minibois

I'm a construction electrician and I have been field testing the LTT screwdriver for about 2 weeks now. TL;dr version is - LTT screwdriver is ready for the construction trade however there are caveats. 

Appearance and "street cred": On first look, my coworkers and my foreman thought it looked like "bob the builder tools" and I don't blame them. In the traditionally macho mucho field of construction full of BULGING ribbed tools, PULSATING and ENGORGED with testosterone, the LTT screwdriver is decidedly understated, no big labels, no big ribbed edges, no big rubber paddings. It's a screwdriver. There are pros and cons. The pros are no one is going to be stealing your screwdriver because very few people know what it is. Cons, if you're putting up a "professional theatre" where you have all the pro tools to make yourself appear more competent than you are, the LTT screwdriver won't be landing you much street cred compared to the likes of Wera and Knipex.  Ratcheting mechanism: This is the part where the LTT screwdriver REALLY shines and make all the people making fun of the way it looks shut up. You hand people the screwdriver and they start using it, they shut up immediately lol. It is BUTTERY smooth, low back drag, very little slop, with very satisfying ratchety clicky hand feels.  Durability: It's been dropped from anywhere between 16ft to 12ft multiple times onto concrete. No damage. Bit stays in the shaft. We do have a few bits become loose inside the bitholder but at 16ft drop, the plastic body held up well save for a few dings and nicks.  Bits selection: The standard bit selection shows what the LTT screwdriver was meant for. It was meant for tech-work, which means the bit sizes are Veeeeryyy small, for tinyteeny hexes and philips. Not a ding against the LTT screwdriver, just shows what it was originally intended for. For construction work, you're going to have to put your own big bits in.  Room for refinement for a "heavy duty" LTT screwdriver: If LTT were to release a HEAVY DUTY version of the screwdriver for construction trades, it really only need a few small changes. The thing about how tradies use screwdriver is, they use the end of the screwdriver as a hammer to bash things into place. (see the end of my other screwdrivers) Now while the LTT bit-holder end-cap is strong, it is still only made of plastic and I wouldn't dream of bashing the end against anything. To make it heavy duty, an upgraded metal end-cap with the shaft of the bitholder reinforced for impact load would be ideal. Shorty bits, while it lets the screwdriver hold more bits, when you are wearing gloves the tiny teeny bits becomes a bit difficult to get out, for the heavy duty version, normal sized bits would probably be more appropriate for glove use.     
All in all. I rate the LTT screwdriver an 8.5/10 for construction use. It has a very nice ratecheting mechanism and is great to hold. The smooth assembly doesn't bother me much since most self-respecting tradie should be wearing gloves in the year of WorkSafeBC 2024. So as long as you remember this is not meant for heavy duty use and don't use it to pry things or hammer things, the LTT screwdriver would do you well in the construction trade. 

Appears to be a Sharkoon SGS30

Wendell - before Level1Tech - was a co-host on a YouTube channel called TekSyndicate. 
Without going into all the details, Wendel and co-host Logan split due to a whole lot of stuff (if I remember correctly including a different sort of direction).
 
Of course I don't know what went on, on the inside.. But Wendel actually got the YouTube channel (and forum I think?)
That is why if you go to the Level1Tech YouTube channel and click the 'videos' link, you actually get brought to this URL:

 
So a lot of Wendel's history on YouTube he has gotten through this YouTube channel. So if you want to see his YouTube history, you actually don't go through the Level1 channel, but rather through this one:
https://www.youtube.com/user/razethew0rld/videos?view=0&sort=da&flow=grid
(I think.. If I remember that correctly).
 
TekSyndicate focused a lot on the same sort of stuff others tech YouTubers focused on in 2010-2014. Reviews of everything computers.
But they also did Linux stuff. Their community was very knowledgable about this stuff too. But even back then, Logan and Wendell had a similar dynamic as Linus and Anthony have now.
Linus/Logan did the brunt of the presentation, but when you needed all the factual info: you went to Anthony/Wendell.
 
