Jump to content

TheChromaBristlenose

Member
  • Posts

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation Activity

  1. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from Psittac in VR Headset options   
    I'd go with the HP Reverb G2 if possible. The image quality is the best you can get without splashing out a few more grand on top, and when it comes to DCS resolution really is critical. The Quest 2 isn't bad either and it's certainly a lot cheaper, but the image compression artifacts you get through Oculus Link is pretty terrible in that game.
     
    As for your rig, you should be fine but definitely don't expect to run everything on max settings. DCS is just terribly optimised for VR (and in general), and 10GB of VRAM at these resolutions will become an issue in multiplayer or crowded missions. Dropping terrain textures to low would be the first thing I'd do if you run into performance problems.
  2. Like
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from kitnoman in Does the Logitech g powerplay works on phones?   
    It does not. Powerplay is a proprietary standard, and doesn't work with Qi-based devices. 
  3. Like
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from MrP6k in Did I buy fake Huano blue shell white dots?   
    BSWD are honestly pretty good, you just have to bin them like I mentioned before. Easy way to do it would be to press the plungers against each other slowly, and sort through until you have pairs with similar actuation force. Some other good switch options would be TTC Gold Dustproof, Zippy DF3-P1 and Huano Blue Shell Pink Dot.
  4. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from MrP6k in Did I buy fake Huano blue shell white dots?   
    It's entirely normal. There are no fake Huanos out there (microswitches are a market where it makes no sense to imitate someone else's product), but manufacturing variance is super noticeable in microswitches since the differences are amplified by the mouse shell. Most big companies, like Logitech, will bin the switches by weight to reduce the difference on any given copy, but even then it can never be a perfect process. 
  5. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from flaxe in Mouse Sensitivity   
    Contrary to popular belief, CPI/DPI is not a sensitivity setting. It controls the resolution of the mouse sensor output, breaking distances into smaller and smaller increments (called "counts") the higher you set it. Sensitivity only becomes a factor once a program begins mapping these counts into movement (pixels in a 2D environment, and radians in 3D).
     
    In Windows, the "Cursor speed" option in Settings is the same as the slider in the Control Panel, just named differently. It controls how many pixels your counts map to on the screen - at the default setting (6/11), each count from the mouse sensor results in a single pixel of movement. Any higher or lower, this number changes which modifies your sensitivity.
     
    In 3D games, counts-to-pixels mapping doesn't apply since pixels don't exist in 3D space. The Windows settings are therefore ignored, and instead the counts are converted into radians (increments of a 360 degree turn). The in-game sensitivity option enlarges or shrinks the radian value depending on what you set it to, modifying your sensitivity.
  6. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from Frugivore8894 in Replacement of optical to mechanical (mouse)   
    There's a lot of misinformation floating around here. It is absolutely possible to replace optical switches with mechanical, though it requires a bit of extra work due to there being no traditional solder points on the Deathadder PCB. 
     
    Successfully replacing the switches with mechanical will not improve your CPS, however. The Deathadder's debouncing period is relatively long (58ms), which restricts you to ~17ms regardless of what switches you're running, or how fast you're actually clicking. 
  7. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from seon123 in Replacement of optical to mechanical (mouse)   
    There's a lot of misinformation floating around here. It is absolutely possible to replace optical switches with mechanical, though it requires a bit of extra work due to there being no traditional solder points on the Deathadder PCB. 
     
    Successfully replacing the switches with mechanical will not improve your CPS, however. The Deathadder's debouncing period is relatively long (58ms), which restricts you to ~17ms regardless of what switches you're running, or how fast you're actually clicking. 
  8. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from QSDaniel in Anyone know a mouse similar to the Deathadder Chroma   
    There've been three new Deathadder revisions since the Elite - DA v2 (wired), DA v2 Pro (wireless premium) and the DA X Hyperspeed (wireless budget). Personally I'd go with the X Hyperspeed since wireless is a good upgrade, and there's not much point spending extra for the Pro now that the Hyperspeed is a thing.
  9. Agree
    TheChromaBristlenose reacted to seon123 in Mice need to change, and here's why   
    Yes. Replace the failed switch. It's simple through hold soldering, so if you want, you can do it, almost  as easy as with a keyboard. Replacement mouse feet are cheap and readily available, and there are ways of removing mouse feet without damaging them too much.
     
