vsral

Another update: 
A while back I decided to splurge: Don’t know why exactly, but I just wanted those nice CNC case feet. After receiving the wrong feet first (same feet but different thread hole), MNPCtech was very quick to react and send out the right ones the same day. I could keep the other feet for a future project. Expensive feet? Yes, but service seems top notch as well!
I also added small washers between the feet and the case so the 140mm bottom fan filters just slip in between. Together with 120mm front fan filters the only unfiltered intake is the Noctua C14s.
 
More pics here: https://imgur.com/a/mcluArf
 

Another update: 
A while back I decided to splurge: Don’t know why exactly, but I just wanted those nice CNC case feet. After receiving the wrong feet first (same feet but different thread hole), MNPCtech was very quick to react and send out the right ones the same day. I could keep the other feet for a future project. Expensive feet? Yes, but service seems top notch as well!
I also added small washers between the feet and the case so the 140mm bottom fan filters just slip in between. Together with 120mm front fan filters the only unfiltered intake is the Noctua C14s.
 
More pics here: https://imgur.com/a/mcluArf
 

Specs:
- Sliger Cerberus
- CPU: AMD 5900x
- GPU: 6900xt reference
- PSU: Corsair SF750 (stock cables)
- MOBO: Asus Crosshair 8 Impact
- RAM: 32gb G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600 C16 (straight timings / B-Die)
- CPU cooler: Noctua C14S
- Fans: 3x Arctic P12 (intake) + 1x Noctua A9 Chromax (outtake)
- 4x 120mm mesh dust filters. 3 on the Noctua rubber mounting plus (on the outside) and 1 magnetic before the PSU
- Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2tb
 
How this build came to be:
Build a system in summer 2020 in a Lian-Li TU150 with placeholders for CPU and GPU: 2700x + 1660Ti. Gallery on PcPartPicker
I came from an old Xeon x58 system, so it already was a serious upgrade.
 
The 5900x: I got it 2 weeks after launch, after ordering at the exact minute of launch.
The 6900XT: In December I got very lucky to be able to order it from AMD directly. I wanted a 6800XT, but those really are impossible to find a decent prices. It was way more than I wanted to spend but I just got lucky and I knew it so I clicked the order button.
Already did a thermal pad mod: 
 
 
In the meantime, I swapped the SF600 for a SF750. For the SF600 and the 1660 Ti I built an extra complete PC. 1) Because I might need it when I'll live at 2 different places in the near future 2) because I'm into distributed computing (BOINC / Folding at Home) and 3) just becaused I wanted to.
At launch of the 3060 Ti, I just tried and was able to order a MSI Gaming X trio (499 euros) and got it 2 days later. Had trouble fitting it into the TU-150, so kept it for the new build.
 
So in november / december I built the following
- CM Nr200p 
- a used 3950x (450 euros)
- Asus B550i-Strix (30 euro cash back)
- G skill Trident Z 3200 C14 (Samsung B die) 2x16gb, used at a great price
- Corsair SF600 Platinum (from other pc)
- Noctua C14s
- Arctic P12 value pack (5 for 26 euros)
 
When the 6900XT arrived, it became very clear that a Lian-Li TU-150 couldn’t handle the heat output of a high-powered GPU. High load on GPU would also raise the CPU temps by a lot. The heat was really stuck below the top panel (above the cpu cooler). You could really feel the difference on the outside of the case The case just needs to be more vented or needs more outtake fans. 
I looked at the Sliger s610 and s620 as well, but went for the Cerberus so I could use full size fans on the bottom (quieter) with some space between the fans and the GPU (no turbulence).
Also, the width of the Cerberus is perfect for a Noctua c14s (S610 is too small: fan needs to be behind heat sink so warm air from gpu gets sucked into the heatsink. S620 is too wide, the fan would be too far from the panel. Plus, I prefer the aesthetic proportions of the Cerberus).
So I also swapped the C14s and U12a between builds.
 
- The case was very light when I took it out of the box. Somehow, I expected more heft to it.
- While building I discovered that I could NOT fit a 15mm fan on top (under the handle). So I bought a P12 Slim for nothing (luckily it was cheap) and now I only got 1x 92mm for exhaust. But I think the current 3 P12’s take in enough air to purge out the warm air through the vents. Also, there is plenty of space behind the C14S for a ‘chimney effect’.
- The arctic p12’s can deliver a lot more fresh air to the GPU than 2x Noctua a12x15’s can, while being quieter. Probably also got to do with the fact that the bottom grill on the TU-150 was way more restrictive.
- The case could (imo) be more vented on the motherboard side (like the S610 / s620).
- The panel behind the motherboard is hotter than the other side under full load. Glad I went vented instead of solid. Also helps the cooling backplate of the mobo.
- The handle feels so much better than the handle on the TU-150. No wiggle, no flex.
- GPU temps are way better than in the TU-150 without sidepanel.
 