Anyways, having said that - so kind of create some more YouTube validity for Wendell - he isn't a solely YouTube guy.
During the TekSyndicate days, Wendell had a traditional job as well. He is (was?) a consultant. 
From what I can find, Wendell has always been kind of secretive on what his job is (well now it probably is YouTube, but I mean back in the day), so it's hard to say for sure what is was..
 
To wrap it up. He was/is a consultant, knows a lot of stuff, seems eager to learn, to re-iterate; he knows a lot, he has been in the tech community for a LONG time and he just overall seems like a nice guy.
I think that is why he is the go-to guy for so many tech YouTubers.
 
P.S. shoutout to the times when Wendell was the guy behind the monitors  

The +2 part goes in first, with the little plastic notch being locked behind the 6 pin part (because the 6 pin part has the locking mechanism).

The +2 part goes in first, with the little plastic notch being locked behind the 6 pin part (because the 6 pin part has the locking mechanism).

The +2 part goes in first, with the little plastic notch being locked behind the 6 pin part (because the 6 pin part has the locking mechanism).

Usually there is some kind of latch that needs to be pulled up, or away. Do you have photo of the connector, that way it might be easier to judge what needs to be unlatched.
Looking at a video, there is probably a latch that needs to be flipped up to remove the ribbon, but with how many revisions of laptops there are it's impossible to say for sure without a photo.

iFixit has a Logitech G27 disassembly / repair guide.
That looks like the "...metal half-circle clip..." shown in Step #19, mentioned in orange.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Logitech+G27+Optical+Encoder+Replacement/42113
 
 

It was actually hundreds of people ("More than 700" as the report says), due to red/blue flashes in an episode. And not around the world, only in Japan, since the episode did not air outside Pokemon's home country.
https://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/EP038
http://edition.cnn.com/WORLD/9712/17/japan.cartoon/
Needless to say Pokemon has been much more careful with these types of effects. The main Pokemon of this episode - Porygon - and its later evolutions also thusfar have never had a main role in an episode since.

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The basics of a custom controller are really not that difficult, it's just a couple buttons (and perhaps analog sticks) that a microcontroller reads out, transforms into dinput/xinput and plugs into a PC/console/device to play a game. It's just about how complicated you want to make it.
Adafruit has some videos on controller making, which should cover some of the very high level theory and practice of making a controller. Once you understand the different components that go within a controller, you can make it more complicated.
 
What I've learned over the time of making some projects, is that it's important to write down a list of "must, should, could", where you outline what you project must have to be at least a minimum viable project, what it should have to be really cool and what it could have, if you seek a bigger challenge after accomplishing the first two lists of goals.
If you set out your project without a proper vision, it will often be dragged down by feature creep, where you endlessly tack on features until your project has become unrecognizable from your initial goals.
 
So don't set out to work for months or especially not years on a perfect project, make mistakes; and make them quickly. It's very cliche, but you learn a lot from mistakes, as they prepare you for what can go wrong. Don't set out to build a perfect controller, you will make many prototypes along the way.
Especially with controller shells, that is something large companies have been trying to refine for years. It's no coincidence that some controller projects are designed around existing shells. Such as being designed around the legendary GameCube controller, with project such as the Goomwave and PhobGCC (the latter of which is open-source, so be sure to take a look at its design and documentation).
 
While I don't have experience designing controllers, I do have quite bit of knowledge on them and have experience with designing PCB's for keyboards as well as 3D modeling some simple projects, so if you have any questions I might be able to help!

If you have a file that is larger than your printer supports, you can cut it up and print it out in pieces, stitching it back together later. Although do be careful around the limitations of printers, usually they can only print with a border of a certain size (like 2cm is default I think), unless you have a special unit that can print borderless.
In my opinion, if I design something that has to be printed out in real life, I find Inkscape easier to use than Gimp. Inkscape is vector based, which I find easier to work with than a raster based program and setting the PPI and such.

