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About HerrKaLeu

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  1. Fan ratings are just a guidance. They get measured in a free room. Here you have air going around all the obstructions, which creates noise. The fans could be virtually silent, but you still have noise from the air going around the obstructions. All fans also get measured with ideal flow conditions. Here you have "fan effect", which downrates the fan significantly. This is a typical cooolermaster design. Lol. Nice to use 200mm fans since they would have potential to be silent, but cool well. but then such a design failure. With similar quality 120mm fan, I doubt you improve things a lot, the swept area is the same. Maybe use a dremel to increase the opening?
  2. One problem I ran into was that dpi will be odd with large 55" TV. A 4K at 43" will be a bit over 100 dpi, which is perfect. For a 27" 2560x1440 is perfect (some are 1920 x 1080, which is horrible for 27") and for 24"HD is perfect. and most monitors follow that pattern. A 55" 4K TV is at a dpi of 80, which is coarser. Another problem with 55" TV/monitor is they are high, and you need to look up when you sit close. so for my work setup i ended up with 2x43" monitors. This allows me more window splitting a an oveall wider setup. Monitors have better stands with swivel and height adjustment. You also get USB-C 100w power supply built in and dipslayport. These may not matter, but the better stand is worth it. TBH, I only tried out a 55" 4K TV, and wasn't impressed. I haven't tried a 4K 43" TV due to lack of one. So there is a chance a 43" 4K TV will be fine. If i just had a 4K TV to use, this would be my first choice to try out. DPI calculator
  3. I've looked into the using a TV as a monitor multiple times and walked away with this: - a TV that has enough quality to be used as a monitor will be very expensive - a cheap TV (i.e. $400 55" 4K) will be good as a TV (watching from far away), but not be good for a monitor (close by) - If you entertain the idea of buying an expensive TV as opposed to a cheap one, you may as well buy a cheap TV AND a good monitor for almost the same money A cheaper TV (I assume saving $ is the motivation here) will only work as a monitor occasionally. Not 8 hour work. TV don't have displayport (if that matters to you) or USB-C powersupply built in (my monitors have a 90W USB-C option built in). not everyone needs it, but it is a nice feature if you need it. My main rig has 1 HDMI and one DP, so I couldn't run two TVs unless I use one of those DP--> HDMI adapters. Will it work in a pinch? sure, but ultimately you run into the engineering compromises each type is designed for. If you buy new, buy it the right way.
  4. I have a TV on a stand. the PC stands behind the TV to hide it. My idea is to mount the PC to the mounts (where normally the wall-mount would attach). that would require some sort of " shelf" or " L" for the PC to stand on that can be attached with the proper bolt spacing. the PC would need to be mounted with some sort of strap. the PCs i have are up to 175mm wide. I saw some thin-client solutions, but they wouldn't work with a regular PC. What are my options?
  5. I'm happy with my Sabrent Rocket and it is cheaper than the Samsung. I assume the Evo Plus is a bit faster, though, if that matters. I have the 2Tb version, and the cost difference was over $100 to the Evo Plus. If the added cost is worth it - only you can tell. BTW, the Sabrent NVMe I have is 5-6 times faster than my SATA SSD. So definitely go NVMe, no matter what. Once you are at NVMe, you probably look at minor differences between models. Note the Sabrent also has a little bit cheaper version with a "Q", which is a cheaper cell and doesn't have NVMe. So make sure you get the actual NVMe version.
  6. I have the i7700K with an 120mm Cryorig H7 in a case with 4 intake fans. runs at 75°C and idles at 35°C. Use very little well spread out thermal paste. that in an air-conditioned room (22°C?). I don't have a dGP, and only use SSD. So my case is really cold. With a bad case, I can see a 10°C-15°C difference. Improper thermal paste application can be another 5°C. If your room is warmer, it obviously also will warm up the system. Yes they run hot due to the IMHO bad design to use thermal paste instead of soldering under the heat spreader. So you won't get 60°C or so. So you will have to live with higher temps.
  7. Thanks for the response. i certainly will keep vivo in mind and appreciate that you responded It is a 48"x30" deep. It is a used desk from my wife's office. they are getting larger ones, so i inherit this one. Yes , i know, if i would buy one it would be larger, but this is what is free. I don't have it here yet, but it is a regular standing desk with no drawers etc. Just the desk board and the legs. It is a quality product (some commercial office grade, not just a Home Depot thing)
  8. Apologies if that is the wrong forum. I'm getting a motorized standing desk and want to suspend the PC under the desk so it moves up and down with the desk. One of my cases is the Fractal Design R5, the others are smaller. No glass panels. I like the flexibility to fit any under it. I'm wondering what i actually want and don't want to learn later there was that one feature i really would have liked. Some questions: - Is swiveling useful? I can't see myself using that feature - Are there options that allow me to open the side panel, or will such mount always require me to take the PC out if i need to "do something inside"? - there is a heavier duty (66lb) tube design. Other designs are rated for 22 lb. i never weight my PC, but fear with a large case, tower cooler etc. the 22lb rated ones are too tinny. Are the tubed ones less practical? - I don't have a glass panel, but if i ever had one, is there a mount that works nicer with a window panel? Meaning not covering part of the window? (not a deal breaker at all, I don't have a window panel) - there are sliding options. Is that useful at all? - What are the good brands? Google brings me Vivo a lot, I'm not sure if that is a good brand or not. i want something that will work a long time and can be adjusted to differing well and doesn't have me cursing every time i need to work on the PC. Those companies call the computer they hold the "CPU". Obviously if I only needed to hold the CPU, I didn't need such large device...
