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minibois

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Everything posted by minibois

  1. Appears to be a Sharkoon SGS30
  2. The +2 part goes in first, with the little plastic notch being locked behind the 6 pin part (because the 6 pin part has the locking mechanism).
  3. minibois

    Huh, haven’t posted a status update in a while…

    They are about three years old now My favorite photo of them is probably this action shot, from when they were only a couple months old, play fighting with each other:
  4. Usually there is some kind of latch that needs to be pulled up, or away. Do you have photo of the connector, that way it might be easier to judge what needs to be unlatched. Looking at a video, there is probably a latch that needs to be flipped up to remove the ribbon, but with how many revisions of laptops there are it's impossible to say for sure without a photo.
  5. It was actually hundreds of people ("More than 700" as the report says), due to red/blue flashes in an episode. And not around the world, only in Japan, since the episode did not air outside Pokemon's home country. https://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/EP038 http://edition.cnn.com/WORLD/9712/17/japan.cartoon/ Needless to say Pokemon has been much more careful with these types of effects. The main Pokemon of this episode - Porygon - and its later evolutions also thusfar have never had a main role in an episode since.
  6. -- Threads merged -- Please don't repost threads with the same question/topic
  7. FP = Fujitsu Polymer (which that business has since been taken over by Nichicon as far as I can find). 19Cz = their series 271 = 270 uF (27 *101 or 27 + 1 zero added) 16 = 16v The alternative linked the thread above and some alternatives I saw on Mouser seemed appropriate, just be sure to physically measure too, so you know the new cap will fit. I haven't ever soldered on a motherboard before, I can imagine with the large ground planes it can be quite difficult, but I really can't comment on that.
  8. -- Thread locked -- Please don't repost threads:
  9. If you have a file that is larger than your printer supports, you can cut it up and print it out in pieces, stitching it back together later. Although do be careful around the limitations of printers, usually they can only print with a border of a certain size (like 2cm is default I think), unless you have a special unit that can print borderless. In my opinion, if I design something that has to be printed out in real life, I find Inkscape easier to use than Gimp. Inkscape is vector based, which I find easier to work with than a raster based program and setting the PPI and such.
  10. The basics of a custom controller are really not that difficult, it's just a couple buttons (and perhaps analog sticks) that a microcontroller reads out, transforms into dinput/xinput and plugs into a PC/console/device to play a game. It's just about how complicated you want to make it. Adafruit has some videos on controller making, which should cover some of the very high level theory and practice of making a controller. Once you understand the different components that go within a controller, you can make it more complicated. What I've learned over the time of making some projects, is that it's important to write down a list of "must, should, could", where you outline what you project must have to be at least a minimum viable project, what it should have to be really cool and what it could have, if you seek a bigger challenge after accomplishing the first two lists of goals. If you set out your project without a proper vision, it will often be dragged down by feature creep, where you endlessly tack on features until your project has become unrecognizable from your initial goals. So don't set out to work for months or especially not years on a perfect project, make mistakes; and make them quickly. It's very cliche, but you learn a lot from mistakes, as they prepare you for what can go wrong. Don't set out to build a perfect controller, you will make many prototypes along the way. Especially with controller shells, that is something large companies have been trying to refine for years. It's no coincidence that some controller projects are designed around existing shells. Such as being designed around the legendary GameCube controller, with project such as the Goomwave and PhobGCC (the latter of which is open-source, so be sure to take a look at its design and documentation). While I don't have experience designing controllers, I do have quite bit of knowledge on them and have experience with designing PCB's for keyboards as well as 3D modeling some simple projects, so if you have any questions I might be able to help!
  11. -- Thread cleaned -- It is fine to disagree with others, but please remain respectful towards another:
  12. USB 3.0 has been renamed twice, it's currently known as "USB 3.2 Gen 1", so it's possible the motherboard supports the connector the case has. To more easily confirm this, what motherboard and case are you looking to get?
  13. Do you have a picture of the entire right side of the board? I have done a repair on a Ducky keyboard with just about the same issue (broken off USB Type C port and ripped pads) and ended up repairing it with a small custom designed PCB going to some pads next to the caps lock key that had GND/D+/D-/VCC hookups:
  14. For my past keyboard projects I've used JLCPCB and I have been very happy with their quality and swift service! Their PCB's look great (I've chosen green, black and purple solder mask so far), are packaged well and pricing is very good. Their order tracking is very detailed, showing you what step of the process the PCB is in during production, which is interesting to see. I don't have experience with their assembly service, nor their component supplier (LCSC) nor their EDA (EasyEDA), so can't comment on those. In short, I've been happy with the service JLCPCB has provided and as I am somewhat active in some keyboard communities, I've seen almost nothing but positive comments. You can upload a Gerber file and get a quote right away, but especially if you have a coupon code from a YouTube sponsorship, they can be very affordable. A 65% keyboard PCB I ordered from them was under €30,-, including shipping (product and shipping price were about equal). Smaller PCB's can be a lot cheaper though.
  15. -- Threads merged -- Please don't repost a thread for the same issue, feel free to provide more information on the issue you have in this thread.
  16. There are condensators (or capacitors) on this board, I see two on the first picture and twelve in the second picture. There are the SMD components that are partially sand colored (look up 'SMD ceramic capacitor' to get an idea of what they look like). It's just not the very large capacitors you see on USB killers, these are likely not strong enough to kill a USB port (that's just an estimation). Although if you fear it might be a USB killer, you should also fear it has a virus or other bad things on it. If I had to guess, the chip in picture 1 is a NAND chip and the other side is a controller of some kind, but that's just a guess.
  17. Are you talking about the component right next to "PL5401"? That component is a capacitor. If you search for "ceramic smd capacitor" you will see hundred of examples, as capacitors are used a lot. Resistors are a different component, they are usually black and have a three digit value written on them (although not always). Capacitors come in different values (voltage and capacitance) and sizes, so it's key to get the right component to replace this with, assuming this is the component at fault. You'd need to look for a repair place that does board level repair. While it's not that difficult to solder one into place and it's not that difficult to remove this one, it is difficult to do it all cleanly and get the right component, if you are not too familiar with the component or soldering. Also, always unplug the battery before doing anything on the board, unless you know what you're doing.
  18. Is this is a new build? If so, check the back of the motherboard (the IO shield) and see if there are any pieces of metal sticking into any of the USB ports.
  19. minibois

