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About Twinsenito

  • Title
  • Birthday 1990-02-02

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Battle.net
  • PlayStation Network
  • Xbox Live

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Moscow, Russia


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 Extreme 3960X
  • Motherboard
    Asus P9X79 Pro
  • RAM
    32 Gb DDR3
  • GPU
    Nvidia GeForce 1080
  • Case
    Thermaltake Level 10GT
  • Storage
    SSD Intel 240 Gb + SSD Intel 120 Gb + HDD WD 3 Tb + HDD Samsung 1.5 Tb
  • PSU
  • Display(s)
    Acer GD245HQ
  • Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Microsoft Ergonomic Keyboard 4000
  • Mouse
    Logitech G600
  • Sound
    Logitech Z623
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    Asus G74Sx
  • Phone
    LG V40

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  1. I feel like this solution is something I would buy. Thermal paste application is one and only procedure in computer building which is measured by eye, you just have to apply "enough" which is not as straight forward as attaching new card or something where you have just one way of doing it and nothing can go wrong at all. So this package would make it as straight forward as putting a graphics card in PCI-e slot. I've built a few computers successfully but I still feel a bit stressed when I have to apply a thermal paste. I personally love this new approach. Speaking of wasting more than you could without this approach, I renew my paste not so often so when it happens the package is either lost already or it's dried out already. So I buy a new package every like 5 years or so and it's not that expensive for this kind of regularity.
  2. So I've got this nice little ultrabook made by Sony which is called Sony SVD112A1WV or Sony Vaio Duo 11. And I loved it till the day it misteriously broke. It still works (all the computing power, keyboard, connectors, battery and stuff) and, i've got to say, works fast. However one day I turned it on and found my screen in broke: I found some massive spots of image distortion. And in a couple of weeks they've became much larger. The glass is totally fine and not shattered, I wasn't dropping it, it was in the same temperature as before, there was nothing heavy on it. The display just died on itself with no reason at all. While trying to figure things out I've found tonns of users experiencing the same issue with this model in more recent years starting from 2018-2019. Some of them are speculating that it's Sony's way to disable the devices so we would go and upgrade which would mean that Sony made the display this way intentionally so it would die in like 6 to 8 years. Like it's just a model faulty part which is made to die this soon (well, not that soon, to be honest, it's been like 8 years for my particular unit already). The main thing is: I couldn't find any services, including the official ones working with Sony in my region, who would have these displays in stock. They all say that Sony only produces the spare details for like 5 years or so and then they abandon the support for outdated products. So here are a few thoughts I'd like to share and discuss: 1) Is there a chance to find a spare display somewhere in the world? I couldn't find it on lots of sites, maybe you could help; 2) Should I even try? It still works fast and suits me completely but I'm not sure this problem won't happen again real soon, as well as I'm not sure about the possible price, it could be extremely expensive to fix it; 3) Is this situation common for laptops / ultrabooks? Or Sony? I still have my huge gaming ROG laptop from the same year and it works just fine. But this ultrabook is like super massively dying nowadays, as current owners massively report. So here are some photos of my laptop at it's current state: Oh, and one more thing. When it happened, I found the display glass to be really sticky like there is some kind of liquid running out of the display. Creepy stuff!
  3. Grid Autosport is worth mentioning as well. It's a console / pc game port which taken it all. Not sure if there are any android phones yet capable of running it maxed out without any lag.
  4. Very interesting. I don't know if it is a normal practic or not to discontinue the top product before announcing or releasing the new card. Looks like they are leaving no high end options to us. I guess this trick is being done to intentionally create a deficiency of top notch GPUs and this way create a bigger hype and better sales on day one. But that's just a theory of mine.
  5. I've been using LG V40 for the last year and I just absolutely love it. If you manage to find it in stock somewhere, I highly recommend you taking a look at this phone. It has it all: gorgeous 2k OLED display, modern enough CPU / GPU, three main and two front cameras which are all great, 128 gigs of storage, wireless charging, NFC, a headphone jack with some great QuadDAC for extra audio quality, water / dust protection, and much more. Take a closer look to it. I wouldn't recommend looking to V50 though since it's mostly the same but more expensive and less attractive, but it's just subjective. But V60 is more of a downgrade compared to V40 and V50 because they've tried to reduce the price by removing some features. So if V40 is available where you are, check it, watch some reviews. It's just great. And it's not that expensive now.
