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TheBeast2211

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Everything posted by TheBeast2211

  1. In this case the journalistic best practice you are talking about does not apply. That is reserved for situations where previously undisclosed or unreported information is being brought to light. Everything GN raised in their video is already in the public domain, and was put there by LMG themselves. There is no need for comment on something that has in effect already been commented on by the party in question.
  2. But the organisation doesn't - so when a laptop is reviewed on Short Circuit by Alex for example, (even though its not meant to be a review, a whole other issue), he doesn't disclose the owner of LMG has an investment that causes a conflict of interest. Personally I don't find the Framework investment to be much of an issue, but it is without question still a conflict of interest. It's just a fact
  3. Just a follow up to your reply to my post the other day. A young person in the Youth Work field is typically defined as being between 16-25 years of age.

  4. I can understand the logic of the community standards, although in this case I'd suggest an exception might be reasonable. The young person has a learning difficulty, physical disability, and significant mental health challenges. They were convinced by online "friends" they sometimes play CoD with that implementing this cheat was the way to go. Their very nature makes them a target for such manipulation and influence. Reading about Richochet on the CoD website makes no mention of the type of hardware it logs/includes in any ban. https://www.callofduty.com/au/en/warzone/ricochet https://support.activision.com/articles/ricochet-overview
  5. Hi all - I'm a youth mental health support worker who also happens to build my own PC's etc. One of the young people I support has received a VAC ban on the new Call of Duty game, and I am going to help him get his PC back up and running for the game. I don't play FPS games so am not really across all the different cheat options, but as I understand it he used a Hardware Spoofer (and maybe somehow changed his Mobo MAC address?) on a previous version of CoD, and attempted to do the same on the new version and received a VAC ban. He would like to get his PC working again for CoD, and plans to no longer use any form of cheats. I would appreciate if some folks could confirm that the following steps will ensure he is up and running once again: - Purchase a new motherboard and replace the old one - Format boot drive and reinstall Windows - Create new Steam account - Create new CoD account He also often talks about buying a preexisting CoD account, so it would be good to know how risky this is in terms of cheats being used on that account prior to it being offered for sale. Thanks for your help all!
  6. I had wondered if there might be a multiplication part to it similar to RAM. Many thanks @SkilledRebuildsfor a good answer to a somewhat stooopid question. Used GPU paranoia was definitely hitting me!
  7. Hi all, Most likely I'm missing something here, but just wanted to be sure. I recently purchased a used Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti OC 4G card from eBay. It seems to be running ok - passes 3DMark benchmarks and Heaven running on a loop for 3-4 hours. I am confused and mildly concerned by the memory specs however. HWInfo and 3D Mark have the memory clock at a max of 1752Mhz over multiple stress tests, while Gigabytes website lists 7008Mhz as the spec https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N105TOC-4GD-rev-10-rev11-rev12/sp#sp Anyone have any advice?
  8. Interesting! That SNES setup would be ideal with the Arduino. And I could probably program my Harmony Elite remote to control the RGB settings he uses on that shitty remote. Cheers Dude
  9. Yeah an Arduino is an option I'll consider if I can't find something more off the shelf. I will be mounting a Rasberry Pi in there actually - do you know of any RGB products that work on those? In terms of other RGB probably just going to have a small 5V LED strip that will connect to the HTPC (not the UnRaid Server) and light up the radio dial section. The HTPC won't be always on though, so really need the Magic Eye to be powered and/or managed by the UnRaid machine.
  10. Hi all, As a general rule I'm not really one for RGB in my rigs, but this very unique build definitely needs some subtle RGB love and your advice or suggestions would be hugely appreciated. So I'm currently building an UnRaid Server and separate HTPC rig for living room VR/TV duties inside a1930's timber console radio. The radio has what is known as a "Magic Eye", which is a small glass tube (light bulb) that used to light up green when a user received a strong signal while manually tuning into radio stations using the dials on the front. I would like to recreate the green magic eye effect that you can see in the attached close-up pics using an RGB solution of some kind. In a perfect world I would also have software control of the LED so that I can create colours other than green on occasion. In one of the other attached pics you can see the actual glass tube that makes up the magic eye - the dimensions of this are approx 85mm in length with a diameter of 25mm. You can see in the pic of the rear of the radio how the tube is mounted into the frame. My thoughts are to remove the rear plastic casing and some/all of the internal components of the tube so that an RGB LED can be placed inside. Due to the limited space available I assume I'd be looking for a solution that involves only a single RGB LED, or possibly one of the LED strips that can be cut down to size (in my case down to only 1 or 2 LED's). The Mobo I am using is an ASROCK B250M Pro4 Micro ATX, which has no 5V or 12V RGB headers that I expect will seriously limit my options. Am I right in saying there are RGB options that are connected via USB 2.0/3.0 headers or even just using molex or SATA 15pin power? If so then these are the connection options I have available. The other major snag in all of this is that the Mobo is running the UnRaid OS instead of Windows, so perhaps I'll be limited to just a fixed green LED of some kind with no software control - which I can live with if need be. Do any of the RGB experts on here have any thoughts/links to potential solutions for this? Thanks heaps for any help guys!
  11. You mean the 3600MHz sticks? That aside I guess I'm just surprised the kit seems to work so well while not being on the QVL list. But I'm far from an expert so thought this post might help out.
