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Wizwerd

Member
  • Content Count

    61
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About Wizwerd

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7-6850k 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor (OC 4.2GHz)
  • Motherboard
    Asrock x99 Extreme4 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengence 3600 (32) x4 8gig CMW16GX4M2Z3600C18
  • GPU
    ZOTAC RTX 2080TI AMP MAXX 11g GDDR6
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R5 Mid Tower ATX
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M.2 NVME SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750x
  • Display(s)
    (Main) Sceptre E255B-1658A 24.5" 1920x1080 165 Hz Monitor
    BenQ GL2460HM 24.0" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor
  • Cooling
    Noctua UH-U12a
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K95 RGB Platinum XT
  • Mouse
    Corsair Scimitar
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home Edition
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Alright I looked into it a bit more, so they do have clamps which look like these https://www.ekwb.com/shop/tube-clamp-pvc-13-15mm-black So hes saying I put this on the soft tubing side so the barbed stays attached? I read their article on fittings a couple of times over, It didn't sink in at first but I think I'm willing to compromise on zmt if it means I can get a compression fitting on there so its better secured. also didn't realize that the ID didn't matter in this case because they're both 10mm its that the OD is 1mm larger on the hard tubing.
  2. yeah I contacted EK and they responded saying: Hello, Thank you for contacting us today you would need a f-f extender so you could connect the hard tube fitting on one side and the soft tube on the other side, unfortunately, the only 13mm soft tube fitting we have that would work with the zmt would be these which are just barbed fittings not full fittings so you would still need a clamp with them https://www.ekwb.com/shop/fittings/barbed-fittings/for-13mm-1-2-id-tubing and the f-f extender would be one like this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-12mm-f-f-g1-4-black If you have any other questions or need any additional help please feel free to ask Best regards, Chris I don't think I fully understand. Do the tubing sizes need to be the same on the ID or would the soft tube be ok being smaller? I figured if the ID was smaller then the pump will just have a little more head pressure to deal with which is fine since I'll have 2 pumps. Since chris said only the barbed fittings will fit and that i'll need a "clamp" with them, I'm not sure what the clamp looks like in this case or if they even sell them. yeah that's a good idea but the only quick disconnect EK has is this 10 mm coupling and based on the details I think my tubes don't match up? 10/13mm (soft) tubing and two additonal clamps are designed to be used with 10/16mm (hard) tubing? Negative nancy man I've seen p3 builds with distro plates attached where you would put the radiator and they look awesome but bykski was the only manufacturer that even made a specific distro for it and it has a ddc pump with a lot of bad reviews. The dimensions show that the distro I ordered fits the space so there shouldn't be any "dead space". Worst case scenario is that the mounting screws don't line up with the holes provided on the p3. For that I can get a bracket and make holes for the mounting screws so it will fit. I've been working on this build for several months now so I'm not exactly linking parts willy nilly. I tried contacting several custom distro shops to see if they could fabricate a custom plate but they refused since it probably didn't seem worthwhile for them and suggested using one of their universal distro's instead. I didn't do that cause their universal ones look ugly imo. When it came to fittings I had overlooked that most people don't ever connect soft - hard tubing and I assumed EK with their standard tubing sizes would be able to match something like this but I was wrong, my mistake. I didn't do enough research on the tubing because I didn't think it would be a potential problem, just pick a size that you think looks good and match the fitting and you're all done! Well that was true until I decided on this MO-RA3. Although the picture I linked looks fantastic I didn't really care to have my radiators hanging off the top/side of the case. If anything I thought it would be easier to use this MO-RA3 and just run a soft tube to it. No big deal right? Don't be so quick to judge what It will look like man. I picked the case because of how easy it is to see and reach everything. Don't have to struggle to get your fingers to screw something inside of a blocky case. I was going to wall mount both the case and the rad but I don't think I can hang 40 pounds of weight on the walls next to my desk : / Now that I think about it, I could get fittings/tubes from another website. Sorry for the wall of text lol, I'm just so frustrated with trying to find what seems like simple answers to simple questions and being judged on the entire build without a straight answer to the original question.
  3. Hey guys, I'm trying to finish my parts order for my custom loop. I'm planning on connecting my loop to an external mora3 radiator and I wanted to have the hard tubes from the top of the distroplate reach over the back of the case and connect the hard tubes to soft tubing (zmt) type tubes and from there reach to the d5 pump that I'm attaching to the radiator. My problem is that I don't know what fittings or size tubing I need to connect my 14mm acrylic tubing from EK in order to do this. I had some help in discords but I'm trying to finish the ordering process and I wasn't able to get clarification. So far from what I understand is that I need x2 f-f adapter but after that im completely lost. I listed my current parts list order so feel free to critique but I'm pretty set with the list so far. I understand that the distroplate isn't made for my case but I'm trying to see if I can mount it anyway. The dimensions will fit but I expect that the mounting screws on the back might not and that I might need to make adjustments to the case in order to make it fit. If it doesn't I can still return it. I drew a picture with how I planned on having it sit on my desk, I do have enough desk space to fit both the case and the rad. Thought I'd share my thought process on this a bit more. I saw some guy cut a hole in the mora feet for his hard tubing to pass through, I thought it was a cool idea and that I might try that out as well.