    If a mouse fails within the warranty period, you would RMA it, just like with a keyboard, or any product.
    You drag a mouse around on your desk, while a keyboard just sits on the desk. The microswitches inside mice don't attach to the mouse shell, the part that you touch just rests on it. Many mice have the button as a part of the shell, so you can't just remove it. E.g. Razer Deathadder, Corsair M65 variants.
    Not sure what you mean by the grip of the buttons. If you want to change the texture, there is grip tape available. The tactile feel depends on the switch, which you can easily replace.
    See above, I've never really felt the need to clean the inside of my mouse, unlike my keyboards.
    Ambidextrous mice are a thing. If you're thinking of those silly replaceable sides that are attached with magnets, they add weight and cost. For the majority of people, who use their mouse right handed, it's often better to have a mouse that's fully optimised for right handed people, than making a compromise so you can use either hand on the mouse. The extreme end of this would be vertical mice like the MX Vertical. How would you propose modifying that to be ambidextrous, without adding too much weight?
    I'm not sure how a mouse would have to fail for the sensor and PCB to be perfectly fine, but for the mouse to be useless otherwise. Switches can be replaced easily, scroll wheel can be replaced, etc. Some popular mice seem to also have their shell available for sale by third parties.
    I'll assume you mean kits. For me personally, no, I would not like that. I would rather have a lighter mouse, optimised for right handed users, and a price that's not too high. If I want to change the texture of the buttons, I'll add grip tape, and if a switch fails outside of the warranty, I might replace the switch or the mouse. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
     
     
    Contrary to what some conspiracy nuts think, it's not about mUh PlAnNeD oBsElEsCeNcE, but rather just optimising for other things.
  10. Agree
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from PCGuy_5960 in Is the Logitech G102 a good mouse?   
    G102 and G203 are identical, just different naming schemes for different regions.
  11. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from RockSolid1106 in Is the Logitech G102 a good mouse?   
    G102 and G203 are identical, just different naming schemes for different regions.
  12. Like
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from JacobKS in Mouse Click Latency   
    Rting's latency measurements are incredibly flawed, and entirely useless for basically anything. With one PC, they have the mouse click trigger a speaker, and by recording on a second PC and visualizing the output with a spectrogram, they compare the time from when the mouse "clicks" to when the speaker plays. This doesn't sound like too bad of an idea to begin with, but the audio pipeline is notoriously prone to latency fluctuations which causes the margin of error to be larger than what they're trying to measure in the first place. Also, with two PCs they've effectively introduced twice the number of variables they have to control when it comes to latency.  That's not all either - on mice with optical switches (like the Viper lineup), the light shutter doesn't always close at the same instant the click is generated, which invalidates any audio-based comparison for them even if it was done properly.
     
    Their measurements suck to the point that their database isn't even internally consistent - if you look through it, the Naga Pro in Bluetooth mode (notoriously slow wireless protocol) is shown to be faster than basically all wired mice, the Burst Pro/Core (which have identical PCB and firmware where clicks are concerned) have wildly different measured latencies, several wireless mice are measured as significantly slower when plugged in, etc.
     
    Now to your question - the reason why Razer advertises such a low number is because they're only accounting for the isolated peripheral latency, which should at maximum be the polling interval (0.125ms in an 8000hz mouse) assuming that it's not being delayed by something else (usually debouncing). Razer doesn't advertise the end-to-end latency, because that number will vary enormously from system-to-system based on factors like monitor refresh rate, server tickrate, programs in the background, and a million other things. Their numbers they get on their test beds will not be the same as what most of their customers will experience.
     
