MrCommunistGen

None of these ideas are really fixes, just more thoughts about what might be going on. With the continued parts shortage going on, it could be that ASUS switched the model of the fan controller. I have nothing to tell me that's what it actually IS, but it leaves open the potential that there isn't anything wrong. Maybe look around the TechpowerUp GPU BIOS database to see if there's any other ASUS ROG STRIX 6800XT LC cards listed there and see if the BIOS has a different version than your card. That'd be an indicator that maybe they changed something -- like the fan controller.

This is painful to even suggest, but have you reached out to Asus support to ask what the behavior of the card is supposed to be? You'd probably have to get a rep who really knows their stuff or who wants to get to the bottom of the problem to get any meaningful help... It's entirely possible that the ASUS ROG STRIX 6800XT LC is using a new or otherwise unknown fan controller, so it isn't properly supported by most software. You might try pinging the developers for some of the fan control apps to see if they know or can help you identify if it's a new controller that they need to add support for.

Hmm. That's really odd. I'm going to break my response up into sections to make it more clear when I'm moving from topic to topic. 1. A point I want to clarify is: You list two systems, but the same GPU in both. Do you have 2x separate Palit 1070 SuperJetstream GPUs or is it just 1 card that's been moved from System 1 to System 2? 2. I wonder if something in the DP-out circuitry on the 1070 is wearing out and... idk... producing a weaker signal or something. It could be that the display controllers on the monitors aren't able to pick up enough signal to actually drive the display, but your headset might have a more capable display controller? Also, I don't know much about headsets, but is the cable attached directly to the headset? As in: you're not using one of your DP cables? This leads to my next point... 3. The only recommendation I can give is that you might try buying a new DP cable, since LTT just tested a bunch of DP cables, maybe pick up one of those. This doesn't really address why your setup worked up until recently, but if it's a signal integrity thing due to failing output on the GTX 1070s, having a high quality cable might help. LTT DisplayPort Testing Video DisplayPort Test Results Spreadsheet 4. Most cheap adapters are passive and only go one way, from DP to HDMI. IIRC, to go from HDMI to DP you need an active adapter, and those tend to be more expensive. 5. The only similar experience I can point to is that I had a Dell U2412M that I used daily for about 4 years over DP, and then suddenly one day it stopped accepting DP input. I had to switch to DVI (using an HDMI to DVI cable). It refused to work with other video cards (IIRC I had a GTX 970 and an HD 7950 to test with) or any of the cables I had on-hand. A friend also had a U2412M, and his worked fine on my hardware with my cables, so I assumed the DP-in on my monitor died. I never really looked into it though. The monitor is still trucking along at a family member's house hooked up to an old PC over DVI.

Well, I finally got around to tearing down the system last night. The pump in my AIO seems to (prematurely) be on its way out. I have a ticket in with NZXT, but that's a whole other story. To RMA the cooler I needed to teardown the system anyway, and I have a handful of ITX coolers I can throw onto the system in the mean time. Part of why I brought this thread up NOW is that I needed to do some hemming and hawing about whether I should try to buy another SSD since I'm tearing down the system. I didn't want to buy another PCIe 4.0 SSD if there was a chance that 4.0 drives in general had some sort of compatibility issues with Asrock B550 boards. As it turns out, whether it was the SSD firmware update, a BIOS update, or some combination of the two, the ADATA GAMMAX S50 Lite is now working in the rear M.2 slot connected to the chipset. This has allowed me to move the S50 Lite into the rear slot which means I can upgrade the front slot more easily with a faster and larger SSD at my leisure.

The issue on the Sliger SM580 isn't the motherboard tray. The motherboard tray is actually nicely cut-out already. But since it's a sandwich style ITX case, there's a GPU mounted behind the motherboard and a PCIe x16 riser cable routed around back that's in the way. In the past I never even considered going in that way... and that's probably easier, so there's that.

FWIW, it looks like ADATA released a Firmware update for this drive in Dec 2021. I'm going through their truly janky process of updating the firmware now. I downloaded the latest version of their SSD Toolbox utility from the S50 Lite page Upon running it, it said that I had an outdated version and the utility downloaded the latest installer from who knows where and prompted me to uninstall the version I just installed and install the newer version. I went to Utilities and checked for a firmware update for my drive. Rather than the Toolbox itself installing the update, it then proceeded to download another zip file and prompted me to perform the firmware update manually. The included pdf showed step by step how to do this, and the process was easy enough, but nowhere do they list a changelog or otherwise indicate what the update is supposed to fix, so I have no idea whether my issue might be resolved. I really don't want to tear down my system, swap my drives into different M.2 slots only for it to still not work, have to tear down the system again and swap the drives back.

