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Jpe24

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Everything posted by Jpe24

  1. Well, this year was crazy, I was lucky to grab one 3070 in December for a relative good price. I changed the case, upgrade the memory, better AiO, changed the motherboard, but man, I could not be happier!
  2. Just FYI: Support as of right now is kinda hit or miss, don’t count on it, iCue and Aura integration is kinda broken since the beginning of the year. Old components work using the standalone Aura Sync but newer components need Armoury Crate, and Armoury Crate and iCue don’t play along too well.
  3. I solved mine by connecting it to the PSU. I hacked an old micro-USB and solder some male jumper wires to ground and 5v and connect it to the floppy drive power connector (also knows as Berg Connector). At least in my Corsair and EVGA PSU both have this connector. If you really want to use an internal USB header you can make a DIY usb splitter using again some female-male jumper wires. Just make sure your devices only use one USB port (one row of pins) otherwise it won’t work. I use it to split one header for my AiO and Corsair Node Pro and it works I attached a photo of my DIY USB splitter, my hacked micro USB cable and my build with the internal display If you need more information about the wiring please let me know
  4. How high are your temps? Personally I have a Omen X 2S and that thing goes instantly to 90c under load, I wouldn’t push it too far since the machine overheats easily
  5. It seems that it dependent of the MoBo, In my B365 I can control the RGB header (4 Pin) seamlessly using iCue, that’s how I used to sync my AiO pump before changing it to a H100i.
  6. Possibly the last update until the 3070 launches: Sold the i3 and got an i7 9700f brand new with a good price ($200 dlls) 3D printed clear cable combs And finally, added a display from a raspberry to be used as GPU bracket + monitoring display.
  7. Hi! i was thinking in purchasing a small HDMI display to mount it inside my case. (pic attached) I’m planning to 3D print a housing and place it bellow the GPU so the display doesn’t look out of place. The video cable will be straight forward, I’m going to drill out a hole in one of my PCI-E slot cover to route the cable to be connected to my GPU. Sadly for the power cable I’m totally out of USB ports (both internal and external), so I was thinking in hacking a molex or sata power connector to make a microUSB to Molex/SATA and connect it directly to the PSU. Will it be safe to do this? or should I add a voltage regulator between the display and the PSU?
  8. Here you go, decided to take some measurements for you: A1: it seems to fit, space for the extra cables will be tight, if you are using a modular PSU you are good to go, if not you should consider in using one of the drive cages for the extra cables A2: 30cm is the max, any card > 30cm will interfere with the front fans, you could get a thinner front fan and get more space.
  9. I have a base model and the experience playing Warzone was quite good. i have two tips for you: Disable TurboBoost using ThrottleStop, I was skeptical at first but temps dropped like crazy after disabling it, it sounds counter intuitive but frames go up. Tilt your MacBook towards you, leaving a gap in the back to allow it to breathe, I have this low profile stand and it works amazingly
  10. It depends how it is wired, at least on a DeepCool Case I built for a friend the SATA power cable has a lable that says to unplug it if controlling the LED Strip using the MoBo. if your fans has an RGB/Fan hub you need to plug it, if they are daisy chained you could probably only use the ARGB header
  11. Looking at Amazon I found these DeepCool RGB Fans it seems to be meet your criteria quite well. i don’t have any experience with these fans specifically but I built a PC for a friend using a DeepCool case with included aRGB fans and they perform nice. If you want to go for aRGB, I can recommend you purchasing a Corsair Node Pro, you can use adapters to fit other brands of aRGB accessories to the Node Pro so you don’t have to be married with Corsair. Alternatively, if you want to go cheap and DIY, you can use an Arduino as an aRGB controller, there’s plenty of opensource projects out there!
  12. Asking for a friend too, I have my fans mounted as intakes and the only exhausts are the radiator and the GPU (a blower card), it seems to be fine but I dunno if it is the correct way.
  13. Maybe the MasterCooler Q300 series, it seems to fit your criteria The Q300p includes the handles OOTB while the Q300l has optional handles that can be mounted in the corners or the top of the case
  14. Update: The upgrade to the Corsair 220t was a nice one, my GPU backplate is arriving next week, but overall this machine now looks sexy af. All fans except the radiation fan are in push configuration, GPU and CPU temps are overall nicer (10c cooler overall) than my previous case wonder if it because of the case itself or the orientation of the fans.
  15. Yes! Sadly white cases are rare and my only options are the NZXT H510 and the Corsair 330t, the looks of the NZXT are amazing but my brother has one and that thing is gigantic
  16. Looks amazing o.o sadly it doesn’t ship to my country .
  17. Hello! This is my first PC I ever built, I was working in a very tight budget but it works and looks kinda decent, I'm looking for ways to improve the looks of my PC since it looks kinda ugly. Specs: Intel Core i3 9100f Asus Prime B365m/a MSI GTX 1070 Adata 2x8GB @ 2400mhz Adata 480 SATA3 M.2 SSD EVGA 500w 80+ Corsair Lightning node + RGB strip Cheap 120mm AiO Sirius Loop 120mm RGB Cheap Chinese ATX Case VictSing Mechanical Keyboard Corsair Ironclaw Wacom CTL-480 (Does the Macbook Counts?) The cost I've spent was around $230 dlls since the CPU and GPU were donated to me I'm planning to buy some white PSU extension cables and maybe a White Corsair 220t Airflow Since the GPU red PCB is kinda ugly I am also looking into 3D printing one backplate using ABS or lasercutting acrylic to fix it.
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