    It is possible to get a picture of what the Viper 8KHz's latency looks like beyond what Razer officially advertises, though. Using the bump test against the Ikari Optical (generally the baseline for such things), the 8KHz registers at under -1.0ms with a bit of fluctuation due to the polling rates of both. Nvidia Reflex indicates the Ikari is 1.5ms to real time, so Viper 8KHz is at least within the 0.5ms range (from click to PC registering). Razer's internal, unofficial testing with a USB analyzer (more accurate than bump test) shows 0.08ms to real time from when the poll hits, meaning the most realistic figure is just over 0.1ms from when you click to when the PC receives the input. All in all, we can quite confidently say that it is the fastest mouse on the current market by a good margin, even when taking Razer's marketing numbers with a good load of salt.
  13. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from supermassiveblackhole in Viper Mini tape mod questions   
    Tape fix doesn't noticeably impact tracking - the idea is that you're reducing the amount of light output so it becomes too dim for the sensor to track above a certain height. Any opaque tape will work, the placement doesn't need to be super precise . You want to get it right below the apex of the little prism in the sensor lens. I've had a Viper Mini since release, haven't used it much but there hasn't been any issues with it.
  14. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from IPD in Optical sensors - please explain something   
    Any high-performing optical sensor will use an infrared LED, and it's been that way for over 15 years. Visible-light LEDs are now found exclusively on bargain bin sensors designed for office mice, and if you spend more than the absolute minimum on a gaming mouse, you're going to get IR.
  15. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from Doubs in Overclocking any mouse?   
    Download the drivers directly from Sweetlow's OCN thread, those links are still functional last I checked. However, it doesn't work well on recent versions of Windows or AMD-based systems, and most modern mice don't overclock beyond USB Full-Speed frequencies anyway.
     
    As a side note, if your mouse becomes unresponsive after a failed overclock, all you have to do is delete its driver from Device Manager. The automatically reinstalled driver will restore functionality to the device.
  16. Like
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from Violetbis56 in Do all g305s have hero sensors?   
    They all have the same Hero 12K sensor.
  17. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from Frugivore8894 in How do mice switches ware out?   
    Serious answer: there are multiple ways that it can happen.
     
    First and probably most common is that the copper contacts in the switch develop a layer of oxidation, and over time the wetting current requirements become too high for the mouse to provide. This isn't an issue in switches with gold-plated contacts, but those are rarely used by manufacturers to save costs.
     
    Second reason is plain bad switch design. There are two contacts in a mouse switch - the stationary and the moving contact. If they're not made of the same substance, then you'll start losing material on the softer contact which obviously breaks the switch.
     
    Also, if the contacts don't touch each other with even and consistent force, you'll also see material loss. Many switch manufacturers implement a "scrubbing" motion for the contacts to drag past each other, which is a cheap and easy way to clean off the oxidation (mentioned above) but will over time wreck the switch as well just by eroding the contacts.
     
    Finally (and this is the least common because the other two usually happen first), the leaf spring can wear out. After tens of millions of clicks, material fatigue will cause the spring to loosen up and produce inconsistent contacting pressure. This results in lighter actuation force, more contact bouncing (compare oscilloscope readings of a worn-out switch vs a new one, if you're interested), and eventually just outright mechanical failure.
     
    All these scenarios are assuming that the switch was implemented right in the first place. If you're like Logitech, who undervolt and undercurrent their switches to save power, then you'll obviously see quicker switch failure due to not meeting basic wetting current requirements. If you're like a lot of cheap Chinese manufacturers, who skimp out with shitty debouncing algorithms, then there could be ghost clicks/other artifacting even if the switch was actually operating within normal boundaries.
  18. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from HanZie82 in How do mice switches ware out?   
    Serious answer: there are multiple ways that it can happen.
     
