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aaron.exe

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Everything posted by aaron.exe

  1. I recently was fortunate enough to upgrade my GTX 1080 for a founders edition RTX 3070, but the performance I've been getting from it is incredibly underwhelming. My current specs are: -RTX 3070 Founders Edition -i7-6700K overclocked to 4.5 Ghz -Asus Z170 Pro Gaming Motherboard -16GB of 2133Mhz DDR4 RAM -Enermax 850W Gold Powersupply -1TB WD Black SN750 SSD -Dell 1440p 144hz G-sync monitor My first thought was that my CPU was simply bottlenecking my 3070, and I'd just upgrade it when I have the chance, however I keep noticing that the CPU isn't being maxed out in any game that I play-- usually sitting around 40-50%, though sometimes higher. I checked to see if one of the cores was being maxed on on HWmonitor: none of them were. I removed the overclock and set it to stock to see if it made any difference, but I got the same FPS in every game I played. I'm sitting around only 120 FPS in Valorant and Minecraft (and less than 60 with shaders), I'm getting only around 30 fps with maxed settings in Battlefield V, and flucuating around 100 in Battlefield 2 and 70 in GTA V (all at 1440p). Meanwhile, my GPU will sit as low as 2% in some games. Is there something else that's preventing me from getting decent performance? Tl;dr: I'm getting low fps with low cpu and gpu usage, with no cores maxed out, and running at 1440p.
  2. If you're adamant about getting a 30 Series new and are willing to put up with the hassle of trying to find one I think a 3060 Ti should be plenty for high refresh rate 1080p gaming in those games. Just make sure you have a monitor that can support these frame rates and (this is very important) a good CPU-- as 1080p is significantly more CPU bound.
  3. I recently started overclocking my i7 6700K on my Asus Z170 Pro Gaming motherboard to eek as much performance out of it before the stock shortage ends, however I’ve run into a problem with the voltage. I’m trying to get a stable over clock of 4.7GHZ, however whenever I restart my computer it starts a crash loop. I had the voltage set to 1.345 so I figured I’d just set it a little higher 1.37 is what I had in mind to get it stable. Every time I try to adjust it manually however it just keeps going back to 1.345– I can’t adjust it up or down even slightly (.005 increments). I set the voltage to auto and I managed to get out of the crash loop but I’m concerned it’ll hurt my CPU doing this. Does anyone know if this is true or if I can find some way to increase the voltage slightly for a stable over clock? Cheers!
  4. I have the ability to get a WD SN750 for $117 and to get a 665p for $85. I am aware the SN750 is a better drive (TLC vs QLC etc) but is it really worth that much more for my use case of light gaming? Cheers!
  5. I’m looking into getting a Cooler Master Master Liquid ML24L AIO (linked below), but I would like to use some Corsair LL120s I have lying around on it for aesthetic reasons, and have the fans on the cooler itself be used as intake fans on the bottom of my case? Assuming that this doesn’t significantly increase my CPU temps is this possible? Cheers! https://www.newegg.com/cooler-master-liquid-cooling-system-masterliquid-ml240l-rgb-v2/p/N82E16835103297?&quicklink=true
  6. I know the wattage estimator places a 3080 and i9 10850K build at 750W, but given how power hungry they are (especially the i9), would an 850W be more appropriate if they were both overclocked, or would it make no difference? Thanks!
  7. To me the peak design for reference cards was the 10 series/Pascal. They took the beautiful design of the 700/900 series cards and made it look even cooler with all of the sharp lines and angles. I didn't hate the 20 series, it was still a distinctly premium design, I just thought it wasn't quite as cool as the 10 series. This however, oh boy... It's not nearly as bad as the GPUs we had in the prior to 2013 or so (seriously who the hell though slapping a cheap sticker on plastic looked nice) but it is closer to that then the designs we've had as of late. If this is the final design, I'm hoping there will be at least some changes that make it more premium looking because as it stands right now this just looks cheap.
  8. So I finally ordered a new gaming mouse a couple of days ago after not having replaced my old one in years. I got a Razer DeathAdder Elite for $35 and I like it a lot but sure enough today there was a sale on Corsair M55s for $20. Normally I wouldn’t care as I think the Razer is the better mouse however at half the price after tax, the facts that I already have a Corsair keyboard (K95 RGB Platinum) and RGB fans, and that the mouse comes with buttons on either side I’m thinking that I might have made a mistake. Do you think it’s worth it to go through the hassle of returning the Razer. Or is the mouse much better and worth the extra cost?
  9. I found an old PC lying around in my parents house that has an AMD FX 8120 in it. It’s from around 2012 so obviously it’s not going to be incredible performance but does anyone know how good of a chip this was new (2012 was long before I got into PC gaming). I’m thinking of throwing in an old GTX 960 I have lying around into the machine and giving it to a friend for some very mild gaming. Thoughts?
  10. I know it sucks to hear this but if you can I’d wait like a few more months (probably August or September) for the RTX 30 series. The thing is that the RTX 20 series has been pretty bad price to performance since the beginning, and the discount you’d be getting a 2060, right before the 30 series launches is only $50 for its launch MSRP. I can’t guarantee that the 30 series will bring the incredible price/performance that Pascal and Maxwell brought but it will give you a lot more for your many that a 2060 will, I’m certain. If you’re fine with the performance of 2060/5600xt and don’t need more, they’ll likely be heavily discounted to, but if you can’t wait I’d probably go with the Nvidia card. Hope this helps
  11. If I were you I would HIGHLY consider going with a 1650 Super instead. There’s an astronomical difference in performance between the two, by which I mean on the 1650 Super you’ll actually be able to play at 1080p 60FPS comfortably. I’d recommend you at least check these benchmarks first before buying.
