gzalewski

I was looking at the first built pictures thinking "boy even though those crooked runs bug me a bit, it subtracts nothing from the awesomeness of this build..."

Then I scrolled down and saw the adjusted picture... its pretty much 10/10.
 
Well done dude! #goals

I still expect Linus to try to put two in a system.

UPDATE 3.0 - HOW TO LOOP, NO I'M ASKING YOU?   Back again with another nudge in the right direction. Gonna be picture heavy but convey little progress, so strap in. haha   In update 1.0 (seeing as update 2.0 was just a gallery)  we left off with slight mods to the vert GPU mount. So I guess we can take it from there.    ...   The Aorus Xtreme is a monster! with the block on and sat vertically in a position to allow enough clearance for the SE360 + 25mm fan it all but blocks out the CPU block... and you'd not know I have a chipset block on there either... But I kinda like it. It's a great looking GPU block and with yellow coolant in that area of the case, it should balance well with how I see it looking finished (in my head).   ...   I sat back and thought two things... terminal and parallel.    ...   I'm fully not a member of the 'RGB everything' way of life... but love how picking a single colour from any number of hues can make for a great-looking build. Long gone are the days of soldering inline resisters to 3mm LEDs to 5v/12v molex feeds. But, tbh, that's all it took to make a CPU/GPU block look awesome!.    ...   So I decided to swap out the default terminal on my GPU block for one of the more OG EK types from an old GTX980 STRIX block I still own.     ...   Aesthetics weren't the only reason, the DRGB terminals are larger (blocking more of my Magnitude block) and they have a wire that I can't sleeve! (aaargg!!) dangling down to the backside on the block.   ...   Ah yes... that's it. loads better! So now I got excited! Without the distro, I'm still to decide on a loop... but the idea of going parallel was shaping up to be a good one. Now, it doesn't line up.. its about 5-6mm off at a 60' angle.  In my head, that wasn't gonna be a problem. A slight off bend in the tube might swallow the difference or maybe get more creative, take the CPU down off 90's and tight bends back up to the GPU.    ... ...   But in reality, once I'd put fittings on both blocks, the wiggle room was minimal. Now if I were Alex Banks I'd design and CNC my own terminal to offset the alignment. and, whilst I've used Fusion360 in the past, I couldn't genuinely see myself finding the time to pull it off. SO with my thoughts of parallel wonderment fading I thought... I'd try some offset fitting...   ...   NOPE!   It looks so busy! I don't like it. so parallel is out.    ...   This thing by the way! is a game-changer, now to be fair, EK must be the LAST company to put these into their fittings but with this little tool, getting them off is a breeze. I'm not too much a fan of using it to put them on though. I think most leaks are due to crushed o-rings. Using one of these to tighten your fittings is too easy over tighten.    So with the parallel thing off the table, I took another look at the layout.   So many ppl have built great looking rigs in this case, looking for inspiration was easy enough. a simple hashtag search on Instagram got the juices flowing and it kept pulling me in the same direction.    I want my rads blowing out the case with as much air being pulled in through the dust filters on the rear panel. So I got to it.   I did a couple of Instagram stories on daisy-chaining rad fans (go check em out) then set to putting my beautiful FLT 360 in place.    ... ...   Oh yes, this thing is solid! and just oozes quality and it should right, they demand a pretty penny! It just makes so much sense! I fully intend to use others in future builds. I truly see a 120 DDC version being my PUMP/RES of choice in all future ITX builds.   But at this point, it was looking like perhaps I couldn't use this one...   If you fit it directly to the mid-wall it'll block off 95% of all air that could be pulled in from the back. Plus, as its the D5 version it a pretty close fit in the back chamber too. So, use the supplied brackets right?? Well, doing that pretty much blocks off front res in/out ports (yeah you can use the ones on the bottom, maybe... but that fill port is only on the front! Something I'd like to see EK change).   So I wrote off the D5 and reached out to EK for the DDC version. The DDC version has smaller brackets (DDC pumps are not as deep) so with the DDC version I thought the bracket would still enable clearance for the top/bottom ports but more importantly, I'd be able to fit a further three Varder fans behind it, really use the space and make the most of the chassis design.    but actually. no. even the DDC brackets would stand the res out to proud, meaning I'd not be able to get my fittings installed.    So I made my own brackets... kinda.   ...   I had these spaces from a CPU HSF from years ago... I thought if I cut them down to about 15mm that'll provide enough clearance for the fittings and enough airflow for two varders (not three as the D5/DDC would still foul the midpoint) to pull in that beautiful clean flittered cool air.    ...   ...   ...   Looks pretty good right? I did consider making six but... er.... yeah I totally f**ked up two attempts at jr hacksaw cutting a straight line, so after some filing down I settled on four. In that top image of the spacers, you see some rubber inserts.. yeah, that didn't work out either.    So how is the clearance I hear you say...?   ...   Pretty good.    OH!!!! Before I forget! in my photos in the last update.. turns out I'd mounted the chipset block upside down!!! At the time, I'd not thought that possible. Plus, I'd already boot tested it without a loop, as, if you can remember, I dropped the whole thing shooting the Magnitude block.    ...   Do you see the cutaway near the sticker? yeah, I didn't. lol... its the right way round now and it booted that time so I'm pretty sure it's not fried.    ...   Love these Torque fittings! it's as though the more adapters you add, the cooler it looks!!!   ... psst, the block is still the wrong way round in that shot. But let us move on.     FAN CONTROLLERS!!   The choice is huge!!! or is it. Having pretty much exclusively built ITX WC systems fan controllers just weren't needed. I'd put the pump RPM signal through a fan header and daisy (if needed) the rad fan(s) off the CPU fan header. I'd pretty much set a custom curve based on GPU temp in software where I could, or set a curve in the BIOS based on CPU temp.    Then I built MODZERO SEVEN, that Parvum R1.0 ITX build I've not shared yet. Well, that has got two 240 rads and two 120mm intake fans on the same footprint as my Parvum X3.0 build ASHEN. So for that project, I had an Aquaero 6lt mount built into the chassis (another design perk by the mighty JR23).    The Aquaero is a game-changer, I'm so late to the party with these but as I'd said, I'd not really needed one before. Now I don't think I'll do another build without it... or without its software at least!!! As I found this little beauty!   ...   The Aqua-Computer OCTO. Smaller than a credit card, mounts on 2.5" drive mounts, 8 channel fan controller + 4 sensor inputs. Best of all runs on the same software suite as the Aquareo. I run the Aquaero 6LT in SEVEN. I run the two 240 rads through their own channel (daisy each set of fans) the intake fans on a channel and the pump (that's 4, all the channels the Aquaero has onboard, granted those four channels will run 50+ fans if you wanted). I then run two inline loop temp sensors on each end of the rad runs (using two was pointless, looks cool though). In the Aqua-Suite software, I set the pump to 33% and forget about it and I have the rads running low and slow unless the coolant temp pushes 40'c by which time the fan curve ramps up the rad fans and tickles the intake fans. It's amazing! taking a curve off your coolant temp is THE way to do it.    If motherboards had sensor inputs and a way in the BIOS to control fan speeds off them then it would be game over for the fan controller.  But until then, this is king.   Now, I could be wrong about the OCTO but from what I can tell, it does all the same stuff the Aquaero does just without writing it to internal device memory and with further input limitations. But how I see it is, it'll do everything I have my Aquaero 6lt doing at a third of the cost.    ...   Mounted on the reverse of the chassis drive mount plate/cable hider type thing...     I think that's it...    So how does it stand now? Well, I'm waiting on resupply from EK. They released their Torque extenders and I'm in need of that GPU backplate. So fingers crossed that'll come in soon.    I've made all the cables!!!! and they look awesome!! I've posted some shots on Instagram (sorry) but I'm keeping progress B&W to build tension for the reveal... and posting shots of b&w cables is sort of like watching Avatar on a B&W CRT TV from the 80s.   ...   See...   Haha.   I'm stuck on the loop. I knew using the FLT over the distro would make the loop more of a challenge but equally, it was that challenge that excited me. I've some ideas and that'll be my next update.    Thanks for reading folks.    J. 

