issue)? It's been a crazy life with this PC so pls helppppp
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