For those who don't know the case: a high end, 18L small USA made case with solid powder coated aluminum panels.

The 2 'organ donors'

 
The 3 cases side by side

 
How the NR200P turned out with the Noctua U12A. The side panel fits on without a millimeter to spare. 

The complete setup.
- Dell S2721DGFA ( completely worth the 380 euros)
- Zowie FK2 + Leopold keyboard with cheap but nice wooden wrist rest
- Sound: Adam A5X (bought factory refurbished) with a Resonessence Labs Concero HD dac (bought used).
- Amazon monitor stand: KB + mouse fit under it easily (as dust-'shelter' when I'm not home).
 
 
The cooling backplate of the Asus Crosshair 8 Impact

The 2 'organ donors'

 
The 3 cases side by side

 
How the NR200P turned out with the Noctua U12A. The side panel fits on without a millimeter to spare. 

Specs:
- Sliger Cerberus
- CPU: AMD 5900x
- GPU: 6900xt reference
- PSU: Corsair SF750 (stock cables)
- MOBO: Asus Crosshair 8 Impact
- RAM: 32gb G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600 C16 (straight timings / B-Die)
- CPU cooler: Noctua C14S
- Fans: 3x Arctic P12 (intake) + 1x Noctua A9 Chromax (outtake)
- 4x 120mm mesh dust filters. 3 on the Noctua rubber mounting plus (on the outside) and 1 magnetic before the PSU
- Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2tb
 
How this build came to be:
Build a system in summer 2020 in a Lian-Li TU150 with placeholders for CPU and GPU: 2700x + 1660Ti. Gallery on PcPartPicker
I came from an old Xeon x58 system, so it already was a serious upgrade.
 
The 5900x: I got it 2 weeks after launch, after ordering at the exact minute of launch.
The 6900XT: In December I got very lucky to be able to order it from AMD directly. I wanted a 6800XT, but those really are impossible to find a decent prices. It was way more than I wanted to spend but I just got lucky and I knew it so I clicked the order button.
Already did a thermal pad mod: 
 
 
In the meantime, I swapped the SF600 for a SF750. For the SF600 and the 1660 Ti I built an extra complete PC. 1) Because I might need it when I'll live at 2 different places in the near future 2) because I'm into distributed computing (BOINC / Folding at Home) and 3) just becaused I wanted to.
At launch of the 3060 Ti, I just tried and was able to order a MSI Gaming X trio (499 euros) and got it 2 days later. Had trouble fitting it into the TU-150, so kept it for the new build.
 
So in november / december I built the following
- CM Nr200p 
- a used 3950x (450 euros)
- Asus B550i-Strix (30 euro cash back)
- G skill Trident Z 3200 C14 (Samsung B die) 2x16gb, used at a great price
- Corsair SF600 Platinum (from other pc)
- Noctua C14s
- Arctic P12 value pack (5 for 26 euros)
 
When the 6900XT arrived, it became very clear that a Lian-Li TU-150 couldn’t handle the heat output of a high-powered GPU. High load on GPU would also raise the CPU temps by a lot. The heat was really stuck below the top panel (above the cpu cooler). You could really feel the difference on the outside of the case The case just needs to be more vented or needs more outtake fans. 
I looked at the Sliger s610 and s620 as well, but went for the Cerberus so I could use full size fans on the bottom (quieter) with some space between the fans and the GPU (no turbulence).
Also, the width of the Cerberus is perfect for a Noctua c14s (S610 is too small: fan needs to be behind heat sink so warm air from gpu gets sucked into the heatsink. S620 is too wide, the fan would be too far from the panel. Plus, I prefer the aesthetic proportions of the Cerberus).
So I also swapped the C14s and U12a between builds.
 