After months of slowly getting the parts i wanted to get my rig how i want i have now completed it. I am honestly over the moon with it (bar the dust  re-gibing my house and its becoming a daily task to try keep it clean), sadly my most beloved part the Cryorig A40 AIO pump gave up and i had to replace with the x73 but now my 3900x is running cooler than ever. May not be the best rig around or look the coolest but its just how i want it  Hope everyone has a great day

This is my build from 2016 (Broadwell-E) that I took pictures of but never did get around to posting and sharing. The motherboard died a few weeks back and I tore her all apart this last weekend. 🥺  New build is the opposite direction -- mATX. That being said, anyone who wants to buy a Caselabs case, this behemoth is taking up space!

UPDATE 1.0 - IT'S ABOUT DAMN TIME!
 
Sure feels like its been a while, the last three builds have felt the same. It's getting harder and harder to find the time, organise and pull everything together. I'm closer to 40 than ever (funny how that works), married, two kids (under 3), a dog, a mortgage and a job to keep it all moving forwards. I adore PC hardware, its the one constant that has stayed with me my whole life. It's an absolute pleasure and a true privilege to have the support of these industry titans! It's been six years since I started modding under the MODZERO name and truly, I don't take any of this support for granted. I enjoy the process more than the result and without these sponsors, I'd get to build maybe one PC every 5 years. Each project is a labour of love, I don't go to the extreme and believe that a 'PC' should look like a PC. For me, it's all about clean lines, custom cables, sexy hardware and water cooling. With that in mind, come along for the ride.
I'm not sure when I first mentioned I'd be doing a 0-11D build but I'm pretty sure Lian Li sent me the case well over a year ago!
 