  4. Currently thinking about getting a watercool MO-RA3 and putting Corsair QL120's or QL140's (9 fans total) in my custom loop build, everything is copper/nickel but the fins in the radiator are aluminum. is that ok? or will they be susceptible to corrosion? I know that most AIO's mix metals but they have specific coolant to prevent corrosion in their own products but I'll be mixing products with this build. If that won't work well then I was thinking about getting x2 360 Corsair or HWL black ice GTS 360 30mm rads instead. I also wanted to know if the QL's in general were ok for radiator fans? They seem to get a lot of flack for performance but the spec's on corsair's website seem good. I'm not sure how much "static pressure" is needed for thick or thin radiators but I read that My case is a core p3 and I'm also looking for a good distro plate to put on it but there is only one made for it and its a ddc pump which I really want to stay away from. I've read a ton of bad reviews about DDC pump failures, loud operation noise, and lower performance in general. I reached out to a couple of custom distro plate shops but they won't make a custom one to fit and suggested using one of their universal distro plates instead. I thought their universal ones were kinda ugly so right now i'm looking to see if I can't make an O-11D D5 distro plate from EK or something similar in dimensions fit instead. Sorry if I seem everywhere with this post but this build right now I've been working on has had me struggling for weeks.
  5. i-10900k is notorious for being a very spicy CPU. Power hungry, and runs hot as heck
  6. You heat it with a heat gun to make it bend then place it in the mold and allow it to cool for the bend to take place. It doesn't take long to cool down and should mold just fine. I did watch someone on YT use lego's as a mold but I haven't tried it myself.
  7. Tech yesterday was my last day but since I called amazon and complained and proved the bearings were bad they let me return it today. Now I just have to hope I can press purchase in time when the 3080 ti's come out
  8. @Windows7ge thought i'd give an update. I'm returning the GPU for a full refund today. Hoping that I can get an EVGA or founder's card or just wait for the 3080 ti and see if i can't snag one.
  9. Never heard of XSPC until now. I just went to check out what they had and I have to say its aesthetically disappointing. Its not compatible with any RGB software. Right now i'm trying to get everything sync'd up with my iCUE profiles cause I bought their k95 plat xt keyboard and the profiles are amazing. I went with an ASUS mobo because they had a plugin for it in iCUE but I'm trying to find out if EKWB can be configured through iCUE from Asus Aura Sync. Also trying to find out if I buy an EKWB controller or do I use the iCUE commander/controller.
  10. Hey everyone! Currently trying to find out if I can sync all my rgb to work from my iCUE profiles. In my current planned build I'm going to have an ASUS Z490 GAMING E mobo and I planned on going EKWB for the custom loop. I emailed EK support and they could only confirm that their RGB software is compatible with ASUS Aura SYNC. If I can control ASUS aura sync from my Icue profile then I should be able to control the custom loop as well right? Do I buy an iCUE commander and plug all the EK rgb into it in order to control it? or do i buy an EK controller and run it from iCUE? If anyone can answer this complex question that would be awesome! I'd rather not have to build my custom loop with Corsair if I didn't have to because I wanted to go with a distro-plate d5 pump instead of a pump from corsair. Also my GPU isn't compatible with Corsair Waterblocks, I'd have to buy one from bykski.
  11. yeah, the GPU block will be from bykski so it should be a good block. Trying to stay away from corsair water cooling as best as I can.
  12. yeah, I really only plan on using this GPU for a year or two and then I might sell it for $500-$600 or w/e I can get for it. I might only have to wait a month or two before I do my custom loop so when I go to apply new paste later this week I'll poke around but very very carefully lol.
  13. I've had this GPU for about a month now, the fans have been rattling since I got it. I don't really want to return it cause the card isn't broken and it seems fixable. I also read RMA reviews from Zotac from similar cards that people have sent it back for an RMA and the problem wasn't fixed. I'd rather try and see if I can fix this myself. I've looked at the fans and spun them and they don't make this rattle noise when I do it only when its running in the case. Do you guys think its the bearing? Can I just put some oil on it and see if that'll work? Never taken apart one of these before but I figured I was going to eventually. I plan on putting a waterblock on this bad boy when I build my custom loop. I did get some Hydronaut paste from thermal grizzly, I did plan on putting a fresh coat of that later on this week. This card can get really hot if I don't actively have MSI afterburner on to regulate the fan speeds. One time I forgot to start afterburner and the card started cooking itself at 88c after an hr of RDR2. I only caught on when I smelled something burning but that was almost two weeks ago. I did think about returning it a couple of times but the only available 2080 TI's left are over $1400 easy if you can even find one. If I did return it i'd probably wait for a 3080 at this point. IDK what do you guys think, fixable? Return it? Wait to waterblock it? I appreciate any replies & responses thanks. rattling_gpu_fan.mp4
  14. yeah, I am going to water cool but this gaming desktop I'm building as a DIY project just put me $500 in the hole so I have to wait on the Watercool setup for the time being. I think the 10700k is the perfect cpu for what im trying to do atm.
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