TigerBoy

Hi everyone. Thanks for all your feedback. Some of the items I saw from the comments are converters from PCIe to PCI (x16 to x1) and spliiters which I believe are usually used for mining. This unfortunately ain't my goal Thanks for giving me the ideas. Yeah I can't seem to find a product for it without hot wiring stuff and finding or coding custom drivers which I do not feell like I am capable of doing without it being a PITA. Unfortunately this is legacy gear so we can't generate a replacement/workaround until the next few years. I forgot that Thunderbolt PCI enclosures exists and this would work (despite it being bulkier than what I intended). Will revolve my solution around this instead. Thanks AbydosOne!

I am looking for a board that can connect a PCI card and can interface with my machine via USB. I am not sure if there is such a thing. Whenever I attempt to search for one I only see USB PCI cards (my search keywords are messed up for sure). It will only power an old x16 low powered custom serial interface card. We are transitioning to kill all desktops so we have to find a way to transition our communication to a particular machine via serial. Edit: I am not looking for a USB PCI Card. This is what I am looking for: Specialized Serial PCI Card <--(PCI Slot to USB Adapter)--> Laptop Thanks!

Awesome feedback! I think I will go back to the drawing board on this as all plans plans are somewhat not ideal (within the realm of keeping the warranty). I doubt there will be any issues as it came out the factory like this and all users experience this. It just really feels off having switches reach these temps. I may circle back to this after the warranty is gone. Thanks Jenko and stay safe!

It is the heatsink mainly. It would definitely benefit to put two smaller fans inside to push the hot air out instead. I know for gear like these it is mainly intakes due to the even dimensions of the chassis. Is there any benefit doing a push pull with 40mms or is it better to go push push for the two 40 mms to also cool the power components? (or maybe experiment and go from there) May just hold off on switch B for now as the border is not allowing imports. My problem now is switch A... Found a picture of it open. It is quite small which makes fan cooling impractical. This one goes around the 60 degree range without load which is too hot. Do you think it would benefit from sticking a heatsink on the chassis? I am not too sure how thick of pads I need for this... thinking 1mm or .5mm is ideal as the heat is not too intense. What do you think?

Hi Jenko, Thanks for the update! I plan on replacing the Switch B Setup with two 40mm noctua fans once the import borders open up again from where I am. Trying to think if it is worth using thermal pads for now or just a complete waste. I have two large sheets of 2mm thick pads and wanted to see if that would help.

I have a router and some switches that go from 60-71 Celsius (140-160 Fahrenheit). Switch A) It is not ideal putting a fan in the location due to limitations for one of them. I noticed the metal case (material not specified) is really sucking up a lot of heat to the point you can't put your hand on it for more than 5 seconds. This is a small switch so it is hard to cool with a fan. Switch B) (See picture A) I placed a fan on the bottom that will cool down 50% inside the chassis (via the side vents) and 50% the metal case. Heat currently goes out the side vents (top) and some heat stays at the upper portion of the metal chassis. This has dropped the temps to 47 Celsius from 71 Celsius. Also added an image of the internal layout and side vents. Questions: 1) Switch A) I would like to ask if slapping on a thermal pad would help dissipate heat at all even by a few degrees or does it not work without a heat sink or an active cooling source? 2) Switch B) Does it still help cool it down further if I slap a thermal pad on? Do I need to add in a heatsink for it to generate any additional benefits? Or is everything futile with this?

Just Posting this for everyone's reference: - Will still use my ISP's wireless router/modem combo (instead of getting a new one) - Decided on getting an Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X --> Will configure rules as detailed in my first post --> I will configure DHCP static MAPs for my trusted network devices (instead of static IP-ing them to easier manage them) which also includes the smartphone --> Will create NATs/port forwards for specific items in my trusted network that requires access from the wireless network (behind the ISP) --> Will create a rule that will lock down access for my phone to the trusted network port forwards Costs (less than 100$): Edge Router X - 85$ (more expensive here) Cabling - 14$ Again thanks to Electronics Wizardry for all the help!

Will look around Mikrotik's catalog to see what can do the job For the VLANning.... Will definitely do that in the new house where the cables are laid out strategically. In the place where I am going to install this, the room layouts would better benefit having a switch than multiple longer cable runs. Thanks for all your help Electric Wizard Rabbit that shoots lasers. Stay safe.

how careless of me to not include the usage... I would never Imagine a load on the device to hit 100Mbps concurrently since majority of the heavy traffic is in between that trust switch. No VPNs, No IPS just regular traffic passing through. Just need those inter-port ACLs to lock access down. Trying to look through my options both on the Mikrotik and EdgeRouter side. Would you have any recommendations?

Thanks for the reply. I am just really going cheap on this particular network. I can deal with the wireless thing later. Is there a specific device that you can start me out in the Mikrotik realm? Never worked with this brand before.

I usually deal with SMB to Enterprise grade routers/switches/firewalls and wanted something for my home that is consumer price friendly. I am looking for a wireless router that can do the following - Access control (either these two ways): --> Inter-Port level communication blocking --> Port subnetting (then firewall-ing) - All wireless clients will be guest except one which can communicate to a trust network - Something that is new and consumer grade (hopefully not more than 250$) Here is my intended communication paths: ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router LAN1 <- Trust Switch (Laptops, Desktop, NAS, etc.) ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router LAN2 <- Untrust Switch (Console, Off-Brand Smart TV) ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router LAN3 <- Untrust Device (1) ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router LAN4 <- Untrust Device (2) ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router Wireless1 <- Trusted Smartphone ISP Modem (Internet) <- Wireless Router WirelessGuest <- All other Smartphones Trusted Switch <-> Wireless Router <-> Trusted Smartphone Is there such a product in the "affordable" space? Expected concurrent throughput is 100Mbps max. Worst case scenario my priority is mainly securing the Wired connections and the wireless thing can be an after thought. Thanks!

Think of packet loss as when an extremely brief power surge/outage happens. Suddenly everything is alright then you notice your lights flicker and your speakers turn off. If it lasts for around a second it can even turn off devices and generally is not a good experience. If you are simply uploading files to the cloud (service like Google Drive, Photobucket, or Dropbox), most of them are smart enough and have mechanisms that would re-transmit the "packet that was lost" though you would notice it may take longer to send the file by a bit (depending on how much packet loss there is). If we are dealing with calls/ video calls, you would notice some choppiness, pixelated videos, loss of audio, loss of video, or similar issues. It all depends on the application you are using. Packet loss can be caused by a bad network card, a poor wireless connection (far distance or interference like microwaves or elevators), modem issues, or even ISP (Internet service provider) issues. Hope this helps!

Loss of performance is cool with me. Mainly concerned with stability, longevity, and the drive causing additional heat for other parts due to the lack of intakes on the chassis. 95% of the time it will be on a laptop cool pad so I feel I am on the safer side but just wanted to make sure I am not causing too much problems for those 3 criteria mentioned. Stay safe man!

Thanks for the response! I typically don't have any issues with normal M.2s. What about M.2 NVMes? don't they run quite toasty-er?

I know NVMe SSDs (in my case the Samsung Evo 970) have a thermal sticker that helps with heat dissipation. In a normal case, temps should not be a problem. It would be my first time putting this in a laptop that supports NVMes. My question is if would it be safe to put an NVMe SSD in a laptop as a secondary drive where it will only do a continuous 5-10% load with extremely rare 100% loads on it? I wanted to put some thermal pads but I read I have to peel off the sticker which will void my warranty so I don't think that may be an option. Any other recommendations would be great though! For reference I have included images of an ASUS TUF A15 below where I plan to connect it to on the second slot on the mid-right section. Thanks!