Jump to content

Solarity

Member
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

  1. You can solder or use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YFR63JP/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07YFR63JP&pd_rd_w=os8Ap&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=8Jwg9&pf_rd_r=MWQZZ2WA6ANT7B158HV7&pd_rd_r=2adeceb4-bf16-4c48-9219-48b9de7d2c36&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExS0xKQTVQRDhBT1hEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTEyNTQ3MldSV0JFRE8xUkM2TSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzM0Nzc0SEI3MjZWRVkzMzRQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Just don't join two large 16.4ft spools together . You can only put so much current through them.
  2. Traditional kits that is true, the LNP kits come with 4x LED strips and extension cables. Though as the LNP that comes with the 680x does not include strips, which reduces it's value, compared to the Commander Pro in the 500D SE, granted it isn't a full apples to apple comparison as to make it more complex, the 680x comes with a non-RGB exhaust fan.
  3. Nice summary! Just a heads up for ws2812b style LEDs, the data in and out are not reversible.
  4. The smaller the fan and the faster the RPM, the higher the static pressure. Larger fans like 140mm tend to be better in air flow, but might not have as much static pressure as a 120mm fan. The static pressure rating is for when the fan is at it's max RPM, at those static pressure ratings, it will be loud. I have HD-120s and LL-120s in my systems and I usually run them at 900 RPM. It is better on sound levels to have a many fans at lower RPM than having a couple at a very fast RPM. I also do like to use 140mm on exhaust, due to their higher air flow.
  5. Just a word of warning LEDs are not current limiting. They will eat as much as they can, until the die. If you are really sure that they are rated for 12v and have current limiting resistors inside of them, then you are fine to go. The analog RGB LEDs inside of PCs that use 12v are wired with 3 LEDs in series, each color also has a resistor to limit the current. Not having a picture of link makes it hard to help.
  6. It seems like you are a solution looking for a problem. The best way to get into something like this is to have an end goal in mind. For me a few years ago I got into water cooling and RGB lighting. I wanted a way to unify my 12v Analog and 5v Digital RGB devices. I watched a lot of electronic engineering videos, read a lot on line, and asked many questions on reddit. No matter how complex something is, it can be broken down into little parts. I found an Integrated Circuit (IC) that could do 90% of what I was looking into. I started to research how to create a circuit with that IC to do everything I wanted. I started playing with bread boards, resistors, mosfets, and the IC. Then I watched videos on how to solder, got a decent iron, and soldered some really rough prototype boards. Then I watched more videos on how to design Printed Circuit Boards (PCBs). Then I ordered parts and ordered a few cheap prototype PCBs that I designed. Put it all together, learned some more from trial and error. I did about 3 to 4 prototypes, before I got a finish board: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/solarity-technology-rgb-dac-expander/ I then started to learn about logistics and I ordered a production run of 100 boards that were about 90% assembled. Then about 6 months later I ordered 400 boards 99% assembled. Proof of Concept: Prototype Phase 1: Prototype Phase 2: No Video, as I had a design flaw in my first PCB Prototype Phase 3: Prototype Phase 4: PreProduction: First Production Run: I could go on, though no matter how stupid or insignificant an idea may be, if you are driven and want to get it done, you can get it done. Our biggest hurdle tends to be ourselves. The most important thing is have a goal, then try to break down this huge scary monster of a plan into little pieces that you can easily digest. I had no experience in EE, till I started this project.
  7. He must be getting the LNP confused with the RGB Hub, which is a common point of confusion. The RGB Hub is just a central point to deliver power to all the fans and allow them to be wired in series so the LED can be addressed separately across all the fans. The RGB Hub has no logic and just one bypass capacitor. Most other companies have the fans wired up in parallel so you will have 3 or 6 fans that will all have the same effect. In one of my other builds you can see how I have the LL-120s in the front addressed separately as well as having some effects flow from one fan into the other:
  8. I had the option of a 680x and a 500D SE, I went with the 500D SE and I do not regret it. The 500D SE comes with a Commander Pro and not a Lighting Node Pro. The 680x only comes with a LNP and no Commander Pro. The Commander Pro is can do what the LNP does and more. The 500D SE is also a little bit more water cooling friendly IMHO, it also likes nicer IMHO. Here is my 500D SE:
×