  12. Forgive my complete and total ignorance on this but can you explain this further? I have no experience when it comes to cooling other than installing a simple air cooler. Thanks for the response!
  13. I received a set of 3 Corsair LL120 black fans and I REALLY like how these things look so I’m planning to incorporate them into a build I’m working on. I’m highly considering a AIO water cooler for my CPU and ideally I’d like the fans for it to also be LL120s. The only AIO that is sold with them is the Corsair H100i RGB Platinum SE but it white and comes with white LL120s which I think will look strange with the black LL120s I already have. Is there a good AIO cooler that doesn’t already have some fans installed so I could just get another set of LL120 Blacks and install them onto it?
  14. I need a Ram upgrade and I’m considering getting Trident Z RGB. There are some deals on Trident Z Neo which pretty much has the same specs but it is branded as “for AMD.” As far as I can tell, it’s just RAM, so does this really mean anything or is it just marketing for when Ryzen chips needed high speed and low CL ram? Basically, will it work perfectly fine on my current motherboard and with my i7 6700K?
  15. Now that the 10700K is out do you all think the i9 9900K will drop much in price? Seeing as the 10700K beats out the 9900k in performance for about a $100 less, will the 9900k get some deals that put it below the $410 or so price of the 10700K, or is Intel’s “value” going to keep the 9900k artificially high on the new and used market?
  16. Normally every July there are some pretty good deals for Prime Day on basic components, but because of Coronavirus people are saying Prime Day is going to come a lot later this year think: August/September. I’m willing to wait a month to get a deal on an SSD, cooler, ect but not another three months. Do you guys think that other online retailers like Newegg will still have these deals come July, or will they also be pushed off?
  17. Yep, that’s the only reason I’d consider it. It holds up well enough for gaming but when I could get a 12 processor and motherboard for like a $300 premium I really started thinking about it.
  18. Potentially. A lot of it depends on your own needs. If you’re just using Google Docs to type papers and creating an occasional slideshow, absolutely. If you wanted to start editing videos you MIGHT be able to do this on a base Air. Also, I’d consider how long you want to use the machine. MacBooks last a long time, and if you’re a junior in High School this could be the laptop you use until the end of college. Judge your needs not just for now but for then too. How well will a base i3 and 256GB if storage hold up in say, 2025. Again, if you can wait like two months you’ll end up with a better laptop for years. Just something to think about.
  19. Personally the thing I’d consider between the two of these is the keyboard. If I’m not mistaken the 2020 Air has a Magic Keyboard and the 2019 Pro has Butterfly switches. As a 2018 MacBook Pro owner let me tell you: these things WILL break. My space bar already started double tapping 3 months into owning it. Mind you, Apple will replace these for free as many times as you need, and the repair process only took 3 days. If you absolutely can’t wait, I think I’d recommend the Air just because of this. The performance hit will suck, but unless you really need that power it should be fine. If you can wait I’d buy one around August when there will be huge deals on the new MacBook Pros. If you get one of these you’ll get MUCH better performance than even the 2019, a good keyboard, more storage, a better screen, ect. Totally worth it over the Air if you can either take the cost or wait a little while. Hope this helps
  20. About a year ago I picked up an i7 6700K and an ASUS Pro Gaming Z170 motherboard off a friend for $110. Seeing how expensive these components sell for used ($250-$300) is it worth selling them and upgrading to something like a Ryzen 9 3900x? I’m considering doing a build with 1080 Tis in SLI and I don’t want the processor to bottleneck them.
  21. I'm considering doing a build with two GTX 1080 Tis in SLI and an i7 6700K overclocked. Considering how high PSU prices are right now will an 850W one be enough or should I try to find a 1000W PSU despite this price? Thoughts?
  22. I recently installed a new graphics card into my PC and I’ve been having some audio problems with it since. The audio works perfectly but after leaving the computer for a while and having it fall asleep it suddenly drops to zero. To be clear, it still displays in settings that everything is the same but no actual sound comes out of the speaker until I reboot the computer. I have my speakers connected to my monitor through a 3.5mm and the audio is listed as NVIDIA High Definition Audio (I’ve included an image of what it looks like below).
  23. Recently I purchased a GTX 980 Ti VR edition with a one year warranty for $80 as a part of EVGA's midweek madness sale for a cheap college build I'm doing. I feel like a got a good deal and I'm happy with the purchase, but one thing is bothering me. The base clock for the VR Edition 980 Ti is 1000 MHz and the boost clock is 1076 MHz, same as a reference GTX 980 Ti. The sale also had an EVGA SC Gaming GTX 980 Ti with a base clock of 1102 MHz base and 1190 MHz boost. Both of these use the reference design by Nvidia and the only difference with the VR edition is that it has a port in the front of the card as well. My question is did I just leave performance on the table for a feature I won't use, or will the two cards be able to overclock just as well because they use the same design, albeit one that's not ideal for overclocking anyway?
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