So where to begin, erm... Lian Li got in touch (I was honoured) and asked if I'd like to work with their Razer Edition 0-11D. I said I would and a couple of weeks later it arrived on my door from OCUK. I reached out to Gigabyte UK and they hooked me with some hardware goodies (I'll cover those in the next update). I then reached out to AMD UK and they sent me over some silicon loveliness (Thanks AMD, it's such a buzz having your support). Then, thinking this build was turning into something rather epic I reached out to Silverstone Tech (I'd not previously been sponsored by them). Side note - I've only ever used Silverstone PSUs (on my own builds), simply put, I believe they produce the best PSUs on the market. Certainly, others make great PSUs but for me, the simple design aesthetic and great cable pinouts make Silverstone my 1st choice.
 
Anyway, they hooked me up with a couple of options (more in the next update). EK then sent me a message as they were working on their 0-11d distro at the time (showing this builds age). The OG plan had been I'd build this around that, demo their distro glory early release style.
 
But a number of things went 'tits up' and everything got delayed...
 
Life can be a bummer.
 
THE CASE!
 

...

...

...

...
It's your standard 0-11d with some added RGB and a Razer etched logo. Oh! and some green USB ports. To be honest, I love it! There is a reason this case is so popular, it looks amazing! I like Razer, I've used their products off and on since their inception and the green flare of the ports with the effect the etched logo will give once the RGB does its thing is all good news in my books.
So what to do first...
 

...
Yup! dismantle it!
 

...
Which turned out to be a PIA. The price point on this case is awesome and I guess you gotta keep them costs low somehow huh... pressed steel and rivets it is then. But never mind, my wife treated me to a new drill (fancy) and I got to work hunting them down. Like this cheeky wanker hiding behind a black tape I'll not be able to replace.
 

...
A lot of rivets later, the case was down to a frame. But why I hear you cry (cried no one) well, I'll get to that in a moment.
 

...
The front IO and rear panel were difficult, well, a pain. That front IO panel doesn't want to come off and they integrated an RGB strip into the panel which needed to come out in a sequence. The back was a fight too, it seemed as though the order in which the frame would have been first assembled would call for top/bottom panel to be removed before the back would come away. I opted to drill out the mid-wall rivets on the bottom panel which provided enough flex for the rear panel to come away.
 
So front, rear, top, back and feet are all off for some painting love.
 

...
Oh, a couple of rads too! If you're on Instagram check me out, with this build as I've been doing certain bits documented as stories. I pulled apart the SE360 and PE360 rads with ease. EK have you mind with those rads. four hex screws, slide the ends across and the sides pull off.
 
So, the case and rads in bits, they got packed up and sent on their jollies.
 
This is where this one gets fun. Some time prior, I was watching Top Gear and the lads are ragging a McLaren 600LT around the track.
 

...
This, McLaren 600LT!!!!.. in THAT green, with THOSE yellow callipers, forged alloy wheels, carbon panelling and a touch of orange in the model name stitching.
THAT'S WHAT I WANT!
Not the car! but the paint, the whole colour scheme. That's my 0-11D build in car form.
As it turned out, getting that green wasn't gonna happen. McLaren doesn't list the colour on their website (not that I could find) and 3rd party colours without a reference were gonna be difficult.
Very difficult.
Still, I sent some emails and PM'd a few people.
 

...
That's it! That is Luminaire green, a sample from Mclaren! Not that Mclaren knows that. I'll link the company that made it happen when I finish the build cos you really need the light to show off this paint! It has a metallic pearlescence to the hue (ponce)! it's three shade of green with a sparkle up close and wow do the panels look awesome!
Yup, sorry... moving on. I'll show it off when it's done and the guy that did the paint is happy to provide the service to others (granted, it cost me three times the value of the case to get it painted) but compared to other sprayers I'd had quotes from he is reasonable, reliable, great communication and genuinely takes pride in his work.
 

...
RIVETS! counter-sunk Lian Li black rivets... These I picked up from MDPC-X along with all my cable sleeve, connectors, crimps, wire, combs and terminals. They ship worldwide and only offer the best. #nocompromise again, more on this in a future update.
 

...

Putting them in is so much easier than taking them out. Once you remember how to re-assemble the case that is! I got a panic on fearing I'd have to drill the rivets back out and mark the paintwork in the process.
But alas...
 

...
Oddly, I was left with 4 stubby thumb screws and a small piece of foam (which now, having written it down reminded me it was a pressure fit wedge to hold the LED strip from wiggling) Oops.
 

