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About NewbieOne

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  1. Well, I didn't burn the card. I was actually surprised when it started without issues the first time (shows what kind of pessimist I am ;)). The mount clearly isn't ideal, mostly because I put heatsinks on capacitors, which collides with the main heatsink, but it works, even though you can see the metal bracket on the CPU is quite heavily bent. But it survived Furmark without exceeding 58 Celsius. Probably would have got a better result with a more proper mount and without putting the heatsink on and off several times with the preapplied paste. But if Furmark can't make it break 60 degrees Celsius, with the fans never exceeding 26%, I guess I won't see 90-ish temperatures in games after OC-ing. The goal was silence, in any case, and I love the way Furmark didn't make me hear the card. What's left for me to do is the overkill CPU cooler (TC14PE + 2x TY-141 for a puny 9600KF) and five P14s on the case, and I think I'll have a completelysilent gaming rig.
  2. Thanks! I used the included glue. I put it, along with some variety/size of heatsink or other, on practically everything that protruded from the card's board. Those were mostly rubber-coated, but in some cases there was naked metal, I think. I didn't even know (after so many years of Sunday tinktering) that a heatsink could cause a short at all. Any serious risk I could permanently kill the card like this?
  3. I am referring to step 4 in the Preparation section of Accelero Xtreme 3 manual: https://support.arctic.ac/index.php?p=ax3-rev2 Before reading this, I glued the heatsinks on all three colums. However, there was no difference visually — all three columns looked the same. There was also tape residue from my stock cooler on the third column. I likewise applied heatsinks on pretty much anything that stood out from the card's board — stuff the illustrations from the manual show left uncovered. Am I about to fry the card as soon as I plug it in? Or do I just risk the card not working and me not knowing why? Or nothing really?
  4. As per title. I already have a bunch of P14s, but I have an opportunity to buy three TY-143s for a good price along with a TY-147 as fourth. So should I? Or will it be a sidegrade or downgrade? I've already just tested TY-141 vs P14 and decided TY-141 was louder while not cooling noticeably better on my CPU cooler (within 1–2 degrees, with P14 possibly even being the better one).
  5. Thank you. I normally would have preferred a RAM-friendly dual tower or huge 14cm single tower, though there aren't many of the latter kind. But the U12A caught my attention due to the increased pipe count and total fin area. In the end, I ended up buying a naked TC14PE heatsink today, to go with the TY-141 fans via included clips. TC14PE + 2xTY-141 is probably pretty retro. And the total cost was about as much as a (new!) Fuma anyway, so perhaps not the best strategizing. Oh, we'll see.
  6. Sounds ridiculous, I know, but I can get a 20%-ish discount on the U12A and use the two NF-A12s on Accelero (which I already have). The U12A would then get some oversize effect like many dual towers and like Macho single towers and Fortis and a couple of other single towers but unlike the U12A with stock fans. Or would you buy a dual-tower heatsink the TY-141s (which I already have)?
  7. Does anybody have both in the same case? Does P14 end up moving more air for the same noise / being quieter for the same flow than P12 or not? Thanks.
  8. As per title. Of course, no monitor is going to have a positive or even neutral effect on your health given so much exposure, but what's the best of the worst? I currently have an AOC Q3279VWFD8, basically a budget 32'' IPS, which is a lovely monitor, especially for its price (a little more than $200). But I notice my eyes getting tired, me developing headaches and so on. Part of it is perhaps IPS, part the sheer size. Lower brightness settings feel as though too bright and too dim at the same time (it looks dim, but there's still so much glow coming at ya)… I wonder if I shouldn't perhaps just leave this monitor for gaming and buy a 24'' VA for work (flicker free + blue-light filter + whatever), or perhaps splurge out on a more expensive business monitor. I'm sure we have a myriad of professional writers of one variety or another in this forum, so perhaps someone could recommend something on the basis of first-hand experience, and perhaps comment on IPS vs VA and 24'' vs 27'' vs 30+ at an office desk. (No graphical/video work. It's just text for work, gaming otherwise.)
  9. Well, I was thinking G12 plus something used or something cheap like a CM Lite, as an alternative to Accelero/Morpheus+Noctua for a similar cost. But spending the card's worth again on cooling would be a poor choice vs upgrading it or adding a twin in SLI, yeah. I've already posted adds to sell the 1070ti, thinking maybe to keep the G12+AIO for something better. Alternatively, I could just get an Accelero with fan swap or Morpheus to play some with the card I have. It's a special OC version with 8+8 instead of 8+6 and soaks TDP well, so I thought I could have some fun with it for tinkering's sake. But yeah, well, financially it does make more sense to just upgrade the card. Edit: Bought an Accelero Xtreme III.