  9. I just replaced a CMOS battery... on an 8 year old board. I always power off with a power strip when PC is not in use. that PC also was a spare and not used for years, so it barely had any time with power. A battery stored in its package probably will be dead after 8 years of storage anyway. I doubt leaving power on really has a benefit for battery life. I'd be more concerned the PSU being on all the time since than it has more hours of run time and exposure to lightning, bronwnouts etc. (I realize it is exposed to those dangers when the PC is running, but then i actually have the benefit of PC operation)
  10. For mobile devices it is all about the TDP. Doesn't matter if it is the nominally most powerful CPU, it will throttle anyway. They are only powerful for some seconds until they are hot. Obviously the laptop manufacturer can improve that a bit. not sure if there is a way to compare cooling between laptops. i guess if I had to choose I would choose a low frequency CPU with many cores over a high frequency CPU with fewer cores. hoping the lower frequency CPU is more likely to run near its nominal frequency. I'm in the process to replace my daughter's MS surface. since it bogs down with even browsing when the fan starts to jam up and the CPU throttles. Going to a Chrome book, hoping the lower level OS puts less strain on things (and newer hardware). On paper, this tablet should be able to everything easily, but not in practice.
  11. Some manufacturers point out they use Japanese capacitors. That and generally well ventilated case will help a lot. not sure if they say if they use 105°C rated capacitors, though. What you pay for with an expensive board are features, OC options etc. If you don't use them, they are a waste of money. Also depends on the power draw of the CPU. If you use a 65W TDP CPU, the VRM don't matter as much. More expensive boards use more coolers, But with no OC, this may not be needed. A board and CPU kind of become obsolete anyway. The real longevity should be in the PSU and case. A good PSU also gives stable voltages under load. This will put less train on the DC-DC converters on the board. A good case will provide good cooling. Everything in electronics is about cooling. A good PSU and case can be re-used over multiple builds. And they don't get cheaper and better next year, unlike CPU/board. If i was on a budget, I'd put all $ in the case/PSU and less in the board with the idea if it isn't great, I upgrade that next year for less money.
  12. I haven't found the perfect case yet, but have 3 contenders: Rosewill FBM-X2 they cost around $30-$40, but are currently not well available. Jonsbo U3 Cost around $70, but isn't really available these days. My nitpick is they should put the PSU at the bottom and draw air for it from below. Silverstone PS 15 Is around $70, and has a glass panel. I'd prefer the solid panel. sn' look bad, but For comparison, I already own a Fractal Design core 1100, but think it is 2 large due to DVD option (and has room for improvement for my case). I actually own 2 of them. The above are a bit wider, which works for for larger coolers.
  13. thanks for the info. the PS 15 doesn't look bad. the ML seem to be ITX. the GD seem to be tailored to look like a stereo (meaning they will be like laying on the side). I'll digest the spreadsheet. thanks for setting this up. Has some interesting options.
  14. I looked at every major manufacturer, inc. Silverstone. which model are you referring to? the build will be neat by default since the SSd mainly will be m.2. that also makes it easy to work in. So i don't need elaborate cable management or hiding shrouds. Thermals and sound are important. but this will be a 65W CPU system with either an iGPU system , or a relatively weak GPU (I realize for an actually powerful gaming rig it needs a larger case). 2 120mm case fans should be able to cool it silently.A good dust filter system would be really good. I sometimes cycle my hardware around, or sell a system to a relative and then give them the case and hardware that fits them best (usually my lowest level). So getting one that is ITX would really be impractical since all my hardware is mATX. Cost should be low like the Rosewill, but could be like a Fractal Design, if it is the same level of quality.
  15. I want to build a PC that only uses m.2 SSD. No need for HDD/DVD. Here is what should fit in: Maximum board size would be mATX ATX bottom-mounted and easy to maintain filter one to two 2.5" SSD iGPU or a smaller graphics card ideally 2 front 140mm fans, alternatively 2 120mm fans. Easy to maintain filter. A bottom fan with easily maintainable filter also would be good. air cooling only. I assume since the width is a minimum due to the ATX-PSU, it may fit a 120mm cooler. Alternatively 92mm cooler may be OK. Not looking at more much than 65W TDP CPU. Easy to clean air filter for all intake fans inc. PSU. Something what Fractal Design does with the Define units would be great. All the cases still have the space in front for HDD/DVD and possible radiators. That adds about 10-12 cm to the depth of the case and is not used in my build. Many cases also have options for top radiator, which again wastes space for my case. Since the maximum is two 2.5" SSD, this also would cut down on cable management needs. Something like a small FD Refine, but shorter and lower. Ideally price and quality are not worse than Fractal Design. I don't care for a window, but it wouldn't be a dealbreaker since my planned build would be very neat. Since this build doesn't really require much actual building, I also would look at a lower quality than FD if needed. It seems most cases are still built for HDD. I realize people still buy them new, or have old ones. But I want to build a PC that has the absolute minimum only and has a case as small as possible. I don't want an ITX case, since I want to use the cheaper and more available mATX hardware. Without HDD space it should be possible to make an mATX case almost as small as an ITX case. I also recycle my main rig hardware (mATX) in this smaller build. I realize this case will be useless for someone who needs 3.5" drives. the closest what I found is this Rosewill FBM-X2 for around $40 it holds 1 HDD, so they could still make it a bit shorter without that HDD space. I'm also not sure about the PSU dust filter. Please point me in the right direction. Thanks.