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ChipsDotMp4

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  1. Hey! Just wanted to update, even though this was posted a while ago- somehow, without any action on my part, I noticed a little bluetooth icon on my taskbar this morning. Lo and behold, the card is now being read completely normally, and I haven’t done a single thing to try and fix it since checking the things you suggested. I guess perhaps Microsoft pushed a driver update or something, I’m pleasantly surprised but also confused as to why none of the things I tried worked.
  2. I think Alex Atkin may be correct. When I check the place in the BIOS where others have that option, I have no option. There is no mention of bluetooth anywhere in the BIOS.
  3. I bought a dirt cheap T-Force SSD to revive the old Haswell family PC and repurpose it as a media center, etc. This board has always been a nightmare to use with integrated graphics, but it seemed to get into the BIOS fine with them so I figured it was fine. I got windows installed, somehow, after having to pull the CMOS battery several times during the process. Now, unless I’ve pulled the battery, the system boots to a black screen with an A2 in the corner, which I’m told is an IDE error and something’s wrong with the drive configuration. The reason this is so frustrating is because the SSD is the only SATA device in the PC, I’ve unplugged the optical drives due to not needing them. The BIOS is the most recent version, downloaded directly from MSI’s website. The SSD is recognized as what it is in the BIOS. Windows boot manager is the primary boot device when I boot into BIOS. I put a brand new CMOS battery in thinking that might be the issue; it wasn’t. In spite of all this, the problem persists and I can’t boot into Windows unless I’ve taken the battery out. I doubt I have a hardware issue because when I do reset the CMOS and boot into Windows, everything works exactly as expected. Anything else I could try?
  4. I recently picked up a $25 HP ProBook 4540s from a recycling center to upgrade and use for basic media consumption. Naturally, I wanted to put a wifi 6 supporting card in it to replace the ancient card that came with the laptop. I also noticed that there was no bluetooth device in device manager in Windows 10, but figured the laptop must have just not came with any bluetooth as a cost saving measure. I bought an Intel AX210 Card and installed it, installed drivers and the wifi was working as expected, but there was still no bluetooth device in device manager, even after several driver uninstalls/reinstalls, checking services.msc, etc. Is it possible for a laptop motherboard, pcie interface, etc. to just not support bluetooth regardless of hardware?
  5. I just left the included thermal paste on there because I've heard it's not as bad as people say it is. It would be super easy to replace it though. I have the 2 included 140mm intakes and 2 120mm exhausts.
  6. Today I received my Ryzen 7 5800x and my Nzxt Kraken x63 to go with it. I installed everything and the system booted right up with zero issues. I am sure the pump is working as I can feel it. I have rotated the system every which way to try to get rid of air bubbles in the pump. However, while running cinebench multicore, the cpu hits around 88-89 degrees c, and only maintained 4.5ghz throughout the entire test. Is this too hot or an expected temperature?
  7. Lately I've been trying to get my hands on a 5600x (no luck, unfortunately), and noticed that it seems like the general consensus is that my regular 3200mhz c16 Corsair Vengeance might not be up to par to get the best performance out of this cpu, but since my memory is B-die I should theoretically be able to get a mild tune on it with no issues. My question is, would I see more benefit from tightening the timings to c14 with Ryzen DRAM Calculator, and keeping it at 3200mhz, or shooting for 3600mhz c16? I want to be reasonably conservative with my tune because the absolute geniuses that designed my motherboard decided to put the cmos battery right underneath the gpu meaning I have to take out my card every time I do something that makes my system not boot. Sorry if this is a dumb question, I don't know much about memory or how the timings work besides what the calculator tells me to put into the boxes.
  8. I have to admit, this question looks really stupid, but in my defense I was really tired when I posted it. I saw the bigger 24 pin connector slot and thought, "hey, that's all 24 pins!" without counting them to realize that no, it's not. I feel really dumb now.
  9. Hey guys, I was thinking about buying a Corsair Rm750x and I noticed it has one of those weird 10 pin ports on it. It seems like, according to a google search, it's a proprietary alternative to a 24 pin connector. My question is, can this 10 pin connector be used for other things, like providing a 3rd 8 pin for an rtx 3090 with an adapter? (I'm not buying one, of course, but just for the sake of the example) It's tough to find information on this, and I figured this forum would be the best place to ask.
  10. Windows recently started running disk checker on startup, and I think it's because I deleted microsoft edge's files completely, so it's throwing a fit saying there's an error. I checked the drive integrity with samsung's independent testing software, and it seems just fine, and when windows runs disk check, it lasts for 4 seconds and gives up and boots as per normal. Is it possible this is all a result of edge not being there anymore?
  11. The computer was shut down and the power supply was in the on position, plugged in.
  12. Unfortunately, I made the mistake of reseating my ram while the PSU was on and connected, and my PC now won't POST. My motherboard, an MSI X570 Gaming Edge Wifi (terrible motherboard for the money, trust me, I'm aware) has lights next to the dimm slots indicating the boot steps, and the dram light is the one it's getting stuck on. I have tried using both sticks by themselves in different slots. I have also cleared CMOS. When I turn the PC on, all fans start spinning, and all rgb turns on, and the PC does not boot and stays with the dram light on. However, some things I'm reading seem to think I fried my motherboard, not my ram. I have no other ddr4 ram available to me, so I can't try that. I also might mention that the rgb on the g.skill trident z rgb ram I have turns on even though the actual sticks don't appear to be working, not sure if that matters for anything. Is it actually possible I fried my motherboard/ ram by doing this?
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