    When life gives you a frayed cable on your head…

    Of course I am always kind to my electronics! Sometimes things just happen and materials break down over time. Better to restore than to throw away in my opinion *disclaimer: no DT990's were harmed during the modification shown above
  20. It all depends on the keycap set you're buying. Keycaps come in various sizes, 1u being most the keys (such as the letter and numbers) and then various larger sizes (like 2u for Backspace, 2.25u for Enter, etc.). Most keycap sets will also have varying row angles, by which I mean a keycap on the top row will have a different height than a keycap on the bottom row. You should always make sure your keycap set comes with the right size keycaps. Specifically, it appears the CIY Tester68 has a few keys that are of non-standard sizing: - Right shift is probably 1.75u (instead of 2.75u) - The three Alt/Fn/Crl buttons are 1u size (instead of the more default 1.25u) Otherwise this board has a typical ANSI layout, so make sure the keycap sets you want to get has those specific keycaps, in addition to the default ones. You can mix and match a bit (for example, this keyboard has no numpad, so you can take numpad keycaps and use them on this board), but you can run into the aforementioned issue of various row heights.
  21. minibois

    When life gives you a frayed cable on your head…

    It can be tucked in the earcups, but there is slack on the cable so the cable is not pulled when the headphones are adjusted. The slack is not a bug, but a feature I suppose! Purple is just the best! Well I wasn't aware of this character so I figured "let me just look up 'Ai anime character' online to find what franchise they are from", but nowadays 'Ai' in combination with 'anime' just gives me anime character generators. Makes sense, but as I read 'Ai' as a name, so I wasn't expecting it.
  22. minibois

    When life gives you a frayed cable on your head…

    Yep replaced the cable with two new wires, as the white wire you see in the above picture was also fraying, so I just didn't trust it. I had some wires in my 'scrap bin' which happened to be the same thickness, so they worked with no issues. I haven't done any repairs or whatever with audio products, so I did expect something to go wrong (i.e. static noise, or no connection because of the wires chosen), but it all works fine! The most difficult part of this repair was definitely getting the earpads back on, it's just a nightmare! The soldering was a piece of cake by comparison
  23. When life gives you a frayed cable on your headphones, you make a purple braided cable. Yeah, I think that is what the original saying is, probably. Works perfectly fine though!

    cable.jpeg.8e3890131283bea631a0bb582f06d207.jpeg

     

    headphones.thumb.jpeg.80c249c740a755cf8d57b6cad7fad99d.jpeg

    1.   Show previous replies  4 more
    2. SorryBella

      SorryBella

      1 minute ago, minibois said:

      Well I wasn't aware of this character so I figured "let me just look up 'Ai anime character' online to find what franchise they are from", but nowadays 'Ai' in combination with 'anime' just gives me anime character generators. Makes sense, but as I read 'Ai' as a name, so I wasn't expecting it. 

      Check my signature.

       

      Quote

      Hi, have you seen Hoshino Ai recently? Shes not missing, i just thought you should search her on the Internet.

       

    3. Entropy.

      Entropy.

      I know what you did to that poor dt990...
      (But in all seriousness, Nice job! it looks fantastic.)

    4. minibois

      minibois

      On 5/19/2023 at 4:07 AM, Entropy. said:

      I know what you did to that poor dt990..