...
I'm jumping ahead a little, but I bought the Phanteks vertical GPU bracket. I'd intended to hold out for the EK one they announced during the EK EXPO and if the ribbon on this gives me any grief I'll be sure to go back and place my order.
I went with Phanteks for two reasons, it seems to have a smaller footprint and it positions the GPU further forward (closer to the side panel) than the Lain Li vertical bracket (oh yeah, that's the other one I was looking at..).
Annoyingly I didn't get a photo but fitted there wasn't the clearance required to put the SE rad + a 25mm fan underneath. Which ticked me off as I'm sure I'd seen it used in another 0-11d build on reddit. But not to worry.. break out the old Dremel and touchup paint.
 

...
Sorted.
 
That'll do for now. I'll be back with UPDATE 2.0 perhaps at the weekend. I want to share the hardware I'll be using and maybe get some photos of all the EK glory they sent me!!!! I mean, WOW! They spoilt me. ❤️ those guys.
Thanks for checking this out, I appreciate I write a lot and maybe you just came for the photos (hey, we look at pron), either way, thanks.
J.

The fine tuning has occurred...minus the cables. I ordered sleeping to bundle the front io into on clean loom but it hasn’t come in yet. I swapped the color of the vue coolant to a redder color and corrected the angles of some of the runs so it’s all straight.

Here is the poorly drawn plan for the front section. I’ve never used splitters before, it simplifies the runs in this area but I’m hoping it doesn’t cut down on the pressure going through the rads and they’ll be able to bleed fine.
 
 
got the first batch of fittings in aswell and started playing around with the runs 

Decided it was time for me to upgrade my current rig from dual 1070 to a single GPU. Since new hardware should be on the way this year my simple upgrade turned into a completely new system and I was instantly sold on the EK edition InWin 909 which also meant this system will need the watercooling to match. Dont have much to show currently, just started off getting the 'basement' runs sorted but wanted to get this thread started. 
 

 
Case came in, no damage and its number 39 of 200. The build quality for sure justified the hefty price. 
 

 
The case comes with metal cable combs to make passing through the chassis look as clean as possible. This was a huge plus to me over the singularity computers scepter which were integrated into the distribution plate.
 
 
Here are some good pictures of the case unboxed


 
 
PROGRESS TO COME!
 

 

I'm finally back to the PCMR, I moved countries and had to sell my old one and this time I decided it was time to try a small form factor.
 
 
More Pictures here: https://imgur.com/gallery/w0JTOyI
[PCPartPicker Part List] 
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $172.39 @ Newegg CPU Cooler Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler   Motherboard MSI B450I GAMING PLUS AC Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard $129.99 @ B&H Memory G.Skill Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $119.99 @ Newegg Storage Silicon Power 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $129.99 @ Newegg Video Card Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB NITRO+ Video Card $433.98 @ Newegg Case Lian Li TU150 Mini ITX Desktop Case   Power Supply Silverstone 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply   Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $108.78 @ Other World Computing Case Fan Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM 70.75 CFM 120 mm Fan $13.90 @ Amazon Monitor Pixio PX275h 27.0" 2560x1440 95 Hz Monitor   Keyboard Razer BlackWidow Lite Wired Gaming Keyboard $75.52 @ Amazon Mouse Razer DeathAdder Essential Wired Optical Mouse $39.99 @ Best Buy   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $1224.53   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-11 13:36 EDT-0400    
 
Temps:
I've added dust filter on the bottom. I wasn't able to add fans on the bottom of the case, but since the temperatures are ok now, I don't think I will.
At first I tried using the MSI 5700 XT Mech but I was getting horrible temps (98+ memory, 103 junction and 93 gpu).
 
On the Saphire Nitro with a custom fan curve (the default one is leaning too much on quiet and letting the temperatures rise) I got this:
2100mhz 1090v and temperatures are lot more reasonable (hovering between 70~75) I was able to use 1060v but on Gears of War 4 benchmark it was crashing.
 
Tips if you're building on this case:
Plan your cables: the side panels are hold with pegs and they will pop out if you try to jam the cables; the case has an attic use it to hide the cables, it's great!
When using big GPU and big Air Coolers, add the GPU first and AirCooler second, you need the inside free to pivot in.
Use slim fans for the bottom of the case, I tried with 2 Noctua NF-P12 Redux and it was touching the GPU.

Awesome case and setup but I can't believe that case does not have a reset button.  I was under the idea that was standard in all cases now days.  And since you're aware of the heat, might want to consider putting a sink on your NVMe drive.  I have a 1TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus NVMe and a 2TB Samsung 960 Evo in my system and the NVMe drive runs right around 20 to 25 degrees hotter than the SSD.  I have a few items coming from Newegg and a sink for the NVMe is one of those items.
 
Good luck, take care, be safe, and have a nice weekend.

-Vinyl front and back applied 
-Reed switch installed, decided to go with 1 for power and skipped the reset.
 
Tasks remaining:
-side panels, decided to go with acrylic due to cuts ill have to make. 
-custom cables, but those will be worked on when im bored, so they might take a while.
-paint a "Power On" logo on under side of leg/power button.