  10. Available rad spots: top exhaust: 3x140 max rear exhaust: 1x140 max (2 fans for push-pull doable if also grabbing an AIO for CPU) front intake: 2x140 max (but bottom will be restricted; however, 4 fans would be doable for a push-pull) bottom intake: 140+120 max (but front will be restricted; 4 fans would be doable) The intakes could be flipped (e.g. 140 rear-top and 140 rear intake, with rads on front-top and front as exhausts), though that's probably not a great idea (unless maybe bottom, as in blow the rad air outta the bottom of the case and onto the floor underneath) As for rad placement, let's say I decide to use 280 for CPU and 280 for GPU. Which way would be better — CPU top and GPU front or vice versa? Or get a smaller unit, put in the bottom or rear and keep 2x140 no-rad front intakes? Unfortunately, G12 won't support Arctic Liquid Freezer II, so gotta stick with Asetek. Ideally not too expensive. As far as I know, water is more efficient with GPUs and they don't need the same huge rad surface as CPUs do for the same TDP. So maybe something like Master Lite will suffice? Or a decent 140mm unit to put in the bottom or rear, in order to keep 2x140 front intake fans with no rads obstructing them?
  11. Based on tests (D14 vs D15 vs TC14PE w/same fans, passive tests, etc.), I would be inclined to think D14 is slightly better than D15 in terms of the heatsink alone. TC14PE may be slightly better still and Silver Arrow may be slightly better than both, though it's hard to tell. I haven't seen any tests for R1, Tisis or Okeanos with the same fans as D14/D15 or in passive mode. And, of course, having the best passive performance in the entire lineup doesn't necessarily mean the same heatsink would also win in 300 rpm or 500 rpm ranges (not all heatsinks designed with minimum flow in mind will also be best with zero flow). Bottom line: let's say you wanted to pursue the end game for air cooling. What would your end game for air cooling be?
  12. Conventional wisdom is: Performance: custom loop > AIO > air (custom loop > good AIO > best air = average AIO > crappy AIO) Silence: custom loop > air > AIO Where Noctua NH-D15, Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT and Scythe Fuma 2 are air coolers that play in the AIO league. Others can also pull it off thermally (especially Cryorig R1 but also possibly but with more of a difference: Raijintek Tisis, Reeven Okeanos, SilentiumPC Grandis 3 and other dual towers from lesser brands) but will be louder. As far as fans go, good AIOs will in fact be quieter than big air when tested in test rigs. But there are two problems: 1. The pump is a different matter. A lot of pumps are quiet but not fully silent. This means you quite possibly won't have a dead-brick-silent PC in idle or low loads due to the pump. However, once the fans get to the sound-pressure level of, let's say, a Dark Rock Pro/Silent Wings fan running close to its max (which is very quiet but audible), the fans will drown out the pump. 2. Pulling through a radiator + dust filter + case mesh can drastically increase sound levels, and the front of your case is closer to your ear than the inside where an air cooler would be (directly on the CPU). For example my Silent Wings 3 hispeed fans begin to be an acoustic nuisance as front intakes around 560 rpm through filter + mesh, while 850 rpm on the CPU cooler is more agreeable, with the same fans. Certain fans have a special acoustic problem with pulling. And certain fans also have a special problem with working in a horizontal position. In a normal case you won't get the same acoustic results as a tester with a test bench. Check out tests that specify a proper chassis in the testing rig. In plainer words, an air cooler is hidden, while an AIO's radiator with fans is exposed on the edge of your case and also turns your PC into a fish tank. *** Your particular CPU is demanding but isn't the worst hog of them all, so big air for OC is perfectly viable. My suggestion, however, would be to avoid looking for the best theoretical bang for the buck and instead embrace a great deal of diminishing returns. This is becasue: 1. Those prices differences — anywhere from 10 to 50 bucks — aren't objectively a great expense. 2. It's easier to make more money by working a couple of hours extra than save money by looking for bargains on the Internet. 3. It's better to end up with too much headrom than too little. 4. Overkill coolers generally don't go to waste — you tend to end up with a cooler system (e.g. the fans rarely spin up). 5. You can't just example or upgrade a cooler once you've bought it, you have to replace it. 6. Skipping to the end game allows you to, well, skip the hassle of the mid game. Pay and forget. If you decide to pay and forget and buy a D15s (D15 might not fit) or Le Grand Macho RT, you will be happy. Le Grand Macho would max out on your case's vertical clearance for CPU coolers (which is 160mm, and LGMRT is 159mm) and is recessed, so it won't conflict with RAM banks. D15S would also fit, normal D15 would not (the typical scenario is 140mm fan sitting atop of 30–40mm RAM sticks). For the record, the middle fan in the D15/D15S does most of the work, so removing the front fan (which is what D15S does) doesn't make that much difference. A pay-and-forget option would be to buy a H115i, which Corsair says is compatible