The basics of a custom controller are really not that difficult, it's just a couple buttons (and perhaps analog sticks) that a microcontroller reads out, transforms into dinput/xinput and plugs into a PC/console/device to play a game. It's just about how complicated you want to make it.
Adafruit has some videos on controller making, which should cover some of the very high level theory and practice of making a controller. Once you understand the different components that go within a controller, you can make it more complicated.
 
What I've learned over the time of making some projects, is that it's important to write down a list of "must, should, could", where you outline what you project must have to be at least a minimum viable project, what it should have to be really cool and what it could have, if you seek a bigger challenge after accomplishing the first two lists of goals.
If you set out your project without a proper vision, it will often be dragged down by feature creep, where you endlessly tack on features until your project has become unrecognizable from your initial goals.
 
So don't set out to work for months or especially not years on a perfect project, make mistakes; and make them quickly. It's very cliche, but you learn a lot from mistakes, as they prepare you for what can go wrong. Don't set out to build a perfect controller, you will make many prototypes along the way.
Especially with controller shells, that is something large companies have been trying to refine for years. It's no coincidence that some controller projects are designed around existing shells. Such as being designed around the legendary GameCube controller, with project such as the Goomwave and PhobGCC (the latter of which is open-source, so be sure to take a look at its design and documentation).
 
While I don't have experience designing controllers, I do have quite bit of knowledge on them and have experience with designing PCB's for keyboards as well as 3D modeling some simple projects, so if you have any questions I might be able to help!

-- Thread cleaned --
 
It is fine to disagree with others, but please remain respectful towards another:
 

-- Thread cleaned --
 
It is fine to disagree with others, but please remain respectful towards another:
 

Do you have a picture of the entire right side of the board?
I have done a repair on a Ducky keyboard with just about the same issue (broken off USB Type C port and ripped pads) and ended up repairing it with a small custom designed PCB going to some pads next to the caps lock key that had GND/D+/D-/VCC hookups:

For my past keyboard projects I've used JLCPCB and I have been very happy with their quality and swift service!
Their PCB's look great (I've chosen green, black and purple solder mask so far), are packaged well and pricing is very good. Their order tracking is very detailed, showing you what step of the process the PCB is in during production, which is interesting to see.
 
I don't have experience with their assembly service, nor their component supplier (LCSC) nor their EDA (EasyEDA), so can't comment on those.
In short, I've been happy with the service JLCPCB has provided and as I am somewhat active in some keyboard communities, I've seen almost nothing but positive comments.
You can upload a Gerber file and get a quote right away, but especially if you have a coupon code from a YouTube sponsorship, they can be very affordable.
A 65% keyboard PCB I ordered from them was under €30,-, including shipping (product and shipping price were about equal). Smaller PCB's can be a lot cheaper though.

For my past keyboard projects I've used JLCPCB and I have been very happy with their quality and swift service!
Their PCB's look great (I've chosen green, black and purple solder mask so far), are packaged well and pricing is very good. Their order tracking is very detailed, showing you what step of the process the PCB is in during production, which is interesting to see.
 
I don't have experience with their assembly service, nor their component supplier (LCSC) nor their EDA (EasyEDA), so can't comment on those.
In short, I've been happy with the service JLCPCB has provided and as I am somewhat active in some keyboard communities, I've seen almost nothing but positive comments.
You can upload a Gerber file and get a quote right away, but especially if you have a coupon code from a YouTube sponsorship, they can be very affordable.
A 65% keyboard PCB I ordered from them was under €30,-, including shipping (product and shipping price were about equal). Smaller PCB's can be a lot cheaper though.

For my past keyboard projects I've used JLCPCB and I have been very happy with their quality and swift service!
Their PCB's look great (I've chosen green, black and purple solder mask so far), are packaged well and pricing is very good. Their order tracking is very detailed, showing you what step of the process the PCB is in during production, which is interesting to see.
 
