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smaky

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About smaky

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  1. Not your fault, but why did CM design the front panel with holes and the filter with this 3d cube print?...it just doesn't work.
  2. I like it, it suits the OEM design and with a little twist (rainbow RGB) it could look like jelly beans tumbling down the front. Only this hurting my eyes is that a lot of the holes need to be filed out properly as there is some serious snowmanning going on there, but good work in achieving the goals you set out.
  3. well that plug in your fingers is the molex, AMD fan headers usually are planned to run on Razer Chroma, so you could plug it onto there, but you still cant sync them all.
  4. The power injection I referred to is for the 3 wire type, you simply have a tail coming from the + and - lines on the strip and connect that to a 5V supply, this is connected to in parallel and is used to to hold up the voltage along the run also allowing more current to be drawn preventing discolouring further down the run.
  5. Very nice......just don't let Jays2cents see those monitors....
  6. I have recently achieved this goal myself. From one channel of a Corsair Lighting node pro I have 10 strips of 34 5v RGB leds running in 2 parallels of 5 strips, to overcome this current draw hidden in my loop is a second 2 core loop carrying 5V and rated at 3A, this joins the loop at the end of the 2nd strip on each side and effectively allows 8A to be drawn by the rgbs, this also defeats the colour fade towards the end of the runs which can occur from around 2 meters (60 leds) into a run. Now I know you say you're on the 12V header but the theory is the same, using the correct strips you can boost the voltage buy plugging in more power downstream, and on 12V, every 3 meters is advisable, though you need to remember the signal strength may not be up to great distances so I don't think I would go beyond 10m in a single run using this technique. you could though space the leds out more and use diffuser strips, a lot of work but a lot less stress on your header.
  7. Simple answer, no. The deepcool stuff is based on 4 pin 12V rgb this is +12V live wire then 1 wire each to control the R, G and B lines by modifying ground signal. Corsair uses 2 different standards, but both are 5V, the 3 pin version is +5V live, Di (control signal) and Ground. the 4 pin version is +5V live, Di (control signal), Dr (Return signal) and Ground. The corsair 4 pin then is why with their fans you need to run a fan controller after the node pro and that why they must be plugged into the controller sequentially to maintain the return loop. DO NOT PLUG THE CORSAIR FANS ONTO THE BOARDS RGB HEADER. YOU WILL DAMAGE SOMETHING. Sadly if you had gone with an ASUS board there could have been a solution as Icue now supports a large ammount of their products through the board headers, I too have a system like yours with deepcool fans and other Corsair based RGB accessoriesd and wish they could be connected. But we all know that RGB is a scam and they just will not agree on a standard so we are just going to have to be careful what we buy and ensure that we don't mix up the different connection standards that use the same plugs...
  8. I like the look of your system in both before and after CLC and it's very clean in both guises, but I think I prefer and the haters are going to fire up now....... I PREFER the air cooled look to this build, I feel it looks functional and fills the space nicely without crowding it too much, also the white (SSD?) object covering the basement hole hid the rats nest, possibly the only thing that distracts from the aesthetic of the water loop build (do you have plans to cover that again?), still those hexes look like they were stock and that is a great way to mod IMO...make it look like it was meant to be that way from factory, I'm almost afraid to post a pic of my rig now...
  9. OK, I've scanned the CM website and looked at all the case fronts and front IO panels and think that I may have answered that question in my first post, it seems that the MB5L is the only case that uses that specific front IO panel (I am probably wrong) the others look similar but are of a slightly different shape and I think the panels may not seal if just swapped without the front IO, so it may require both of these...but the cost, would it just not be cheaper to buy the whole case rather than just the front panel and IO? Which after I toss this deciding coin may be the route I go.
  10. I'm going to look for this front panel right now, thanks guys.
  11. Agreed, but also de-pin the 2 extra wire from the lead so that you have the 6 you need in the 8 pole plug at the PSU cable end and the 6 pole plug at the GPU end so it looks clean, by this I mean leave all the PSU cables as they are, only modify the extension cable and only remove the cables in the +2 run.