**Update 15 Oct 2020
Current specs:
- Ryzen 3600 with CTR @ 4.1GHz 1.25V
- Maxsun RTX 2070 Super Jetstream (Same as Palit Super JS)
- MSI B550M MORTAR
-32GB (2x16GB) Trident Z RGB 3466MHz CL16
- Silverstone SX650-G with custom sleeved custom length cables
- Coolerman 92mm Dual Tower 6 Heatpipe Cooler
- Noctua NF-B9 Fans 
- Scythe Kaze Flex 1212 Slim Fans
- Metalfish S5 Casing
 
Planned Upgrade:
- Thermalright Silver Arrow 130
- Arctic P12 PWM
------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Hi there, I've been wanting to make a very small MATX build for a long time but the price of the Kimera Cerberus+ shipping to Asia has put me off for years because I'm still a university student. But when I watched Linus make that video upgrading his living room PC with my dream case I once again scoured the internet for an alternative MATX case that is just as small or even smaller than the Cerberus. Hence, I just wanna share a dream build I've wanted to do for years and an awesome, and possibly the smallest MATX case I found off Taobao for around USD60 measuring at only 13.5L
It can house a full-sized MATX motherboard as well as supporting even oversized graphics cards like my RTX 2070 Super Jetstream. (My favourite carbonated drink can for scale)
 


 
My Specs:
-Ryzen 5 3600
-Maxsun RTX 2070 Super Jetstream (It's an RTX 2070 Super, Palit is their OEM)
-16GB Corsair LPX 3000MHz CL15
-MSI B450M Mortar Max
-Cryorig M9a Cooler
-Silverstone SX650-G with custom sleeved modular cables
-Noctua Redux NF-B9 fans
-ID-Cooling NO-12015 120mm slim fans
-Metalfish S5 Casing
 
My Setup:
-Acer XV272U P 27' Monitor
-AOC q2963pm 29' Ultrawide Monitor
-Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro M with doubleshot PBT keycaps
-Logitech G403 Lightspeed Wireless
-Razer Goliathus WoT Limited Edition (Used it since 2015, still love it till this day ❤️)
-Klipsch Promedia 2.1 Speakers
-MassdropxHifiman HE350 Headphones
-Finally wanna feature my old and broken dBrand-ed HTC 10 as a webcam and microphone
 


 
Temperatures:
I have the airflow configuration at bottom and rear intake with top-front exhaust near the PSU area.
CPU - 70-80 degrees under load @ stock settings
GPU - 75-80 degrees under load @ 139% power limits and 80 degrees target temp
*CPU turbos up to 4.2GHz when single core load and 3.7-3.8GHz when using more than 2-ish cores.
 
Some quirks to know when building with this case is that if you use normal 25mm thick 120mm fans at the bottom, you will be blocking the entire bottom PCIE slot, even by using slim 15mm thick fans you will be blocking around half of the slot. So no fancy quad 16x NVME expansion card with a heatsink, not even soundcards with tall capacitors; only Wifi adaptors, Ethernet/USB expansion cards etc. Another thing is that if you use full-sized MATX boards like mine, high chance the internal USB header will be blocked by the bottom fans due to the robust USB3.0 cable, so a right angled internal USB header adaptor may be required. And pelase only install the cooler after you've screwed the motherboard in to save yourself from frustration, but do install the cooler backplate first as only the front and left side panel comes off.
 
I plan to order another kit of 16GB Corsair LPX Whites, totaling it to 32GB. Also plan to try out this cool little dual tower 92mm cooler I found off Taobao as well to hopefully improve the CPU temps. https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.57.3e39165fT3a2I5&id=610348890581&ns=1&abbucket=14#detail
 
Link to the Metalfish S5 PC case: https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.3.63d02dd8v9Z2QF&id=611316826534&ns=1&abbucket=14

Its the first time I build a computer, and not without any trouble... 
 (The problem was that I didnt plug one of the extensions of the Motherboard)
 
But here are the final results!!!
 
Specs:
 
Ryzen 5 3600 with Stock Cooler (for now)
Asus ROG STRIX B450F
MSI RX 5700 MECH OC GP
Kingston HyperX 3200Mhz CL 16
Kingston A2000 250GB M.2 SSD
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM
Kolink Enclave 700W G FM
MSI MAG Vampiric 010X
 
 
It is indeed a major jump from my i5 6300HQ quad core and GTX 1060, I went from 1069 points in CineBench R20 to 3768 points, with no overclock. Just -0.06250 Voltage Offset
 
Never had the courage to build one by myself but I finally did it!

Hey everyone!

I'm a first timer all around; this is my first post here of my very first build also! I also have a minor issue with the build that I'm hoping someone can shed some light on. Though my general understanding is a bit on the novice side, due to the COVID pandemic I decided to take a leap of faith and leave a 10 year old career in food service to start studying IT, security, and programming, so any and all technical explanations are definitely welcome! haha
Enough intro, let's get to the build shall we!