      Of course I am always kind to my electronics! Sometimes things just happen and materials break down over time. Better to restore than to throw away in my opinion 🙂

       

      *disclaimer: no DT990's were harmed during the modification shown above

  24. Looks like the pads on the PCB are ripped off, but please do send a picture of the Micro USB port so that can be confirmed. If you want to connect a port you have to see where the traces go and connect to another part of that trace a bit further up. I dealt with something similar with a USB Type C port, which was both more difficult and also easier to deal with compared to what you have right here. It was more difficult, because USB Type C has more connection points, but also easier, because I had 4 (unlabeled) places I could attach wires to. It does sort of look like of the 5 connection points on the micro USB port, only two are actually used. To give a bit of background information, micro USB 2.0 has power (ground and +5v), data (D+ and D- for USB 2.0) and shield (the connector housing). There is also an additional unused pin. The ground pin looks to be connected to shield on the PCB, D+ and D- appear to be unused and +5V is connect to that capacitor and resistor. Is this only a charging port and not a port for data transfer? In that case, soldering a micro USB port and using a bodge wire between the +5V pin and the resistor/cap might work. Be sure to do a bit of research into USB though and if you have a multimeter you can do some continuity testing. This port can be salvaged, probably, with a bit of modding.
  25. It depends on what games you want to play, but you really can't go wrong with any of the (3)DS systems. The main difference between the (3)DS systems has to do with combability with games/accessories and the other difference has to do with size/control scheme/screen scaling. In short: A Nintendo DS or DS Lite can play anything from the DS and GBA (can't play GameBoy (Color)) A DSi (XL) can play anything DS* A (new) 3DS/(new) 2DS can play anything DS* and anything 3DS (there are a few games specifically made for the 'new 3DS', which only the 'new 3DS', 'new 3DS XL' and 'new 2DS XL' can play). This may be a bit long winded, but if you're interested in the difference between these systems and some known flaws to look out for when buying a second hand unit, be sure to read on (and ask any questions if anything is unclear). To elaborate, the DS (Lite) has two game cartridge slots, a DS and GBA slot. The DS slot is used for DS games (which both are not region locked by the way!) and the GBA slot is used for GBA games, some DS accessories and some GBA/DS game connectivity. There are a few DS games that have accessories that plug into the GBA slot, but that is not a lot of games that require it. I can only think of Band Hero (DS), but there are probably more. Furthermore the connectivity between DS and GBA games is quite rare, with the main example being some of the main series Pokemon games on the DS being able to connect to the main series GBA games to transfer Pokemon from the GBA to DS games. *So if you want to play games that require accesories in the GBA slot (very rare) or want to transfer Pokemon between the GBA and DS, you should get a DS (Lite). The DSi (XL) is like the DS Lite, but without the GBA slot. Usually not worth it vs. DS (Lite) or 3DS/2DS handhelds. The 3DS has six main revisions, which you can split in three different ways: - 'new' vs 'not new' - XL or not XL - 2D or 3D There are a few games that will only play on 'new 3DS' handhelds (from memory I recall a Xenoblade and Fire Emblem game and also Minecraft). XL vs. not XL is a matter of sizing/comfort and 2D/3D just depends on if you want to play the games in 3D (which I thought was neat, but not really needed. Furthermore, all these handhelds can play DS games (except for the ones that require GBA slot accessories) and 3DS games are not region free. As for pricing, it really differs between all units. DS Lite models are definitely the cheapest, it (I think?) being the best selling (3)DS handheld. It depends on where you're buying, but I've bought DS Lites for anything from €10,- to €25,-, depending on their condition (more on that later). DSi units are a lot less common, so usually pricier. The 3DS, 3DS XL and 2DS sold quite well, so can be had for anything between €30,- to €60,- depending on condition. All the 'new' units are newer and seemed to have sold less, so are more rare and expensive. I don't really have a good grasp on pricing of those. I bought my new 3DS XL for €90,- but I don't know if pricing changed over the years. Known issues to be aware of: If you're buying second hand you should always test it out before buying (or get something with at least a week or warranty). There are some known issues with these handhelds that you should check for: - Loose hinges: all the above mentioned consoles (except the 2DS) have hinges and I've seen people be quite rough with their devices. Check the hinges are in good shape. - Scratched screen: the touchscreen is one of the main features, so check it's not (too) scratched up - Malfunctioning buttons/circle pad: mainly the Dpad on the DS Lite, the circle pad on all 3DS/2DS and the home/select/start buttons on the 3DS (original) can be damaged after a lot of used, check they are fine - Broken (3)DS game slot: try the game slot with at least two different games to know if it reads fine and properly ejects the games - Scratched top screen: the original 3DS had a flaw that made the ridge around the bottom screen scratch the top screen. Check the top screen doesn't have two vertical scratches on its top screen
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