Watercooledguy

I was under the impression that the png copy was in the same folder as the jpg ones, however after further research I found out that the png screenshots are saved in a completely different folder. Thank you for your reply though.

I have no idea what to do regarding this. I've tried to get some help through Steam and that was a waste of time, so I turn to the fine people here for aid. I noticed that my screenshots weren't very good quality and thought that I had unchecked the box by accident. However upon verifying that it was/is indeed checked it's still saving the screenshots as .jpg instead of .png. I've attached a screenshot of the options selected for taking screenshots and tested it twice after making sure it was checked and it's still saving them as .jpg.

Thank you so very much. I found the file on techpowerup site and cross referenced it with the file that came with F1 2021. The file that comes with the game is 2.2.9 and the newest one on techpowerup site is 2.2.11. I downloaded the new dll file and put it into the game folder replacing the original one and it has helped so much with the ghosting. It hasn't eliminated it, but it's hardly noticeable now which I can totally deal with. Thanks again. You are a MVP.

Hello, I was wondering if anyone was experiencing this issue in this game or other games. If you look at the antenna on the nose of the car, you can see a "ghost" image of it close to it. This is really noticeable going through turns, but I couldn't take the screenshot and drive through the turn at the same time, that's why the screenshot is on the straight part of the track. You also see the ghosting on other cars when they are near you. Anyways. My monitor is an LG 32GK650G 165Hz screen, and I am running a Strix 2070 Super, up to date drivers, with all settings in game at max at 1440p with dlss on and the game runs perfectly smooth. If I turn off dlss and switch it to TAA, then the ghosting goes away, but doesn't look near as good. If anyone knows of a setting I'm needing to change to fix this or if you want/need any more info, I will try to respond asap.

Yeah, I can't just take Asprin. I have to take the medicine the Dr. prescribed for me. Luckily it's not expensive, about a dollar a day. There are other people in this world that have to take medicine that is WAY more expensive than what I have to take. I feel for those people.

I've been on Lisinopril for 5yrs. I update my chart weekly with blood pressure and heart rate readings taken here at home. Due to covid, we were doing virtual Dr. visits which didn't cost me anything but I had to go in anyways because I was running out of refills and had to go to a Dr. so he could evalutate my chart and I could get new refills called in. They set me up for 4 90 day refills last year on my Dr. visit but I had insurance then and it only cost 56 bucks instead of 330. So I was forced to go to the Dr. with no insurance this time just so I could continue to take my medicine.

I am in this very situation right now. I can't get on my wife's insurance through her work till Nov. and I have high blood pressure. I had to stay on my medicine so I paid 330 bucks to go to a Dr. and tell him I needed blood pressure medication. He looked at my chart and said, where do you want me to call the prescription in for you? That's literally all he did, 15 sec. of work and his office made 330 bucks. Thank sweet baby Jesus that my pills aren't expensive.

yeah, i noticed that the case had limited air flow from the pics. I had a case like that back in 07 and I ended up drilling some holes in the front panel with a hole saw and mounting 92mm case fans as intakes.

Sounds like a bad mount to me. Take your pump block back off, clean your IHS with rubbing alcohol and a qtip then clean the heatplate off with rubbing alcohol and a qtip. Put new paste on and then remount the block. That is the safest way to do it.

He should have the rad mounted in the front then. If that's not possible due to tube length, then set the fans on the rad as intake and the rest of the case fans as exhaust.

With the plastic sheets in your case you are making the airflow more turbulent and thus slowing it down. The longer the air is in your case, the hotter it is going to get.

I agree with Jeppes, those fans on the radiator look like they are blowing out the front of the case. If you flipped the fans on the rad to be intake then you're good to go.

I tried what you suggested just for the hell of it, it only took 10 sec to move the 4pin over one header, and got the "no cpu fan" warning on startup, so I had to go into the bios and tell it to ignore the cpu fan header. It still throws up the code 33 after starting so I just put everything back to how it was again. I still feel like this is an architecture issue like with how it changes when I fire up Ryzen Master it changes to "d3". Anyways. Thanks for the suggestion. It was worth a try.

Hello, it's not so much that I "care" as than I'm curious as to why it changed. Implying that I care makes it sound like I'm having a negative emotional response to the fact that two letters changed to two numbers while my system continues to run as normal and that's just crazy. I am however, curious as to why they changed.

I have the Fractal Designs S36 AIO. It only has one 4pin plug that controls the pump and fans. It's plugged into the CPU fan header and the pump and fans are working normally. I'm beginning to think that this is an architecture issue with the BIOS. Just like when I start Ryzen Master the Q code goes to "d3". I restart the system and it goes back to AA. I needed to get some dust out of the case so this morning I cleaned everything off and while I had the case opened, I went ahead and reseated the RAM just to see. It didn't change anything but like you said, it's working normally so I'm not gonna worry about it anymore. The code doesn't make sense and the only change that triggers it is enabling the fTPM in the BIOS. I appreciate the help/suggestions. Thanks.