CometLake

Hello, I finished building my computer and I need to install Windows 10, already downloaded the program from Microsoft site and used the tool to create the USB Pendrive. I need to decide how to partition my disks. I have 2 Nvme M2 Disks installed. One 500 GB Samsung EVO 970 Plus and one 500 GB WD Black. Can I just use the Samsung Nvme as a single 500GB C:> for Windows 10 and programs ? And the WD Black as D:> for other programs, files and games ? Or is it recommended to split the Samsung in 2 partitions, for example 250GB each, and do the same with WD? For example: C, D, E, F, 250GB each.

Thanks, I checked again and I actually ordered it without heatsink, but for some reason they sent it with heatsink. I will talk with the seller and see if they can replace it, otherwise I will send it back and order in other place. This disk is forcing me to quit two original parts of the motherboard to install it. Not sure if this is a problem with all Motherboards, but if anyone has ASUS Maximus XII Hero be careful if you buy M2 NVMe with heatsink.

Hello I bought a WD black that came with a heatsink. When I install it in my motherboard ASUS Maximus XII, the motherboard M2 stock heatsink dont fit back in, same as the plastic cover. Its hard to remove the WD black heatsink and not sure if its the best idea. Is it fine if I don't put the motherboard heatsink back? The mother's manual is too simple and don't say anything about it. I marked in white circles the original motherboard parts that dont fit back in. Worst case scenario would be sending back the SSD disk and buy a M2 without heatsink, or install it in M.2_3 socket, I add an image.

Thanks guys, I am finally installing it like this, inside the ASUS box. I attach a picture.

Hello! I don't have an anti-static mat to place the motherboard for building up the PC, insert the CPU, add the NOCTUA Fan and Heatsink, insert RAM Memory, etc. I see every tech YouTuber place the motherboard over the mother carton BOX. The question is, as long as the surface where I place the motherboard is not "conductive", is that just enough? Or can some surfaces be "not conductive" and still carry static electricity? (Not Conductive in OHMs measured with a tester) Obviously considering that I will ground myself touching something metal like the PSU or Case every 5-10 minutes when I build this computer. And Im not building it inside a room with carpet on it. I have a wood table that has some layer of plastic added to it, and was wondering if it would be the best place to build up the PC.

I heard Windows Enterprise is good. Is anyone using it?

Amazing. I ordered a NOCTUA NH-D15 too during this weekend.

I am surprised NOCTUA NH-D15 is not TIER 1 in this list. I suppose risks and scary issues of using Water Coolers are not accounted to build the list. If you extrapolate "thermals" only, then yes, you can build a list with mostly water on TIER 1, obviously, but there is a long list of variables involved in rating a CPU cooler.

During these 7 years, did you notice any leaks or any other issues with your water cooler? Or you did a lot of maintenance to prevent that? I really cant accept the idea of mixing up liquids with electronics, and also looking to buy a NOCTUA for the new computer I am building, using the 10900k.

Hello, the store I am buying from offered me two options: _Noctua NH-D15 (TDP 300w) _Noctua NH-U14S (TDP 250w) The only problem I see with the D15 is that I will have to adjust the second fan for clearance, otherwise it will touch my RAM Memory. Is the Noctua NH-U14S enough for the 10900k? There is also the option to order other brands and models, but it will take like 15 days to arrive here. I want to avoid AIO or water cooling as much as I can. Linus tested the 10900k with the NH-D15.

Thank you everyone for the responses. I am still waiting for the answer of the local store here to see if they will have the 750w available again next week. If not, I could probably go with the 850w. With the pandemics situation, it seems computer stores are out of stock, specially with PSUs. Thanks again.

I was going to buy the 750w Seasonic Gold (new version post january 2018), but the local store here sold it out and they offer me the 850w Seasonic Gold (new version post january 2018). Should I search somewhere else, or will the 850w work perfectly fine with my setup? (without consuming extra watts). Another option is the 650w, but according to Cooler Master PSU calculator website, I will be in the limit. Setup: Intel i9 10900k / Asus Maximus XII (Z490) / 32 GB Ram (2x16, can upgrade to 64GB) / One Disk M.2 nvme and 2 Disks SSD sata / NVIDIA 2080 Super Video Card Thank you.

Thank you guys. So is it correct to say the "Seasonic SSR-650FM" is the older version? Pre January 2018, that can show issues with 2080 Ti GPUs. And the "Seasonic FOCUS GM-650" is the new improved version post January 2018 that fixed those issues. Seasonic official site has the GM published in their main site and here is the PDF: https://seasonic.com/pub/media/pdf/consumer/datasheet/FOCUS-GM-FM.pdf When you search in Google, you can also find the SSR version (not published in their main site): https://seasonic.com/pub/media/pdf/consumer/datasheet/FOCUS-Gold-FM.pdf Something confussing is New Egg. They show the GM and SSR as the same PSU:

Hello, is there really a big difference between a "Seasonic FOCUS GM-650" and a "Seasonic SSR-650FM" ? Both are Gold Certified. The Focus GM shows as Tier A, right? But the SSR-650FM? I only see "SSR-GP" in Tier C. So, is the SSR-650FM tier C? Thanks in advance.

This Cooler Master case is amazing.