I needed something that would serve as a primary workstation with a decent capacity for gaming (not a hardcore gamer but I do enjoy me games) so the specs are;
Case;
- Segotep Phoenix Case
Hardware;
- AMD Ryzen 5 3600 (Stock cooler)
- ROG Strix B450 F Gaming Board
- GSkill Trident Z RGB 16gb (2x8)
- Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX 5700 XT 8gb GDDR6
- (Aluminum Graphic Card Cooler 3x80mm fans - currently not installed till I can get a stable system.)
- Archer TX3000E TP-Link Wi-Fi 6.0
- Crucial 500gb m.2 NVMe SSD
- Seagate 500gb external SSD
- Corsair RM 750X PSU
- 3x Corsair AF120mm case fans
- 2x Magnetic RGB Strips
Peripherals;
- Scepter 34" 21:9 100Hz monitor
- Redragon Shiva membrane keyboard
- Redragon M602 mouse
 
Super excited about it! Posted right away and no miss-plugs or connections! I actually added a slim GPU radiator on the second slot which you can see in the last build picture. When I tried re-starting the computer to boot the BIOS to tweak some settings, the components stayed active but the motherboard flashed the orange status LED and suddenly it wouldn't post... I was very careful to unplug the PSU, flush the residual charge, and got into it to make sure all connections were solid. Tried it again and it posted fine, so I went into BIOS, made my adjustments, and when I selected Save & Restart, the same issue once again... Did this dance a few times throughout the night trying to troubleshoot a faulty connection or something, ended up concluding that the GPU Radiator might be the problem, so I took that out and no difference... It will boot normally until you attempt a reset and then it won't post. Sleep and power function seem to be working fine, just the restart appears to cause this crash. My second uneducated thought was that maybe the restart function isn't working properly cause the case doesn't have a reset button, therefore I left the reset pins on the mobo unplugged, but I'm not sure if that would be causing the issue or not or how I could go about fixing it...

Once again, super excited to be part of this community! Thank you in advanced for your time if you stuck around and read this long post! All thoughts, comments & suggestions are welcome!

I do love my job some times. As of today all of the parts for a customer order have come in and the builds will be done Tuesday 6/9/2020.
The parts in question?
 
CPU: R9-3950X (16c/32t Beast)
Cooler: BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4 (Big, Black, Functional)
RAM: 4x32GB Crucial Ballistix 3,200Mhz CL16 (128GB in just 4 Sticks!)
Mobo: ASUS WS X570-ACE (Sadly no 2.5Gb or better LAN. Just 2 x 1Gb)
Storage-
 SSD: 1TB Samsung 970 EVO v.2 (Because until Samsung releases a 980 with PCIe 4 support, it's good enough)
 HDDs: 2 x 4TB Seagate Ironwolfs in RAID 1 (No SMR here)
GPU: GT710 (No GPU Compute in these rigs. I'd definitely use a different case if there was going to be)
PSU: EVGA 600BR (Enough power, nothing fancy)
Case: Corsair Carbide 200R (Not perfect for airflow do to its solid front panel, but it's a Swiss Army Knife of a case and not bad to build in IMO)
 
I'll update with build pics and will do some load temperature stuff. Until then, what do you all think of the parts selection? I'd personally use a different case, Gold or Plat' PSU and something 2080 or better for a GPU. That said, it's the customers money and my job is to build what they pay for.
 

 
 
The Build!
 
I'll be linking to my Instagram for the images as I have uploaded them there already.
 
Step 0: Double check of the parts... I'm glad we ordered extra kits of RAM to stock for other customers because of the 12 kits we ordered we git shipped 11 + a kit of 2x8GB... The latter is far from the $319 value spent on it. As we ordered more than needed the builds went on without a hitch.
 
Step 1: Bench Build

First up, the Motherboard itself. If you have built with a full ATX motherboard in the past 3-20 years it's nothing all that new. The CPU drops in the good old Z.I.F. Socket with a lift of the lever. In the case of this motherboard, it has a heat sink over the top M.2 slot so that is where the 1TB SSD will go leaving the bottom slot open. Per our standard we install the standoff and screw for both M.2 Slots even if there is no drive to make sure they are there if the system gets upgraded in the future. Normally I would install the RAM last, however give the size of the cooler it's the RAM in first. Give the all black of the heat spreaders they look perfect in the build.
 
Mini Review: BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 4
 
This is the first time I have installed the Dark Rock Pro 4 and I'll be honest I liked it. Most of the tower coolers I install are CoolerMaster Hyper 212 versions and compared to those this was simpler by far. No third party back plate, one simply swaps the stock plastic clips with the plastic stand offs, metal brackets and extra long screws included with the cooler. For testing(And eventually on all three) I installed the included thermal compound. The hold down mechanisom is a simple slatted bar with two holes for the screws to go through. The top plate of the cooler has two thumb screw caps in line with the hold down screw holes. The included driver slips into the hole with enough play side to side that you can tilt it out from between the fin stacks and place the screw onto the magnetic tip. Screw in both screws, replace the thumb screw caps and job done! Well almost. Still have to slide in the thin 140mm fan between the fin stacks and clip it in place. Installing the second fan is actually the most annoying part of the install. 