- The case was very light when I took it out of the box. Somehow, I expected more heft to it.
- While building I discovered that I could NOT fit a 15mm fan on top (under the handle). So I bought a P12 Slim for nothing (luckily it was cheap) and now I only got 1x 92mm for exhaust. But I think the current 3 P12’s take in enough air to purge out the warm air through the vents. Also, there is plenty of space behind the C14S for a ‘chimney effect’.
- The arctic p12’s can deliver a lot more fresh air to the GPU than 2x Noctua a12x15’s can, while being quieter. Probably also got to do with the fact that the bottom grill on the TU-150 was way more restrictive.
- The case could (imo) be more vented on the motherboard side (like the S610 / s620).
- The panel behind the motherboard is hotter than the other side under full load. Glad I went vented instead of solid. Also helps the cooling backplate of the mobo.
- The handle feels so much better than the handle on the TU-150. No wiggle, no flex.
- GPU temps are way better than in the TU-150 without sidepanel.
 
For those who don't know the case: a high end, 18L small USA made case with solid powder coated aluminum panels.

I remember when I was happy my GTX 570 did over 15k PPD.
Now my 3060 Ti gets the same points in 1 day of work as my GTX 570 did in 200 days.
 
I really wonder how the coming years the PPD wil evolve. Half a billion points per day? Those rankings will have a decent amount of numbers in it....

the board boots just fine with 1 CPU connector, so for now it' s all good. tough in the future i'm definitely keeping an eye out for higher wattage PSU's. sadly out here in the netherlands high wattage SFX PSU's are very hard to come by.
 
i will be folding on this occasionally, tough i have a main F@H server which does most of the heavy lifting. i'll probbaly only fold on this when there's an event.

Why would you have a dust filter for exhaust?

Have the same issue (coilwhine) on certain workunits, although not that loud (1660 Ti).
On other work units, my PSU starts making a certain lightly audible ticking sound that correlates with the GPU usage% curve of Afterburner.
 
No way around it I guess...

Cerberus is MicroATX I believe. Cerberus X is the full ATX version.

That actually looks really good, nothing to worry about. 
 
That white stuff is a rubber like material the manufacturer (Seasonic) pours around big components and wires and the material acts like a vibration dampener and also holds those components and wires in place, preventing them from coming out of the holes in the circuit board. 
The big components and the wires are soldered to the circuit board using a process called reflow - the circuit board is placed in a frame which then travels over some smaller rollers into a machine a machine which then pushes up hot liquid solder onto the bottom of the circuit board, like a water fountain. The liquid solder sticks to the leads and the wire ends and solders them to the circuit board. 
That liquid jet of solder can push up quite a bit, so in the process the thin lightweight wires that are just sitting there inserted into holes in the circuit board could be lifted up, and then the wire would not end up soldered properly, so by adding a bit of that material, the wire is glued in place and guaranteed to be soldered properly on the bottom of the board.
The capacitors are too heavy to be pushed up, but as they're so tall, the vibrations from those small rollers as the circuit board goes into the machine can cause the capacitors to shake from side to side and one or both short leads could get out of the circuit board holes. So by adding a bit of that material, they lock the big capacitors in place.
This white glue can then remain to continue to give the power supply protections against vibrations, against mechanical shocks (like for example a box full of power supplies being thrown from a truck down onto the pavement when they reach a store)
 
The capacitor that's not sitting vertical is used to smooth the voltage on the -12v output, which is only used for serial communication. It could probably even be missing, and you wouldn't notice it, because you probably never used the serial ports on your motherboard (if the motherboard even still has these on the IO shield and not just as a header)
So it's really nothing to worry about. 
 
The capacitors are KZE series from United Chemi Con, which is a very good Japanese manufacturer of capacitors (those the capacitors are probably made in Taiwan or China factory of theirs) and KZE series is very good, reliable, with very good properties (good temperature rating, endurance etc)
They're looking very good, you can tell that the top vents (the Y engraved in the tops) are looking good, they're not swollen, so visually the power supply is in great shape, from the pictures I see.
 
The fan color bothers me, but if it spins well and doesn't vibrate or cause issues, it's probably fine. I don't think the fan has a connector, so if you want to replace it you probably have to cut the leads and attach the leads from the new fan to those wires (either by soldering or by twisting the wires and isolating them with some electrical tape... soldering would be ideal, would make it look professional)
 
 

Power supplies can hold a bit of energy even after they're disconnected from the mains (power cable disconnected, not just on/off switch flipped) 
The power supplies should have components that discharge that energy (convert it to heat) within 10-30 seconds from the moment you unplugged the cable, making the power supply safe even for a 1 year old child. However, there's no 100% guarantee that protection mechanism exists, and if it exists, that it's operating as it should (could be for example the leads of the component that does the discharging have corroded and broken so now the component doesn't do the discharging anymore)
 
Basically, it's only risky if you touch something conductive (metal heatsinks and metal bits of components inside the power supply) or the leads of components on the back of the circuit board, you can get an electric shock ... the energy goes from that metal bits through you down to earth. 
If you don't touch metal bits or if you wear some shoes with rubber or a material that doesn't conduct electricity or if you wear gloves , then you don't get zapped. 
 
