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illerin

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Everything posted by illerin

  1. @BaidDSBIf your a cook, and your oven or sink breaks, do you expect them to know how to fix it? They would know what they want when buying it and know how to use it, but if it breaks i bet you they are going to call someone else to fix it. Some people just dont care or want to know how the inside of a computer works. Thats really the whole Apple model, it should just work and if it doesnt bring it to us, cause good luck trying to fix it yourself. Being a gamer/streamer it is most beneficial to know how your computer works and be able to fix it, but that does mean they do or have to.
  2. So getting parts in, sadly didn't get a Zen 3 at launch so will have to wait for that. Going to use a 3070 for now(will beat my 1060 mobile by a mile... or 10). But thinking of flipping the mobo/gpu and psu and having the side fans as exhausts and a fan in the open area exhausting up. So all my hot are is going out sideways and up while the fresh are is pulled in from the bottom. Still keeping the divider wall between the mobo and Gpu other then a cutout for the side exhaust area and power cable. Blue is intake fans, reds are exhaust. Parts: MSI B550m Mortar Seasonic SFX 650 RTX 3070
  3. @startrek03Thank, thinking im going to have to take down the old one and fix it up some. But that would be for another time. Next time i take work on it i will take some interior shots. Thought right now its just an empty shell so not much to see.
  4. Updated: Got the power button done, stained and clear coated the wood, painted the alum and added the case mounting hardware.
  5. @Bobby Frags How did the cable work out for you? Looking at getting a cable for the 3070 i ordered and wondering about this too. If yours worked, what cable did you use? Thanks!
  6. I got a 3070 FE from bestbuy, had no luck when trying on the site, but using their app i was able to order one.
  7. Got one from bestbuy online, could never add one to the cart from their website, but was able to order one thru their phone app.
  8. @Razorcat Ran into all those some issues when trying to get one on their webpage. Had my phone with their app on it and was able to get one with it. Kept refreshing the webpage as i went thru the phone order process incase it crashed while checking out. Never did get one added to the cart from the webpage.
  9. With how things are with stock, i would use use the 3080 till reviews came in on the 6800xt. If you end up wanting the 6800xt you probably still could sell the 3080 at purchase price or close to it once you get a 6800xt in hand.
  10. Radium_angel method is probably the safest way to go, unless you can get access to a second computer you can plug your ssd into to pull all the data from just in case. Also another possible option for getting an SSD, Goodwills in my area carry used computer parts that are cheap. Might be an option to pick up a temp SSD for cheap.
  11. Here is the model number for 4tb WD Blue CMR HDD WD40EZRZ. source: https://www.westerndigital.com/products/internal-drives/wd-blue-hdd
  12. the first image says it could be either, but then the second image states that only WD Blue 2tb and 6tb are SMR and all other are CMR(read the note at the bottom)
  13. Was the old 2.5" drive the C drive, or was that 32gb m.2? and is your new drive the C drive? might just be the file path that it has saved is looking for your old drive letter?
  14. i would go with 1tb SSD, and just wait for a HDD to go on sale later on when you have money to get it. Gives you plenty of fast storage for those ever growing game file sizes and you can just pick up a HDD when that starts getting full to unload all the extra files you dont need on the SSD.
  15. I use Solidworks for most of my modeling. But if your looking for a free software you can use Fusion 360(for a year i think?) which will work fine for a model like this. General update on the project. Been busy the past week weeks so only done minor work(lots of sanding) on the case.
  16. That would be an interesting way to do it, i always did like how the PS3 had that switch, but they are just two push buttons(cut alum rod and dremeled a slot for the push button switch to fit into, hot glue to hold in place) for power and reset for the computer. That way i dont have to reach under my desk to turn it on. I will have a power button on the case itself as well in case i do wont to turn it on from there.
  17. Thats the plan, also planned to stain the wood. Not Sure if i wont to do a brushed finished on the metal parts or paint them yet though. I do like the raw alum look, but the rest of my desk is mostly stained wood, black pipes and black peripherals.
  18. Most aluminum I've ever cut, still a lot of sanding to do. Turning out well so far! =D
  19. @startrek03 Making those test parts really helped refine the final parts, though after i bent them i found out i drilled the vent holes on the wrong side! So I guess i have the option for vent/intake from either side of the case now. Have the top and bottom panels and the perforated panel cut out. Going to wait till i have the computer hardware till i cut the top panel intake holes so they will line up with the fans. This is just a 1/8" wood panel so if i need to change the vent holes due to hardware change or change in air flow configuration its can be done cheaply. Still got a lot of work to be done to finish it.
  20. Making the final side pieces now. Built a form to hold the side pieces to ensure they are the correct width as the glue dries. Also have been thinking about airflow after @burh4n analysis and comments, and i think I'm going to add some pass thru holes for venting. I originally plan to flush mount the case to the bottom of my desk, but now thinking i will leave a 1/4" gap and have holes in the panel so the air can pass thru the case.
  21. Your perfectly fine, still waiting for the new cpu's to be released anyways. Ah, that would be why the positive pressure was so much higher then the negative between the two studies. I was planning on waiting till i have the parts to cut the opening in the back plate, so i can cut the holes shifted if they would get better airflow somewhere else. Or just leave them out if they dont fit. So like you said it really does come down to the perforated panel. The subpanel to it that i plan to do the cutouts in is going to be just wood, so i could make a few different cutout configurations to see what works best. Feature fill might have been a little easier, I did just have a perforated looking material that i applied to the part before but put the holes in thinking that would help with your simulation. For the foam filter i couldn't find a spec sheet for it, i just got a window unit filter(Frost King sku F1524), i was thinking a mesh screen would end up being more restrictive then a foam filter. I do know that the perforated plate block about 50% of the area, so that would be a reduction in air flow.
  22. @startrek03 Never knew there was such small bits for a larger shank! But i guess it does make sense to have smaller bits like those. @burh4n Those are awesome! thanks for running the simulations. For the modifications for testing, i assume the center divider was brought down to completely close off each side. For the back panel on the right side, where the pci slots left open for the test or only the perforations on the bottom?
  23. @startrek03 Was going to put my handheld circular saw blade on my miter do reduce the diameter, even then probably cutting just enough to peak thru the wood. That would make the material thin along the same line so filing would be easier. Used an exacto knife for cutting the slot in the first panel. The slot is a bit less then ~1/8" wide so a router wouldn't work, maybe a dremel bit, but i can see that going bad. Might see if i can get access to a laser cutter to just make my life easier.
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