  6. So I've bought Sony Xperia 10 plus a while ago. This topic is not created to review this phone overall. I would like to share you what it's like playing on a 21:9 screen on Android phone. Normally I would split it to pros and cons. However, it will mostly be cons. So here is a pro: when you get an optimized game, it may show you more. That's it. Now moving to cons. There are popular terms widely known in widescreen and surround communities: horizontal plus and vertical minus. Ideally when you start a game on a wider setup you want to see more so the 16:9 part would be the same and the added parts would show additional content like wider field of view. But most of the times when the game is not specifically optimized for that you get vertical minus effect. It means that not only you don't get that wider field of view but you also get cropped image vertically. Here, take a look at this scheme I've made to explain it better: Basically, horizontal plus is good - this is the way screen developers intend it to be used. Vertical minus is bad, it crops the image and decreases your field of view. Since this whole making the smartphones long thing started they've been getting longer and longer. I'd say that 19.5:9 is kind of a standart these days. But it is not as long as 21:9 or even more (Samsung Z Flip is like 22:9). And here's a thing. Absolute majority of the games on mobile phones are cropping the picture, so it is vertical minus (or horizontal minus if you're playing vertical game) everywhere. But with 19:9 or 19.5:9 phones this effect is not as strong as it is with longer phones like 21:9. If you'll get two phones side by side and launch the same game here and there you'll see how much your game is being croped by 21:9 phone. Even worse, in lots of games you can have your camera too close to your character to be able to play or you can even not see all of the elements of the game like subtitles. I've checked a lot of games I have and there were just a few that supported 21:9 as it is supposed to be supported. All major projects croped the image really hard. GTA is hardly playable due to the camera being too close to the character (you can't even see the whole car you're driving with any camera). In Life is Strange you can't see half of the subtitles since it's being cropped. There are lots of games that launch in windowed mode (16:9 with black bars on left and right or top and bottom). This way it works nice but your game is just too small, it uses not enough of your screen so even your 6.5 inch screen looks extremely small compared to the older models with more traditional aspect ratio. So this aspect ratio might be good for work or browsing or messaging but it's absolutely not optimized in any ways for gaming. Either you're going to get very cropped image or very small windowed image with huge black bezels. Both of them are bad. It requires optimization from the developers to work good on these kinds of displays, but it's just not worth it for them since these phones are just not popular enough to even bother. They did optimize a few games for these screens to promote the phones (Asphalt 9, PUBG) but the list of not optimized games is just enormous. And even when you get an optimized game it doesn't add to the immersion in any way since there is no peripheral effect since your screen is just too small. So it really just some additional information in select games like casual coloring or card games or something like that. Conclusion is: if you want to buy a 21:9 phone and you want to have some gaming on it, think twice and check the reviews of the games you'd like to play on that phone before you buy it.
  7. That's a great idea because it's removable! Since if you add another piece of wood on the back where you've drawn these wires it would not allow it to go above the PC and other components staying on the floor. It was one of the limitations which caused this inner table to be not as rock-solid stable outside as it is while being "attached" to the main module.
  8. Thanks! Adding the rails was the first thing I offered to the manufacturer, but they said that it would increase the price for this table significantly. Not sure if that's true or not. However, there is some additional bonus for it being rail-less. You can get it out of the main table completely and move it freely within the reach of the keyboard's cables. This way it becomes less steady and more wobbly but still it's possible. There are two wheels on the bottom back of this inner table so you have to lift up the front part a little bit and then you can move it on these wheels without scratching the floor.
  9. well, I agree, however it's not completely useless on screens like 27 inch. It's great to have extra resolution when you draw some small details or make some vector schemes or presentations or doing sheets or modeling 3d. All that stuff that requires you looking to the smallest details of the screen to draw the box as precise as possible or find that exact dot to edit. Then it's worth having 4k or higher on any screen. I would say that 4k is really useless on phone screens - that is really just marketing stuff, haha.
  10. Well, it's more of a resolution related thing, you can get 27 inch 4k and get 4 times more space than you would have on 27 inch 1080p monitor. Yes, it would be small, but anyways. But in my case 24-27 is my maximum. My table is optimized for two 27 or three 24 screens. And I would need to raise my head a lot to see what's over there on the top of even bigger screens.
  11. So this is not a PC build, but it's PC related. I have decided that I need a table which would meet all of my requirements: - PC table wide enough to fit 3 24 inch monitors side by side; - enough space underneath the table to fit PC, UPS, big printer, subwoofer and my feet; - sliding surface or inner table big and strong enough to fit a full sized 88 keys music keyboard; - holes and stuff to make great cable management I've started with some sketches and 3D modeling: You can see there is a hole on the back of this table to get all the cables from my PC and also there is a small hole on the back of top panel to get monitors' and speakers' cabling hidden. Then I contacted some manufacturer doing custom tables. We've started discussing this project, and I've come up with more clean and precise scheme (side view): Then we've started. Manufacturer sent me some photos and videocalled in process to check if everything is fine. It was good. I approved it, and they started painting it. Well, the color is one of the downsides of this table since I've missed the color and it's just too yellow, but it's too late to change it