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takk

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  1. Haha thanks! Anyway, I think I figured out. I was worried if my mobo would handle 3 fans. The new ones I bought are a bit heavy on load, they use 0.28a, but as there is 1a free it should be fine. I just checked and the current 3 fans I have on my case are directly connected to the PSU, that is why I have a "free" pwm slot. As I don't mind the noise from the 3 front fans at full speed, I won't change anything for now. But if I decide to change case/get better fans I'll get a fan controller/hub! Thanks a lot guys.
  2. Thank you! Apparently, my mobo (A320M-K) has an option for DC control, so I hope that helps! I don't think I'll mind them at full speed, tho. When they arrive I'll see if they're too noisy and decide what to do. For now I think I'll just try to use the splitter cable and connect all of them into the mobo, with no molex/PSU connection. I can still connect all 3 3-pin connectors into the splitter into the pwm, and then the molex interconnected to the PSU, right? Just in case I want to do DC control but take power from the PSU instead. (sorry if it looks confusing)
  3. One more question, btw thanks a lot for the help from you both! Would this work, to draw power from the PSU and be able to control it?
  4. Ohhh, using the molex and then the pwm on the mobo?
  5. Thanks! Will do in the future, for sure.
  6. So, I bought 3 new 120mm fans. They have each a 3-pin connector and a molex. I have one pwm slot available on my mobo, and I don't know how many molex are available. I also bought a 3 way splitter. What I was planning to do is to ignore the molex and PSU connection, and simply connect all of them to the splitter into the mobo. Will that work? Can it draw power directly and solely from the mobo? In case I need to connect them to the PSU, can I interconnect the 3 fans by their molexes, and only one going into the PSU?
  7. Thank you a lot! One last question, would you consider the OCX by Gelid 1g a "good one"?
  8. Thank you! Before researching, I bought a very cheap HY810, its not a knock-off, but it is a chinese thermal paste. The reason for it is that all I could find about it was about performance, and it performed well. Also I could throw in my purchase over US$30 to get free shipping and it was pretty cheap. I'm with stock thermal paste on a Ryzen 2700X for about a year and a half, getting at most 65c while gaming (even tho it reaches 85c on Aida64). I'm just worried that I might get a better performance with this cheap one for the first couple of months and then start to feel worse after that than what I have right now. Should be worth to try it or it should degrade pretty best and I should just get a better one? In that case I'll look into a Kryonaut, Arctic Silver 5 or an original MX-4. Thermal pads looks nice as well, I'll do some research about it! Thanks a lot again for all the replies! I'll follow the discussion.
  9. Hello! I've been researching a lot about thermal pastes, and I'm particularly looking for one that I can apply and forget about it, for at least 2 years, without losing too much efficiency. It really doesn't matter if it performs a bit worse than cheaper ones. I'm not an overclocker so I'm ok with exchanging 2-3c for longevity. I've heard only Arctic Silver 5 manages to last that long. Arctic MX-4 claims it lasts 8 years, but I've read reviews of it degrading after only 6-8 months, with a big increase in temperature. It might be because most people buy it from China, and I've read many reviews saying most of the MX-4 from China are fake. Is there any other brand out there that I could check out? I don't mind if it has a higher price, as long at I don't need to worry about reapplying for a while.
  10. I'm getting around 4.1-4.250ghz in a couple of cores in idle with Precision Boost Overdrive enabled. With that clock, the voltage goes from 1.4v up to 1.5v (temps around 45c in average). When gaming, all cores stay around 3.950-4.050, and the voltage drops to 1.3v~ in average (with temps around 65c in average, sometimes peaking up to 70c). Is this something I should worry about? I mean, should I do something about it? Should it be performing differently?
  11. Thanks, I understand it better now. In this case I wont wait the PSU to die to replace, but I'll most likely wait for Black Friday (I hope nothing happens in 4-5 months) or at least for a good deal around here as prices are really inflated. Then I'll get a better mobo and my system will have way better synergy.
  12. Just one more question, do you recommend me replacing it because 500W are not enough or because the PSU is unreliable? If I had another 500W (I'm not replacing it for another 500W, just for sake of argument), would be fine then?
  13. I'm planning getting a B450 when I get a good price (maybe on BF) and from there doing small overclocks, mostly to keep it running at a higher core and take full advantage of the 4.3ghz it can get on turbo. But nothing crazy like pushing beyond that.
  14. Because I only upgraded parts when I needed (my mobo died once and I had to replace the CPU as well because I got a new socket), or when I saw a pretty good deal (RTX 2060, cheap RAM, etc). And to be really honest I only do deep research on hardware from time to time, mostly when I need to replace something, and as the PSU was just working fine I kinda forgot about it. Even if its enough, do you recommend me replacing it atm for any particula reason?
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