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About TheBeast2211

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z270-AR
  • RAM
    16GB @ 2133MHz
  • GPU
    Asus GTX 1080 Turbo
  • Case
    Silverstone GD08 (VR HTPC)
  • Storage
    Samsung NVMe 960 Evo
  • PSU
    Corsair CS650M 80+ Gold
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Awesome, thanks for the help. Nice to hear that what I thought was the case is also actually the case!
  2. I didn't actually swap out the cooler, just cleaned out dust from fan blades and heat sink, then reassembled. Also using a different power supply today, so can rule out any issues relating to that.
  3. I did re-paste - just used what I had on hand - which is Arctic Silver 5
  4. Hi all, I have a reasonable amount of experience building PC's, but this is the first time I've torn down a GPU for any reason. I took apart my blower style ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo so that I could clean the fan and heat-sink after three years of steady use. Here is my build: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/ryansmission/saved/2N3RGX To do the tear down I followed a YouTube tutorial specific to this GPU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kjHlEibCkE), and the process seemed to go well. (Note that I only used this video to get the PCB apart from the cooler/shroud, not to disassemble the entire cooler and install the aftermarket option in the video.) An anti-static wrist strap was used. When I put the GPU back into my PC, the system switched on and appeared to boot, but there was no image on the monitor. I switched the HDMI cable to another port, and then briefly got a picture. The GPU cooler then suddenly ramped up to 100% for no apparent reason so I powered down. I tried again, and got no picture again, so I tried with a DVI-D cable, and had a picture for a while and then it dropped out. Sometimes the GPU fan spun up to 100% again, sometimes not. I tried the GPU in a different PC and had similar problems. I also noticed that on the GPU PCB near the 8 Pin connector a red LED was on some of the time, but not sure what it means - see pic for details. Also noticed after the red one had gone out that a white LED was on in the same area. Two other things that I should note about my reassembly of the GPU that may or may not have played a part: The screw closest to the 8pin power connector didn't want to go all the way back in. After initially plugging the GPU back in and having the problems outlined above, I took everything apart again and realised that the fan power cable wasn't properly re-positioned, and so prevented the PCB from being able to properly re-seat, which in turn prevented the screw in the same region from reaching the screw hole properly. Perhaps this put extra pressure of some kind on the PCB or nearby components as I tried to get the screw to go back in? This seems a stretch though. Three of the thermal pads had remained on the GPU PCB instead of coming away like the rest with the cooler/cover. Initially I repositioned these as they were not entirely covering their respective modules. On tearing down for a second time I realised this meant that the pads were actually contacting with the GPU cold plate, so I put them back where they were originally located. Could this have caused overheating or similar perhaps? Doesn't seem explain why all these problems would persist after correction though. So I have kinda buried my head in the sand for the last month or so pretending this isn't a problem, and now finally have built up the courage to come ask for help. Am terrified that somehow I've killed the card! In trying everything again today I am getting no intermittent picture, just a black screen. There is a white LED near the 8-pin shining (See pic), and the GPU fan is spinning as it normally would. I am testing with a CPU that has onboard graphics and can confirm that I have no issues when switching the cable over to the motherboard HDMI ports. If anyone has any suggestions for troubleshooting this I would be eternally grateful. Definitely can't afford a new card right now!!
  5. I thought it would be but just wanted to double check. Having now calculated the Amps for the stock fan, can I also double check that the differences between the two fans in this area won't matter. Noctua fan = 12V, 0.84W, 0.07A Stock fan = 12V, 2.0W, 0.16A
  6. Hi all, recently purchased this 5x 3.5" drive bay for a very unusual NAS server build inside of a 1930's timber cabinet radio. https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=885&area=en The unit comes with an 80mm fan at the back that provides airflow to the drives inside, and sadly it sounds like a jet engine. So I thought I could just swap it out with an old 3-pin Noctua fan I have lying around. Upon removing the stock fan I realised it has a smaller than normal 3-pin connector, so the noctua fan cannot be plugged in to the smaller header available. Can I just switch out the connector from the stock fan and use it on the Noctua? They are both 3-pin, just a different connector size. I'm pretty useless at understand electricity related stuff and want to be sure I don't blow anything up. - Stock fan Model No. DFC802012M (no branding) : DC 12V, No amps reported, 2.0W - Noctua NF-A8 FLX: DC12V, 0.84W, 0.07A See attached pics of each fan to see the connector types. If anyone knows a good YT instructional video on switching out fan connectors that would also be awesome! Thanks!
  7. Meshify C owner here - Gamers Nexus in their case review found that having 2x120mm as front intakes had a significant impact on GPU thermals compared to the stock single fan orientated toward the CPU only. I can completely confirm this in my experience too.
  8. Hi all, Very frsutrated to have to ask what seems like such a simple modding question, but Dr Google is getting me no where. I'm planning a sleeper PC build in an antique timber radio, and for the life of me cannot find the name of whatever the fitting is that I would embed/fix into the wood, to then screw the Mobo standoff into. If anyone can tell me what on Earth this is called and where I might be able to order some, along with different length standoffs, and of course matching screws that would then fix the mobo to the standoffs (as per normal builds), I would be forever in your modding debt!