DGBuildsPCs

Hello, I will tack my question on to this one so as to not spam the forum with the same stuff. The only benefit I can seem to find that I might gain is faster boot time, as I have no large disk partitions. But, is faster boot time really worth converting from MBR to GPT so I can get UEFI? How much faster is it 5 seconds or more might actually be worth it, but 1 or 2 seems pointless. Are there any other benefits I am missing? Thanks, Dan

So a fun thing happened last night. I went to get on my computer at home and shook the mouse, and only one of my monitors was displaying, I thought that seemed weird, so I did a quick check of everything and all the connections were good and nothing had changed as far as I knew, I had just used it the day before. So, I rebooted it, and then neither display worked. Then I started to get upset and tried a few different setups, but nothing worked. I have an MSI GTX 1660 Ventus XS OC and a ASUS VG248Q connected via display port and a Dell 23" 60Hz secondary display connected via HDMI. The only thing that was different from any other day was that it was about the 3rd day of it having a CTR OC image on it, but that mostly just effects the CPU, and the GPU isn't OC since it won't really allow for an OC. Anyway, I have an old GTX 960 that I'm gonna test with tonight, as I don't have on-board graphics, and see if the Graphics card died, but does anyone have any other ideas I could test as well? Current PC setup: MSI x-470 Gaming Pro Carbon Ryzen 7 3800X 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengence RGB Pro 3200MHz MSI GTX 1660 Ventus XS OC Kingston A400 480GB SSD WD Black 1TB HHD ASUS VG248Q main monitor Dell 23" Secondary display Let me know if you need any other information. Thanks. -Dan

The 2200G has been replaced now with a 3800X, so I don't know if I'll even overclock it, because it already is more than double the OC 2200G's performance. I may see what 1usmus's new tool can do for it though, maybe.

What kind of room do you have in your case?

Yeah, well made AIOs are always a good option. I suggested the Air cooler because they're basically maintenance free for the most part, no worries about air getting trapped in the pump or anything like that. But, if space with RAM clearance on your board is an issue then a well made AIO is going to be the best bet, the random made one from Dell might not even be worth the material it was made from.

If you have the space and don't want to do a full custom loop, go with a nice Noctua Air cooler, they're awesome and quiet and low maintenance.

I set it at that voltage. Also, when I tried messing about with the RAM timings and voltages (doing so based off the Ryzen RAM Timing program, I can't remember the exact name right now, I'm at work) it was not happy with the settings even though I was using 3466MHz "Safe" settings. So my RAM OC knowledge needs to be expanded a bit more.

I deleted it. Also, the RAM is using a preloaded XMP because I was trying to get the CPU stable first. I'm not sure where you see tons of voltage on the CPU, it's only 1.488V, I've seen higher with lower clock speeds.

Delete.

I know originally your supposed to stress test this and such, but I am still learning how to do so using Prime95. This is stable though as far as I am concerned as Cinebench didn't crash it like the previous 10 attempts, and a few setups even had CPU-Z bench test crash it. so Here is my Ryzen 3 2200G overclocked to 4.163GHz @ 1.488V with the Bus speed at 100.8MHz. I still want to push it farther, so we will see...

What MOSFETs & VRM is a board like that running, I mean it doesn't need the full 384W, but can it even handle it? LOL.

So, I just got it back up and running yesterday and I actually kept the multiplier at 40X but upped the Bus to 100.0625 and bumped the voltage down to 1.3875V as well, it runs pretty decent. Before the cooling upgrade I ran a Cinebench R20 test and hit 87°C and then ran it again afterwards and only hit 69.9°C (nice), So now I'm ready to hit it with more overclock.

I have an MSI MB and mine have that on there and are OC as well, mine actually pulse, but I think that is part of the Mystic Light settings as you can actually adjust them in there for some reason.

Well, If it can be done via 3 and 4 Pin, then MSI doesn't support it. But, Corsair's SP120 Pro kit connects via a USB header and does in fact allow for individual control of each of the 8 LEDs on each fan.

I have mine overclocked on an MSI x470 Gaming Pro Carbon board, I had it at 4GHz at 1.4v on the stock cooler, and am swapping it out for a better air cooler (the Wraith Prism), which is still sort of a stock cooler, and I'm going to try going to something like 4.2GHz. Over on HWBOT I saw the records for air cooling were in that range, so we will see what I can manage. I'll post here once i get is setup and stable.

Well, with a 4 pin connection to the motherboard, Mystic Light is your best bet. Those other one I mentioned use separate software because they connect via USB and are able to be controlled like a mouse or keyboard would be, I do not believe there is a 3rd party software that will do what you are wanting, sorry.

In Mystic Light I do not believe it gets that specific. The other problem is that because it is on a 4 pin header on the motherboard it would not be able to individually control each LED which is what that would require. I do know that some Corsair setups (like the one I'm about to install) can connect via a USB header giving the ability to individually target LEDs on each fan. The AMD Wraith Prism cooler also has a similar setup. By the way, both of those require additional software and do not use Mystic Light software. But, as far as Mystic Light goes I have not seen that functionality built into it. Good luck.