Johnny999

Thanks!

The Calibrite Display SL is a decent entry-level one that can measure up to 1000 nits. If you want one that is a bit more future proof and can measure future HDR displays with over 1000 nits of brightness, the Calibrite Display Pro HL is a good one. And here is a quick video tutorial on how to do the calibration:
 

Seems like Windows 11 changed the compatibility of .icc profiles then and most of the information about them not applying is outdated then.

Okay, then this is typical acceptable IPS glow and backlight bleeding.
I've owned at least 8 different IPS monitors in the past decade, cheap and expensive, and it's all a lottery.

Apparently that’s because it’s 4k then scaled down somehow.  Or something.  Not sure.
 
this page was explaining it 
https://www.rockpapershotgun.com/nvidia-dldsr-tested-better-visuals-and-better-performance-than-dsr

If you have either a 1080p or 1440p display that would usually make the decision for you. I didn't take into consideration the possibility the choice of display was still open. Also the question was "perform the best" which is not the same as "highest fps". I interpreted "perform the best" as also considering perceived image quality.
 
With the clarification, native 1440p will be highest fps, since it is doing nothing more. 1080p at 1.78x is 1440p rendered, but you have the overhead of DLDSR on top. 2.25x is even higher render resolution so would be slower again.

Looking for reference to the profile, not finding it.  650w PSU with a 5800x and a 3070.  And it’s too old to be atx3.0. I strongly suspect weak PSU.  Second time I’ve seen win11 producing fewer problems than win10 when the PSU is weak.  It’s become SOP to just add 100w to the minimum power requirements for modern GPUs.  The problem isn’t wattage per se, but that modern CPUs and GPUs tend to do this fractional second transient spike thing. Apparently the atx3.0 spec fixes it but you’ve got to have a PSU built with it.

Oh no I clicked on it.  After you accused me of missing something that doesn’t appear to even be there.  I do remember a previous situation where there was another post with a 650w PSU. Is this the same person with the same issue?  You may be conflating the instances.  In any case I think your problem is the PSU is weak. You may discount that, and if you are the same poster as earlier you apparently already have.  Did you try a different more powerful PSU? I’m guessing not.  If it’s not power you can try getting a better connection with the comb on your video card.  When computers first turn on there is a big power draw and if you PSU can’t handle it artifacting that immediately goes away is not impossible.  If it’s not the PSU or the connection there isn’t much to do.  There is no test for a failing gpu.  They work or they don’t.  And if they don’t there’s not much to do.  This not working then working thing bespeaks weak power delivery. Take it as you will.

Nope, there's no need to do that.
 
^time stamped for explanation

Do you use a water cooler for your CPU ? if that is the case check for leakages(get a piece of toilet paper gently touch along the surface and see if it absorbed any moisture do the same for the pipes )  maybe a drop fell down on your GPU and now it vaporized and the GPU works ok again. 

if it fits it wont be a problem
 
 

The RTX 2060 Super doesn't support PCIe 4.0, only PCie 3.0.
Only the RTX 3000 NVIDIA cards run at PCIe 4.0 speeds.

That's because it is a PCIe 3.0 card...

even PCIe 2.0 x16 would be sufficient. Back when thunderbolt 2 externa lgpus became a thing, even all of the high end GPUs performed nearly as well as a normal PCIe 3.0 x16 card and thunderbolt was like PCIe 3.0 x4

I have a B550 Tomahawk motherboard with a Ryzen 5 3600X and a RTX 2060 Super. The GPU is in the upper, PCIE 4.0 slot, yet in GPU-Z it says it is running at PCIE 3.0 x16. ???

I think the one on the ssd will do better due to more fins and surface area.

If you can remove the motherboard heatsink, I'd do that and use the SSD heatsink.
The SSD heatsink is intended for the drive, so would be the best suit for it. The heatsink of the SSD looks better too, in terms of cooling.

OP has their specs listed on their profile, case is the Be Quiet 500DX.
This case has the PSU mounted on the bottom, with of course bottom ventilation and even mesh on the PSU basement top, so the PSU can be mounted either way (just depending on if the case is not placed on a material that will suffocate the bottom, like thick carpet).

Position the fan DOWN if the PC is sitting on a flat surface, like your desk, wood, concrete, etc.
Position the fan UP if your PC is sitting on (thick) carpet and/or if your PC case has short feet, meaning the fan couldn't breath.
 
The RM650X fan only turns on when it reaches a certain temperature, which Corsair has tested will only happen at around 50% (somewhere around there), but of course it will depend on the ambient temperature (and if the fan is faced up, it depends on how much heat the videocard will output into the fan).

silent base 600 should help a lil bit

then silent base 600 with 7 fans. 500 DX is really good case.

Part of it is clearly the cooler design. But "bad thermals" for this case just means it runs roughly 5 degrees cooler without the front panel at the same fan speeds.

High 60s full folding load with 105% power limit on the gpu and cpu folding running as well
With everything i meant gpu and cpu temps.
Room temp around 22°C
Even if it sometimes hits low 70s, it aint bad

yeah it does, running it myself

With so many fans it should be fine. I'd probably only do 3 fans in the front, 1 in the back and 1 at the top back. The other 2 top fans would just suck out fresh air before it hits anything to cool. Also check again if the case supports 3x140mm fans in the front, most cases only support 3x120mm.