tkitch

BCFs don't help much for AMD but an offset mount might if the cooler isn't centered over the chips.
I think you "meant are not set too low. "
 
Did you remove the plastic barrier on the cold plate and apply thermal paste if it wasn't pre-applied?
 
Finger-tight is highly subjective and not necessarily good. Try remounting and use a screwdriver once your fingers can't turn it. Once you feel significantly more resistance, you'll know you're done. 

You have two choices:

Take it off and remount and see if it goes any better, or deal with very high temps.
 
arguing with people on a forum isn't gonna fix your temps, and nothing else seems like it's wrong.

If changing fan speeds didn't do it, then it's mountned poorly, or the AIO is defective.

But more likely it's mounted wrong.

There's no such thing as "99% sure I mounted it correctly" with temps like this.

Make sure that the pump and fan speed are not set too low at the temps you're seeing.  

yeah, you shouldn't be 30c over ambient.

Either the AIO is configured wrong, or you've got the block mounted poorly. 

seems a bit high, what's the ambient temp around you?

are you gonna walk someone through cutting open the end of the x4 slot to put in a gpu?

I sure as hell ain't.

@jaslion @daygeckoart @Agall - this model optiplex has the GPU slot on the very bottom edge, meaning it's only going to hold a single slot card (and all LP cards that I know of are 2 slot coolers.)

 
So, you could *try* to find another case to put it in?  but it'll be kinda rough:
 
1) Front buttons and usb won't plug into this board.
2) Normal PSUs won't hook up without adapter cables
3) the screw hole spacing will be off.
 
This isn't to say you can't make it work, but it's not going to be easy or simple to make it work.1

for the fans:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Way-Splitter/dp/B07PXLHNZ6
 
fan splitters.  you can usually run 3-6 fans on one header (depeninding on their power draw)
 
For the argb:

it's basically the same:
https://www.amazon.com/Jstincal-Splitter-Addressable-Extension-Computer/dp/B0C59BF1T3
 
argb can run up to like 125-150 LEDs on one header.  (The number of LEDs varies per device, so do math.)

at least a couple SATA cables will be included with the motherboard.
 
Power cables are part of the PSU.
 
Yes, if you don't turn on XMP it'll default to CPU Stock speeds (2666) 

technically, slightly, but in reality, not enough to matter.
 

What?  The Eisbaer is an AIO.  It's got the block and pump.

What?  The Eisbaer is an AIO.  It's got the block and pump.

Arctic's launch prices were introductory.
 
They said as much at launch. 

Buy the cheapest Alphacool Eisbaer AIO you can.  (The Pump/Res are on the CPU Block.)

The Radiator uses standard G1/4 fittings.  
You can then swap the tubes to any radiator you want.  

an i7 7700 is plenty to run a NAS with a bunch of supporting apps on it.  
 
With a GPU to transcode, you'll barely notice a plex load on the box.  

Backblaze B2 is 6$/mo for 1TB of data.
 
Don't trust anyone who is "free" with your data.  

Backblaze B2 is 6$/mo for 1TB of data.
 
Don't trust anyone who is "free" with your data.  

Backblaze B2 is 6$/mo for 1TB of data.
 
Don't trust anyone who is "free" with your data.  

that great!

Now make a second version that has the couch deflate after they land

that great!

Now make a second version that has the couch deflate after they land

you're in a dangerous spot between "not knowing enough" and "wanting to know too much"
 
So for a normal user (not buying the most powerful CPU from a company, not overclocking, etc.)
 
Here's what you usually want to keep an eye out for:
 
The "B" Series boards (B650 and B660/B760 currently for AMD/Intel) are solid middle of the road options, and support enough features to make most people happy.
 
The *70 (AMD) and *90 (Intel) are usually slightly higher end chipsets, but also more expensive.  But if they're a reasonable price, they're also a damned good option.
 
Otherwise the only thing to really look for:

Does it have enough IO for you?  
IO to look out for:
USB C, USB A, What type of USB?  Thunderbolt?  Etc.  (WIFI onboard if you need/want it)
Also an important one:  M.2 Slots
 
Beyond that, not nearly as much matters, as most people add a GPU and nothing else to PCIE Slots.
 
If you're wanting to buy high-end, there's more to know, but that's a dangerous (and expensive) path to follow, so don't do that unless you know you need to

you're in a dangerous spot between "not knowing enough" and "wanting to know too much"
 
So for a normal user (not buying the most powerful CPU from a company, not overclocking, etc.)
 
Here's what you usually want to keep an eye out for:
 
The "B" Series boards (B650 and B660/B760 currently for AMD/Intel) are solid middle of the road options, and support enough features to make most people happy.
 
The *70 (AMD) and *90 (Intel) are usually slightly higher end chipsets, but also more expensive.  But if they're a reasonable price, they're also a damned good option.
 
Otherwise the only thing to really look for:

Does it have enough IO for you?  
IO to look out for:
USB C, USB A, What type of USB?  Thunderbolt?  Etc.  (WIFI onboard if you need/want it)
Also an important one:  M.2 Slots
 
Beyond that, not nearly as much matters, as most people add a GPU and nothing else to PCIE Slots.
 
If you're wanting to buy high-end, there's more to know, but that's a dangerous (and expensive) path to follow, so don't do that unless you know you need to

Let em, he did specifically state in the video "Anyone who does this anymore can be shadow banned by the community team, and they've been encouraged to do so."

So, it may happen, but very quickly will stop happening, cuz they can't message or comment anymore.  

what case clearance do you have?

Generally right now the Peerless Assassin 120 SE is a go-to, due to it's super low cost and absurd performance.