    First and probably most common is that the copper contacts in the switch develop a layer of oxidation, and over time the wetting current requirements become too high for the mouse to provide. This isn't an issue in switches with gold-plated contacts, but those are rarely used by manufacturers to save costs.
     
    Second reason is plain bad switch design. There are two contacts in a mouse switch - the stationary and the moving contact. If they're not made of the same substance, then you'll start losing material on the softer contact which obviously breaks the switch.
     
    Also, if the contacts don't touch each other with even and consistent force, you'll also see material loss. Many switch manufacturers implement a "scrubbing" motion for the contacts to drag past each other, which is a cheap and easy way to clean off the oxidation (mentioned above) but will over time wreck the switch as well just by eroding the contacts.
     
    Finally (and this is the least common because the other two usually happen first), the leaf spring can wear out. After tens of millions of clicks, material fatigue will cause the spring to loosen up and produce inconsistent contacting pressure. This results in lighter actuation force, more contact bouncing (compare oscilloscope readings of a worn-out switch vs a new one, if you're interested), and eventually just outright mechanical failure.
     
    All these scenarios are assuming that the switch was implemented right in the first place. If you're like Logitech, who undervolt and undercurrent their switches to save power, then you'll obviously see quicker switch failure due to not meeting basic wetting current requirements. If you're like a lot of cheap Chinese manufacturers, who skimp out with shitty debouncing algorithms, then there could be ghost clicks/other artifacting even if the switch was actually operating within normal boundaries.
  19. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from OhioYJ in Logitech Double Click Fixes   
    D2FC-series switches are completely different internally to any of the Japanese Omrons, they're a cost-saving design essentially. Switching to D2F should solve your issue - ideally the low current variant (D2F-01F), but even the standard version is less sensitive to low current compared to D2FC due to better contact design (+ gold plating).
  20. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from Louie Friesen in Best wireless gaming mouse without Omron switches   
    OP - you notice another common denominator with all the mice you listed as having issues? They're all Logitech mice. Reason why double-clicks happen on these products is because Logitech obstinately refuses to use the proper voltage/current that Omron specifies for their switches, instead running them on microloads that eventually damage the contacts. This is why many other companies can use Omron switches and have no issues for several years, whereas Logitech is still plagued with complaints.
  21. Agree
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from dizmo in Best wireless gaming mouse without Omron switches   
    OP - you notice another common denominator with all the mice you listed as having issues? They're all Logitech mice. Reason why double-clicks happen on these products is because Logitech obstinately refuses to use the proper voltage/current that Omron specifies for their switches, instead running them on microloads that eventually damage the contacts. This is why many other companies can use Omron switches and have no issues for several years, whereas Logitech is still plagued with complaints.
  22. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from jckatz411 in So many battery choices   
    If you don't need rechargeability, lithium batteries are generally better than alkaline in high-draw applications. They cost more, but usually last quite a bit longer.
  23. Like
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from Zain_c in Question about “gaming” setup   
    It would affect performance, but if you have a powerful GPU it shouldn't make a massive difference although that depends on a few other factors too. As for the second monitor, no, it doesn't just blow the image up from the laptop's display resolution - anything on the secondary screen will be outputted natively at whatever resolution the monitor is set to.
  24. Agree
    TheChromaBristlenose reacted to gloop in razer red or purple switch   
    Why? Switches are completely personal preference. 
     
    Those numbers are bullshit. They are marketing terms. 
     
    This switch still can break (the bulb could pop, etc.)
     
    That could be a pro to some people, as I said before switches are personal preference. 
  25. Informative
    TheChromaBristlenose got a reaction from Oswin in G903 doubleclick   
    I don't think you've understood. The HERO sensor is more efficient, yes, but it has little to do with it. It's the voltage/current that the switches are being run at, which is the same across both the HERO and the non-HERO mice. This video is on the lengthy side but gives a lot more detail about the problem if you're interested. Anyway, it's not and was never a guaranteed thing on all copies (own most of the 50M/LiPo Logitech mice), but the design flaw is still there to the same degree.
×