Wasn't sure whether to put this under Motherboards, Storage, or Troubleshooting. TL;DR Is anyone successfully using a PCIe 4.0 SSD in the chipset M.2 slot on an Asrock B550 board? If so, what drive are you using? My story I have a B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax that I was happily using with 2x PCIe 3.0 SSDs (2x Toshiba XG6 1TB). I'm using a Sliger SM580 case with a 280mm AIO cooler, so taking the system apart to access the rear M.2 slot (attached to the chipset) is a bit of an ordeal. At the time I was using a Ryzen 3700X, though based on what's going on the CPU shouldn't matter. Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly what BIOS revision I was on. I probably started with either 1.80 or 2.00, and based on the timing 2.10 was probably available, and I definitely would have tried flashing the latest BIOS as a troubleshooting step. When the ADATA S50 Lite (a PCIe 4.0 drive) came out last year, I jumped on it and got a 2TB model. I didn't get it for the speed -- it barely exceeds what PCIe 3.0 is capable of -- it just seemed like a decent, inexpensive 2TB drive. I wanted to throw it in the REAR M.2 slot (attached to the Chipset and running at PCIe 3.0) so that I'd be replacing the harder to access slot and I'd still be able to upgrade the front SSD slot at a later date with another large M.2 drive when I could afford it, when prices came down, when better drives came out, etc. Unfortunately, after tearing apart the system and installing the S50 Lite in the rear M.2 slot, putting it all back together, and booting my system back up, the drive didn't show up in Windows. It didn't show up in Disk Management, in the CLI tool diskpart, or enumerated as a PCIe device in tools like HWINFO. I checked in BIOS(UEFI) and the drive was not showing up there either. I'd already tested the drive in an external M.2 USB enclosure, so I knew the drive worked. The enclosure only supported PCIe 3.0, so I knew that, at least in some instances, the drive didn't have issues with backwards compatibility (yes, I'm aware a 4.0 drive SHOULD work in a 3.0 slot, but as I'm about to demonstrate, that doesn't always seem to be the case). I ended up tearing down my system again and swapped the S50 Lite into the Front M.2 slot (PCIe 4.0 attached directly to the CPU's PCIe lanes) and the XG6 into the rear slot. With this arrangement, both drives are detected and worked. For the last year or so this has served me fine, but now I'm ready to upgrade my 1TB XG6 to either a 2TB or 4TB drive. I don't really need more than PCIe 3.0 speeds for anything, so I don't have a problem slotting the new drive into a 3.0 slot (since I've already established that the S50 Lite can't go in the 3.0 slot), but the market seems to be shifting towards 4.0 drives, even in the budget range. I'm worried that if I buy another PCIe 4.0 drive I won't be able to use it in the rear slot. Does anyone have experience with using PCIe 4.0 drives on the chipset M.2 slot of an Asrock B550 motherboard? Have you had instances of it NOT working like I did? Have you gotten a drive to work? Thanks!

Unfortunately, the last time I had to deal with anything involving bootmanager and multiple OSes on the same drive was back in the Windows 7 days about 8 years ago. I don't really have any advice about how to fix this. Sorry. I guess the only idea I have is that you could try a different boot manager, like GRUB... but that could easily be a really bad idea and not at all be what you're looking for. I hope someone else has some better suggestions.

This is a bit more work, but since you're going to a larger drive, there's another possibility: Clone the drive as-is. Don't resize any of the partitions in Acronis. Maybe even do a sector-by-sector clone to make sure everything is exactly as it was. Make sure both partitions are bootable. Use tools to resize (expand) your C: and D: drives. IIRC EaseUS and AOMEI make tools for this that may or may not be free... and I know there's other tools out there, but I've never tried them. Unfortunately, the Disk Management tool in Windows can only resize partitions if the free space is contiguous with the partition you want to resize. It can't take free space from the "end" of the disk and add it to partitions in the "middle" of the disk.

That's odd. According to the spec sheet, that board uses an Intel 2.5GbE controller and I'd expect Windows 11 to have built-in drivers that work with that. Maybe it's a newer chipset and not the Intel i225-V that's been in use for a while now. Rather than rehash what others have already suggested, I'll offer up some ideas that are more "outside of the box": If you're not having luck with the methods of bypassing the internet check in Windows 11, one thing you could try is slipstreaming the drivers into the ISO using a tool like NTLite. It could be that the ethernet port isn't working. You could try to validate this by temporarily installing another OS like Windows 10 or Ubuntu just to see if the port seems to work. If it is working, then the driver route is probably the way to go. If it still doesn't work, you might need to RMA the board. You might try a USB or PCIe Ethernet adapter that Windows has native drivers for. I take this for granted since I have access to a pile of ethernet adapters, but it can be a good troubleshooting tip. They're usually pretty cheap if you don't already have one.

