smaky

Hi, I know this is an old thread, but I have recently had a number of systems through my workshop with the same GPU and issue here, most of these systems though are a few years old, power supplies have never been the solution, RAM timings have solved 2 of them they were both AMD3+ based systems with fully populated RAM slots 4X4GB. BUT, 8 of these cards showed the blue light at the PCI-E plug showing they were getting the extra 12V but you get a 1 long and 4 short beeps (Gigabyte BIOS), With a second card in any slot the system will boot using the 2nd as primary, The RX580 though is not recognised (does not even initialise, incl NO fan spin) and no monitoring software reports it present in the system (HWMonitor, GPU-Z, Device Manager), the card is dead, But in a twist, if the system is left running then the fans will blip every so often as if it was trying to start. All but 1 of the cards was about 2 years old (in use time), the other was BRAND NEW but I suspect the prob with that one was installation error or transit damage as the back plate was squashed to the board and shorting several pins and the PCI-E plug (still had the blue light though) this one is the only no-fix as I suspect the die was shorted and when I saw the damage I just knew the time wasn't worth chasing the blown parts, Now the rest, they all had a blown 3.3V buck converter and fuse, various PSU's were in the systems, Corsair, MSI, Great Wall, EVGA and even a Dell Optiplex system, I keep a good RX580 for testing and all these systems ran fine with mine so PSU was not the cause.. (even the Dell 350W with its P4 CPU), This it when I found out there was a batch of dodgy transistors which XFX have managed to use (tracing batch codes) replacing these with a known good batch and obviously replacing the SMD fuse brought all the cards back to life, sdaly I don't make videos but this guy on youtube has found the same issue and has created a video linked below and I hope this long winded reply aids someone.

Not your fault, but why did CM design the front panel with holes and the filter with this 3d cube print?...it just doesn't work.

I like it, it suits the OEM design and with a little twist (rainbow RGB) it could look like jelly beans tumbling down the front. Only this hurting my eyes is that a lot of the holes need to be filed out properly as there is some serious snowmanning going on there, but good work in achieving the goals you set out.

well that plug in your fingers is the molex, AMD fan headers usually are planned to run on Razer Chroma, so you could plug it onto there, but you still cant sync them all.

please watch this

The power injection I referred to is for the 3 wire type, you simply have a tail coming from the + and - lines on the strip and connect that to a 5V supply, this is connected to in parallel and is used to to hold up the voltage along the run also allowing more current to be drawn preventing discolouring further down the run.

Meanwhile, in the quarry.................

Very nice......just don't let Jays2cents see those monitors....

I have recently achieved this goal myself. From one channel of a Corsair Lighting node pro I have 10 strips of 34 5v RGB leds running in 2 parallels of 5 strips, to overcome this current draw hidden in my loop is a second 2 core loop carrying 5V and rated at 3A, this joins the loop at the end of the 2nd strip on each side and effectively allows 8A to be drawn by the rgbs, this also defeats the colour fade towards the end of the runs which can occur from around 2 meters (60 leds) into a run. Now I know you say you're on the 12V header but the theory is the same, using the correct strips you can boost the voltage buy plugging in more power downstream, and on 12V, every 3 meters is advisable, though you need to remember the signal strength may not be up to great distances so I don't think I would go beyond 10m in a single run using this technique. you could though space the leds out more and use diffuser strips, a lot of work but a lot less stress on your header.

Simple answer, no. The deepcool stuff is based on 4 pin 12V rgb this is +12V live wire then 1 wire each to control the R, G and B lines by modifying ground signal. Corsair uses 2 different standards, but both are 5V, the 3 pin version is +5V live, Di (control signal) and Ground. the 4 pin version is +5V live, Di (control signal), Dr (Return signal) and Ground. The corsair 4 pin then is why with their fans you need to run a fan controller after the node pro and that why they must be plugged into the controller sequentially to maintain the return loop. DO NOT PLUG THE CORSAIR FANS ONTO THE BOARDS RGB HEADER. YOU WILL DAMAGE SOMETHING. Sadly if you had gone with an ASUS board there could have been a solution as Icue now supports a large ammount of their products through the board headers, I too have a system like yours with deepcool fans and other Corsair based RGB accessoriesd and wish they could be connected. But we all know that RGB is a scam and they just will not agree on a standard so we are just going to have to be careful what we buy and ensure that we don't mix up the different connection standards that use the same plugs...

I like the look of your system in both before and after CLC and it's very clean in both guises, but I think I prefer and the haters are going to fire up now....... I PREFER the air cooled look to this build, I feel it looks functional and fills the space nicely without crowding it too much, also the white (SSD?) object covering the basement hole hid the rats nest, possibly the only thing that distracts from the aesthetic of the water loop build (do you have plans to cover that again?), still those hexes look like they were stock and that is a great way to mod IMO...make it look like it was meant to be that way from factory, I'm almost afraid to post a pic of my rig now...

Thanks again.

OK, I've scanned the CM website and looked at all the case fronts and front IO panels and think that I may have answered that question in my first post, it seems that the MB5L is the only case that uses that specific front IO panel (I am probably wrong) the others look similar but are of a slightly different shape and I think the panels may not seal if just swapped without the front IO, so it may require both of these...but the cost, would it just not be cheaper to buy the whole case rather than just the front panel and IO? Which after I toss this deciding coin may be the route I go.

I'm going to look for this front panel right now, thanks guys.

Agreed, but also de-pin the 2 extra wire from the lead so that you have the 6 you need in the 8 pole plug at the PSU cable end and the 6 pole plug at the GPU end so it looks clean, by this I mean leave all the PSU cables as they are, only modify the extension cable and only remove the cables in the +2 run.