Step 2: Install PSU, Run EPS 12v, Install Motherboard.
 
Given the lack of a full modular PSU in these builds there is one trick that I must point out here. Installing the PSU first and pre running the EPS 12v with slack allows you to slip the motherboard into the case with enough room to get your hand in and clip it to the motherboard. If you have a full modular PSU you can clip the EPS 12v to the motherboard first then slip it through the case as you install the motherboard. With the Corsair 200R this worked quite well. As a bonus, the screw driver that came with the cooler is the perfect slim and long combination to easily screw the motherboard into the case. The top three screws are often obstructed by the top lip of the case.
 
Step 3: Cable Manage
 
My order of operations for cable runs in systems is as follows. Front Panel, USB, Audio, PSU/Power, SATA and finally Case Fans. There are no LED, fan controllers or other auxiliary devices to deal with so it's very easy. The reason I do it this way is simply layering the things that are most likely to be undone on top of the things that are least likely. This also often leads to naturally clean cable runs. Given that there will be no GPU/PCIe power needed I've tucked that cable in the nook Corsair provides behind the PSU. The extra SATA and Molex strands are tied down together in the bottom 3.5" HDD bay for simplicity.

Step 4: HDD's, GPU
 
The HDD's simply slot in from the front and clip in. If you want to hard mount it you can remove the plastic locking arm and simple use screws. As for the GPU, it just slots in with its sadly blue PCB the only stand out part of the build. That said, the lack of a window lets that one part out of place pass unseen... but I know it's there...

Step 5: UEFI Update and Configure
 
Now I should say I did bench test the system before putting it all in the case, but I did not bother doing updates and configuration. As the customer is going to be running Linux of some sort I simply updated the UEFI, enabled the RAM's D.O.C.P. Profile and left it at that.

Step 6: Burn in and Temps
 
To be sure everything works and to run some stress tests I simply plugged in a test disk with Windows on it. Given the CPU and Memory are the top parts to test I slammed them both with Prime95 with the side panels on. I didn't think to grab a screen capture or even a picture of the temps, but under every form of stress test I could through at it and the top temperature hit was 65.7C. With those temps I would more than happy pushing an all core O.C. if this was may own system.
 
All told these systems were a fun build. Well I built two of them and my coworker built the third, but in any case it was a blast. These are the sorts of systems I love building because some if not all of the parts are things I would never be able to get for myself or simply more than I would ever need.

I have been debating if I should post my build or not.  The build is nothing fancy, no RGB and my color co-ordination didn't really work out as planned.  After giving it some thought, I decided to go ahead and write it up because I did learn a few very valuable lessons.
 
I would like to give a huge THANKS to the help/guidance provided by the great folks here at LTT forums.  Your help really gave me the confidence to attempt this build and many thanks for the answers/help to all my questions.
 
Here are my parts:
 
Case:  Corsair 275R Airflow case
CPU:  Ryzen 5 3600
CPU Cooler:  Stock Wraith Cooler for now
Motherboard:  MSI B450 Tomahawk Max
Memory:  G.Skill Ripjaws 2x8 3200 Mhz (16 GB kit)
GPU:  Gigabyte GeForce 2070 Super Windforce 3 fans
HDD:  Crucial P1 NVMe 1tb model
PSU:  Corsair CX550M
 
I took my time bulding this pc as it was my first build.  The first snag came with the CPU cooler.   I originally ordered the Arctic Freezer 34 esports (single fan) in Red to match the red/black build theme I was going with.   I followed the instructions and then test fit the cooler before I removed any stickers or applied paste.   The screws that link to the backplate were not long enough.  I wish I took pictures are the time but I was confused and frustrated by the problem   I had my son helping me research the issue and we finally found a small amount of text on the Arctic web-site:
 
* The length of the backplate screw nuts is different on some AMD AM4 motherboards. You can get a free compatible backplate on request from us. Please send us a message with the subject 'Freezer 34 - AM4 Backplate', the shipping address and proof of invoice to support@arctic.ac.
 
I was floored by this as all the articles I read, videos I watchec, none of them had this a possible issue.   I wanted to get this PC up and running so I switch to the included wraith cooler.  This installed without any issues so I continued with the build.
 
I did do a suggested test bench style boot by using the CPU box and it booted right up to the bios screen.  All the parts were installed and recognized.
 
So my next steps was to put it all in the case.  I spent a lot of time routing cables, hooking up the front panel I/O, etc... then tried to do another test boot before finalzing the cable management and nothing.  No boot, no power, no fans, nothing.  I checked the PSU - yup it was plugged in and swtich turned on.  Still nothing.   I disconnected the front panel I/O and tried to short out the pins again - nothing.  I could get nothing to work.   I was about to panic, but I said to myself - what do the folks at LTT recomment.  So I started removing parts and disconnecting things - still nothing.  
 
