rhanson

Thanks all. It turns out the faceplate is faulty. If I hit the connection in exactly the right spot I get data transfer as expected in any configuration. If I'm slightly out I can still get LAN and WAN detection but no connection back to the ONT via WAN. I'm guessing maybe some of the pairings are loose. I appreciate the quick responses.

When I try logging in to the router it just times out. Do you think I should try get on a support call with my ISP (Vodafone/BT) or do you think maybe speaking with Openreach (ONT provider) would be a better directed approach? I'll see how expensive a crimp tool is to great my own male terminal with the wires in the faceplate to see if it is the faceplate or if there is something else. I'm wondering if the resistance going through the faceplate is too high as I don't think the ONT is rated for PoE - the signal might be strong enough to register a connection to the internet but the connection link is too weak to be usable.

The cable was definitely tested (farther-in-law who is an electrician fitted it) and I watched it being tested. Via LAN i get my max download speed and my link speed is still 1 Gbps. To confirm the pathways in your design: Nokia --> CAT6 to WAN --> CAT6 from LAN through wall --> faceplate --> CAT6 to end device. This works. Nokia --> CAT6 through wall --> faceplate --> CAT6 to WAN ‐‐> CAT⁶ from LAN to end device. This does not work. But indicator LEDs suggest no issues. So the 'not working' path has two CAT6 cables coupled before reaching the hub - that is the only real difference. For the connecting CAT6 cables I've tried all the ones I have in the house so I can confirm it is not relating to them.

I'm not sure if this is the best place to post this so please feel free to redirect. I have an Openreach ONT (UK, I think it is a Nokia G-010G-R). I recently had a new Cat6 RJ45 cable installed to run upstairs and it terminates as a faceplate so I can reposition my broadband hub. However when I plug the cable into my ONT and then my hub WAN port into the faceplate via another Cat6 cable I get no internet connection. Both the hub and the ONT show all the expected LEDs to suggest no issues. However, if I plug the ONT directly into my hub WAN (downstairs) then use a LAN port for the new cable I can plug any device into the faceplate upstairs and the internet connection is fine. The cable has been tested and all 8 channels appear to be fine both pre and post the faceplate. Any ideas as to why I can get a LAN connection through the cable but not a WAN connection? The cable run is about 5 meters.

@RONOTHAN##@podkall@Eigenvektor@mariushmthanks for the contributions. I'll go NVMe boot. Out of interest, how important is cache on a boot/OS drive? (ignoring sharing system memory over PCIe). In my PC i have two cache-less NVMe drives that work fine for me but I want to upgrade the capacity of one (because of game sizes etc.). If cache isn't too important, I could clean the drive and hand it down for boot.

So the concensus is boot from SATA or boot from NVMe? This will be non-gaming, but lots of small file copying etc so random read/write performance is likely the only storage stat that she will care about other than time to boot.

Hi all, For SSDs, if everything else is equal (cache, NAND type, capacity, price, etc), is it better to boot from NVMe and store on SATA or the other way around? Context: in the near future I am building my partner a solid office PC that should hopefully last years (not a heavy user). However, in the short term I want to trial out building a local server and I need to buy at least one of the above. I will buy the other when needed for that PC but I'm looking to spend as little as possible now. NOTE: at this time, I do not care about performance as a server drive. Ideally I want the smallest boot drive (with cache) I can get away with and the largest storage drive (also, with cache). I'm getting the smaller of the two now for the above project. It seems that at the moment there is almost no difference in price between NVMe or SATA in the 250-500 GB range (excl. Gen 5).

Thanks. I might give it a go and do some 30 min cinebench and furmark runs - see if I have any performance drops from either GPU or CPU and check temps. Ideally I want to be on the lowest RPM I can while keeping temps sub 75C where I can - leaves plenty room for hotspots. I do have a rear exhaust but it's not a great fan (case included one) so I tend to only have that turn on at very high temps. I'll do some tests when I get a chance and post my findings in here if there is any realistic difference (I'm going to guess not though).

So what I mean is, my top mounted fans are not touching each other horizontally. Like they're in my case as normal but I have the choice to have the pushed up against each other to create a "wall of fans", or I can have them spread out a bit. Just wondering if it makes an ounce of difference having them paired up right next to each other or with a bit of space between them both. These ones are not on a rad.

My case has enough room to have my top exhaust fans not physically touching with just over an inch of space. - They are NF-S12A PWMs. In terms of airflow is it better to have them touching so there is no gap between them, or have them with a gap and spread them out? To note: I have a front facing 240 mm AIO so my case air is on the warmer side, and I like to run my fans as quiet as I can without torturing my PC. My thought is the "gap" will actually pull air out of the case too due to the pressure difference from inside to outside, as that is the principle of filling up an inflatable quickly. Could cooling fans work the same way? Theory: It is faster to initially fill up an inflatable with a high pressure hose that is not sealed against the inflatable, as the air surrounding the hose will be sucked in too (this is the how emergency inflatable ramps on aircraft fill so fast, rocket/explosion + passive suction of air). However, that principle falls down once the inflatable is beginning to fill and the pressure difference equal out at which point a sealed inlet or more power is the only way to keep the inflation going.

