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About Kabrevre

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Battle.net

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Australia


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 2600
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450-A PRO
  • RAM
    16GB Ripjaws 2400
  • GPU
    Sapphire 5700xt Nitro+
  • Case
    Thermaltake Armour
  • Storage
    4TB mirrored WB Blue
  • PSU
    Antec VP Plus 700w
  • Display(s)
    BenQ RL2455
    Asus VE248H
  • Cooling
    Wraith Stealth on CPU. Customised Vantec Tornado Herringbone flow setup.
  • Keyboard
    Microsoft Sidewinder X4
    Razer Tartarus Chroma
  • Mouse
    Logitech G500
  • Sound
    Onboard Realtek 6ch with Logitech THX 5.1 setup
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 (by necessity.) 7 was better

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  1. I hadn't checked through PCPC for alternatives, thanks a lot for those leads. ; )
  2. Thanks to everyone's advice so far. I'm currently using: Ryzen 5 2600. MSI B450M-A Pro. Sapphire Nitro+ 5700xt. Two WD blues 4tb mirrored. Two 240GB SSDs. 16GB Fortis 2400. Aaaannnd maybe slightly too many fans. (5 x 80mm Vantec Tornados and 2 x 120mm ones.) In the future I'm looking at an X570 board and Ryzen 9 3900x or 3950x, but I'll probably buy from the next Ryzen range and an X670 when they release later in the year. I don't OC anything because the risk is much higher than the reward in my situation, and eventually I'll be incorporating power-window motors into my case as a part of a mod. Hence why idiot-proofing is a good plan. I'd consider a second PSU just to run the stupid stuff but adding power units would not be the elegant solution I'm looking for. As far as I know there isn't much benefit to get from using dual 5700xt cards. I can run games maxed out and I'm very happy with my framerates at 1080p. 4k gaming is not on my wishlist right now.
  3. Are they both on HDMI or DP? I've noticed a bunch of cards come with 1xHDMI and 3xDP. I've had situations in the past where using a different connector type gave me different results on screen.
  4. I'd like to buy a new PSU when I buy some new more-costly parts in the near future because I'd like to protect my investment so to speak. I have an Antec VP plus 700w right now but to be frank it makes squeals and hisses that put my nerves on edge. It's not had any issues but I've built an awful lot of PCs and PSUs should NOT whistle and whine when your dispaly changes colour. Anyhow, I'd like a semi/fully modular supply around 800 - 1000w with a million-and-one different protective circuits. Many website info pages show five or six abbreviations for over/undervolt/surge protections, but I'd like to ask if there is a brand or specific PSU unit which has legendary reliability. I'm not fussed about efficiency, but I want to make sure this thing will save my hardware even if it's hit with Thor's hammer. I'm willing to spend a fair bit here, because while peace of mind is expensive, it pays you back every use every day. Many opinion pages say Seasonic and Superflower are among the highest quality, but nothing beats an endorsement from an experienced, genuine user. Links to my current shortlist. (Probably not the cheapest places, but I'll price match later after the best part is determined.) https://allneeds.com.au/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-850w-power-supply-6872 https://www.pccasegear.com/products/47175/super-flower-leadex-titanium-1600w-power-supply https://www.pccasegear.com/products/41149/seasonic-prime-ultra-titanium-1000w-power-supply https://www.pccasegear.com/products/41500/seasonic-prime-gold-1300w-power-supply Thanks very much for your help.
  5. When I last flew I had the opportunity to declare any risky cargo. Whenever it pops up to mention you have computer parts, make sure they know.
  6. Hi guys, I made some compromises in my system so I could by it sooner and chose to go with a B450 board. (MSI B450-A pro) The quick and dirty fact is that I'm just not happy with it, and now that I have some money to spend on an X570 board, I'm wondering if I should wait considering the B550 range launched recently. Is there anything that the X570 will be moving up to? If not then I'm in the clear, I just don't want another situation where I buy - install - get everything set up - then a better choice comes out. I care a bit less about compatibility, and a bit more about long term usability once I pick a strong set of core components. I bought a Phenom II 1090T soon after release and I got ten years out of that, and I'd like to get another ten years from my next big move up. I'm looking at the Ryzen 9 3900x as a good choice, but I hear whispers that I should wait to see what comes after the R9 options. I'm not at all impressed by the XT CPU range, but I'm worried that the XTs might be the last AM4 CPUs we get for a while. Thanks very much for your help.