So it's fairly safe to just unscrew the cover and lift it up to take some pictures ... because you're not shoving your fingers inside and touching those components, you're not getting close to exposed metal or anything conductive that could get electricity to you.
The fan can be touched, cleaned, removed, replaced, because it works with low voltage, 12v, just like any regular computer fan. 
The 3.3v is a bit on the low side, but within acceptable range (it's can be 3.3v +/- 5% , so 3.135 .. 3.465v )  but I suspect your motherboard is not calibrated well and measures all voltage a bit lower than reality. 
It would be best to just go and buy a digital multimeter and verify the voltages while the computer runs using the multimeter. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, even a 5-10 euro multimeter will be precise enough to give a good answer, up to 2 decimals.
The 5v and 12v can be measured on the molex (old hard drive) connectors... the black (ground/negative) goes in one of two pins in the center, and the other lead goes on the pins on the edges of connector ... one will be 5v and the other will be 12v.  3.3v can be measured on the 24 pin connector. it's one of the pins in the corner of the connector.  You can leave the black probe in the molex connector (on the center - ground - pins) and simply put the other probe to make contact with the metal of the pins in the 24 pin connector.
You can measure while computer runs, as long as you don't touch two pins/contacts with a  probe at the same time, nothing bad will happen. 
 
In addition to that, 3.3v is used by very few things in the computer and it's possible it's lower than normal because very few things in your computer use it - the power supply needs to measure some minimum amount of energy going out of it and then it can use the feedback to adjust the voltage up and down to get it closer to 3.3v 
 
Your computer may consume a lot of power, but your processor and your video card are 99% powered from the 12v output of your power supply and that's what matters. 
11.97v reported by HWInfo is perfectly fine value.
 
Didn't preview the video , but it should be fine : 
 
 

Hmm, close enough.
 
Cat 8 is split into two with 2000mhz
 
Cat 8.1 which goes up to 25GB 
 
Cat 8.2 which goes up to 40GB
 
Source: https://www.cablesandkits.com/learning-center/what-are-cat8-ethernet-cables

I need to add my 2x Noctua Nf12 redue 120mm fans, and upgrade the 1660Ti to a GTX 3070 when release. No hubby was not into computers he just used them for work.  Music was our hobby together. We both sang with San Francisco Gay Mens Chorus among other orginizations in the bay area. Also my husband was the music director and organist for the Cathedral here in downtown San Jose. 
 

I just want to quickly introduce myself here, since I'm pretty new here on the forum.
 
I have been Folding on and (mostly) off the last 9 years. First with i7 920 and GTX570 (I remember hitting around 60k PPD), and since a few years x5650 and RX580. Still, with the (in my opinion disproportionate) quick return bonus, it's no fun Folding with a bit outdated hardware, so I went with BOINC since a couple weeks. Still need to learn a lot, especially with multiple systems/remote acces etc. Since I found relevant info here, and it seems this forum here is relatively active with folding/boinc I thought I would join and crunch for LTT.
At the moment I only have my old x58 system but I'm in the process of buying another pc. 
Still not sure if it's worth it to let my NAS fold as well. (How is the performance/watt of a Celeron j3455?)
 
Best regards from Belgium.

I just want to quickly introduce myself here, since I'm pretty new here on the forum.
 
I have been Folding on and (mostly) off the last 9 years. First with i7 920 and GTX570 (I remember hitting around 60k PPD), and since a few years x5650 and RX580. Still, with the (in my opinion disproportionate) quick return bonus, it's no fun Folding with a bit outdated hardware, so I went with BOINC since a couple weeks. Still need to learn a lot, especially with multiple systems/remote acces etc. Since I found relevant info here, and it seems this forum here is relatively active with folding/boinc I thought I would join and crunch for LTT.
At the moment I only have my old x58 system but I'm in the process of buying another pc. 
Still not sure if it's worth it to let my NAS fold as well. (How is the performance/watt of a Celeron j3455?)
 
Best regards from Belgium.