Thanks! I knew I was looking into this too much. Do you know what sort on impact using a device like the above would have on input/output latency? As I mentioned, the monitor latency isn't an issue as this will be a non-gaming focused display but the mouse and keyboard will have occasional gaming use. Don't worry if that isn't something that can be tested without LTT Labs.

I have an MSI B550m Pro-vhd WiFi that I really wasn't looking to replace however, after reading around it looks like it would not support a thunderbolt PCIe card - something I was looking to purchase. Is there a list of known B550m boards that do support thunderbolt add-ins or is it only B550 full and X570? Alternatively, maybe I'm looking at this in the complete wrong way: I have a work laptop (11th gen intel) and home desktop (amd) with a shared keyboard, mouse, and monitor (plus a further monitor that has 2+ display inputs). Neither of my monitors have upstream USB and only one has 2+ display inputs. So I need a much smoother way of transitioning between work and play, across two machines, without having to do any leg work. I don't want a software solution as they are never perfect and I am also trying to reduce the bulk of connectors to my work laptop for cable management. At the moment, my single port monitor I am dealing with as I have a HDMI switcher on it (it isn't gaming focused so not worried about latency on that one), but moving my keyboard and mouse around is laborious and every other week I work at my office, not home, so disconnecting and hiding 1 cable rather than 4 would be quite nice. My thoughts were to pass everything through a thunderbolt kvm+usb switch.

Thanks. I just looked up the AOC 27G2 as I'd prefer 27" and looks like its either unavailable or discontinued in the UK market. Is the 27G2U the same? Its the only one I can find and its £240 on Amazon.co.uk. Prices in the UK are slightly higher than US (I see you're in Germany though) so I'd guess with the larger panel size that this seems to scale well.

Thanks for the comment. I won't be able to regularly hit anywhere near those framerates though with my setup and game preference so I'd be looking at downscaling to 1080p which just looks mushy on 1440p. I just won't benefit from that kind of display for at least another couple of years. I also do a lot of work/chat on my PC which is why I was looking for the dual monitor set up. I'll certainly keep those monitors in mind if I stumble across a gpu that will benefit

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a dual monitor set up (pref 27" not ultrawide). Ideally I want two IPS panels because well I like colour accuracy. I'm rocking a 1660s and 3600 so realistically for the next year I won't realistcally be going above 144fps at 1080p or 75fps at 1440p but I really want to utilise the extra pixel density of the higher res panel. I was thinking about getting a high refresh 1080p monitor for competitve FPS games and a moderate refresh rate 1440p monitor for scenic games. BUT I also want the monitors to visually identical becuase.. well symmetry. I'm not likely to upgrade my GPU/CPU for a good while so I don't see myself needing higher refresh rate monitors than these. This is what I have found so far (I'm aware the description of the 1440p one is VA but I'm guessing that is wrong): https://www.box.co.uk/AOC-Gaming-27G2UBK-27-Full-HD-IPS-Free_2766292.html https://www.box.co.uk/AOC-Q27G2UBK-27-QHD-FreeSync-144Hz-Gam_2869502.html Are these good deals? Or am I barking up the wrong tree. Any help would be appreciated. Peripherals are not my strong point as its a minefield

Hi everyone, I'm currently building a mid-high end system (min ryzen 7 3700x/intel i7-9700k, 2070s/2080s - all depending on deals and the new gen zen/nvidia). I'm wondering what (if even possible) can I do if I want to say stream games off it to a remote laptop on the same network, while another member of my household uses the pc for work/watching videos/playing light games. Any tips (preferably free solutions) would be great. Oh and I'm UK based so my internet connection speed isn't amazing!

@BlueScope819 thanks for the quick response. That seems a decent build, is it worth pushing further for a ryzen 7 or an intel i7-9700k (or intel similar) with respectiveboard? @Oswin looking to finish build around early September (birthday project). Bang for buck wise, should I hold out or go higher end amd/intel now? Also yes budget includes peripherals. Thanks both

Budget (including currency): £1000-£1600 (can go higher but ideally not) Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: mainly shooters (casual style), racing sims, some python/java (personal projects rather than work related), stream to other parts of the house. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I'm looking for a new build plan from the ground up, high fps to 1080p/1440p with scope to upgrade to good hdr monitor in future. I currently don't have a desktop or any peripherals that are mine (currently using ones borrowed from work to wfh). Only caveat is I like discrete systems. No (or switch-offable) rgb or and weird looking peripherals or case. Basically something that looks relatively like a productivity pc with the power to game well to very well for the next 5-10 years. Thanks everyone. I'm happy for US/Canada/Australian input too as I imagine pricing isn't hugely different other than newegg which seems extortionate over here.

Thank you. Yes a little bit expensive but gives me an idea what/where to look.

Hi all, I am very new to PC building. I want to build a new PC following a similar schematic to an LTT video from a few months back (pre-pandemic) but I'm all about being discrete. In the video they use a Corsair Carbide SPEC-05, I'm looking for the nearest alternative case to this (price-wise as well) but with all metal panels. Thanks