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Lagombi

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About Lagombi

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  1. Hello, I recently put together my first gaming PC self-build, and I've had the machine for about 10 days. I haven't used it every day, but I have it it with a number of benchmarks, stability tests, and a few instances of actual heavy use. Problem is, everytime I turn it on, I'm met with a very noticeable smell that makes my throat feel like I need to cough. Managed to sniff it out to the power supply, I've stuck my nose up to different components far too many times in the past week and a half or so like a buffoon before I tried just powering on the PSU by itself to have a check. The unit is a brand new EVGA 750 B5, which I understand to be a fairly reputable model. I've used (and still have lying around) an EVGA 600B in a prebuild I ordered several years ago which I don't recall ever producing the same smell. I read up as much as I could about new PSUs smelling, some people say it's natural and part of off-gassing, others say it's gonna explode and destroy my entire PC. Delightful. I'm not sure I'd describe the scent as if it's burning or anything, it just smells like a garage. Maybe kind of like oil? Like a car? That's probably not exactly right but I don't know how else to describe it. As it is, it's been more than a few days now, and although I haven't used it every single day, I'd be certain that the smell would be gone by now. Additionally I can confirm that the fan is working, and it's been able to supply power for multiple stress tests, so I think if it was going to blow up it would have done so by now, but I'm just not sure! The power supply smell is just really bothering me! Does anyone else have any experience with this? Will it go away, or is something seriously wrong? If I do need to replace it, would my old 600W bronze PSU be capable enough to run my R7 3700x and RTX 2070 SUPER? Thanks.
  2. Looks like a pass to me! Also ran Heaven: 3280pts (same as 3200MHz) and Cinebench R20: 4650 pts (3 points higher lol) Guess that's fine, right? If my particular chip can't handle 3600 MHz then I guess I just mark this thread as solved? Thank you again for your time and patience.
  3. Ah, if it's the DNS that's the issue, you can actually change which DNS server you use within windows! There is a chance that your computer and your phone are operating on different ones. Our boy Linus made a video on Cloudflare DNS that might be helpful: However there are certainly multiple servers you can try, between your ISP's own DNS, Google's 8.8.8.8 DNS, cloudflare's 1.1.1.1, and more. I'm not 100% confident this is guaranteed to solve your problem, but it's worth trying. You could also try the speedtest with your firewall disabled to see if that has an impact, but I'm not sure you've made any changes to that.
  4. If you had an update before you noticed your WiFi speed plummeted, you could try opening device manager, selecting the adapter, and rolling back the device drivers. Or, if an update is available that you don't have, you could check for that on MSi's website. That's probably where I'd start first. If nothing else in your home has changed, just your internet speed dropping, then there is certainly a solution that doesn't involve another purchase.
  5. I know it's a bit of a silly question, but do you have the antenna attached to your computer's wifi adapter? (Assuming you're on a desktop computer) When I got a pre-made pc sometime in 2014 I actually had no idea I was supposed to screw this cheap looking piece of plastic onto the back of my computer, since no other devices I owned needed one to connect to the internet I'm willing to bet you're a bit smarter than me though, so let's start with what kind of wifi adapter you have. If it's fairly old, or is otherwise only rated for 2.4 ghz, it will surely run slower than your phone. Phones typically have very good wireless in them, and speedtest will run faster on my phone and laptop than on my desktop's wifi, even with a decent modern wifi card.
  6. Well, MAY would be correct in this situation since there is a chance you get shipped a board that doesn't include the updated BIOS. If you're planning on going to a physical location to buy your motherboard, you can look for an orange rectangle on the box that says the board is ready for Ryzen 3000, but otherwise there's no way to guarantee out of the box that it will be compatible until it arrives. (Maybe you can call the online store and check?) It does seem however like that board is frequently sold out on Newegg, so you might have luck finding a new one.
  7. I think this is what you mean, right? Lasted longer than the auto settings before it encountered a failure at least. Anything else worth trying?
  8. Things I did: - re-seat everything in my system - clear cmos - default the settings on my BIOS Testing ran fine on default settings, no cause for concern (other than that new metallic smell that is still bothering me). - Enable DOCP, select 3200 MHz (voltages are auto, a little scared of tinkering with that, and I didn't see anything labelled "SOC") The attached image here is after one hour of Aida64 stability test. Certainly did warm up my room a bit and got my throat feeling scratchy, but I guess that's what I can expect from the factory wraith prism cooler. No errors were reported here at 3200 MHz! Seems like it's plenty stable. I also ran Cinebench R20 - 4647 score at whatever default settings are preconfigured, and Unigine Heaven scores a 3280 at 1920x1080 extreme. Looked fine! Maybe some micro stuttering in Heaven but I don't think I see any reason to worry here? At 3600 MHz, we get "Hardware Failure Detected!" within the first five minutes or so of the stability test... However, Cinebench R20 scores a 4707 and Unigine Heaven scores a 3303. The min FPS was significantly smaller in Heaven, but otherwise I don't see any other issue. Again, I've never encountered any problems running at this speed before using Aida64. Memtest86 also detected 0 errors at this speed when I tried it earlier, so maybe it's unlikely in the real world that there'll be a problem with my system? I don't know. I'm not much of a tinkerer myself, so what would you do in this scenario? As a gamer/streamer, do I just accept the potential instability in a worst-case scenario, or do I settle for the seemingly minor performance hit and stay at 3200MHz? Is there an easy and beginner-friendly way to increment through potentially achieving that "stable" 3600MHz speed? Thank you for your time and patience.
  9. I completed my first build last week, specs of which I will post below: Motherboard: Asus TUF Gaming x570 plus CPU: Ryzen R7 3700x (with stock cooler) GPU: MSI GAMING X RTX 2070 SUPER RAM: G.Skill TRIDENT-Z 3600MHz ram 2x8GB Storage: WD BLACK SN750 NVMe PSU: EVGA 750B5 750w 80+ bronze I installed windows, all drivers, my games, enabled DOCP and started streaming Monster Hunter (a pretty demanding game!) the next day. No problems, everything looked good. One thing that bothered me though was the new hardware smell, so I had left Aida64 on a stability test and went away to eat lunch hoping that having all the fans running would air it out faster. Came back and I noticed there was a Hardware Failure detected! And the test was shut down. Restarted my computer and in what I believe to be an isolated incident, I was no longer able to boot into windows or repair windows and had to reinstall. I've run a few ~30min stability tests on the same Aida64 software since setting windows back up properly and noticed I only get that error to appear when DOCP is enabled and when I tell the software to stress the memory. I've never actually encountered any BSODs or strange behavior before the first time I ran Aida, and other benchmarks I've ran (including Memtest86) have returned adequate results, no errors. Since this is my first self-build I'm awfully paranoid that I've screwed something up royally. Does anyone else have experience with this? Are the Asus "ez mode" docp settings bad? Is there a potential problem with my hardware, or am I freaking out over something that isn't going to result in my machine exploding?
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