Linus No Beard

He looks so different, even compared to the old vids where he did not have one. He looks young and old at the same time.

From that thread I think I found the one, it is the Strix X670E-E Gaming. It is rather pricey, but it is $200 cheaper then the best option of the MEG X670E ACE. Unlike the ACE, the spacing is 3 3 instead of 4 3, but at 2.5 for the GPUs they should still be able to get some air and fit, and worse case if temps are bad I have always wanted to have a reason to water cool.

@Dedayog Sadly they are 1x electrical.

I will need to check for physical pins and see if a user manual is online.

More getting work done and maybe some local AI stuff. Also, you can always use the HyperV workaround where you paravirtulize under HyperV then since anti cheat cant look over HyperV and because many normal Windows users also have HyperV for WSL or the like they cant really ban you for having HyperV on. Also MS uses HyperV on the Xbox, so the games companies trust it. Paravirtulizing is where you make a KVM under Linux then enable HyperV in the turn Windows features on or off, then Windows runs itself in its own HyperV VM under the Linux KVM.

Use it in Windows VM when doing GPU passthrough because single GPU passthrough is a PITA. Also, because I already own it.

I use Linux as my daily driver, but I still need Windows from time to time. So, I was planing on getting an RX 7800 XT for Linux (since I like to do native gaming if possible) then I wanted to use my existing 2080ti for Windows since Nvidia is better on Windows. The 2080 I have is like a 2.5 slot design, and the RX 7800 XT probably wont be much smaller, so it would need to have at least 3 slot spacing. My case has 7 slots and the bottom is kinda restrictive, so best bet would be a 16X really close to the CPU then another 16X 3 slots down. I would put the RX 7700 XT in the top slot and bifurcate the top and bottom for the 2080ti. The board would also need good virtualization support and smart IOMMU groups. I dont really care about the cost since this is a long term thing anyways, and I am good with any of the chipsets. I prefer black for the board and dont really care about fluff like RGB.

I was actually thinking about this: https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v1-qmk-via-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40026442563673 From what I see it will let me choose the switches and key caps with a barebones and it uses USB-C and it has VIA which will work on Windows Mac and Linux and it has that sweet sweet RGB.

Regardless I dont want to change my current headset. I guess I could just get a DAC and a desk USB hub, I just like the convenience of it being in my board though. EDIT: If I do drop the pass through stuff, what options do you recommend on the custom kit side with everything else?

No, I dont want "Battery Low" in the middle of working or gaming lol. Also I really like my current 3.5 mm headset lol.

I need advice on what exists with these requirements. I am looking for a 75% kit, or maybe just the PCB, that has the following: RGB backlighting, ANSI layout, USB and 3.5 mm pass through (This is a MUST HAVE since my current Razer keyboard has it and it is a godsend IMO, I dont have a on desk DAC or on desk USB hub so I love it being in the board), hot swap (I can solder but I dont like it), and media keys (or the firmware supports using F keys as media keys). If it is a kit I would like the case to be something high quality and I would prefer USB-C for connectivity. Does something like this exist? For budget I dont really know what a good one is and I am fine spending what it takes to get a good board/kit. Really the main thing I cant seam to find for the life of me is the pass throughs, if you know of one please let me know.

I would be fine with Linux, if it supported HDR. It has good text for OLED, but Linus cant seam to make HRD work on his kernel. Maybe there is some registry hack or system default font change I can use that fixes the problem. I will have the icons and taskbar set to hide with an animated background and automatic dimming/turnoff. Burn in wont be the problem, it will be preventing dead pixels along the edge as many reports of OLED say that pixels like to drop like fly's around the edge over time. ESPECIALLY if you do a manual burn in fix too often.

I may just say F*CK it to the budget, save, and get the LG 27" Ultragear OLED and hope Windoes fixes the ClearType problems with OLED https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRBW8KRK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Dealbreaker for me, I like my colors to be accurate and to be able to look at it from an angle sometimes

567 dimming zones with QD does not break the bank, this might just be the one. Will look at reviews and if it is the one I will mark. Does it use IPS or VA?