  12. Hi all, So recently grabbed this board for a great price, and picked up a Corsair 3600Mhz kit of memory that I later realised is not listed in the QVL for this board. It seems to perform fine though - I have the XMP 2 profile working, and 3DMark TimeSpy results are slightly better than a 3200Mhz Kit I borrowed from a friend that is on the QVL list. Currently using an R5 1600 but planning on throwing in a new 5000 series CPU once the b450 BIOS is released next year. I have read in many places that I should avoid non QVL memory on Ryzen, but doesn't seem to be the case here. Should I be testing more thoroughly to make sure there are no performance penalities I'm missing, or am I good to go on the 3600MHz kit? 3200MHz Kit: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B01HFR96OQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3600MHz Kit: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07RM39V5F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. Awesome, thanks for the help. Nice to hear that what I thought was the case is also actually the case!
  14. I didn't actually swap out the cooler, just cleaned out dust from fan blades and heat sink, then reassembled. Also using a different power supply today, so can rule out any issues relating to that.
  15. I did re-paste - just used what I had on hand - which is Arctic Silver 5
  16. Hi all, I have a reasonable amount of experience building PC's, but this is the first time I've torn down a GPU for any reason. I took apart my blower style ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo so that I could clean the fan and heat-sink after three years of steady use. Here is my build: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/ryansmission/saved/2N3RGX To do the tear down I followed a YouTube tutorial specific to this GPU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kjHlEibCkE), and the process seemed to go well. (Note that I only used this video to get the PCB apart from the cooler/shroud, not to disassemble the entire cooler and install the aftermarket option in the video.) An anti-static wrist strap was used. When I put the GPU back into my PC, the system switched on and appeared to boot, but there was no image on the monitor. I switched the HDMI cable to another port, and then briefly got a picture. The GPU cooler then suddenly ramped up to 100% for no apparent reason so I powered down. I tried again, and got no picture again, so I tried with a DVI-D cable, and had a picture for a while and then it dropped out. Sometimes the GPU fan spun up to 100% again, sometimes not. I tried the GPU in a different PC and had similar problems. I also noticed that on the GPU PCB near the 8 Pin connector a red LED was on some of the time, but not sure what it means - see pic for details. Also noticed after the red one had gone out that a white LED was on in the same area. Two other things that I should note about my reassembly of the GPU that may or may not have played a part: The screw closest to the 8pin power connector didn't want to go all the way back in. After initially plugging the GPU back in and having the problems outlined above, I took everything apart again and realised that the fan power cable wasn't properly re-positioned, and so prevented the PCB from being able to properly re-seat, which in turn prevented the screw in the same region from reaching the screw hole properly. Perhaps this put extra pressure of some kind on the PCB or nearby components as I tried to get the screw to go back in? This seems a stretch though. Three of the thermal pads had remained on the GPU PCB instead of coming away like the rest with the cooler/cover. Initially I repositioned these as they were not entirely covering their respective modules. On tearing down for a second time I realised this meant that the pads were actually contacting with the GPU cold plate, so I put them back where they were originally located. Could this have caused overheating or similar perhaps? Doesn't seem explain why all these problems would persist after correction though. So I have kinda buried my head in the sand for the last month or so pretending this isn't a problem, and now finally have built up the courage to come ask for help. Am terrified that somehow I've killed the card! In trying everything again today I am getting no intermittent picture, just a black screen. There is a white LED near the 8-pin shining (See pic), and the GPU fan is spinning as it normally would. I am testing with a CPU that has onboard graphics and can confirm that I have no issues when switching the cable over to the motherboard HDMI ports. If anyone has any suggestions for troubleshooting this I would be eternally grateful. Definitely can't afford a new card right now!!
  17. I thought it would be but just wanted to double check. Having now calculated the Amps for the stock fan, can I also double check that the differences between the two fans in this area won't matter. Noctua fan = 12V, 0.84W, 0.07A Stock fan = 12V, 2.0W, 0.16A
  18. Hi all, recently purchased this 5x 3.5" drive bay for a very unusual NAS server build inside of a 1930's timber cabinet radio. https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=885&area=en The unit comes with an 80mm fan at the back that provides airflow to the drives inside, and sadly it sounds like a jet engine. So I thought I could just swap it out with an old 3-pin Noctua fan I have lying around. Upon removing the stock fan I realised it has a smaller than normal 3-pin connector, so the noctua fan cannot be plugged in to the smaller header available. Can I just switch out the connector from the stock fan and use it on the Noctua? They are both 3-pin, just a different connector size. I'm pretty useless at understand electricity related stuff and want to be sure I don't blow anything up. - Stock fan Model No. DFC802012M (no branding) : DC 12V, No amps reported, 2.0W - Noctua NF-A8 FLX: DC12V, 0.84W, 0.07A See attached pics of each fan to see the connector types. If anyone knows a good YT instructional video on switching out fan connectors that would also be awesome! Thanks!
  19. Hi all, Very frsutrated to have to ask what seems like such a simple modding question, but Dr Google is getting me no where. I'm planning a sleeper PC build in an antique timber radio, and for the life of me cannot find the name of whatever the fitting is that I would embed/fix into the wood, to then screw the Mobo standoff into. If anyone can tell me what on Earth this is called and where I might be able to order some, along with different length standoffs, and of course matching screws that would then fix the mobo to the standoffs (as per normal builds), I would be forever in your modding debt!
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