with your case. Opinions differ on whether H115i Pro X or H115i Platinum (RGB) is the better cooler — they each have a different pump, and it's possible the pumps aren't even consistent within the same model in terms of acoustic properties. However, Fuma 2 should also make you happy and should usually be noticeably cheaper than D15s, although that is not always the case. In a lot of applications Fuma 2 ends up being quieter than D15 for the same temps. You could even experiment with a third fan (+rear) for either less noise (on low rpms) or more performance. Provided that it fits, which I'm not sure of. You'd have to verify it's going to work with your RAM and your mobo's RAM banks (distance between RAM banks and CPU socket). A potentially cheaper option — but likely not worth the hassle — would be to buy an old used heatsink (D14, TC14PE, Silver Arrow, etc.) — and strap modern fans on it (e.g. Arctic P12, P14). But this path likely isn't worth the trouble compared to just finding a good deal on Fuma 2 or D15s or LGMRT. As for single towers, of course Le Grand Macho RT is technically one, and then there's Ninja 5 if you can fit it (but Fuma 2 is sometimes quieter actually, despite Fuma 2 not being made for silence and Ninja 2 selling mainly on silence), or, well, U12A, which is probably the most advanced 12cm single tower in the market right now. I'm not sure it would make any sense looking at any other single towers really, as long as you can fit a Fuma 2. I would suggest choosing either Fuma 2 or LGMRT over Ninja 5, though, due to the fact that Ninja 5 is actually louder than they are under low and middle loads, and while it's quieter at max loads, that's because of the fans' 800 rpm cap, which can be a bit of a problem in the highest OC and load ranges. (Although, to be fair, 12V vs 12V, Ninja 5 can actually offer similar thermals while being several dBA quieter, depending on the CPU, OC range and load, and it will take a lot before its stops being sufficient). *** TL;DR If I were you and cared for silence, I'd grab a Le Grand Macho RT as my first preference, Fuma 2 second. If okay with a slight buzz / pump sound in idle/low loads, I'd go for H115i or — but you'd need to make sure the non-standard 68mm radiator + fan height will fit — an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280, which also has the added benefit of a 40mm VRM fan on the block, which in many situations may have more impact on your OC than just the CPU temps (the crappier the mobo's power circuitry, the more VRM temps matter). If your seller accepts returns why don't you buy an AIO first (H115i or LFII 280), test it and then either keep it or grab an air cooler instead? That way you will at least know, first hand, empirically. Consumer returns are a part of life these days. *** For my own applications, I'm not decided. I have an extended hearing range ('Exceptional', which is 2 notches above 'Good') and some neurological problems with sensitivity to sound, so while I'm not a crying pansy about civilized fan brush (which I sometimes like more than I like absolute silence), I really dislike vibrations, ticking, motor buzz, even electric hum. For this reason I'm skeptical about anything with a pump being a good solution for me. However, I'm certainly tempted by how AIOs are several decibels quieter in those situations in which you can't avoid audibility anyway. If I concentrate, I'll probably be able to hear an ultra quiet CPU fan rotating at 700-ish RPM, so I really doubt I could get away with a working pump, even on low rpms. And low rpms on a pump are a bigger problem than low rpms on a fan that sits on a huge heatsink directly on the CPU. So my current project is 1. Grab the best heatsink (after deciding just which one is best, where D14 contends with TC14PE and with the original old Silver Arrow with four 8mm pipes), 2. Put the best fans on it (Arctic P14 right now, though TY-141/147/150 would be better if it were available, and Noctua's 14cm version of NF-A12x25 will probably be better) in whatever number from 1 to 3 works out best for my applications. From 1 to 3 fans generally depends on your specific scenario. If you're going to have a high-RPM fan roaring at its full speed (2500-ish 140mm), then the number of fans doesn't really matter. In lower and middle loads often a single fan will be better than 2 or 3, but also often adding a second fan will allow both to run slower, for less total noise. In some situations, however, 3 low-spinning fans do allow further noise reduction compared to 2. Also the fans matter here, their flow-vs-noise balance. For some fans, adding more of them at lower rpms will be quiter, having just one fan motor running but cranking up the speed will be quieter. I've seen tests of D15 and Fuma 1 where adding a third fan allowed a significant noise reduction for the same temps. This all is something I'll probably have to find out by trial and error. I'm currently waiting for my P14 5-pack to arrive, so I'll see how they push and pell through duster filters + case mesh. If I'm satisfied, then I might buy an Arctic 280 (which has the same fans). But if I end up hearing them at 600–ish RPM, then obviously adding a rad won't help things at all, so I'll stick with air (and probably use 3xP14 for intake, 2–3xP14 for exhaust and 3xP14 on CPU, all as slow-turning as possible).