I took the motherboard out of the case and prepared to resetup the test bench using the box (thinking maybe something in the case was shorting out the motherboard).  At this time I noticed my problem and I just laughed.   When I connected up the front panel I/O - I used the wrong spot on the motherboard.   I located the correct spot and shorted the pins and it booted back into the BIOS.   Here is an image showing where I went wrong:

 
 
Once this was figured out I put everything back in the case.  However at this time I kinda starting slacking off on the cable management.   I don't think I did horrible but I could definitely be better.  Here is a picture from the back of the case:

 
Here is a picture from the front:

 
I can see now why cabling kits are popular, the ones that came with the Corsair PSU are really stiff and can be hard to route at times.
 
So my next issue was the memory in wrong slots issue.  Thankfully the MSI bios alerted me to this non-standard configuration and that was easily fixed.
 
At the time of this post, my PC is running great.  Playing games on my TV with high/ultra settings.  
 
I asked myself what I would different in my next build/upgrade:
1. Try to save money for a fully modular PSU and possible a sleeve cabling kit.
2. Better case and/or case fans.  The corsair case fans are loud even at low speeds and it is annoying.  I have ordered some better fans for replacement.
3. Do better research on CPU Cooler compatibility.   The Arctic site does not have a CPU compatibility so there is nothing I could have done there, but other CPU cooler manufacturers do and I have found my CPU cooler repalcement that I will order once I have the money.
4. What to do about GPU SAG.  Not sure on this one.
 
I hope this helps someone and gives them confidence in building their own system.
 

I Am an archhitecture student and I will be using this build for 3D Modeling and Scene Rendering. By the way before I get obliterated for my parts list I wanted to say 
 
1.) This is my first build in of which I feel as though the case is way to small for a first time builder to cram this into!
 
2.) My rendering is actually NOT GPU BASED!!! In fact my built in rendering software is CPU based and they just started to implement RTx and Cuda rendering. (Vray) So please dont say my stuff doesnt match up blah blah blah.
 
3.) Yaaaaa I know its blinged out in RGB stuff but hey When i go back to school its gonna be an all white and black build to match my whole set up and I didnt mind sliding some extra benjies for some pop!
 
thanks guys love you all ❤️
 
Amd 9 3900x
Dark Rock Pro 4
MSI 2060 Super
Gigabyte X570 Gaming X 
64 Gb Corsair Vengeance Pro Ram (White)
6x Corsair LL Series Fans
Uphere Gpu Bracket Support
Samsung 970 Evo 500Gb 
2Tb WD Blue HDD
EVGA 850W PSU
Phanteks Neon RGB Strips
Lian Li Strimer Plus Cables
Corsair 220T Tempered Glass 

This is my current build :
MSI Z390 ACES
Intel i9700K
16gb ram
several SSD's
Kraken X60
MSI RTX2080 Gaming Trio X
 
Cooling :
* 2 front intake 140mm NZXT (stock Kraken)
* 1 rear outtake Bequiet Silent Wings 2
* 1 bottom intake Bequiet Silent Wings 2
* 3 top outtake AER NZXT fans 140mm
 
PC runs fine, temps are pretty good too, but I always kinda hate it when I play games that the GPU fans start spinning quite a bit more and thus more noise is added. So I might consider going to a full custom watercooled loop (even though I have 0 experience). Just want to keep my pc as quiet as possible and especially not with fans going in overdrive when playing heavy games. 
 
Any advice? I don't mind swapping the whole cooling system and fan setup. So I need decent cooling performance without introducing heavy noise, really need to get this thing QUIET (my desk is in a corner of the living room).

Hi all, 
 
I wanted to post up my latest build. Its a living room PC which is primarily designed for gaming at 1080p 120+ FPS on my LG OLED. Mostly for racing but also the odd game like CIV or other controller based games. 

It took me a while to source the parts I wanted and think about how I was going to cool the cabinet where the PC would sit. 

Cooling was going to be an issue as the case would be put in a space with no airflow. So I made some holes in the rear of the cabinet for the two Noctua fans and also cut a hole in the rear of the case for a fan cable pass-through. This then runs into a Y splitter for the two fans so they are both controlled by the PC as required. 

Specs are as follows:

Ryzen 5 3600
MSI B450I 
Corsair LPX DDR4 3200mhz
MSI Ventus 2060 SUPER
WD NVME 512gb 
Corsair H60 cooler
Noctua NF A12x25 (Radiator Fan)
Noctua NF F12 PWN x2 (Media Cabinet Fans)
FSP 450w PRO SFX

I think the build looks great. The case was super easy to build in and all the parts went together no issues at all. Will get down to testing over the next week and see how it runs but should meet my 1080p at 120+ FPS requirements no problem.