Semper

Looking to update from a CM600 that's sitting in front of a Unifi network in order to take advantage of the modern world. The CM600 exists from a time where Spectrum capped out at 200/10 in my area. The current entry level plan now consists of nothing less than 600/20. Spectrum has me listed as capping out a 480 down, though I'm currently running about half that - averaging 209/11 with a peak of 217/12 over the last 30 days), I've a tech appointment scheduled for this coming Wednesday to investigate that issue further. Looking to stay away from the Puma chipset for reasons obvious, however I know just enough to get myself into trouble when it comes to networking. Some of the options considered: Netgear CM1100 Arris SB8200 Motorola MB8600 Thoughts or considerations? Any additional options to consider? As always, any input is always appreciated!

it shouldn't give you much issue. I did much the same back when I had my 4790k. I did have to manually enable the iGPU in UEFI settings to get it to work, however. It may or may not be 100% plug-and-play in that regard.

Apacer PC5300. 1gb stick, 667mhz CL5, DDR2

AMD's Zen 4 is shortly around the corner. If you're absolutely adamant about the best of the best, wait it out. Realistically, a 5800x3D is competing for top CPU for gaming right now. it will be plenty capable for many years to come. It carries a reasonably heavy price tag though. A standard 5800x, or even a 5600x is plenty capable. Again, both of these will also be plenty capable for years to come. As far as GPU goes, realistically, the upper limit of RTX 3000 generation value-for-performance is the 3080. The 3080Ti, 3090, and 3090Ti all carry an ever increasing premium for an ever diminishing return on investment. Based upon the statement "high fps and 0 bottle neck", I think you need to understand how computers work. No matter the combination of components, you will have a bottleneck somewhere. There is no combination of hardware that exists today which will run in perfect parity. It's also a lot more complex than, as I said, "bigger number is more gooder". A high clock speed and loose timings on a memory set can negatively impact you over a lower clock speed with tighter timings. You also have to take into consideration infinity fabric timings, as they will play a role in limiting memory performance as well. I think you've some additional research and understanding that you need to do before you build your "dream" gaming system, least you buy components that actively diminish your experience whilst also costing more at the same time. I've no right to tell you what yo do with your money, however "most money = best" is a thoroughly foolish stance. Equally as foolish to act upon. Making intelligent, informed decisions is how you spend your money wisely.

Very first thing I think you need to to is take a step back and understand what you're building. To me it looks like you're falling for the classic "bigger number is more gooder". It is not. That 5950x very specifically in most situations offers no advantage. In some situations, it's actively a negative. In all situations, it's significantly overpriced for what you're getting out of it for a gaming rig. Much the same for the 3090ti. You're paying a very heavy premium for an underwhelming performance uplift. Now, with both of those out of the way, 4400 and 3800 are going to operate fairly similarly for a gaming rig. Both are outside the JEDEC rated speeds, and will require increased voltage. A quality board will be able to handle the added stress, however do note that any overclocking and particularly overvolting are added stress, heat, and wear and tear over time.

If your current system is insufficient for your needs, replace it. If it's not, don't. If it's some other limiting factor (I.E. running single channel 4GB RAM), improve it. That's ultimately what it boils down to. If you wait "just a little bit longer" because the "next generation is coming" you will, quite literally, be running your 7300hq for the rest of your life. What's releasing with next generation is in some regards, already outdated. The platform that will replace it, and the platform that will replace the platform that will replace it (I.E. two generations ahead) are already in the works, very likely further down the line are at some stage of development as well. Yes, AM4 is EOL, however I would not expect to see revolutionary gains with the first generation on AM5 (does it have an official designation yet?). You're also going to see an early adopter premium that will come with it. my 5800x is plenty capable, and I see no reason to believe that it's going to be earmarked as insufficient any time soon.

It signifies that it's a shortcut to the actual destination of the file. The only way I know to remove it involves a registry workaround, which is done at your own risk. https://www.windowscentral.com/how-get-rid-shortcut-arrows-windows-10

It's not coming from Amazon, it's a marketplace item, so all of the above are projected estimations based upon the location of the actual item in relation to how far it is away from you. Expect January 20-February 15'th to be your projected delivery window with any option. It may well arrive far sooner than that, however. The "usually ships" line is the general time-frame that it takes the seller to dispatch the item from their possession to whichever parcel carrier they use, not how long it will take to arrive at your door.

It's not much of an opinion there. In it's current iteration (with note that we're evolving towards a more month-long sales capture), the Black part translates, quite literally, to retailers making it out of the red zone. Sales on outgoing models, old new stock that didn't sell as expected are the first to hit the chopping block to meet that transition into positive revenue. For retailers that generally operate in the black as a whole, it's purely a day to move old stock to make room for incoming products. They may also have special "editions" of popular selling items (with stripped down features, lowering cost, and subsequent retail price for the illusion of a good deal) specifically built for Black Friday "deals". It's commonplace with TV's, or at least it was last time I was looking, which admittedly has been about a decade ago. Black Friday has a couple of distinct different meanings throughout history, but it's current iteration is, generally speaking, to move old stock.