  13. Hi. I had a lot on my plate these last weeks, so revisiting this subject after some time. Currently looking at Xtreme III vs IV and — because IV is cheaper than III right now — wondering what's better: Accelero Xtreme IV with its controversially performant backplate, enhanced by aftermarket VRAM/VRM heatsinks to put on the front, at which point VRAM/VRM could become sufficient. Or not. vs Accelero Xtreme III with its nice robust set of tried-and-true front heatsinks, which is essentially already a complete system. However, this doesn't mean a bunch of copper heatsinks couldn't be slapped on the card's other side, or some kind of cooling backplate, if there is such a thing. Not really considering a pure fan swap, I think, as I want to swap paste anyway. However, feel free to convince me otherwise. Not really considering a Morpheus any more due to the general impression from multiple reviews being worse performance at higher cost than Accelero. Still not writing it off because those tests also show a noise advantage for Morpheus and — to my knowledge, at least — there are no noise-normalized tests.
  14. Alphacool Eisbaer 420. Anybody have this and care to comment on its performance vs noise, emphasis on noise? I know the pump's supposed to have some sort of acoustic insulation and is only a little less powerful with 7V instead of 12, but my primary point of interest is whether it can be truly silent in idle and low loads. I know it's going to be quieter than the best air coolers when it comes to huge loads on huge OCs, but again, I'm focusing on whether it can be actually silent when the load is light. Yes, it will fit the case, etc. The processor is mid-range — 9600KF, but I'm going through a point in my life in which there's more money than time, so doubling the budget and going for a nice AIO instead to escape comparing air coolers and cheaper AIOs does make sense, while I still don't have the kind of money to go for a proper custom loop. Also, this cooler is supposed to be moddable due to its modularity. Anybody got examples?
  15. Hi, guys, another update. I've done more 'research' (isn't really worth its serious-sounding name) across the various interviews, and focused on these: Tweaktown's review of Fuma 2 HWCooling.net's putting industrial Noctua F12 iPPV on Ninja and comparing with D15 Tom's Hardware's review of Ninja 5 focusing on powerful overclocked systems Tweaktown's review of Ninja 5 (but also analysed a bunch more) I focused on Ninja 5 and Le Grand Macho RT but included Fuma 2 because it sometimes manages to overtake them on performance, noise or both (narrow situations benefitting this or that cooler's construction) and included D15 because it's pretty much the reference cooler if not necessarily always the best choice, and even if it's not best, it's like always very close to the top. So the results I got is that for something like 6700K (in the tester's system, yes, I know) the Ninja will totally own — at max fans it's going to be like shaving off 5 or 6 dBAs at the cost of running 2 or 3 degrees hotter. This is exactly the tradeoff I have in mind. The problem is that 9600K or especially some future 11700K in my system and my house vs the tester's CPU, PC and office will likely, while not being worlds apart, still cointain at least a handful of at least minor differences, shuffling the 'order of precedence' among the coolers quite a bit. I can't claim these to be valid conclusions, more like somewhat (hopefully not to un-)educated guesses, but it seems that: The Ninja rocks the boat for non-extreme but high OCs and loads. At the less extreme end Fuma 2 will be quieter for the same temps, and LGMRT also like will be. As in, Ninja 5 can't reach the lowest of the low sound scores achieved by Fuma 2 and LGMRT. At the super extreme end the Ninja won't exactly crap out, but you'll see it overtaken by D15 and Macho, or even DRP4. The Macho kinda seems stronger overall, just losing by a notch to Ninja 5 in certain narrow situations. Incidentally, Ninja's max rpm sound pressure, which is lower than on the other coolers, seems to be vaguely similar to the pump on Liquid Freezer II 280 (though at that point the latter's fans could perhaps be louder), so perhaps water shouldn't be off the table after all, especially being cheaper than LGMRT or D15 (although Ninja 5 is still cheaper by some margin), although I shudder to think of the flow-taxing and sound-amplifying effect of pushing through a rad, filer and case mesh or pulling through a rad, filter and case mesh. Noctua's heatsink tends to win with the same fans, plus D15 cools mosfets/VRMs better, probably due to the oversized fan, which may be an important consideration in silent OC systems. Worth noting is that D14's heatsink often comes out on top of D15's with the same fans in tests. PHTC14PE also sometimes does, also also the original Silver Arrow. Such tests being pre-P14, I suppose P14 with its static pressure could make some difference blowing through thin stacks. If the A15 on D15 is responsible for the better VRM cooling, then the LGMRT presumably can pull the same off with the TY fan. Flimsy single-tower coolers with not too many heatpipes sometimes get surprisingly good results with proper ventilation. Doesn't really seem to be the case for my Ultra 120 with 2x140 Silents Wings 3 HS. Perhaps high mounting pressure and direct heatpipe touch make a difference.