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AlbinoRhinoGyno

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Other
  • Location
    Tokyo, Japan
  • Interests
    Fine dining and culinary itself.
  • Biography
    A voluntary exile from the land of dragon, now found himself in a foreign land... or is it an island? Eh. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  • Occupation
    IT related thingies

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident Z 8GBx2 F4-3200C14D-16GTZR (B-die)
  • GPU
    ASUS ROG Strix RX 5600 XT O6G
  • Case
    Corsair Carbide 275Q
  • Storage
    Western Digital Blue 1 TB 2.5" WDS100T2B0A
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850x 850W
  • Display(s)
    Dell U2414H
  • Cooling
    Wraith Spire cooler
  • Keyboard
    FILCO Majestouch Convertible 2 (Cherry MX Red)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G Pro Wireless
  • Sound
    Cooler Master MH752 Headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Version 1903
  • Laptop
    HP Envy x360 13″ 16GB RAM 512GB Storage

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  1. A GTX 980 performs approximately like a 1060, which is still the most popular graphics card on Steam, so it's still good for quite some time. On the other hand, 1080 is what, 70% faster? Probably not faster enough for a 140% price bump. So yeah, the deal's good and you may should consider taking it.
  2. Then yeah, "Supports both Adaptive-Sync with NVIDIA GeForce* graphics cards and FreeSync with AMD Radeon graphics cards *Compatible with NVIDIA GeForce GTX 10 series, GTX 16 series, RTX 20 series and newer graphics cards".
  3. Wow yeah! Same model 1660 super at the same price of a 1660 one, guess there's no reason to go for 1660 now.
  4. I'm sorry but it really sounds like you got a hardware problem, so RMA is likely the only plausible way. Is it worth a try?
  5. Could be a bent card or bent pin, not uncommon nowadays with beefier and beefier coolers on graphics cards, or could just be a drop incident or things like that. Not sure if you should brute force it in the slots (could cause damage to the card or the board), so RMA is probably a better option. I'd like to see how the card is bent in pictures if possible tho. And of course, using it plugged into just half a PCIe slot is not very recommendable, hence the artifacts.
  6. Sounds fine to me, too. Although a CPU slightly weaker on single-thread performance like a Ryzen 5 1600 will definitely yield a somewhat worse result when FPS is that high than, say a 10900K. I wouldn't worry about it too much.
  7. Letgomyleghoe is right, you can try DDU before RMA. Although AMD cards are indeed quirky and can be sometime frustrating (speaking of my experience of owning a now dead Vega 64 and a working ROG Strix 5600 XT). So if getting a refund, you can definitely switch to team green, at least that's what I wished I could have done.
  8. I'm afraid the bottleneck calculator is just not very accurate, as a well-known fact. As for the CPU, G5400 was a great budget gaming CPU at its time, but it's been quite some time and two physical cores are just not enough anymore. Also, pairing with a 1050 Ti would help, but probably not as much as you would like, so do check some gaming benchmark of it before you make a purchase, especially if you didn't have a good deal on it.
  9. Waht's the rpm with fans at 75%? Also undervolting should do something, have you tried it out?
  10. Now that's weird. If manually overclocking the ram doesn't work, maybe there's something wrong with it? The first Ryzen's compatibility with ram is very poor, too. So that could be it. My old set of rams (some run of middle common Corsair 3600MHz ones) were too acting weird unless I turn off the XMP, until I finally got a new set of B-die ones.
  11. Is that the GPU temperature or the junction temp? Because the latter is usually around 80C and that's totally fine. If it's the GPU temp tho, that's definitely abnormal and should probably get an RMA. Your case is very well ventilated and the ambient temperature is fine, too. So it should run at about 60C 1800RPM (according to tech Jesus himself) instead of 83C, speaking of this particular MSI model. Undervolting and underclocking are always good for dropping temps but at this scale of abnormality, I think it's better to have it check out until something else went wrong.
  12. I feel you pal. Mine (a Vega 64) was also driving me crazy with random black-out and crashes, no matter what kind of fixes I tried. Turns out it was a defect. And it wasn't just me, too. 1/3 of people bought that card on Amazon.co.jp experienced the same problem. (Still bought a 5600 XT after that, sadly. If it weren't that cheap like a steal, I would never get an AMD card for sure. The new card is working fine as long as I don't try to overclock it even just a little.
  13. I guess you can try DDU, but it does look like it's dying of old age I'm afraid.
  14. Is your Vega 56 a blower-style one? Because that's gonna be insanely loud and runs very hot. If not, I still think 1660 Super is a better option because there is a very good chance your PSU can't handle a Vega 56. I myself ran Vega 64 with 850w Gold PSU, which draws 280W easily after some undervolting/overclocking, so do be careful please.
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