Sihastru

A bit off the beaten path, but here it comes: Inter-tech AP-1. All aluminium construction with tempered glass side panels. http://www.inter-tech.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1118%3Aap-1-aluminium&catid=75%3Amittelklasse-gehaeuse&Itemid=922&lang=en

It's a standard PS/2 plug (6 PIN MINI DIN), but it's used in a proprietary way, meaning the pins can be wired in a strange way. It's probably a 2.1 Klipsch system like the people above stated and this cable comes from the little wired "remote". The problem replacing it with a PS/2 cable from a defunct keyboard or mouse is that most do not use all 6 wire connections. See this video for repair instructions (not my video, just something I found after a quick search): Also note the link in the description with info about where to buy the cable.

Did you try to use the AUTO ADJUST setting on the monitor? There are PHASE and SHIFT settings in the OSD that the monitor adjusts for every VGA signal (even minor changes can disrupt the signal). Probably not what's going on here, but I thought it needed to be mentioned, since VGA is so rare these days.

It's a tough choice. Both laptops are great, but I lean towards the Razer Blade Stealth. 16GB of RAM and an AdobeRGB capable screen. Almost perfect for the on-the-go photographer/artist/developer in me... except for those fat bezels. Are you listening Razer? Thinner bezels next time. Thanks

Cool little thing. Wouldn't mind having one. OR 4!

Slow Motion Video

Hey, I liked the Philips very much, that's why I bought one. My issue is that the panel doesn't have an intrinsic problem because it's a VA. Other VA monitors are fine. It's a firmware issue and I think Philips isn't interested in fixing it. Also I find it a bit concerning that no other review even mentioned any of these issues. For example, messing around with the contrast and sharpness settings will, in some combinations, make the visual artifacting be more or less prominent. I do a lot of coding and Photoshop work, developing Android apps and games, and the problems were too distracting for me. Even in Premiere there were problems. I guess I was spoiled in the past, having a 30" S-IPS Dell 2560x1600. Here's a video I made, where I discovered other issues with the monitor: In the description there are download links to the images used as test patterns, and also links to a few forum posts that replicated these issues. For games, youtube, tv series and movies the monitor is impressive. The blacks are so very deep that sometimes I had a hard time telling that the monitor was still on. And the fact that you can make the "wall of light" very dim means that you can use it for coding and reading text without too much eye strain. Even the PWM backlight wasn't affecting me in any way that I could tell. The glossy-ness was a bit too high for my taste but I was adjusting to it very nicely. But I just couldn't get over those other issues. And I think people should know about them and make their own minds about getting one of these or not. I made the decision to return mine and get my money back. And I have to tell you, after a few days with 40 inches of 4K awesomeness, I feel that my 30" monitor is really small now.

Nope...

I hope I'm not spamming, but look at my BDM3065UC... Others have experienced this same issue. So it's not a defective monitor.

One "small" issue that affects all BDM4065UC monitors: The image above is my own monitor, I've found others on the internet that confirm this is a widespread problem.

I also have SSDs in RAID0. But why use (fake hardware) RAID if you're only using ONE SSD?

You could be infected by a miner. Installing cracked games/software will cause that.

Looks normal to me. If you want to minimize the problem, try washing your hands more frequently and also clean the surface of the mouse button so it won't stick so much.

Is it an ASM1061 controller?

One little thing. I wouldn't use RAID mode for the SATA controller. Even if you use RAID0 only for the HDDs, the SSD will probably lose it's TRIM capability, because it's connected to a MATRIX RAID controller. What I would do, is set the controller to AHCI, and build the RAID0 in the windows drive manager.