Largely because "why not?" They have a market that will buy them. Generically speaking: The Titan series fit in the gap between gaming and workstation. They offer top-tier gaming performance, at a cost that makes it a very poor value proposition, however on the workstation front, they offer a decreased workstation performance platform at a lower level cost. If you fall in that gap above gaming performance, but below a multi-thousand dollar workstation card, the titan makes sense. work during the day, play games at night.

If the ISP isn't providing one, you may need to contact them and/or check their website for supported modem models. It's entirely possible that there are VDSL modems that they don't actively support. VDSL isn't in widespread use as it has fairly strict range limitations, choices are fairly limited.

The only way there is - by consuming HDR content.

I've absolutely no experience desoldering the LED's on the modules themselves, so I'll be of no help there. No, they're not batteries - in the direct sense anyway (capacitors have a sililar concept to batteries in that they "store" energy, however it's not the same implementation as a traditional battery). They're either going to be capacitors or resistors. I know next to nothing about integrated circuits, so I won't be able to tell you which of these they are. Educated guess suggests to me resistors, but take my input with a HUGE grain of salt.

It's not a permanent solution, as the LED status is lost on reboot. Something like OpenRGB is going to be your best bet. It's lightweight, open source RGB control, set your lighting preferences and shut it down, or leave it running in the background. https://openrgb.org/ After that, you're going to be best off replacing your RAM sticks with non RGB options, selling your current sticks on the used market.

the MB520 RGB is capable of supporting either a 120 or 240mm rad up top.

It is, yes. Depending on your specific setup, however, your CPU may not have onboard graphics, which would mean you have no display output without a GPU.

There's no direct answer to your question as of current. You can compare two or more specific units to each other, however as a blanket whole, you can't. Corsair has both fantastic and terrible units Seasonic has both fantastic and terrible units.

open up a powershell terminal (WIN + X -> Windows Powershell) and run an SFC check SFC /scannow see if it kicks back any errors, if it does, see if it's able to correct them, and see if the issue persists.

Generally, just pick one. They're all going to have similar construction quality properties at a given price point. Something at the $25 price point isn't going to be made as well as something at the $250 price point Neewer is a good place to start. https://neewer.com/products/microphones-accessories-40063970

In regards to this specific section, yes, Gallium will very quickly eat through aluminum. Copper, however, no. It will penetrate the surface and discolor/ mark the copper, however it will not destroy it, nor does this permeation appear to negatively, or positively, impact thermal performance. I ran thermal paste both under (delid) and atop of my 4790k on an EKWB copper block for several years with no issue. Long term testing by multiple outlets I'd consider reliable shows similar results. Matter of fact, I'm still using the same block for my 5800x, and it's rocking along perfectly okay. There are situations where liquid metal can be beneficial. My 4790k, for example, being one of them. I saw temperature improvements of ~10-15c after delidding.

Entirely false advertising, sorry. It's the typical "1000% better" or "moar biggerrer number is more bestesterer" chinesium. It'll perform on par with a more well established name at best. It'll under perform in all likeliness.

Yes. It can be, and it is.

If you have a clear block on top of anything in your loop, you'll be able to see evidence of mild growth in the low-flow corners and/or around the fins. If you don't, removing the cold plate/block top will show you what's going on. If it's substantial growth, you'll see it in your reservoir, your tubing, and your block(s), it will almost never reside exclusively in your radiator. Often times the fluid itself will show discoloration and particulate matter. (note, some coolants do have a natural discoloration to them even when new) It's advised against using vinegar on anything nickel plated as it may strip the plating. It's discouraged to use vinegar on anything plexi/acrylic, aggressive chemicals can cause it to crack and/or fail prematurely. This is of particular concern with alcohol/acetone/mineral spirits/etc.

1. Shouldn't be necessary, unless you've had growth in your loop. Assuming your loop was cleaned properly before initial use, there's no reason to introduce vinegar now. 2. Cleaning recommendations vary based upon fluid type. General rule of thumb is a good flush every 12 months. Some will recommend 24 months, some six months. some are as little as a few days (PrimoChill Vue, for example). If you're switching from a dyed liquid to a clear, you will want to remove every component, open everything you can, and scrub it all. You'll get rid of most of the dye, but it's nigh impossible to get it all. You'll likely want to completely replace your tubes as well, as they will have plasticized to some degree, and leeched some of the color into their walls. 3. If you feel the need to disassemble your block to clean it, toothpaste can be used to good effect. Give this video a watch from Jay. That said, it shouldn't be necessary, again, unless there's been some growth. A thorough flush should work.

If this is your working plan, skip the chassis. go with an open air test bench style platform. add fans to the radiator, use a box style fan for everything else. I see no reason to do this, however. If you've any level of respectable cooling, it shouldn't matter if it's two hours or 24 when it comes to games, you should be staying cool enough to run normally. What temperature you'll be running will be entirely relative to your ambient temperatures. If your ambient temps are above 30°, no, you will never achieve anything at or below ambient without more exotic cooling plans.