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Tiderfish

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  1. I figured out the issue on this and the problem is resolved. When I was formatting this SSD, I looked up the best file allocation size, and the article I read said the default of 4k was best. So I wanted to make sure it did 4K so I selected "4096 bytes" and did the format. Not sure if windows changed the default or what, but after changing to the actual "default" setting, and doing a full format, the speed is on par with the original drive, So I guess that is what I get for playing with the settings. What file allocation size do you guys use for large SSDs that will contain large files like games? Matt|ttaM
  2. Greetings, I am building a new gaming / workstation PC and running into an issue with my M.2 drives. I have an ASUS ROG Rampage VI Extreme and a i9 9920x. This board came with an daughter card that accepts 2x M.2 drives and slots them near the RAM modules. I know this unit will consume some PCIe lanes, and that is fine. I think I have a budget of 44 with this CPU/Mobo combo. Speeds were great with the first Samsung 1TB M.2 970 EVO Plus. They blew my SATA Samsung drives that are on a PCIe card out of the water! "Great," I thought. So yesterday I was in Microcenter, and saw an open box unit 2TB M.2 970 EVO Plus (Same unit, just twice as big) and had to have it. I plugged it into the DRAM.2 module, formatted it, and ran a quick diagnostic scan and performance test in Samsung Magician. The diagnostic came back clean. The sequential reads and writes were about halved. So I made sure the primary was still as fast as I remember and it was. I have searched before, and can not find much information about this DIMM.2 daughter card. So I don't know if one gets more performance or not. And I would also like to know what these LED jumpers do, as they make no difference as to what position they are in. So my question is this, is this card bad, or damaged? Or is the DIMM.2 card limiting my performance. I checked GPUz and the GPU is getting the full 16x lanes on the top slot. There is another slot on the motherboard, but it is under a large plastic beauty cover/ LED diffuser. So I fear the SSD will cook its self to death. Here is some info from the manual: I really want to know if I got a bum M.2 drive so I can exchange it during the return window.
  3. Well I got it all working, but not with the telescoping piece. When I measured the span distance between holes, I measured bottom of one hole to the bottom of the next. So that distance was ~31mm. This would have been fine, if my right angle fittings had their outputs in the middle which they don't. So it didn't work at all. And it was too short to go to the next hole. So I threaded the right angle fittings and measured the distance between them (facing each other). That distance was 15mm (caliper said 14.97mm). So I scoured the internet for a 15mm male to male fitting. The only ones I found were a week away. Then I found that Bitspower makes a ~14mm fitting that male to male, that has a swivel collar. The blueprints say it is really 13.8mm, but a review stated it was 14mm. So I figured with the O-ring squish it would be perfect. Best part is the Microcenter had it in-stock. So I assembled all three fittings, and it seemed like it was a bit too narrow, but I was able to thread the right angles into the water block. I had to do only a few turns at a time each to not force it in crooked. So if you have this waterplate and need to bridge the gap between the pump channel to the first outlet channel, you can buy these fittings and it will work. Now the GPU sits over top of them, and you can't even see them. Here are the parts I used: Keep in mind these part numbers are for the "black sparkle" finish, they do make other colors too. 14mm male to male coupler BP-BSRG (Bitspower homepage) 90-Degree Extender male to female BP-BS90R (Bitspower homepage) EKWB / Lian-Li O11D-DPG1 (O11Dynamic/Dynamic XL) O11D-DPG1 (EKWB homepage) Hopefully this helps someone in this same predicament. Matt|ttaM
  4. Great setup. I have always wanted to do this. More so I could dump the heat outside of my office and cool the PC at the same time. As for the car's fan, most older cars used belt driven fans, so they wouldn't work for this, however you could go to a junk yard and find a small AC fan that sits on the front of the condenser/ radiator stack and blows into the engine bay. But be warned. Most modern electric radiator fans are mega powerful. Like 60 amps @ 12VDC powerful. The manufacture uses a PCM unit to control the voltage in so they can modulate output depending on load. I learned all this the hard way when trying to do swap a belt driven fan to a e-fan on my truck without a PCM to modulate it. Basically it would run full chooch once the water got hot, and destroyed my battery. I could have fussed with it more, but in the end the goal was reliability, and the belt fan is reliable.