now, and it's not that visible with all the hardware installed on it. But here are some photos from the manufacturer: I approved it again. The table was ready and was delivered and assembled at my place. I've started connecting all the cables, attached switch to the back of this table, moved all the stuff I've got to put under the table to get the most space for legs - here is a photo of the cables behind it: And here is a final result: The only modification I did after that is I've added some construction strips to fix the wobbling of the inner table used for music keyboard when it's all the way out of the main table. I use my old monitors now but I do plan on changing them to one 32:9 or three 16:9 smaller screens so this display situation is temporary. Conclusion would be this: If I had to re-do all this project again, I would make the top table surface twice as thick for added strength (I am not that confident that I can attach the driving weel to this table now) and I would add another cabling hole on the left back side simmetrical to the one on the right for all the cables from UPS and printer. Other than that - well, the top surface is a bit too high but I've managed to fit all the ingredients I wanted in all-in-one package with good enough cable management. It suits me completely. I hope it was interesting. If you have any questions or want to see some additional schemes of this projects, just ask me.
  12. So I've just finished watching the most recent LTT video where Linus goes all clean with his home setup and I can totally relate to it since I've planed very close thing and mostly it's already done. Well, the cables are going through hidden-in-walls tubes, which was planned while we were fixing the walls here. You can see that the screen is not covering cables and holes above it, which is temporary since I'm going to get LG 65C9 which will cover it completely. This setup is optimized for 4 consoles, a soundbar and TV all hooked up to each other and to the internet with wires with no cables visible. Take a look at some of the photos I already have. My current plans are: - Buy LG 65C9 to cover the holes above the current TV with a bigger screen; - Buy Sony HT-ST5000 soundbar and connect it to eARC of TV (it's going to be placed on top of this shelf); - Buy Xbox Series X for the last spot available under TV; - Buy some HDMI 2.1 cables long enough for my setup (not available yet) And then I'm done with this setup completely!
  13. Here is what I have, I've put a lot of planning in it. My router is at the entrance to my apartment. All of the cabling going through the walls and under the floor and then only goes out at rj45 wall sockets in three places. The forth slot is used to connect alarm system to the internet. All the cables are Cat6. All the switches and the router support gigabit speed. Switches are located in zones where devices are so there are no visible cabling most of the times. PS and Xbox - includes old consoles as well. Sound means soundbar. The only devices in my apartment that are not connect through a wire are laptops, phones, and guests' devices. Everything else is connected.
  14. I feel oldschool with this and only use TVs with consoles and PCs with monitors. One 16:9 or even 21:9 screen is not enough for me. I feel like it only choosing between 32:9 and 48:9. And I don't want my PC screens to be too big since I work on my PC a lot. Size matters as well. It's going to be two 27 inch (or double 27-inch which is any 32:9) or three 24 inch screens.
  15. Ok, I feel like it's been discussed a lot recently but I still couldn't find an answer to some of my questions. So if there is something similar being discussed, and I couldn't find it, I'm sorry, you can tell me so. The closest thing I could find is this topic on LTT forum. I've been using multiple monitors setups for a while now. I've had both 2-screen and 3-screen configurations and I totally love it and got addicted to it. However, I know that in most cases it's not a good solution for gaming since you get vertical- more than horisontal+ in most games (which means that your field of view is not increased by horisontal but decreased by vertical, so you get lesser field of view on multiple screens than you would get on a single 16:9 one due to lack of optimization). So I mostly use it for work, browsing and some multitasking. So I've got interested in these 32:9 screens eventually. I know it's 2 screens in one, not 3 (is it just a matter of time until we get 48:9 screens, I think). But I couldn't find basically anywhere if it's possible to use these screens like two separate ones. The only solution I could find is using PBP mode (picture by picture on samsungs) where you get windows to think you have two screens but you get all the good stuff like freesync or hdr disabled in exchange. This one is not worth it for me because if I buy this monitor I want to have full multitasking capacities of two screen in one bezelless device with HDR and freesync. Here are some real-life daily cases I'm going through. I am wondering if any of this is possible on 32:9 monitors: 1) YouTube fullscreen on one monitor / Couple of messengers on another 2) Game fullscreen on one monitor / Couple of messengers on another 3) Game fullscreen on one monitor / YouTube fullscreen on another So basically what I want to know is: can you set it up the way that when you double click on something or open anything fullscreen, it would only use one half of the screen while leaving the other available and working in windows like it would be with two separate screens. This topic is not money related or limited. I know that you can get some beautiful expensive 16:9 screens. And I know you can get three nice screens much cheaper than any of 32:9 screens. The only limitation I have is free space so I can only get one 32:9 screen or three 24" screens. But I want to make sure that if I'm willing to give up one of the screens to get a single 32:9 device, I'm still going to get the full 2 displays experience I would get from 2 16:9 screens.