I don't have experience with their assembly service, nor their component supplier (LCSC) nor their EDA (EasyEDA), so can't comment on those.
In short, I've been happy with the service JLCPCB has provided and as I am somewhat active in some keyboard communities, I've seen almost nothing but positive comments.
You can upload a Gerber file and get a quote right away, but especially if you have a coupon code from a YouTube sponsorship, they can be very affordable.
A 65% keyboard PCB I ordered from them was under €30,-, including shipping (product and shipping price were about equal). Smaller PCB's can be a lot cheaper though.

It is not an alternative to something on this list, but I just wanted to mention OpenToonz (previously known as Toonz) as an open source animation program (like anime or cartoon like animation).
This program was previously known as Toonz, but when they went open source (some time ago now) they changed their name to OpenToonz.
 
OpenToonz/Toonz is made by Digital Video S.p.A. in Italy and is customized by Studio Ghibli (famous for their animes like Spirited Away and My Neighbor Totoro).
The program is also used by some other famous shows such as Steven Universe and Futuruma.
 
If you want to do something with animation (cartoon or anime) you should definitely check it out. It's is available for Windows and OSX.
https://opentoonz.github.io/e/
 
As I am not that into animation, I have not tried it myself so can't comment that much on it.

Ah! So this is a topic I can speak somewhat accurately to as a 12 year veteran of Reddit and a moderator myself. 
 
So Reddit is the core platform made up solely of subreddits. All content is submitted into individual subreddits. They are denoted with an /r/ in the URL. (reddit.com/r/sub_reddit_name)  Subreddits are dedicated to separate topics, some of the broad (/r/pics or /r/funny), or some of the specific (/r/LinusTechTips). Each have their own set of rules, determined by the moderators, of what is and isn't allowed. 
 
You are correct, that a new subreddit can be created by anyone. The person who creates the subreddit is, by nature, the first moderator on the subreddit. As additional moderators are brought on board, they can by given specific permission levels. The person who created the subreddit is known as the "top level" moderator, and cannot be removed by other moderators, although the top level moderator can remove other moderators at their decression. 
 
Anyone can request a subreddit, but this is only granted on specific grounds. Either, the subreddit is unmoderated (all the moderators left the subreddit or are inactive on reddit) or the subreddit is under-moderated (the moderators aren't doing their job). I'm not aware of Reddit removing a subreddit from an active moderator group that's in good standing and giving it to the official group the topic is dedicated to. 
 
However, there have been cases where Reddit Admins have placed a moderator of their choosing into a subreddit. There are some fairly noteworthy example of this happening to very popular subreddits (millions of subscribers) where the moderators weren't acting in the way the Admins wished. There is speculation that this is done with political biases and is highly controversial on Reddit. 
 
It is the job of the moderator to ensure the community abides by Reddit's site-wide content policy. Other than that, the subreddit moderators get to enforce rules of their choosing within the subreddit. 

They're hoping for a November release:
 

There are condensators (or capacitors) on this board, I see two on the first picture and twelve in the second picture. There are the SMD components that are partially sand colored (look up 'SMD ceramic capacitor' to get an idea of what they look like).
It's just not the very large capacitors you see on USB killers, these are likely not strong enough to kill a USB port (that's just an estimation). Although if you fear it might be a USB killer, you should also fear it has a virus or other bad things on it.
 
If I had to guess, the chip in picture 1 is a NAND chip and the other side is a controller of some kind, but that's just a guess.

There are condensators (or capacitors) on this board, I see two on the first picture and twelve in the second picture. There are the SMD components that are partially sand colored (look up 'SMD ceramic capacitor' to get an idea of what they look like).
It's just not the very large capacitors you see on USB killers, these are likely not strong enough to kill a USB port (that's just an estimation). Although if you fear it might be a USB killer, you should also fear it has a virus or other bad things on it.
 
If I had to guess, the chip in picture 1 is a NAND chip and the other side is a controller of some kind, but that's just a guess.