  5. Awesome thanks again for responding! The link i forgot to post was for a Koolance product. However I was able to source one tonight from Microcenter. They sell Bitspower fittings. The rest of the loop uses their fittings, and they have not let me down yet. https://koolance.com/dual-video-connector-adjustable-1-slot-spacing Its a bit pricey and shipping is at least $12. Not sure that $30 piece is better than this one from MC. that was $8 https://www.microcenter.com/product/602650/Dual_G1-4_Adjustable_Aqua_Link_Pipe_I_-_Silver_Shining Upon inspection of the telescoping fitting, it has a thinner shaft that telescopes on a larger shaft, and the seal is made by 2 presumably nitrile O-rings. Is that typical? It takes very little effort to slide it in and out. Matt|ttaM
  6. OOOOO see this is what I was looking for. Something kinda out of the box.Thank you for posting @Mick Naughty! I just know that if I get standard right angle fittings and a regular coupler it will be juuuust a bit too off to thread in. Do you have any recommendations brand wise? Any thing to look out for? I am looking at this one, but it doesn't say the inner diameter. Obviously I would like to keep that as large as possible. Matt|ttaM
  7. Greetings, Hope everyone is doing well. I have been making my first custom loop in a Lian-Li o11 dynamic XL case. I thought I was doing well when I found the water plate, open box, from Microcenter selling for a discount. However this thing has been a challenge to deal with. I measured and ran the tubes with a GTX 680 as a template to make sure the cables and hoses would fit. I wasn't sure what GPU I would buy, but after mulling it over since 2019, I decided to get a 4080. (RIP my wallet). I had seen several reviews and pictures highlighting how large it is, but seeing it in person left me stunned! The case swallows it whole, but the hose I ran from the pump channel in the water plate to the CPU is meant to go over the GPU, but this GPU is way to massive. Even if I move the hose to the second outlet, it will still have to cut over the GPU and get kinked. I would like to avoid using a hard tubed U bend. Does anyone know of a fitting that will make this turn? I looked on their site, and don't see cad drawings to figure out if a couple of right angle fittings and a male to male coupler would work. I know I can't bend the flexible tubing that tightly without kinking it. Unfortunately the loop is filled and burped. I also had the extreme foresight to crimp on the hoses with automotive one-time-use ear-clamps. Water Plate info is EKWB o11D-DPG1 Thank you for any and all help! Matt|ttaM
  8. Great setup and attention to detail. I am doing my 1st major water build, and got a set of primo chill hoses, that came with a bottle of system prep. I looked it up to see if it was worth it, and one of the videos I found said it did a great job cleaning out the sediment from the opaque shimmering liquids. I did a quick search but can't find the video. It was a British youtuber. So maybe try their reboot or sys prep liquids to clean all that crap out. Good Luck! Matt|ttaM
  9. Thanks everyone for the helpful tips and options. I should clarify, my buddy sold me everything I need to water cool the CPU, and VRM. The only thing I do not have is the pump. Well the pump and the reservoir since the one he gave me fits in a cdrom bay, and my case does not have one. To me this is kinda a starter system into water cooling. In the past, I bought a used system that was water cooled, but it was on a dead end AMD single core platform, I used it for a while, then disassembled it. I just want to get my feet wet... Basically I have the CPU block, VRM block is integrated on the motherboard, I have some barbs, hoses, and two radiators. I think one is 1x120mm, and the other is 2x120mm. The pump / reservoir is all I need to get started. After that, I will prolly replace the radiators with the largest the case will fit.
  10. Greetings, all I have been watching Linus for a few years now, and noticed he has a few favorite water pumps. The D5 seems to stand out in my brain. However I never really paid much attention because I never planned on water cooling my systems. I recently purchased my friend's old gaming rig, and some of his water cooling tech. It is a Asus Maximus V Formula motherboard, and a i7-7700k CPU. The motherboard has a VRM cooling block. At this time I am not planning on cooling the GPU but I probably will once I save up some cash. I searched his channel, and the only review for a water pump was from 2011 for Swiftech MCP655. I figure there must be a better solution by now. All the pumps they are using now have a built in reservoir. This would be ideal, because the case I am planning on using does not have a 5.25" bay to mount the reservoir I was given. My main concerns are low noise/vibration and high reliability. I have looked around a bit and am astonished how much they cost, so my budget is around USD$100. Thanks for your help, and I look forward to this community. PS. I did read the water cooling for newbs sticky, and while it has great information its from 2013, and doesn't really focus on specific parts. Thanks again, Matt|ttaM
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