  7. You may be on to something there. I don't remember doing anyting to the BIOS. Thanks for the help guys, I'll try and get it going again and come back with my findings. : )
  8. It could be left-over soldering flux. Manufacturers should clean it up but some don't get it all off. If it can be dabbed away with a paper towell that's unlikely to harm it, but if it's cake-like or crusty then it would need to be picked off. This can also be done but at much higher risk to damaging your components. The less pleasant thought about the goop is that it's just old palm and finger oils from skin. If there is no smell then it's unlikely to be capacitor juice. Laptops don't generally use barrel type capcitors though and this is unlikely. To address your first question, I'm having intermittent crashes occur similarly. I first tried to fix it by changing a bunch of Services to automatic to make sure a slew of things were already running which pop up in my event wiewer along with DCOM warnings en mass. 0x57 problems are all over the internet at the moment. Some people only have issues since Win 10 version 2004 got installed, but others like me had the problem long before that. The good news is that it's not likely to be any specific piece of hardware you have, considering that this problem occurs across the entire spectrum of system specs and brands, it's clearly an issue with Windows. The bad news is that all official Windows help sources will tell you is that "you should ignore DCOM warnings, they're not related," and Microsoft seem to be doing very little to address the problem. I dare say that most users have no issues, so until a larger percentage of the user base start to cry out, nothing will be done about it. Changing my Services helped to reduce the frequency of the crashes, but they still happen. I have my own speculations about it being caused by switching from monitor to monitor, and specifically in games it happens when a transparent layer is over the top of something like at Hero/weapon loadouts and overlays which come up beofre you get to see the killcam. Photoshop has also crashed the system, but was stable until I added transparency to the layer. The only other behaviour which exacerbates my problem is mocving the mouse cursor very rapidly.
  9. I might be an idiot, but I tried using that and it didn't wake the server. Are there settings which need to be set up beyond the checkboxes in the properties windows? It's possible that I've missed something easy but I was sure I'd tried the LAN option. I'll give it another go.
  10. ^ Maybe an expansion card, USB device, or program which handles the wake up for you or a Windows 10 feature hidden away somewhere? I have a file server (old pc with my old HDD, nothing fancy) on a CAT5 cable to my modem/router. Google results say it can be done but the setup through specific ports doesn't yield the results I want. Furthermore, remote dekstop access is a giant butt sometimes, maybe an alternative exists I don't know about. Thanks for any help and direction.
  11. I've always like to use bulldog clips. They can hang on screws or be clipped to the back or legs of the desk. If you wanted something a bit more discreet then some quality cable ties (LTTstore.com) might be a good choice for affixing the cables to desk legs. Example of the clips.
  12. I've used System Monitor II and I think I'll just have to cope with the GPU overlay from the AMD control prog. It seems that many GPU monitors aren't all that good at detecting the GPU diodes at all. Thanks for the recommendation.
  13. I just wanted to second your GPU suggestion. I used the Gigabyte Low Profile GTX1050Ti for about a year which requires no extra power and it worked a treat. 1080p at medium settings stayed at around 100fps for most titles, but I wanted to mention that if you have poor cooling the stock heatsink can permanently bow from the heat. The stock fan is frankly a potato compared to the typical fans a GPU should have.
  14. Thanks for confirming that it should be there. I'm quite certain I've fudged the installation by tinkering with my GPU settings and causing crashes. I'll go ahead and re-install it to make sure it's all properly listed. Thanks again.