I'm not in an IT department per se, but I do run a special purpose computer lab and deal with cloning, backing up, and restoring images to dissimilar hardware and doing P2V conversions (physical to virtual -- in other words: converting physical machines or disk images into virtual machines). The only direct advice I can give is: If you're having trouble with Acronis, you might try Macrium Reflect. I've had a lot of success with Macrium over the years. I run into some really odd hardware and software in my job, and sometimes, for whatever reason Acronis doesn't work. Macrium has a free version that I've had a lot of success with -- and they even have a special Free commercial license, though I think there's some stipulations about using it for free in a corporation. My only gripe is that sometimes, the disk cloning process is really slow for what seems like no reason -- I'll be cloning between 2 SATA SSDs over USB 3.x on a Haswell machine and the process just takes FOREVER... but it ends up working in the end. As for getting more advice from others, I can say that people will probably want more info. What's the rest of your environment? What kind of laptop is it? What version of Acronis did you use? Are either/both of the Windows installations the original install from the laptop manufacturer or were they both installed by you? Was your original boot drive GPT? I've had scenarios in the past where disk cloning converted an MBR drive to GPT or vice versa. Anecdotal experience (why more info about your environment might help) I had a weird situation once with an Acer tower where the BIOS expected a non-standard boot partition. Trying to clone the existing disk to a different sized drive or trying a clean Windows install would render the system unbootable. We were trying to do a clean OS install and upgrade the system to an SSD from a 1TB 5400RPM. Cloning the original drive would only work if you cloned it to an identically sized drive, but we didn't want to throw a 1TB SSD at it (this was several years ago when 1TB was like $300). I ended up having to do a clean Windows install on the original disk by ONLY erasing the C: drive and not erasing or resizing any of the other partitions. The only other way I was able to get the system to boot was by leaving a USB flash drive with GRUB installed on it -- but it was going to the finance department, and I could see someone inadvertently pulling out or reformatting the drive and bricking the system, so I opted not to go that route. Knowing more about your environment might help uncover a weird scenario like this.

As an FYI, I was able to solder on a bunch of replacement MLCC capacitors. I did a pretty shoddy job because I'm not great at soldering. I'll attach a pic if I can dig up one (though it's pretty embarrassing). I never checked to see if the board would work with a bunch of those MLCCs missing for fear of damaging something, but I can confirm that with all my repairs the board seems to be working fine.

Oh, also, @startrek03 FWIW I purchased a copy of Fritzing and then tried to view those Asrock board schematics you linked. None of them seem to load. Idk if I'm doing something wrong or if maybe there's something I'm missing... I found a couple other sample diagrams around the internet and they load right up... shrugs that's a different rabbit hole I don't feel like going down right now.

Short version: I was able to desolder a cap and it measures ~10µF (10.2-10.3µF). Long version: I desoldered one of the caps, and then while trying to get the leads of my multimeter onto it with enough pressure to make good contact... it shot off onto the floor and disappeared forever. Since I'd probably killed the board anyway by removing a 2nd cap, I went for broke and pulled another one off and by being more careful was able to get a measurement. Definitely no markings on the cap on any side. So... now I need at least 2 replacements. Any suggestions or guidance would be appreciated. For starters since at this point 2 capacitors are missing and I've desoldered a 3rd. Would it make sense to just replace all 6 so that they match? Shopping at either Mouser or Digikey, it looks like I'd need to source a 16V 10µF MLCC -- of which there are MANY. There's tons of resources available for electrolytic capacitors, but I've been having trouble finding info on MLCCs. These are some of the properties I'm hoping to get some advice on: Are there any particular brands I should consider or avoid? Right now the brands I'm considering are TDK, Samsung, Taiyo Yuden, and Kemet. I'm currently considering X5R and X7R rated caps . I'm leaning towards X7R just to make sure what I'm getting is good enough. This is just a guess and not based on any sort of experience. I'm looking at +/-10% tolerance parts. +/-5% are pretty expensive and I feel like that level of tolerance is overkill... but again, I'm not an expert. I think that these are 1206 (in inches) capacitors, but I'm going to get some digital calipers to measure for sure. I seem to only have really crappy rulers that aren't anywhere near precise enough. If MLCCs are outside of your area of expertise, no worries. I found a recapping forum and posted some questions there where hopefully somebody with a specialty in electronics can be of assistance.

I started poking around the board (literally) with my multimeter. As oriented in the attached picture, the left-hand pad for each of the capacitors reads 0 ohms to ground. The right hand side reads as a pretty big number that doesn't stay fixed at a single value. I haven't desoldered one of the caps yet, but that's planned for this evening after it cools down a bit. Even without pulling one of the caps off of the board, if I use the capacitance setting I get a reading of ~90μF +/- 1μF on each of the populated components. This leads me to believe that they are in fact capacitors. I'll see about getting a true reading after desoldering one of them. And of course the holy grail would be to find some markings on the underside of the cap. The nearest rating I can find on Mouser is for a 16V 100μF capacitor... and at least for low quantities they're NOT cheap for such a small part. It looks like getting that combination of voltage and relatively high capacitance is costly. Dropping the voltage down a notch to 10V or dropping capacitance down to 47μF each cut the cost roughly in half. Thanks @ShrimpBrime for the continued input. I'll update the thread when I have more to report.