  12. Hi, first of all, I believe that is the case proper name, It's actually was a Cyberpower pre-build but is now repurposed to my youngest's Covidschool/gaming PC. So, has anyone else had problems with this case having hideous airflow? I'm personally blaming this cases design for the death of my MSI 1050ti Aero GPU, a 4 year old card which never saw games more intensive than Rocket league, CS:GO, PUBG or Dayz and which was actually part of the original system in this case, in fact only the HDD, CPU and GPU remained from the original system in there. But I digress, this case has IMO, no cooling, the original system had only one exhaust fan at the rear, so a -px flow was bringing in dust and crud from every hole (and there aren't many) it could and it was like this for 2 years, I added 2 fans to the front to pull in air, It's then that I noticed the flaw with this case, everything rear or the front cover is fine, a joy in fact, this is a very easy case to work in and as you see in the pics, the GPU is now mounted vertically thanks to a Phanteks GPU mounting kit which in this case DOES NOT require any cutting of the material between the PCI slots as there isn't any on this chassis and with this mount the GPU is 3" back from the side panel so the GPU can breath (the 1050ti was in there till last week). THE PROBLEM IS THE FRONT PANEL, In that although there are 2 filtered slots for air to come in, the top one consist of (and I counted) 22 of the tiniest holes in the filter panel possible, approx 8 squared mm assisted by a filtered gap at the lower edge of approx 15mm X 120mm (kinder surprise egg for scale), and this was where 2 x 120mm fans where trying to draw air into, needless to say, I always ran with the case front off from then, and stability and temps dropped almost 30'C, and this is no super system, just an FX6300, I'd upgraded the CPU cooler from the stock after about 3 months and that resolved a lot of the hanging issues I was having, but the real story is that this case FRONT PANEL is a disaster, and I'm hoping that somebody knows of a mesh option to fit these cases??? as I don't really want to start hacking at this tinted perspex panel to much. I've added some pics of the case and the gaps I spoke of and how she looks when you have to run her up. And the specs... CPU...AMD FX6300 GPU...Gigabyte GTX 1660 super (RIP MSI 1050ti aero) RAM...16GB (4x4gb) 1600Mhz DDR3 Corsair Vengance MB......Gigabyte 970A-UD3P PSU....Thermaltake 600W (caution as these will not run Corsair AIO RGB due to the lack of 3.3V supply on SATA power line (5th wire) and this is the reason this PSU ended up in this system) SSD....500 GB Kingston HDD....2TB WD Blue Fans....Front 2 x Corsair ML140, rear Stock Cooler Master 120mm Braided cable extensions from Reaper Cables Wobbly head robot from McDonalds happy meal last week which shows when there is airflow in the case with a slight bobble of the noggin (if you are interested). I think I must add this, there is a 6" gap between the rear of the case and the wall so hot air is not trapped there and there is a window 2' to the left of the image always ajar. Also PSU is in normal config, sucking from the bottom and exhausting to the rear. In the last 2 pics the holes I referenced earlier are shown looking square onto them so there is no more than you see for air to get in. Link to CM page: https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/mid-tower/masterbox-lite-5/ In the clearly sponsored sales blurb video the fans are fitted in front of the chassis, I did this first time, 30 seconds later they were removed and put in from behind the panel because in that config you have 3mm between the front of the lower fan and the front panel and from experience, those fans were howling with complaints of air starvation, moving them back did quieten them down a little, but this is still a loud system because of them always running max rpm (I am changing this soon), But as you see in the vid, there are no vents on top or either side panel and the star of the show doesn't even fit the window panel back on while the system is running because if he did the the screams of starved fans would soon overwhelm his soundguys ears and that card would be buried alongside mine. So the conclusion is that Cooler Master murdered my beloved 1050ti with poor design. There needs to be a serious debate on whether they should stop selling this as I feel that many unsuspecting budget case buyers wont notice this till it's too late, I do note that the MB511 for example (and there are more in there range) is the same basic chassis, but they have ventilated the roof and increased airflow through the front, could the solution be to take this front IO and panel and just clip it onto the MB5L chassis??? But at what cost??? and you still have no roof vents. If I was reviewing this case It would get a solid 1 star, not for look, size, workability or compatability, they would all be up in the 4/5 star area, but the airflow is so dismal that all those stars are ripped away to reflect that this should be called the Oven Master Masterbake 5 lite. As an added note for the keen eyed, you may have noticed the ML140 RGB fans (from an AIO fitted to another system) in what is an AM3+ system (no MB RGB support), this has been gotten around by using a Corsair lighting node pro and fan controller plugged into one of the 3 USB headers this MB has, in addition to the fans and as an experiment I added a home made RGB light strip (5V RGB 3 wire, this is important) which consists of 3 rows of 8 RGB leds and sit top and either sides of the case window, 8 RGB leds in a row for 2 reasons, firstly, Icue will recognise them as 3 SP fans (to be setup in ICue) plugged into channel 2 of the Node Pro and secondly I had 27 RGB leds left over from another project and 9 per row just looks wrong when you're running the Icue profiles as none of their kits are made with 9 leds per item. In true Linus fashion I seem to have drifted off topic, but I think in one way or another all is relevant, so thank for reading and if you do know of a standard front panel swap with more airflow for this case then please share.
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