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TheChromaBristlenose

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  1. Double-clicking is usually a result of environmental factors as well as the mouse's design (button structure, switch power and debouncing method). If you want to avoid it you can get mice with optical switches/encoders, but side buttons and middle click will still be mechanical.
  2. I'd go with the HP Reverb G2 if possible. The image quality is the best you can get without splashing out a few more grand on top, and when it comes to DCS resolution really is critical. The Quest 2 isn't bad either and it's certainly a lot cheaper, but the image compression artifacts you get through Oculus Link is pretty terrible in that game. As for your rig, you should be fine but definitely don't expect to run everything on max settings. DCS is just terribly optimised for VR (and in general), and 10GB of VRAM at these resolutions will become an issue in multiplayer or crowded missions. Dropping terrain textures to low would be the first thing I'd do if you run into performance problems.
  3. Have you cleaned up/reinstalled Windows? With polling-related issues more often than not it's a bloated OS install that's at fault.
  4. Speaking primarily about mice here, but some of the basic stuff can be adapted to keyboards too. Japanese (D2F- line) Omrons are the literal gold standard when it comes to microswitches. Unfortunately they're expensive and available only in relatively low volumes, so most mice use the Chinese (D2FC- line) switches. Those aren't the absolute worst, but they're designed to be economical and so feature a number of compromises: Cheap contact materials (copper and nickel) that are prone to oxidation, and need to be run at much higher power to accommodate their wetting current requirements. "Scrubbing" style contacts, designed to compensate for the use of said oxidizing materials. Paired with the small contact surface area this can lead to accelerated mechanical wear especially if the mouse's plungers were designed to hit the switch significantly off-axis. Lack of a proper NO contact, with D2FC instead relying purely on the conductive material of the NO pin. This decreases signal integrity due to increased contact bounce and irregular contact, exacerbated as the switch wears. Unimpeded spring overtravel, due to lack of the secondary spring that's in place on D2F and other more expensive switches. This can permanently deform the leafspring if regularly actuated with force or off-axis, and out of the factory results in higher tolerances. SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) design, which, while not inherently bad, means D2FC cannot be used with set-latch debouncing, a far superior method to the basic firmware debounce that's found on 99.99% of all mice. The list might give you the impression that D2FC are garbage switches that should never be used, but most of these compromises can be worked around in their implementation. Mechanical wear can be diminished with proper button design, contact oxidation can be accommodated with more current, and the symptoms of degrading signal integrity (double-clicking, usually) can be worked around with increased debounce time. It's when manufacturers fail at one or more of these, that you end up with problems. Taking Logitech as the example. They've got button design down pat, with elevated PCBs that allow plungers to depress at the right angle, proper tensioning that discourages gorilla pressing, and overtravel stops built into the shell. Mechanically they've done everything right, but failed at the other two. They insist on running their switches (especially in wireless mice) on extremely low power, and while they've since doubled it due to the plague of double-clicking issues, had debounce times far too low for longevity. An easy fix to all of this, of course, would be to just use better switches and a better (hardware-based) debouncing method. However, the vast majority of companies have demonstrated that they're unwilling to take the extra cost, so it's advisable for everyone to get good at soldering.
  5. Corepads or Tiger Arc 1. They're the best value, and having tried nearly all the popular aftermarket skates available, the difference between them and the more expensive options is 95% marketing and 5% actual performance. A case can be made for glass skates if you want something slower and more durable, but make sure you never use them on any sort of hard pad.
  6. Bit of a tangent here, but that video missed out on quite a few things due to inadequate testing, and I believe someone from Razer reached out to them afterwards about it too. Polling-related issues with USB HS devices can definitely be a thing when sharing a crowded controller, even if the actual data being transferred is within the theoretical maximum bandwidth simply due to the frequency of inputs being received. It's not subtle, either - mice in particular will immediately become unusable from the packet loss. The issue with the testing here is that when traffic is low across all USB controllers, it doesn't matter what port you use. There's no significant difference in latency or smoothness, and the video took this to mean the "gaming ports" are useless, which is demonstrably not the case if you have a lot of things plugged in. To be fair to LTT, though, they conducted their claims in accordance with ASRock's over-the-top marketing. You can achieve the same thing on most motherboards by managing your devices according to the motherboard block diagram. ASRock just made it easier for the user, and if they'd stopped there it would've been a nice feature, but instead they had to ruin it by making claims of "lower latency" and "patent pending". TLDR; "Magic USB ports" can be useful in certain scenarios, but LTT didn't test it properly due to ASRock making stupid marketing claims.
  7. They have the same connector and pinout, but the stress relief (that little rubber neck sticking out of the mouse) is a different shape so you'll have to cut it to fit. If you're just looking for a replacement cable I'd recommend buying an aftermarket paracord instead, they're an upgrade over stock and won't require modification.
  8. Try Onboard Memory Manager instead.
  9. Swarm is EOL and nearly a decade old - still functional but definitely clunky. The new software is called Neon, but it's still in Beta and only supports the very newest products (from the Kone Pro onwards).
  10. That's a standard JST 2.0 connector, you'll have no problem finding replacements. Most mouse cables for instance will work fine, just rearrange the order of the coloured wires (following this tutorial) and you're good to go.
  11. You can measure click/keypress latency by "bump testing" with a baseline device, using Bloody's KeyResponse PK software. Basically you're pressing two buttons at the exact same time, and the program will output the delta between the registration time in milliseconds. You won't get absolute latency numbers using this method and there's always a margin of error, but with a known baseline and multiple passes it's enough to tell you if the input lag is high or low on your device. Here's a spreadsheet of bump test results on mice, with the Steelseries Ikari Optical as baseline. Similarly, comparative testing is the easiest way to determine motion latency on a mouse's sensor. It's a bit trickier to do than click latency, but with the MouseComparator software from OCN, you can move two mice at the same time and plot the timing differences in the reported sensor counts. I'm assuming you'd already be happy knowing the click latency so I won't go into massive detail, but here's a set of instructions on how to use the program.
  12. Uninstall GHub, use Onboard Memory Manager instead. All settings changed there will automatically save to onboard memory, and will stay on the mouse regardless of whether the software is running.
  13. It's an optical encoder so the detent mechanism should be removable, though I'm not sure how differently it's implemented from the M305.
  14. It does not. Powerplay is a proprietary standard, and doesn't work with Qi-based devices.
  15. A few years ago I would've said the same, but Razer's quality has improved a ton since the Viper, whereas Logitech's has only gotten worse. The Deathadder in this case has optical switches which eliminates the possibility of double-clicking entirely, while Logitech obstinately sticks to cheap Omrons running out of spec.
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