Davidwr80

That's pretty much all you could do.
Better cooling will mean that your components will run at lower temperatures, but the same amount heat is still being kicked out into the room. Not much you can do about physics.

Take a look at SFX/SFX-L power supplys. 

I can speak from my experience, I have delidded 3 CPUs so far: 
1. Don't re-seal it if you don't have to. The space reduction underneath the heat spreader is what gives you the biggest heat decrease. 
2. You probably need more force than you think
3. While removing the heat spreader after using the Delid-Die-Mate, be extra careful to not rip off any small parts on the CPU. I destroyed a 600€ CPU because I wasn't careful in the last stage of the delid.
4. Finally, make sure to apply enough liquid metal to the CPU die as well as the heat spreader. Your temps will be awful if the liquid metal layers don't connect properly to each other. 
 
If all goes well, you will have a great overclocker at hand
 

That's a good one.
Tank you, I hope it goes well

I can speak from my experience, I have delidded 3 CPUs so far: 
1. Don't re-seal it if you don't have to. The space reduction underneath the heat spreader is what gives you the biggest heat decrease. 
2. You probably need more force than you think
3. While removing the heat spreader after using the Delid-Die-Mate, be extra careful to not rip off any small parts on the CPU. I destroyed a 600€ CPU because I wasn't careful in the last stage of the delid.
4. Finally, make sure to apply enough liquid metal to the CPU die as well as the heat spreader. Your temps will be awful if the liquid metal layers don't connect properly to each other. 
 
If all goes well, you will have a great overclocker at hand
 

As long as the temps are fine, and you don't mind the power usage/extra sound form the fans from a high overclock, then why not? Worst case scenario is that it won't be stable and you'll havr to drop it down maybe a couple hundred megahertz at most, but even then it should be minimal.

I'd reinstall your CPU with new thermal paste.  Seems like the simplest solution to your problem.

All depends on the luck of the draw and what the specific chip can overclock to.
You can get a general idea of what most people can easily OC their chip to but you might get unlucky and can't get it that high or you can get it higher on the same voltages.

Your GPU is barely breaking a sweat while your CPU is definitely outclassed, like a fat man in a 100 meter dash (just kidding ).
 
But seriously, I believe the stuttering you see is the effect of your game dropping frames so your CPU can keep up. There's really no other recourse but to upgrade if you want to play triple-A titles. To give you a better perspective on how your 3770 performs, I run a 7th generation Core i7 7700K where the CPU usage never goes beyond 75%. For Battlefield 1 it averages at around 67%.
 
Upgrading your motherboard and CPU seems like the logical step since it's already 4 generations behind. You already have most of the components for a fast gaming system, but all of that is being held back by your CPU.
 
 

Okay my apologizes for not being clear. what i mean is except some shutter. but if you have massive shuttering then its definitely a problem. how are the temps .. i sense a thermal throttling on the CPU side. it helps if you say if you have over clock and what sorta cooling you have.  
 
it really helps if you can monitor the temps with MSI afterburner and post the results. 

You can find the answer to your question with a Mining calculator like this: https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/eth?HashingPower=168&HashingUnit=MH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=1000&CostPerkWh=0.06

It does have that connector, I just looked it up. Also, if the fans at the front are meant as intake, then you have to turn them around. 

It does have that connector, I just looked it up. Also, if the fans at the front are meant as intake, then you have to turn them around. 

Normally if a board is dead, the lights will still turn on and it will try to do something, same when the CPU is dead, at least in my experience. If nothing happens at all, then its more likely that something is not plugged in correctly.

Normally if a board is dead, the lights will still turn on and it will try to do something, same when the CPU is dead, at least in my experience. If nothing happens at all, then its more likely that something is not plugged in correctly.

Upgrading from the 260 to something cheap like a 1050 ti/RX 570 would make a world of difference for your gaming experience. 
Also, you could try buying used last gen. cards like a 970/980; those cards would give you a bit more for your money (just be wary of scams on ebay).  That said, I'd definitely suggest upgrading your other components in the near future. 

You'll need to update the motherboard bios (with your i5-6400) for it to work with kabylake processors.

Yeah, but if you want to overclock anyways (even lightly) you can easily make up for that. 

"no bootable device found" pretty much tell you right there. The BIOS cannot find an operating system on any device currently connected.
 
Go into the BIOS and check that the drive is detected by the BIOS if not dead drive else the OS needs reinstalling.

1. The fluid in the loop normally doesn't get too hot. Your components would overheat and shut the system down before your fluid got hot enough to reach the tubing's limits. 
 
2. Don't need it. AIOs and custom loops have been running fine for years without that. 

Yeah, I guess...I just did not think that they would use components with a different hight since that is a problem for full cover water blocks..

As long as your temps are under 80°C there is nothing to worry about.
If it gets over 80°C, I would start to worry and look for solution.
 
And when you say near the range of 70°C, I assume your temps are under 70°C, which is perfectly fine.

Create a USB windows setup using "media creation tool" from microsoft.
Plug it in, reboot, enter the setup.
 
Follow the instruction, choose "perform a new/clean setup/advanced setup". Select all partitions of your SSD you will see and click "delete". You will remain with one un-partitioned space (or unallocated) of you SSD. Click on that one, click "create". It will automatically create all the necessary partitions for recovery, system, and so on. Just click next and you're done.

I would not be all too worried about that. Asus boards are the least "brickable" boards that I have encountered so far. Even if the bios gets corrupted somehow, you can still flash it manually most of the time and therefore fix the issue, even without a CPU installed. 

Please, give us actual information.
What are the specs?